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Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern

Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern
4.7β˜…Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
4.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern

Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This little hero makes the ultimate gift for the gamer in your lifeβ€”style him on a shelf next to your console or use him as a lucky charm during your next boss battle!

Why You'll Love This Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely adore how this pattern uses everyday items like buttons and craft wire to give the finished doll so much personality and structure. The way the hair strands are layered makes him look so expressive, and there is a real sense of accomplishment when you finally equip him with his tiny shield. It is one of those projects where you can really see the character emerging with every round you finish.

Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I still remember the first time I picked up a controller to play Zelda; that sense of wonder never really leaves you, does it? Bringing Link into the real world through crochet felt like a full-circle moment for me. One of my favorite things about this design is the clever use of buttons inside the boots. It gives him just enough weight to stand tall, which is such a game-changer for display pieces!

When you're working on the hair, take your time with the strands. They can feel a bit fiddly because they're so small, but they're what give him that perfect 'hero' look. I actually found that pinning the wig in place before gluing or sewing made a world of difference in getting his expression just right. If you're feeling extra creative, you could even try making his tunic in blue or red to represent the different tunics from the games! It’s a project that really lets you geek out while you work, and I can't wait to see your version of our favorite hero.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— When joining the legs at Round 13, make sure the heels are facing you, or your hero will end up with his feet pointing the wrong way.βœ— The arm placement in Round 23 is sensitive to tension; if they don't look centered on the sides, adjust your starting sc by one or two stitches.βœ— If you forget to work in the back loops for Round 17 of the body, you won't have the front loops available to attach the shirt border later.βœ— For the sword, if you don't flatten the craft wire enough with the hammer, the blade will look bulky and won't slide into the crochet handle easily.

Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern

There is nothing quite like the magic of bringing a childhood hero to life with your own two hands. This pattern lets you recreate the iconic Hero of Time in adorable amigurumi form, complete with his signature green tunic and pointed hat. You will love how the little details, like the tiny Master Sword and Hylian-style shield, really make him look like he stepped right out of a quest. It is the perfect project for anyone who loves a bit of gaming nostalgia mixed with their crafting time.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Legendary Link Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton or acrylic yarn in beige for the skin
  • 02
    Green yarn for the iconic tunic and hat
  • 03
    Off-white yarn for the leggings and undershirt
  • 04
    Brown yarn for the boots, gloves, and belts
  • 05
    Mustard yellow yarn for the hair
  • 06
    Small amounts of yellow, grey, and royal blue for the shield and details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3mm crochet hook
  • 02
    9mm safety eyes
  • 03
    Fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Tapestry needle for assembly
  • 05
    Two 2cm buttons for foot stability
  • 06
    Thick craft wire (about 6cm)
  • 07
    Hammer and adhesive tape for wire work
  • 08
    Craft glue
  • 09
    Pins for positioning pieces

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” 1. Arms (Make Two) :

Round 1 :

Using brown yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it [6]

Round 2 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc and 1 inc three times around the ring [9]

Round 3 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [9]

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [9]

Round 5 :

Switch to off-white yarn and work 9 sc into the blo [9]

Round 6 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc and 1 dec three times around [6]

Round 7 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [6]

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [6]

Round 9 :

Flatten the arm and work 2 sc through both layers to close the opening. Tie off.

Info :

Go back to the exposed front loops of Round 5 and work a round of slst to create the glove cuff detail.

β€” 2. Legs (Make Two) :

Round 1 :

Using brown yarn, work 6 sc into a mr. Leave a long starting tail to sew the button later [6]

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc and 1 inc six times around [18]

Round 4 :

Work 18 sc into the blo only [18]

Round 5 :

Work 18 sc around [18]

Info :

Take your 2cm button and sew it securely inside the bottom of the boot using the starting yarn tail.

Round 6 :

Work 6 sc, then 3 dec in a row, and finish with 6 sc [15]

Round 7 :

Work 15 sc around [15]

Round 8 :

Work 15 sc around [15]

Round 9 :

Switch to off-white yarn and work 15 sc into the blo [15]

Round 10 :

Work 15 sc around [15]

Round 11 :

Work 15 sc around [15]

Round 12 :

Work 15 sc around [15]. Fasten off.

Info :

To finish the boot, start at the front center: ch 3, work 13 sc around the edge, ch 2, and slst into the first stitch. Use yellow yarn to embroider a small horizontal line on the front of the boot.

β€” 3. Body :

Info :

Using off-white yarn, join the two legs together with a slst. Ensure the heels are facing you when you connect them.

Round 13 :

Work 1 sc in every stitch around both legs [30]

Round 14 :

Work 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc [27]

Round 15 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [27]. Begin stuffing the legs firmly.

Round 16 :

Switch to green yarn. Work 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc [24]

Round 17 :

Work 24 sc into the blo only [24]

Round 18 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [24]

Round 19 :

Work 5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc [21]

Round 20 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [21]

Round 21 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [21]

Round 22 :

Work 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc [18]

Round 23 :

Attach the arms: Work 4 sc, then 2 sc through both the arm and body, 7 sc, 2 sc through the second arm and body, and finish with 3 sc [18]

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Check that the arms are centered; if they are slightly off, adjust your starting stitches for this round.

β€” 4. Shirt Border :

Info :

Attach green yarn to the exposed flo of Round 17 on the body.

Round 1 :

Work a sequence of 5 sc and 1 inc four times around [28]

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [28]

Round 3 :

Work a sequence of 6 sc and 1 inc four times around [32]

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [32]. Fasten off.

β€” 5. Belt :

Info :

Using brown yarn, make two separate chains of 25 stitches each. Leave tails for sewing.

Assembly :

Wrap one chain around the waist and sew it under the right arm. Wrap the second chain diagonally over the shoulder and attach it to the waist belt. Embroider a yellow line down the center of each belt.

β€” 6. Sword :

Round 1 :

Using blue yarn, work 4 sc into a mr [4]

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [4]

Round 3 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [4]

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [4]

Round 5 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [4]

Round 6 :

Work 1 sc, ch 2, slst 1 into the second ch from hook, 2 sc, ch 1, slst 1 into that ch, and finish with 1 sc. Fasten off.

Info :

Prepare the blade by wrapping adhesive tape around the head of a hammer. Hammer your craft wire flat, leaving 1cm untouched for the handle. Glue the crochet hilt onto the wire handle.

β€” 7. Head :

Round 1 :

Using beige yarn, work 6 sc into a mr [6]

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Work (1 sc, inc) six times around [18]

Round 4 :

Work (2 sc, inc) six times around [24]

Round 5 :

Work (3 sc, inc) six times around [30]

Round 6 :

Work (4 sc, inc) six times around [36]

Round 7 :

Work (5 sc, inc) six times around [42]

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 9 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 10 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 12 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 13 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 14 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Info :

Place 9mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, leaving 8 stitches of space between them.

Round 15 :

Work (5 sc, dec) six times around [36]

Round 16 :

Work (4 sc, dec) six times around [30]

Round 17 :

Work (3 sc, dec) six times around [24]

Round 18 :

Work (2 sc, dec) six times around [18]

Info :

Fasten off and stuff the head firmly. Sew the head onto the body.

β€” 8. Ears (Make Two) :

Row 1 :

Using beige yarn, ch 6. Skip the first ch, then work: slst 1, 1 sc, 2 hdc, and slst 1. Fasten off with a long tail.

Info :

Sew the ears to the sides of the head between Rounds 12 and 13, about 5 stitches away from the eyes. Ensure the curve is at the top.

β€” 9. Sleeves (Make Two) :

Row 1 :

Using green yarn, ch 7. Skip the first ch, then work: 1 sc, 3 hdc, 1 sc, and slst 1. Fasten off.

Info :

Sew the sleeves onto the shoulders over the arms with the wrong side of the crochet piece facing out.

β€” 10. Hair :

Round 1 :

Using mustard yarn, work 6 sc into a mr [6]

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in each stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Work (1 sc, inc) six times around [18]

Round 4 :

Work (2 sc, inc) six times around [24]

Round 5 :

Work (3 sc, inc) six times around [30]

Round 6 :

Work (4 sc, inc) six times around [36]

Round 7 :

Work (5 sc, inc) six times around [42]

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 9 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 10 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [42]

Strands 1-4 :

Ch 4, slst 1, 2 hdc, skip 1 stitch on the base, then slst 1 on the base. Repeat this until you have 4 small strands. Work 4 sc and a slst on the base.

Strand 5 :

Ch 10, slst 1, 8 sc. Slst 1 into the base.

Strand 6 :

Ch 7, slst 1, 2 hdc, 3 dc, then work 1 dc into the same base stitch where you started the chain. On the base, work 2 hdc and a slst.

Strand 7 :

Ch 6, slst 1, 2 hdc, 2 dc, then work 1 dc into the same base stitch where you started the chain. On the base, work 2 hdc, slst 1, 2 hdc, and 1 dc.

Strand 8 :

Ch 6, slst 1, 2 hdc, 2 dc, then slst 1 into the same base stitch where you started the chain. On the base, work 2 hdc and 1 dc.

Strand 9 :

Ch 7, slst 1, 2 hdc, 3 dc, then slst 1 into the same base stitch where you started the chain. On the base, work 1 slst.

Strand 10 :

Ch 10, slst 1, 8 sc. On the base, work 1 slst, 4 sc, and 1 slst.

Strands 11-14 :

Ch 4, slst 1, 2 hdc, skip 1 stitch on the base, then slst 1 on the base. Repeat until you have 4 strands. Fasten off.

β€” 11. Hat :

Round 1 :

Using green yarn, work 4 sc into a mr [4]

Round 2 :

Work (1 sc, inc) twice [6]

Round 3 :

Work (2 sc, inc) twice [8]

Round 4 :

Work 2 slst, 1 sc, inc, 3 slst, inc [10]

Round 5 :

Work 2 slst, 2 sc, inc, 4 slst, inc [12]

Round 6 :

Work 2 slst, 3 sc, inc, 5 slst, inc [14]

Round 7 :

Work 2 slst, 4 sc, inc, 6 slst, inc [16]

Round 8 :

Work 2 slst, 5 sc, inc, 7 slst, inc [18]

Round 9 :

Work 2 slst, 6 sc, inc, 8 slst, inc [20]

Round 10 :

Work 2 slst, 7 sc, inc, 9 slst, inc [22]

Round 11 :

Work 2 slst, 8 sc, inc, 10 slst, inc [24]

Round 12 :

Work 2 slst, 9 sc, inc, 11 slst, inc [26]

Round 13 :

Work 2 slst, 10 sc, inc, 12 slst, inc [28]

Round 14 :

Work 2 slst, 11 sc, inc, 13 slst, inc [30]

Round 15 :

Work 3 inc, 24 sc, then 3 inc [36]

Round 16 :

Work (5 sc, inc) six times around [42]

Round 17 :

Work (6 sc, inc) six times around [48]

Round 18 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [48]

Round 19 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [48]

Round 20 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [48]

Round 21 :

Work 1 sc in each stitch around [48]

Round 22 :

Work 12 sc, 24 hdc, then 12 sc [48]

Round 23 :

Work 12 sc, 24 hdc, then 12 sc [48]. Fasten off.

β€” 12. Shield :

Round 1 :

With blue yarn, work into a mr: 1 sc, ch 2, 2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc, ch 2, 1 sc. Close the ring.

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc, then in the ch-sp work {1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc}. Work 2 sc, then {1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc} in the next ch-sp. Work 2 sc, then {1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc} in the last ch-sp, and finish with 1 sc.

Round 3 :

Work 2 sc, then {1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc} in the ch-sp, 1 sc, 3 hdc, then {1 hdc, ch 2, 1 hdc} in the ch-sp, 3 hdc, 1 sc, then {1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc} in the ch-sp, and finish with 2 sc. Fasten off.

Round 4 :

Using grey yarn, work 4 slst, then ch 1 (stitching over the round 3 chain), 2 slst, 1 hdc into round 3. Work 5 slst, ch 1, 5 slst, 1 hdc into round 3. Work 2 slst, ch 1, 4 slst, and 1 hdc into round 3. Fasten off.

Info :

Make a small handle on the back of the shield using a chain and sc, sized to fit Link's wrist.

Assembly Instructions

  • Firmly stuff the body and head, then sew the head onto the body opening, ensuring it is centered.
  • Position the ears on the sides of the head between rounds 12 and 13, making sure they are level with the eyes.
  • Place the wig on the head so the small 4-sc gaps sit directly over the ears and the long strands fall at the front.
  • Sew the green sleeves over the shoulders where the arms meet the body to create a layered tunic look.
  • Secure the waist belt first, followed by the shoulder belt, and add the yellow embroidered buckle details.
  • Fold the tip of the hat to create a crease and fit it over the hair, securing it with a few hidden stitches.
  • Equip Link by sliding the shield handle onto his arm and placing the sword in his other hand.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use a stitch marker at the start of every round to keep track of your counts in this continuous-round project.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the legs very firmly right up to the button base to ensure the doll can stand upright on its own.
  • πŸ’‘When working the hair strands, keep your tension consistent so they don't curl too tightly or look uneven.
  • πŸ’‘The wire for the sword should be handled carefully; use adhesive tape on your tools to prevent scratching the wire.
  • πŸ’‘If the hat feels too loose or tight, you can easily adjust the size by adding or removing one round of 48 sc at the end.

I really hope you enjoyed adventuring through this pattern as much as I did! Seeing Link come together, from his tiny boots to that signature pointed hat, is such a rewarding experience for any maker. He looks absolutely fantastic sitting on a desk or a bookshelf, ready for his next quest. Don't forget to share your finished hero with the communityβ€”I love seeing the different shades of green and little personal touches everyone adds. Happy crocheting, and may your stitches always be even and your yarn never tangle! Keep on crafting magic! 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What can I use if I don't have a hammer for the sword?

You can use a pair of flat-nose pliers to squeeze the wire flat, or even a heavy book and some elbow grease, though a hammer gives the smoothest finish.

The hat feels too small for the head, what should I do?

Amigurumi tension can vary! If the hat isn't reaching behind the ears, simply add one or two extra rounds of 48 single crochets at the end before finishing.

Can I use felt for the eyes instead of safety eyes?

Absolutely! If you're making this for a small child, felt or embroidered eyes are actually safer and can give him a really cute, classic look.

My doll won't stand up even with the buttons, any tips?

Check your stuffing level in the legs. They need to be quite firm to support the weight of the head and hat. You can also try adding a little more stuffing right above the buttons.