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Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern

Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern
4.9★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
1.5KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern

Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Whether you are making a single statement cushion or joining several for a show-stopping heirloom throw, this square brings a sophisticated look to your handmade home decor and gets compliments every time.

Why You'll Love This Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern

I absolutely fell in love with how the colors interact in this design. Using several different shades really makes the architectural structure of the square pop, and the constant variety of stitches kept me totally engaged from the first magic ring to the final border.

Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern step 1 Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern step 2 Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern step 3 Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I have always felt that the best crochet patterns are the ones that tell a story, and this Marley Mae square is no exception. Named after my granddaughter, it was designed to reflect her analytical mind and vibrant, complicated spirit. When I first sat down to sketch this out, I knew I wanted something that would keep a seasoned crafter on their toes.

I remember working through the prototype and feeling that rush of excitement as the post stitches in Round 9 started to form that beautiful star-like shape. It is one of those projects where you can’t wait to finish one round just to see what the next one adds to the texture. My biggest tip for you is to really embrace the color changes. While it looks stunning in a solid shade, using those seven different colors really highlights the architectural nature of the stitches.

Don’t be intimidated by the long list of abbreviations! Once you get into the rhythm of the post stitches and clusters, it flows much more naturally than it looks on paper. It is the perfect companion for a quiet weekend with a big mug of tea. I can’t wait for you to experience that same sense of pride when you lay your finished, blocked square flat for the first time.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Missing the 3LP in Round 5 will flatten the texture — look right behind the top V of the stitch to find that extra horizontal bar.✗ In Round 12, do not accidentally work into the ch-1 spaces after the clusters; skipping them is what creates that specific bumpy texture.✗ The corners can get quite tight in the later rounds, so make sure you are finding the actual ch-2 space and not a stitch next to it.✗ Forgetting the shallow part of the post stitches in Round 10 can change the height of the row — keep your hook in the center of the stitch V.

Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern

This square is a true labor of love, inspired by a granddaughter with a big personality and a sharp wit. You will find yourself playing with beautiful layers of texture, from intricate post stitches to puffy clusters, creating a piece that feels as complex and lovely as the person it was named for. It is a rewarding challenge that sees a sophisticated design bloom right from the center of your hook.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Marley Mae Textured Crochet Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight 100% cotton yarn in seven colors (Buttercup, Banana, Curry, Mint, Aqua, Turquoise, and White) for the multi-colored version
  • 02
    Approximately one full skein of worsted weight cotton if you prefer a solid-color textured look

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Several stitch markers to track round starts and specific post placements
  • 03
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 04
    Sharp scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. The Center Floral Core :

Round 1 :

Using color A, start with a double magic circle. ch 3 (this counts as your first dc), then work 7 dc into the ring. Finish with an invisible join to the first actual dc. (8 dc)

Round 2 :

Join color B in any dc. *Work 1 hdc into the dc, then work a FPdc around the dc that sits immediately before the one you just used. Repeat from * all the way around. End with an invisible join. (8 hdc, 8 FPdc)

Round 3 :

Join color C in any hdc. *Work 1 hdc in the hdc and 1 hdc in the next FPdc, then work a FPdc around the FPdc from the previous round (the one right before the hdc you just made). Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (16 hdc, 8 FPdc)

Info :

Note: After finishing the BPsc in the next round, the following stitch might be slightly tucked away or hidden.

Round 4 :

Join color D in the first hdc of any two-stitch group. *Work 1 shallow BPsc around the stitch, then work 2 sc into the next stitch. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (24 sc, 12 BPsc)

— 2. Squaring the Design :

Info :

Note: For this entire round, work only into the 3LP of the stitches.

Round 5 :

Join color E in the first sc of any pair. *Work 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc (place a marker around these posts), ch 2, then work 1 dc, 1 hdc, 3 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 dc across the next 7 sts, ch 2. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (12 sc, 8 hdc, 16 dc, 8 ch-2 sp)

Round 6 :

Join color F in the ch-2 sp before your first marked post. *Work 3 hdc in the space (mark the first one), BPhdc around the next 2 dc, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 sp (mark the third one). [ch 1, sk st, 2FPdc-cluster around the next st] 3 times, ch 1, sk 1 dc. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (24 hdc, 12 2FPdc-cluster, 8 BPhdc, 16 ch-1 sp)

Round 7 :

Start in the first marked hdc from the previous round. *hdc in that hdc, sc in the next 6 sts, hdc in the next marked hdc. ch 1, sk the ch-sp, dc in the next cluster, ch 1, sk the ch-sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next cluster for the corner, ch 1, sk the ch-sp, dc in the next cluster, ch 1, sk the ch-sp. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (24 sc, 8 hdc, 24 dc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 8 :

Join color E in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the corner, sk 2 dc, 2 hdc in the ch-1 sp, sk dc, 2 hdc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1. FPsc around the hdc from round 6 (marker 3), ch 1. FPsc around the 2 dc from round 5 (markers 1 & 2), ch 1. FPsc around the hdc from round 6 (marker 4), ch 1. sk the next group of sts from round 7, 2 hdc in the next ch-1 sp, sk dc, 2 hdc in the final ch-1 sp, sk 2 dc. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (48 hdc, 16 FPsc, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

— 3. Intricate Texture Layers :

Round 9 :

Join color G in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the corner, ch 1, sk 2 hdc, FPtr around the next 2 dc from round 7. Work hdc in the space behind the FPtr. ch 1, sk 2 hdc, hdc in the space after the skipped sts, ch 2. dc2tog over the first two unworked sc from round 7, ch 1, dc3tog over the next 3 sc, ch 1, dc2tog over the last sc and hdc from round 7. ch 2, sk 2 hdc, hdc in the space after them, ch 1, sk 2 hdc, hdc in the space after them. FPtr around the 2 corner dc from round 7, ch 1, sk 2 hdc. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (32 hdc, 16 FPtr, 8 dc2tog, 4 dc3tog, 24 ch-1 sp, 8 ch-2 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 10 :

Join color G in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the corner, hdc in next 2 sts, sk ch-sp, shallow FPhdc around the 2 FPtr, sk hdc, hdc in ch-sp. FPhdc around the hdc, hdc in ch-sp, FPhdc around dc2tog, hdc in ch-sp, FPhdc around dc3tog, hdc in ch-sp, FPhdc around dc2tog, hdc in ch-sp, FPhdc around hdc, hdc in ch-sp. shallow FPhdc around the 2 FPtr, sk ch-sp, hdc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (56 hdc, 16 shallow FPhdc, 20 FPhdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Info :

Note: Watch your tension in this round; keep your stitches loose enough to prevent the square from pulling inward.

Round 11 :

Join color C in any corner ch-2 sp. *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner space, then [ch 1, sk 1 st, sc in next st] 11 times, ch 1. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 12 :

Join color B in any corner ch-2 sp. *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner. [2FPdc-cluster around the next sc from the round below, ch 1, sc in the next ch-sp, sc and ch-sp] 6 times. Work a final cluster around the next sc, ch 1. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (80 sc, 28 2FPdc-cluster, 28 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

— 4. Final Borders and Cables :

Round 13 :

Join color E in any corner ch-2 sp. *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner, then work sc into every stitch across the side, using only the BL and skipping all ch-1 spaces. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (8 sc, 108 BLsc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 14 :

Join color E in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner, ch 1, sk 1 sc, [cable st] 7 times, ch 1. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (16 dc, 28 cable st, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 15 :

Join color F in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner, ch 1, sk 2 dc, dc in the ch-sp, sk the cable stitch, then work 4 dc into the space between the next 2 cables. Repeat the 4 dc groups across the side, sk the last cable, dc in the ch-sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (128 dc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Round 16 :

Join color G in any corner ch-2 sp. *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the corner, dc in the next 2 dc and the ch-sp, dc in the next 13 dc, dc2tog over the next 2 dc, dc in the next 13 dc, dc in the ch-sp and the last 2 dc. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join. (144 dc, 4 dc2tog, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Info :

Note: If your square feels a bit small at this point, you can substitute the sc in the final round for hdc instead.

Round 17 :

Join color E in any corner ch-2 sp. *(sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner, then sc in every stitch across the side to the next corner. Repeat from * around. End with an invisible join and weave in all remaining ends. (156 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sp)

Assembly Instructions

  • Carefully weave in all yarn tails on the back of the square using a darning needle to ensure they are hidden and secure.
  • Place your finished square on a blocking board or a flat, padded surface.
  • Use rust-proof pins to stretch the square gently to its final 11 by 11 inch dimensions, ensuring the edges are straight and corners are square.
  • Lightly steam the cotton fabric with an iron or steamer, being careful not to touch the iron directly to the yarn.
  • Leave the square pinned until it is completely dry to set the intricate texture and post stitches.
  • If making multiple squares for a blanket, ensure they are all blocked to the exact same size for easier joining later.

Important Notes

  • 💡Every round in this pattern begins with a standing stitch and concludes with an invisible join for a seamless, professional finish.
  • 💡Pay close attention to the specific loop instructions, as the pattern frequently shifts between the back loop, front loop, and third loop.
  • 💡Using stitch markers to label specific posts in Rounds 5 and 6 will save you a lot of time and frustration when you need to find them in later rounds.
  • 💡The 3LP (third loop) is located just behind the standard top V of the stitch — rotating the work slightly toward you helps reveal it.
  • 💡If you find your square is curling significantly, check that your post stitches aren't too tight; they need a bit of height to sit correctly.
  • 💡Cotton yarn is recommended for this project because it provides the stitch definition necessary to make the textures really stand out.

I hope you enjoy every single stitch of this Marley Mae square as much as I did. There is something so deeply satisfying about finishing that final round and seeing all those layers of texture finally sitting perfectly together. It is a piece that truly shows off your skills and makes for a wonderful conversation starter in any home. Don't forget to block your finished square—it makes a world of difference in showing off those intricate details! Happy crocheting, and I can't wait to see the beautiful projects you create with this block! 🧶✨

You ask,

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FAQs

Can I make this square in just one color?

Absolutely! While the multi-colored version highlights the different layers, a solid color version (like the Pale Orchid example) creates a sophisticated, embossed look that really emphasizes the texture of the stitches.

What if my square isn't reaching the full 11 inches?

If your tension is on the tighter side, you can swap the single crochet stitches in Round 17 for half double crochets. This adds just enough height to the border to help you reach the desired size without changing the design.

I'm struggling to find the 'third loop' mentioned in the pattern. Where is it?

The third loop (3LP) is the horizontal bar that sits right behind and slightly below the back loop of the stitch. If you tilt the top of your work toward you, it becomes much easier to see and insert your hook into.

Is this pattern suitable for a beginner?

This pattern is best suited for an intermediate crafter. It uses a wide variety of post stitches, clusters, and cables. If you are a brave beginner, just take it round by round and use plenty of stitch markers to stay on track!