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Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern

Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern
4.3★Rating
10-12 HoursTime Needed
2.2KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern

Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This pattern makes a legendary handmade gift for birthdays or holidays. It looks stunning in traditional dragon greens or can be worked in bright, modern colors to suit any child's vibrant personality.

Why You'll Love This Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern

I honestly can't get enough of the pocket construction on this piece—it's so satisfying to see it come together! As a crafter, you'll appreciate how the seed stitch adds just enough interest to keep the rows flying by without being overly complicated. Plus, those little spikes are the perfect way to use up scraps of contrast yarn while adding a huge dose of personality to the finished sweater.

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Switch Things Up

Knitting for kids is one of my absolute favorite things to do because they actually appreciate the 'cool' factor of a handmade piece. When I first saw this Dragon Rex design, I knew it was going to be a hit. The kangaroo pocket is such a clever addition—it’s the first place my little ones check for rocks or toy cars!

If you’re feeling adventurous with your color choices, don't feel like you have to stick to green. I’ve seen a version of this in a bright 'fire' red with orange spikes that looked incredible, or even a soft lilac for a 'magical dragon' vibe. The seed stitch border is a real hero here; it keeps the edges from curling and adds a sophisticated texture that makes the whole project feel high-quality.

One little tip from my own experience: when you're sewing those spikes on, use plenty of pins! It’s tempting to just wing it, but taking the time to line them up perfectly along the center seam of the hood makes a world of difference in the final look. It’s those little details that really bring the Rex personality to life. I can't wait to see what color combos you all come up with!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If you forget to keep your pocket stitches on a holder while casting on the new ones for the inner layer, the join will look uneven and bulky.✗ The back piece is designed to be 12 rows longer than the front to create that trendy stepped hem; don't accidentally knit them to the same length or the side slits won't sit correctly.✗ When picking up stitches for the hood, it is easy to bunch them too closely together—try to space them evenly across the neck opening to avoid a puckered seam.✗ The spikes rely on kfb increases to get their sharp triangular shape, so using a different increase method might result in rounded points that don't look quite like dragon scales.

Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern

There is something absolutely magical about seeing a little one transform into a prehistoric creature just by pulling on a sweater. This Dragon Rex hoodie isn't just a piece of clothing; it's an invitation for imaginative play. You will love how the sturdy Aran weight wool creates a warm, structured fabric that stands up to all sorts of playground adventures. The textured seed stitch borders and those iconic spikes along the back and sleeves give it a high-end boutique look that you can proudly say you made yourself.

Intermediate 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Dragon Rex Hooded Sweater Knitting Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 350-450g of Aran weight wool yarn in a deep forest green for the main body
  • 02
    About 50g of Aran weight wool yarn in a contrasting slate gray for the decorative spikes

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5 mm (US 8) knitting needles (circular or straight)
  • 02
    4.5 mm (US 7) knitting needles for the decorative spikes
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Removable stitch marker
  • 05
    Two stitch holders for the pocket and neckline
  • 06
    Sewing pins for positioning the spikes before attachment

Progress Tracker

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— 1. The Seed Stitch Texture :

Row 1 :

On the RS, k1, then repeat p1 and k1 until you reach the end of the row.

Row 2 :

On the WS, p1, then repeat k1 and p1 until the end of the row.

Row 3 :

Repeat the same instructions as Row 2.

Row 4 :

Repeat the same instructions as Row 1.

— 2. Front - Size 1-2 Year Old :

Info :

Using your MC and 5mm needles, cast on 47 sts.

Row 1-12 :

Work the Seed Stitch Texture pattern for a total of 12 rows.

Row 13 :

Continue in the seed stitch pattern and cast on 2 extra sts at the very end of the row.

Row 14 :

Continue in the seed stitch pattern and cast on 2 more sts at the end of this row (51 sts total).

Info :

Keep working in the seed stitch pattern until the front of your sweater measures 7 cm from the very first cast on row.

Pocket Row 1 :

On the RS, work 13 sts in the seed stitch pattern, move the next 25 sts onto a holder and keep it at the front, cast on 25 new sts, and work the remaining 13 sts in pattern.

Pocket Row 2 :

On the WS, work 13 sts in pattern, p 25 sts, and work the last 13 sts in pattern.

Pocket Row 3 :

On the RS, work 13 sts in pattern, k 25 sts, and work the last 13 sts in pattern.

Info :

Repeat the last two rows until the front measures 18 cm from the cast on edge, finishing with a WS row.

Armhole Row 1 :

On the RS, bind off 3 sts, work 10 sts in pattern, bind off 26 sts, and work the rest in pattern.

Armhole Row 2 :

On the WS, bind off 3 sts, work 10 sts in pattern, then begin working the top layer of the pocket.

Pocket Top :

Transfer the 25 sts from the holder to your needle. With a new strand of yarn, work these sts in seed stitch for the same number of rows as the inner pocket layer. End on a WS row and leave a long tail for sewing.

Armhole Row 3 :

On the RS, bind off 1 st and work the rest in pattern.

Armhole Row 4 :

On the WS, bind off 1 st and work the rest in pattern (43 sts left).

Info :

Continue in pattern until the piece reaches 32 cm from the start.

Shoulder Row 1 :

On the RS, work 15 sts in pattern and turn your work.

Shoulder Row 2 :

On the WS, bind off 2 sts and work to the end (13 sts left for this shoulder).

Shoulder Row 3 :

On the RS, work all 13 sts in pattern and turn.

Shoulder Row 4 :

On the WS, bind off 1 st and work the remaining 12 sts in pattern.

Info :

Work 4 more rows in pattern and bind off all 12 sts.

Neckline :

With the RS facing, join yarn to the center sts. Bind off 13 sts for the neck and work the remaining 15 sts in pattern for the right shoulder.

Right Shoulder :

Repeat the shaping as done for the left shoulder, but mirrored, until you have 12 sts left. Bind off all sts.

— 3. Back - Size 1-2 Year Old :

Info :

Using MC and 5mm needles, cast on 47 sts.

Row 1-24 :

Work the Seed Stitch Texture pattern for 24 rows total. Place a marker at the start of Row 13 to help with measuring later.

Info :

Measure from the marker and follow the same instructions as the front, but skip the pocket steps. Continue until the armholes are complete.

Neckline Shaping :

When the back measures 34 cm from the cast on row, begin the shoulder shaping.

Shoulder Rows :

Follow the same bind off sequence as the front for the left and right shoulders (bind off 2 sts, then 1 st). Bind off all remaining sts when the length matches the front.

— 4. Sleeves (Make 2) :

Info :

Using MC and 5mm needles, cast on 25 sts.

Row 1-8 :

Work the Seed Stitch Texture pattern for 8 rows total.

Row 9-10 :

Knit in stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS) for 2 rows.

Increases :

Continue in stockinette, but M1 after the first st and before the last st of the row every 2nd row. Do this 10 times until you have 45 sts.

Info :

Continue until the sleeve measures 17 cm from the start.

Bind Off :

For the next 6 rows, bind off 5 sts at the start of each row. Bind off any remaining sts on the following row.

— 5. Hood Construction :

Info :

Using 5mm needles, cast on 46 sts.

Row 1 :

k1, (p1, k1) twice, knit until 5 sts remain, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Row 2 :

sl1, (p1, k1) twice, purl until 5 sts remain, (p1, k1) twice, k1.

Info :

Repeat these rows, placing a marker after the 23rd st. On every 9th RS row, kfb before and after the marker until you have 64 sts.

Info :

Continue until the hood measures 24 cm. On the next 3 RS rows, ssk before the marker and k2tog after the marker.

Finish :

Bind off all sts and sew the top seam together using the inner loops for a clean finish.

— 6. Hood Spikes (Make 2 Sets) :

Row 1 :

Using CC and 4.5mm needles, cast on 3 sts and k3.

Row 2 :

k1, kfb, k1 (4 sts).

Row 3 :

k1, kfb, k2 (5 sts).

Row 4 :

k3, kfb, k1 (6 sts).

Row 5 :

k1, kfb, k4 (7 sts).

Row 6 :

k5, kfb, k1 (8 sts).

Row 7 :

k1, kfb, k6 (9 sts).

Row 8 :

k7, kfb, k1 (10 sts).

Row 9-12 :

Knit all 10 sts.

Row 13 :

Bind off 7 sts, k3 (3 sts left).

Repeat :

Repeat Rows 2-13 nine more times until you have 10 spikes in total. Bind off all sts.

— 7. Sleeve Spikes (Make 4 Sets) :

Info :

Cast on 3 sts using CC and 4.5mm needles.

Row 1-8 :

Follow the same increase pattern as the hood spikes until you have 10 sts.

Row 9 :

Bind off 7 sts, k3.

Repeat :

Repeat the spike pattern 2 more times for a total of 3 spikes. Bind off all sts.

Assembly Instructions

  • Start by blocking all your knitted pieces to the finished measurements to ensure the edges are flat and the sizing is accurate.
  • Place the front and back pieces with right sides together and sew the shoulder seams firmly using a mattress stitch.
  • Lay the sweater flat and align the center of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam, then sew the sleeves into the armholes.
  • Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams in one go, but remember to stop at the 12-row seed stitch border to leave the side slits open.
  • Fold the hood in half and sew the top seam, then sew the cast-on edge of the hood to the neck opening, centering the seed stitch edges at the front.
  • Take two sets of spikes and sew the triangular edges together with wrong sides facing; you can add a little scrap yarn inside for extra firmness.
  • Pin the finished spike strips along the hood seam and down the sleeves, then sew them securely in place using the main color yarn.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always check your gauge before starting, as a slight difference can significantly change the fit of a full sweater.
  • 💡When working the pocket, use a separate ball of yarn for the top layer to avoid messy carries across the back of your work.
  • 💡If you prefer a more seamless look for the hood, you can use the three-needle bind-off technique instead of sewing the top seam.
  • 💡The seed stitch pattern is very forgiving, but make sure you are 'knitting the purls and purling the knits' as they appear on your needle.
  • 💡Leave long yarn tails whenever you finish a piece; they are perfect for seaming and save you from weaving in extra ends later.
  • 💡You can easily customize the number of spikes on the back if you want them to trail further down the sweater.

I hope your little dragon loves wearing this as much as you enjoyed knitting it! There's nothing quite like the look on a child's face when they see those spikes for the first time. This sweater is built to last through countless adventures and cozy afternoons alike. If you run into any tricky spots with the pocket or the hood shaping, just take it one row at a time—you've got this! Don't forget to share your finished project with the community; we all love seeing those prehistoric knits in the wild. Happy crafting! 🧶 🦖 ✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this sweater?

This pattern is designed specifically for Aran weight yarn to give the spikes and hood enough structure. If you switch to a lighter DK weight, the sweater will turn out much smaller and the spikes might flop over instead of standing up.

How do I make the spikes look more 'stuffed'?

While the pattern doesn't strictly require stuffing, you can tuck a small amount of polyester fiberfill or even leftover yarn scraps into the spikes before sewing the long straight edges together to give them a 3D effect.

Is the back really supposed to be longer than the front?

Yes! The back is 12 rows longer to create a 'stepped' hemline with side slits. This gives the sweater a modern look and allows for more movement when kids are running around.

What if I want to knit the hood in the round?

While the pattern is written for flat knitting, you could adapt it for circular needles, but you would need to be careful with the seed stitch edges at the front. Knitting it flat and seaming is generally easier for maintaining that specific border texture.