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Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern
3.9★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
1.2KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This bag makes a gorgeous handmade gift — functional, eye-catching, and personal in a way that a store-bought bag never quite manages to be.

Why You'll Love This Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

I have a soft spot for any pattern where the individual pieces look almost too pretty to assemble — and these citrus squares are exactly that. Every single one feels like a little win. The embroidery step is something I wasn't expecting to love, but stitching those white lines through the center to create the citrus segments is genuinely meditative. The moment you join the first few squares and see the citrus motifs nestling up against each other, that's it — you're hooked for the whole project.

Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern step 1 Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern step 2 Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern step 3 Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I'll be honest — when I first saw the citrus granny square concept, I thought it was going to be one of those patterns that looks incredible in photos and then is kind of a letdown once you start making it. I was completely wrong.

Each square takes maybe 15 to 20 minutes once you've done the first couple and have the rhythm down. The rounds move quickly, and the color changes give you these natural little pause points — finish a round, cut your yarn, exhale, start the next color. It almost gamifies the making process in the best way.

The embroidery is the part I'd been mentally skipping over when I read through the pattern initially, and it turned out to be my favorite step. You just weave white yarn through the center in eight directions and suddenly it looks exactly like a real citrus slice. It's one of those crafting moments that feels almost disproportionately satisfying for how simple it actually is.

For joining, I'd strongly recommend pinning your squares out in the final configuration before you start seaming. The L-shape arrangement can look confusing on paper but makes total sense once you have the physical squares laid out on your floor. I use painters tape on my blocking mat to mark the final shape so I know exactly where each square lands.

On yarn: I used a soft acrylic for my first version and it works perfectly — the structure is good and the colors stay vivid. If you want something a bit more relaxed and drapey for a beach bag feel, a cotton blend works beautifully here too. Just know that cotton bags tend to stretch a little with use, so size up your squares slightly if that concerns you.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining squares along their edges, it's easy to accidentally pull the seam too tight, which puckers the fabric and distorts the citrus motif — keep your sc tension relaxed and consistent as you work through both layers.✗ The dc6tog decrease used to shape the inner corners of the strap section requires your hook to pass through 6 separate stitch positions including two ch-1 corner spaces — missing even one of those insertions throws off the stitch count and creates a gap at the join.✗ In Round 5 of the granny square, the corner is made differently depending on which corner it is — the first corner uses ch 1 and the remaining three use ch 2. Treating them all the same will make your square uneven and affect how the squares connect later.✗ When chaining the 60-stitch strap loops in the continuous Round 1 of the strap section, it's very easy to let the chain twist before making the first dc after it — hold the loop on the hook firmly before your first yarn over to prevent the strap from spiraling.✗ Skipping the test square is the most common regret with this pattern — if your finished square bowls up more than slightly or has wavy edges, the bag panels will not lie flat when joined, and fixing it at the assembly stage is much harder than adjusting your hook size at the start.

Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

This cheerful tote bag is the kind of project that makes everyone around you ask, "Wait, you made that?" Built from citrus-inspired granny squares joined together, the finished bag has this bright, market-day energy that's hard to resist. You'll work through five rounds per square, finishing with a bit of embroidery that really brings the citrus slices to life. The straps come together in two parts — a flat border section plus a two-round loop — and the whole thing folds and seams into a proper, sturdy bag. It's a satisfying make from start to finish, and yours to carry all summer long.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Citrus Tote Bag Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Medium weight (Category 4) yarn in light yellow for the center of each granny square — used for Rounds 1 and 2
  • 02
    Medium weight (Category 4) yarn in white for the inner ring of each square — used for Round 3
  • 03
    Medium weight (Category 4) yarn in dark yellow or golden yellow for the border ring of each square — used for Round 4
  • 04
    Medium weight (Category 4) yarn in light blue for the outer hexagonal border and strap sections — used for Round 5 and all strap rounds
  • 05
    A short length of white yarn approximately 14 inches per square for the embroidered citrus segment lines

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Yarn needle or tapestry needle for weaving in ends and working the embroidery
  • 03
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Citrus Granny Square (make 13) :

Info :

Before starting, make one test square to check your gauge. If the finished square has wavy edges, go down a hook size. If the square curls up into a bowl shape, go up a hook size. A slight bow is normal — the square should relax flat once it's stretched. This square can represent any citrus variety by swapping color families.

Round 1 :

Color: Light Yellow. Start with a magic ring, then ch 2 (this counts as your first dc). Work 11 dc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed snugly. Join to the top of the starting ch 2 with a sl st. (12 stitches total)

Round 2 :

Color: Light Yellow (continued). Ch 2 and work 1 dc in the same stitch as the join. Then work 2 dc into each remaining dc around until you arrive back at the start. Close the round with a sl st into the top of the beginning ch 2. (24 stitches total) Cut the light yellow yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail through the slip stitch and tug to secure.

Round 3 :

New color: White. Create a slip knot and place it on your hook. Join to the last stitch of Round 2 with a sl st, then ch 1. Work 2 sc into the next stitch. Work 1 sc into the stitch after that. Continue alternating between 2 sc and 1 sc all the way around. Close with a sl st to the beginning ch 1. (36 stitches total) Cut the white yarn with a 6-inch tail and pull it through the slip stitch to fasten off.

Round 4 :

New color: Dark Yellow. Create a slip knot and place it on your hook. Join to the last stitch of Round 3 with a sl st, then ch 1. Work 1 sc in every stitch around. Finish with a sl st to the beginning ch 1. (36 stitches total) Cut the dark yellow yarn with a 6-inch tail and pull it through the slip stitch to fasten off.

Round 5 :

New color: Light Blue. Create a slip knot and place it on your hook. Join to the last stitch of Round 4 with a sl st, then ch 2. Work 1 dc in the next stitch. Then work 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, followed by 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. For the first corner, work 2 edc, ch 1, then 2 edc all in the same stitch. *Next, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, and 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. For the next corner, work 2 edc, ch 2, 2 edc all in the same stitch.* Repeat from * two more times to complete all four corners. Close with a sl st into the beginning ch 2. (Note: the first corner uses ch 1; the remaining three corners each use ch 2.) Cut the light blue yarn with a 6-inch tail and pull it through the slip stitch to fasten off.

Info :

Embroidery: Cut a piece of white yarn approximately 14 inches long. Anchor one end on the wrong side of the square near the center. Thread the other end onto your yarn needle and bring it up through the center of the square, then push it back down between the white and dark yellow rounds. Continue this back-and-forth weaving — always coming up through the center and going down between the white and dark yellow rounds — at the four corners, the top, the bottom, and both sides, creating eight evenly spaced spoke-like lines that mimic citrus segments. Tie off the working yarn on the wrong side when all lines are placed. Weave in all remaining tails.

— 2. Bag Assembly — Joining Squares :

Info :

You will join 11 squares in an L-shaped or cross configuration (see pattern diagram). Place two squares with right sides facing each other. Make a slip knot, place it on your hook, and insert the hook through the corners of both squares simultaneously. Work a sl st to join, then ch 1. Continue by working 1 sc in each stitch along the side of the square, inserting your hook through both layers with each stitch. Continue joining squares in this way until 11 are connected in the main panel configuration. The remaining 2 squares form the side panels of the bag.

Info :

Once all 11 squares are joined and the 2 side squares are in position, fold the panel in half so the top and bottom align. Stitch along the side seams (indicated by the red and blue lines in the pattern diagram) to close the bag. The two folded side squares become the gussets of the bag.

— 3. Straps — Part One (worked flat, repeat on both sides) :

Info :

Lay the bag flat with the right side facing out. You will work the flat strap border section first. This is worked back and forth in rows, not in the round. Repeat Part One on both the front and back of the bag opening.

Row 1 :

Color: Light Blue. Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Join with a sl st to the ch-1 corner space on the right side of the bag opening. Work 1 dc in each of the next 10 stitches. Next, work dc6tog, inserting your hook across 6 positions: the 2 edc and ch-1 from the first square's corner, plus the ch-1 and 2 edc from the adjacent square's corner. Then work 1 dc in each of the next 11 stitches (ending in the ch-1 corner space). Ch 2 and turn.

Row 2 :

Color: Light Blue (continued). Skip the first stitch (the ch 2 counts as your first dc). Work 1 dc in each of the next 8 stitches. Work dc5tog across the next 5 positions. Work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches. To finish, ch 1 and cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail through the last loop and fasten off. Flip the bag over and repeat Part One (Rows 1 and 2) on the other side.

— 4. Straps — Part Two (continuous round) :

Info :

In Part Two, the strap loops and the top border of the bag's middle section are all worked in one continuous round. Designate one side of the bag as Side A and the other as Side B. Number the four top squares 1 through 4 (squares 1 and 2 on Side A, squares 3 and 4 on Side B). The ch-1 corner spaces from the Part One rows count as stitches in this round — the pattern notes when to work into these spaces specifically.

Round 1 :

Color: Light Blue. Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. With Side A facing up, join with a sl st to the ch-1 corner space at the top of granny square 1 (starting here rather than at the top corner of the Part One rows gives the straps better structural stability). Work 1 dc in each of the next 10 stitches. Work dc6tog across the corner positions linking squares 1 and 2 (including the ch-1 spaces). You are now working across Side B. On granny square 4, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 stitches (ending in the ch-1 corner space). Work 2 dc in each row end from Part One (4 rows = 4 dc total). Ch 60 for the first strap. Work 2 dc in each row end from Part One on granny square 3 (4 dc total). Work 1 dc in each of the next 11 stitches across square 3 (the first dc goes in the ch-1 forming the first corner). Work dc6tog across the corner positions linking squares 3 and 4 (including ch-1 spaces). You have now returned to Side A. On granny square 2, work 1 dc in each of the next 11 stitches (ending in the ch-1 corner space). Work 2 dc in each row end from Part One (4 dc total). Ch 60 for the second strap. Work 2 dc in each row end from Part One on square 1 (4 dc total). Close with a sl st to join the round. Ch 2.

Info :

Note: Making the first dc after each ch-60 strap can feel awkward. Try holding the loop on the hook in place before your first yarn over so the chain doesn't twist when you begin working into it.

Round 2 :

Color: Light Blue (continued). Skip the first stitch (the ch 2 counts as your first dc). Work 1 dc in each of the next 8 stitches. **Work dc5tog. Then work 1 dc in each of the next 13 stitches. Work 1 dc in each chain stitch across the 60-chain strap (60 dc). Work 1 dc in each of the next 13 stitches.** Repeat the section between ** one more time across the second strap. To finish the round, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 stitches, then join with a sl st. Cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail, pull it through the last loop, and fasten off.

— 5. Finishing :

Info :

Turn the bag inside out. Using a tapestry needle, weave in all remaining yarn tails securely. Turn right side out to finish.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join 11 granny squares in the required configuration (an L-shape or cross arrangement) by holding pairs right-sides together and working a slip stitch join followed by sc through both layers along each shared edge.
  • Once the main 11-square panel is joined, fold it in half so the top edge and bottom edge align — the two remaining squares should sit at the sides, folded in half to form the bag's gussets.
  • Seam along both side edges (following the red and blue stitch lines in the diagram) to close the bag into its tote shape.
  • Work Part One of the straps on both the front and back of the bag opening: two rows of dc worked flat across the top of the two-square section, with dc6tog shaping at the center joins and dc5tog shaping on the return row.
  • Work the continuous strap round (Part Two) by joining at the ch-1 corner space of square 1 on Side A, working dc across the top squares, inserting two ch-60 chains for the strap handles, and working 2 dc into each Part One row end to create smooth transitions between the flat border and the strap loops.
  • Complete the second strap round, working dc5tog at the inner corners and 1 dc across every chain stitch of both strap handles.
  • Turn the finished bag inside out, weave in all remaining tails using a tapestry needle, and turn right side out to reveal the finished tote.

Important Notes

  • 💡Make a test granny square before cutting into your full yarn supply — hook size affects whether the square lies flat or bowls, and this directly impacts how the assembled bag panels sit when joined.
  • 💡The ch-1 corner on the first corner of Round 5 differs from the ch-2 used on the remaining three corners. This is intentional and affects how the squares connect, so don't standardize them.
  • 💡When working dc6tog or dc5tog for the strap shaping, the ch-1 corner spaces of the granny squares are treated as stitches — insert your hook into these spaces as part of the decrease rather than skipping over them.
  • 💡The embroidery step is worked after all squares are complete but before assembly — it is much easier to embroider individual flat squares than it is to work on the assembled bag.
  • 💡When chaining the 60-stitch strap loops, hold the working loop on your hook firmly before making the first dc on the other side of the chain to prevent the strap from developing a twist.
  • 💡The pattern is designed in medium weight (Category 4) yarn on a 4.5mm hook — changing yarn weight will change the finished square size and therefore the finished bag dimensions.

There's something really special about carrying a bag you crocheted yourself — and this one gets so many looks. 🍋 Each little citrus square is its own small achievement, and watching all 13 of them come together into an actual usable tote is one of those crafting moments that just sticks with you. Whether you go classic lemon yellow, switch things up with lime greens, or try a pink grapefruit palette, the construction stays the same and the results are always gorgeous. 🧶 This is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place — practical, beautiful, and completely made by your own two hands. Happy making! ✨

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FAQs

How big is the finished tote bag?

The finished size depends on your gauge, which is why a test square is so important. Each granny square should measure approximately the same size once blocked — the pattern doesn't specify a finished bag dimension, so if you need a particular size, adjust your hook up or down and re-test your square first.

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

You can, but the pattern is written for medium weight (Category 4) yarn. Going up to bulky will make each square noticeably larger and the bag overall more oversized and slouchy. Going down to DK weight will make a smaller, slightly more structured bag. Either way, your test square will tell you if the fabric feels right.

What does the finished square look like before the embroidery is added?

Before embroidery it looks like a blue-bordered granny square with a yellow and white center circle. The white embroidery lines you stitch in afterward are what create the citrus segment effect — without them the circles look like abstract rounds rather than actual fruit slices.

Is the bag lined or does it need a lining?

The pattern doesn't include a lining — the bag is worked in crochet only. If you plan to carry small items that might poke through the stitch gaps, you can easily hand-sew a simple fabric lining into the finished bag as an optional step.

How do I change the fruit colors to make limes or oranges?

Simply swap the light yellow in Rounds 1 and 2 for bright green (lime) or light orange (orange or grapefruit), keep white for Round 3, then use a darker shade of your chosen fruit color for Round 4. The blue outer border in Round 5 works with any fruit color, or you could try a neutral cream for a different look.

The dc6tog stitch feels really fiddly — any tips?

Yes — slow down and count each insertion point before you pull through. You are inserting into 2 edc, 1 ch-1 from the first square, then 1 ch-1 and 2 edc from the next square — 6 total. Using a slightly smaller hook to pick up each loop can help, and going slowly on the final pull-through keeps the decrease tidy.