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Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern

Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
2.2KMade This
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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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About This Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern

Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Dotty makes an absolutely gorgeous handmade gift — she comes with her own little crocheted bone and food bowl, which makes the whole set feel like a tiny, complete story you crocheted yourself.

Why You'll Love This Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern

I fell completely in love with Dotty the moment I attached that double-bubble snout and saw her face start to take shape — there's genuinely nothing like it. The snout construction is unlike anything I'd tried before, building two semicircles from a flat base and then joining everything into rounds, and when it worked I actually did a little dance. The nose goes on at an angle with the tail yarn looped around the snout divide to create that perfect pinched look, and the whisker knots are such a small touch that adds SO much. I also really appreciated that the toes are made by threading a long yarn strand through the paw rather than crocheting separate pieces — clever, satisfying, and fast. Every time I make this one I end up just holding her for a minute before I start the assembly. She's that cute.

Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I have a soft spot for amigurumi dogs, but Dotty is genuinely in a category of her own. The first time I tried this pattern I sat down thinking it would take a weekend afternoon — three days later I was still at it, completely hooked, and not even a little bit sorry about it.

The snout is the piece that surprised me most. You crochet a flat oval first, which feels totally normal, and then you re-join yarn at a specific stitch and start building these two semicircular bulges outward. It sounds weird on paper. The first time I read the instruction I re-read it three times. But when those two bubble shapes start appearing and you realize they're the rounded cheek-mounds of her face? One of the best moments I've ever had mid-project. That little row-to-round transition is genuinely clever construction.

The face assembly is where patience pays off. Lay everything out before you start sewing — the black backing dot, the small eye, the large eye, both pupils — and look at the reference photo. Dotty's face has this intentional asymmetry (one bigger eye, one smaller) and if you place them right, she gets this look of wide-eyed, goofy curiosity that is honestly hard to describe without showing someone. Place them wrong and she looks startled. Take your time.

One tip I'd share: leave your nose yarn tail extra long — like, embarrassingly long — before you close round 10. You need that tail to wrap around the snout divide AND to knot the whisker-stubbles on both sides. Running short there is a real heartbreak.

For color ideas: I've been dreaming about making a brown-and-white version for a Beagle feel, or going full fantasy with pale lavender spots. The bone and food bowl are such a cute bonus — make the bowl in a color that matches the dog parent's kitchen and you've got the most thoughtful gift imaginable.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When building the snout's semicircle sections starting at stitch 7, it's easy to lose track of which side you're working on — mark stitch 7 on both sides with contrasting yarn before you begin so you don't accidentally start the second semicircle in the wrong position.✗ The snout bottom piece needs only a light amount of stuffing pushed toward the outer edges, with the center left flat — overstuffing it will cause the whole bottom to bulge outward and it won't lie correctly against the head when sewn.✗ When sewing the nose onto the center of the snout, one corner must point downward — attaching it flat or at the wrong angle will ruin Dotty's expression entirely, so pin it in position and check from the front before you sew a single stitch.✗ The black eye-backing dot sits to the left above the snout, with the small eye layered on top of it and the pupil at the bottom of that eye — placing the larger eye on the left or centering both eyes will make Dotty look completely different from the intended quirky, off-center face.✗ For the paw legs, the hdc decrease rounds (rounds 9–11) create the ankle shaping — working these in regular sc instead of hdc will result in a straight tube with no natural ankle definition, so double-check your stitch type before continuing.✗ When working the bone, the two starting knob sections need to be placed side by side and joined with 30 stitches total before continuing — if your join count is off even by a couple, the center shaft of the bone will twist or pucker, so count before you proceed.✗ Attaching the ears about 8 rounds from the head's center with the peak pointing downward sounds simple, but the folded corner detail is what makes them look floppy rather than stiff — skip the 2–3 fixing stitches on the fold and the ears will stick straight out instead of drooping naturally.

Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern

Meet Dotty — a chubby, spotty little Dalmatian who sits up with the most irresistible puppy eyes you've ever seen on a crocheted dog. This pattern walks you through every single piece, from her expressive double-bubble snout to the tiny black paw dots that make her look so real. You'll love how each section comes together to create something that genuinely looks like it belongs on a shelf in a children's book illustrator's studio. Whether you're making Dotty as a gift or keeping her for yourself (no judgment there), this is one of those projects where you'll find yourself sneaking in an extra round just to see how she's coming along. The included bone and little food bowl make her a complete set — a full little world you made with your own hands.

Advanced 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Dotty the Dalmatian Dog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 200g of fine weight (weight 2) yarn in white — this is the main color used for the body, head, snout, ears, legs, tail, and several accent pieces
  • 02
    Approximately 50g of fine weight black yarn for the nose, eye backing dot, pupils, paw dots, and body spots
  • 03
    Small amounts of red yarn for the collar
  • 04
    Small amounts of yellow yarn for the pendant
  • 05
    Small amounts of dark purple yarn for the tongue
  • 06
    Small amounts of natural off-white yarn for the eyes
  • 07
    Small amounts of nude or natural white yarn for the bone prop
  • 08
    A small amount of super bulky weight yarn (weight 6) in blue for the little food bowl — used doubled

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 1.5mm (between US B and C) for the main dog and all small pieces
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 5mm (US G/8) for the blue food bowl, used with doubled yarn
  • 03
    Darning needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for the body, head, legs, tail, nose, and bone

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Body & Head (worked in one piece, white, crocheted in rounds) :

Info :

The body and head are worked together as one continuous piece in white. Begin at the base of the body and work upward through the body, then continue into the head without breaking yarn. Stuff the body before beginning the head section.

Round 1 :

Start with mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in each st around, 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 6 :

* 4 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 7 :

* 5 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 8 :

* 6 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (48)

Round 9 :

* 7 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 10 :

* 8 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (60)

Round 11 :

* 9 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 12 :

* 10 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 13 :

* 11 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (78)

Round 14 :

78 sc. (78)

Round 15 :

* 12 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (84)

Round 16 :

84 sc. (84)

Round 17 :

84 sc. (84)

Round 18 :

* 13 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (90)

Round 19 :

90 sc. Repeat this round a total of 11 times (rounds 19 through 29 inclusive are all 90 sc). (90)

Round 20 :

* 28 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (87)

Round 21 :

* 27 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (84)

Round 22 :

* 26 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (81)

Round 23 :

* 25 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (78)

Round 24 :

* 24 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (75)

Round 25 :

* 23 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (72)

Round 26 :

* 22 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (69)

Round 27 :

* 21 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (66)

Round 28 :

* 20 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (63)

Round 29 :

* 19 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (60)

Round 30 :

* 18 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (57)

Round 31 :

* 17 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (54)

Round 32 :

* 16 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (51)

Round 33 :

* 15 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (48)

Round 34 :

* 14 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (45)

Round 35 :

* 13 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (42)

Round 36 :

* 12 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (39)

Round 37 :

* 11 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (36)

Round 38 :

* 10 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (33)

Round 39 :

* 9 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (30)

Round 40 :

* 8 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (27)

Round 41 :

* 7 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times — this is the narrowest point between body and head, stuff the body firmly before continuing. (24)

Info :

Head begins here. Continue working upward from round 41 without breaking yarn.

Round 42 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 43 :

* 4 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 44 :

* 5 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 45 :

* 6 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (48)

Round 46 :

* 7 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 47 :

* 8 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (60)

Round 48 :

60 sc. (60)

Round 49 :

* 9 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 50 :

* 10 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 51 :

72 sc. Repeat this round a total of 9 times (rounds 51 through 59 inclusive are all 72 sc). (72)

Round 52 :

* 22 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (69)

Round 53 :

* 21 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (66)

Round 54 :

* 20 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (63)

Round 55 :

* 19 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (60)

Round 56 :

* 18 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (57)

Round 57 :

* 17 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (54)

Round 58 :

* 16 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (51)

Round 59 :

* 15 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (48)

Round 60 :

* 14 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (45)

Round 61 :

* 13 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (42)

Round 62 :

* 12 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (39)

Round 63 :

* 11 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (36)

Round 64 :

* 10 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (33)

Round 65 :

* 9 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (30)

Round 66 :

* 8 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (27)

Round 67 :

* 7 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (24)

Round 68 :

* 2 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — add remaining stuffing to the head now. (18)

Round 69 :

* 1 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 70 :

* 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — close and fasten off. (6)

— 2. Snout Upper Part (white, begin in rows then continue in rounds) :

Info :

The snout is built in two phases. First, crochet a flat oval base in rows. Then, two semicircular bulges are added by re-joining yarn at stitch 7 on each side and building outward. Finally, join everything into rounds to complete and shape the snout.

Row 1 :

Ch 12. (12 ch)

Row 2 :

12 sc across. (12)

Row 3 :

1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc. (14)

Row 4 :

1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc. (16)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc. (18)

Row 6 :

1 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc. (20)

Row 7 :

1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc. (22)

Row 8 :

22 sc. Repeat this row a total of 4 times. (22)

Info :

Now begin the first semicircle. Re-join yarn at stitch 7 counting from one side of the flat oval base. Work 3 sc into stitch 7, then 1 dc into the next stitch and turn. This forms the start of the first rounded bulge on the snout. Continue the following rows to build this semicircle, ending each with a sl st to close the curve.

Snout Row 10 :

3 sc into stitch 7, 1 dc into the following stitch, turn.

Snout Row 11 :

* 1 inc *, 3 times, dc. (6)

Snout Row 12 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, 3 times, sl st. (9)

Snout Row 13 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, 3 times, sl st. (12)

Snout Row 14 :

12 sc, sl st. (12)

Snout Row 15 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, 3 times, sl st. (15)

Snout Row 16 :

15 sc, sl st. (15)

Snout Row 17 :

* 4 sc, 1 inc *, 3 times, sl st. (18)

Snout Row 18 :

18 sc, sl st. (18)

Snout Row 19 :

* 5 sc, 1 inc *, 3 times, sl st. (21)

Info :

Re-join yarn at stitch 7 on the opposite side of the base oval and repeat rows 10–19 exactly to create the second matching semicircle on the other side of the snout.

Info :

Once both semicircles are complete, re-join yarn on the right side just after the second semicircle and begin working in continuous rounds around the entire snout. Work 36 sc around the upper flat portion and 42 sc around both semicircles for a total of 78 stitches.

Round 21 :

Work 36 sc across the upper section and 42 sc around the two bulge sections, joining into one continuous round. (78)

Round 22 :

78 sc. Repeat this round a total of 3 times. (78)

Round 23 :

36 sc, then * 3 sc, 1 dec * 4 times, 2 sc, then * 3 sc, 1 dec * 4 times. (70)

Round 24 :

36 sc, then * 2 sc, 1 dec * 4 times, 2 sc, then * 2 sc, 1 dec * 4 times. (62)

Round 25 :

* 4 sc, 1 dec * 6 times, then * 1 dec * 6 times, 2 sc, then * 1 dec * 6 times. (44)

Info :

Stuff the snout lightly, then sew it onto the head approximately 8 rounds up from the bottom of the head (the 'heels' or base of the head).

— 3. Eye Backing Dot (black, crocheted in rounds — make 1) :

Round 1 :

mc 8. (8)

Round 2 :

* 1 sc inc, 1 hdc inc *, repeat 4 times. (16)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 sc inc, 1 hdc, 1 hdc inc *, repeat 4 times. (24)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 8 times. (32)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 8 times. (40)

Info :

Sew this black dot to the left side of the head, just above the snout. The small left eye will be layered on top of it, and its pupil goes on the bottom of that eye. The large right eye sits directly beside it with its own pupil placed at the bottom.

— 4. Small Left Eye (natural off-white, crocheted in rounds — make 1) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 sc inc *, 4 times, then * 1 hdc inc *, 2 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 sc inc *, 4 times, then * 1 hdc, 1 hdc inc *, 2 times. (18)

— 5. Large Right Eye (natural off-white, crocheted in rounds — make 1) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 sc inc *, 4 times, then * 1 hdc inc *, 2 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 sc inc *, 4 times, then * 1 hdc, 1 hdc inc *, 2 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 sc inc *, 4 times, then * 2 hdc, 1 hdc inc *, 2 times. (24)

— 6. Pupils (black, crocheted in rounds — make 2) :

Round 1 :

mc 4. (4)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 4 times. (8)

Info :

Make two pupils. Sew one pupil to the bottom of the small left eye, and the other to the bottom of the large right eye.

— 7. Nose (black, crocheted in rounds) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 2 sc, 2 inc *, repeat 3 times. (18)

Round 4 :

3 sc, 2 inc, * 4 sc, 2 inc *, 2 times, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5 :

4 sc, 2 inc, * 6 sc, 2 inc *, 2 times, 2 sc. (30)

Round 6 :

30 sc. (30)

Round 7 :

5 sc, 2 dec, * 6 sc, 2 dec *, 2 times, 1 sc. (24)

Round 8 :

* 2 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 9 :

* 1 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — stuff now. (12)

Round 10 :

* 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — close and leave a long yarn tail. (6)

Info :

Position the nose at the center of the snout with one corner pointing downward. Use the long yarn tail to stitch around the snout twice at the point where the two semicircles meet to define that division. Then use the remaining tail to knot whisker-stubbles onto the snout — three knots per side.

— 8. Snout Bottom Part (white, crocheted in rounds) :

Round 1 :

mc 5. (5)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (10)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (15)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (20)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (25)

Round 6 :

25 sc. Repeat this round a total of 7 times. (25)

Info :

Add only a small amount of stuffing, pushing it toward the outer edges so the center stays flat. Then sew around the edge about 1 cm (0.4 inches) in from the edge to hold the stuffing in place. Attach this piece to the underside of the upper snout section, fixing the left and right edges only about 1.5 cm (0.6 inches) — the rest should remain free and open.

— 9. Tongue (dark purple, crocheted in rows, turn with a ch) :

Row 1 :

Ch 4. (4 ch)

Row 2 :

3 sc, then 4 sc into the last ch stitch, continue crocheting along the backside of the chain, 3 sc, turn. (10)

Row 3 :

4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc. (12)

Row 4 :

5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc. (14)

Info :

Sew the tongue onto the underside of the snout bottom piece. Be careful that the purple yarn tail doesn't show through the white fabric on the outside of this piece.

— 10. Ears (white, crocheted in rounds — make 2) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

3 inc, 3 sc. (9)

Round 3 :

2 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc. (12)

Round 4 :

4 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc. (15)

Round 5 :

6 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc. (16)

Round 6 :

5 sc, 3 inc, 8 sc. (19)

Round 7 :

6 sc, 3 inc, 10 sc. (22)

Round 8 :

8 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc. (23)

Round 9 :

9 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc. (24)

Round 10 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 11 :

10 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc. (25)

Round 12 :

25 sc. (25)

Round 13 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc. (26)

Round 14 :

26 sc. (26)

Round 15 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc. (27)

Round 16 :

27 sc. (27)

Round 17 :

12 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc. (28)

Round 18 :

28 sc. (28)

Round 19 :

13 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc. (29)

Round 20 :

29 sc. (29)

Round 21 :

29 sc. (29)

Round 22 :

14 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc. (30)

Round 23 :

30 sc. Repeat this round a total of 11 times. (30)

Info :

Sew the ears to the top of the head, starting approximately 8 rounds out from the center of the head, with the point of each ear facing downward. Once attached, fold the corners at a slight angle and hold them in place with 2 or 3 small stitches to create the natural floppy look.

— 11. Paws & Legs (white, crocheted in rounds — make 4) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 6 :

* 4 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 7 :

* 5 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 8 :

42 sc. Repeat this round a total of 4 times. (42)

Round 9 :

* 2 hdc, 2 hdc dec *, repeat 6 times, 18 sc. (36)

Round 10 :

* 1 hdc, 2 hdc dec *, repeat 6 times, 18 sc. (30)

Round 11 :

* 2 hdc dec *, repeat 6 times, 18 sc. (24)

Round 12 :

24 sc. Repeat this round a total of 5 times. (24)

Round 13 :

1 dec, 22 sc. (23)

Round 14 :

23 sc. Repeat this round a total of 5 times. (23)

Round 15 :

1 dec, 21 sc. (22)

Round 16 :

22 sc. Repeat this round a total of 7 times. (22)

Round 17 :

1 dec, 20 sc. (21)

Round 18 :

* 5 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (18)

Round 19 :

* 1 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — stuff now. (12)

Round 20 :

* 1 dec *, repeat 6 times — close and fasten off. (6)

Info :

To create 3 toes on each paw, thread a long white yarn strand through the paw twice so it divides the paw pad into three even sections. The front legs can be sewn along their full length or just fixed at the upper end about two finger-widths below the ankle. The back legs are sewn one on each side of the body, with the back paws resting against the front paws so Dotty sits upright.

— 12. Large Paw Dot (black, crocheted in rounds — make 1 per paw, 4 total) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Info :

Sew one large black dot to the underside of each paw as shown in the reference photo.

— 13. Small Paw Dots (black, crocheted in rounds — make 3 per paw, 12 total) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Info :

Make 3 small dots per paw (12 total). Sew them onto the underside of each paw alongside the large dot, arranged as shown in the reference photo.

— 14. Tail (white, crocheted in rounds) :

Round 1 :

mc 4. (4)

Round 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc. (5)

Round 3 :

1 inc, 4 sc. (6)

Round 4 :

1 inc, 5 sc. (7)

Round 5 :

1 inc, 6 sc. (8)

Round 6 :

1 inc, 7 sc. (9)

Round 7 :

1 inc, 8 sc. (10)

Round 8 :

10 sc. (10)

Round 9 :

1 inc, 9 sc. (11)

Round 10 :

11 sc. (11)

Round 11 :

1 inc, 10 sc. (12)

Round 12 :

12 sc. (12)

Round 13 :

1 inc, 11 sc. (13)

Round 14 :

13 sc. (13)

Round 15 :

1 inc, 12 sc. (14)

Round 16 :

14 sc. (14)

Round 17 :

1 inc, 13 sc. (15)

Round 18 :

15 sc. Repeat this round a total of 19 times. (15)

Round 19 :

* 1 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 5 times — stuff now. (10)

Round 20 :

* 1 dec *, repeat 5 times — close and fasten off. (5)

Info :

Attach the tail to the center back of the body, roughly 16 rounds up from the bottom middle of the body.

— 15. Large Body Spots (black, crocheted in rounds — make 3) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (30)

Info :

Make 3 large spots. Scatter them across the body, legs, ears, back of the head, and tail in a balanced arrangement.

— 16. Small Body Spots (black, crocheted in rounds — make 5) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Info :

Make 5 small spots and distribute them evenly across the body alongside the large spots. Mix sizes across the dog for a natural Dalmatian look.

— 17. Collar (red, crocheted in rows, turn with a ch) :

Row 1 :

Ch 4. (4 ch)

Row 2 :

4 sc. Continue repeating this row until the collar strip measures approximately 19 cm (about 8 inches) in length.

Info :

Center the yellow pendant on the collar strip, then wrap the collar around Dotty's neck and close it securely.

— 18. Pendant (yellow, crocheted in rounds) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

— 19. Bone Prop (natural/nude, crocheted in rounds) :

Info :

Begin by making two identical knob pieces. After completing both through round 3, place them side by side and join them by crocheting a single round around both pieces together, giving you 30 stitches total. Then continue in rounds for the shaft and finish with two separate closing knobs at the other end.

Round 1 :

mc 5. (5) — make this piece twice

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (10)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 5 times. (15)

Info :

Place both knob pieces side by side and crochet a joining round around both, resulting in 30 stitches total. Now continue working the shaft of the bone in rounds.

Round 4 :

* 3 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

* 2 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 6 :

18 sc. Repeat this round a total of 21 times. (18)

Round 7 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 8 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times — stuff the bone now. (30)

Info :

Now divide the 30 stitches into two groups of 15 to form the two end knobs. Close one half with 15 sc, ensuring the middle of the division sits directly above the lower shaft ends. Leave the other 15 stitches on hold.

Round 9 :

15 sc (first end knob). (15)

Round 10 :

15 sc. (15)

Round 11 :

* 1 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 5 times. (10)

Round 12 :

* 1 dec *, repeat 5 times — close the first knob. (5)

Info :

Repeat rounds 9–12 with the remaining 15 stitches to form the second end knob. Make sure the bone is fully stuffed before closing the final end.

— 20. Food Bowl / Potty (blue super bulky yarn held double, hook size G/8, crocheted in rounds) :

Round 1 :

mc 6. (6)

Round 2 :

* 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 3 :

* 1 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

* 2 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

* 3 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 6 :

* 4 sc, 1 inc *, repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 7 :

36 sc. Repeat this round a total of 3 times. (36)

Round 8 :

* 10 sc, 1 dec *, repeat 3 times. (33)

Assembly Instructions

  • Begin with the face. Sew the black eye-backing dot to the left side of the head, just above where the snout will sit. Layer the small left eye on top of the dot and fix the small black pupil to the lower portion of that eye. Place the larger right eye directly beside it with its pupil also positioned at the lower edge.
  • Stuff the upper snout section lightly and pin it to the head about 8 rounds up from the base of the head. Once the position looks right from the front, sew it firmly in place all the way around.
  • Assemble the full snout mouth area: sew the tongue onto the underside of the snout bottom piece first, making sure no dark yarn shows through the white fabric. Then fix the bottom piece beneath the upper snout — secure the right and left edges only about 1.5 cm (0.6 inches), leaving the rest loose to give the snout its characteristic open-mouthed look.
  • Position the black nose at the center of the snout with one corner pointing down. Use the long yarn tail to stitch twice around the snout at the join between the two semicircles, then knot three whisker-stubbles onto each side of the snout.
  • Sew all four legs and paws to the body. The back legs go one on each side of the lower body. Fix the back paws against the front paws so Dotty sits stably upright. The front legs can be sewn along their full length or just at the top, roughly two finger-widths below the ankle seam.
  • Attach the ears to the top of the head, each starting about 8 rounds from the center point, with the tip facing downward. Once attached, fold the corners into a gentle droop and hold the fold with 2–3 small stitches.
  • Sew the tail to the center of the back about 16 rounds up from the body's bottom middle. Scatter all black body spots (large and small) across the body, legs, ears, back of the head, and tail. Sew paw dots (one large, three small) to the underside of each paw. Thread the collar around Dotty's neck with the yellow pendant centered at the front, and place the bone and bowl prop beside her.

Important Notes

  • 💡The body and head are worked in one continuous piece — do not cut the yarn between the body decreases and the head increases. Stuff the body firmly at round 41 before working upward into the head, since you won't have easy access later.
  • 💡For the snout's semicircles, mark stitch 7 on each side of the base oval before you begin re-joining. The construction can be disorienting the first time — take it slowly and check the reference photos if the curves feel off.
  • 💡The nose yarn tail is a working element, not just a loose end. Use it to wrap around the snout divide twice and to knot the whisker-stubbles. Leave it extra long before you close round 10 so you have enough to complete all those details.
  • 💡The food bowl is worked with yarn held double and a significantly larger hook than the rest of the project — keep this separated from your main yarn to avoid accidentally working it single-stranded.
  • 💡When creating the 3-toe effect on the paws, thread a long strand of white yarn all the way through the paw from one side to the other, twice, pulling gently to create defined toe divisions without distorting the paw shape.
  • 💡For the bone prop, make sure both end knobs are fully stuffed before you close the final round — the narrow shaft makes it very difficult to add more stuffing once those last stitches are pulled shut.

Dotty has this way of sitting on a shelf and making everyone who walks past do a double-take. She's cheerful and a little goofy — the mismatched eyes, the stubby whiskers, the open-mouthed grin — and she comes with her own tiny bone and food bowl, which makes her feel like a complete little world you built stitch by stitch. 🐶 This is the kind of project that earns a permanent spot in your finished-makes collection, or becomes the most thoughtful gift you've ever given a dog lover. Keep going, you've got this! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Is this pattern suitable for someone who has made a few amigurumi before but nothing this complex?

Dotty is a step up from basic amigurumi. The body and head are worked as one connected piece, the snout is built in rows before switching to rounds, and several small pieces need to be layered and assembled precisely for the face to look right. If you're comfortable with magic circles, increases, decreases, and sewing pieces together, you can absolutely do this — just budget extra time for the snout construction and face assembly.

Can I use a different brand of fine weight yarn instead of Schachenmayr Catania?

Yes — any sport or fine weight (weight 2) yarn in a similar fiber content should work. The key is hitting a gauge of approximately 26 stitches by 24 rows over 10x10 cm with your 1.5mm hook. Cotton or cotton-blend yarns will give the firmest, most defined stitch definition, which really matters for keeping Dotty's face looking neat.

How do I keep the snout semicircles from looking uneven?

The most important thing is to mark stitch 7 on both sides of your base oval before you begin the first semicircle. When you re-join on the second side, match it as symmetrically as possible to the first. The two bulges don't need to be mathematically identical — a tiny size difference actually adds to Dotty's charm — but the placement should be mirrored.

The pattern says the snout should be sewn on 8 rounds from the 'heels' — what does that mean?

The 'heels' refers to the base or bottom of the head — the narrowest point where the body transitions into the head at round 41. Count 8 rounds upward from that neck join and that's where the top edge of your snout should sit. Pinning it in place and checking from the front before sewing will save a lot of frustration.

How big does Dotty turn out when finished?

At the gauge specified (26 sts x 24 rows per 10 cm with fine weight yarn and a 1.5mm hook), Dotty sits at roughly 25–30 cm tall when assembled in her seated position. If you use a slightly thicker yarn or a larger hook, she'll come out correspondingly bigger — which can look adorable but will require more yarn than the amounts listed.

Do I need to stuff the ears?

No, the ears are not stuffed. They're worked flat and floppy by design. Once sewn to the head with the tip pointing downward, you fold the corners to create the characteristic drooping shape and fix that fold with just 2 or 3 small stitches. Stuffing them would make them stick out rigidly rather than flopping naturally.