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Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern

Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern
4.9★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
2.4KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern

Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This makes a truly thoughtful handmade gift — the kind of thing someone puts on their work desk and gets asked about constantly. It photographs beautifully and looks far more complex than it actually is to make.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern

I love this pattern because it scratches a completely different itch than most crochet projects. There's no face to attach, no limbs to stuff and sew symmetrically — instead you're building something sculptural, almost architectural. I found the trunk section genuinely satisfying to work through; watching the shape curve and taper as you shift between stitch heights is so clever. And laying out all the finished leaf pads before you sew them on, playing with the composition like a little artist — honestly one of my favourite parts of any pattern I've ever made.

Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern step 1 Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern step 2 Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern step 3 Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I've made a lot of crochet projects over the years, but this bonsai tree is one I keep coming back to — not to remake it, but just to look at it sitting on my shelf and feel genuinely pleased with myself. There's something different about making something that looks architectural rather than cuddly.

The trunk section is where I fell in love with this pattern. The way the mixed stitches — sc, hdc, dc in the same round — push the tube into a curve without any wire at all? I genuinely sat and stared at it for a minute when I realised what was happening. You're sculpting with stitch height. That felt like a revelation.

My one big tip: do not skip the stitch marker repositioning steps. I know they feel like a lot of faff when you're in a rhythm and just want to keep going, but those mid-round shifts are what keep the corner shaping on the pot aligned and the trunk's curve consistent. Skip them and things drift. Trust the process.

For colour variations — the classic light green pot and brown trunk is gorgeous, but I've been thinking about trying a deep terracotta pot instead, or even a pale sage green trunk to suggest a silver birch vibe. The leaf pads would pop beautifully in a variegated dark green if you can find one with enough tonal variation.

Leaf placement is honestly one of the most enjoyable parts. Use pins or thin skewers to try positions before committing — move them around, step back, look at the composition. It's a tiny bit like being an artist arranging a still life. Keep the heaviest leaf pads low and work upward with the smaller ones, and your tree will stand perfectly on its own.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When folding the flower pot into shape after the final slip stitch, it can be tricky to get the corners to sit crisply — go slowly and pin the four corners in position before sewing anything down so the square shape reads clearly.✗ The stitch marker repositioning steps in the flower pot and tree trunk sections are easy to skip by accident, but they're essential for keeping the decreases aligned at the corners — if you miss them the shaping will spiral off-centre.✗ Stuffing the tree trunk too early or too little causes the curved sections to collapse or look flat — follow the pattern's specific stuffing checkpoints and really pack the lower trunk firmly before continuing upward.✗ When distributing the leaves across the trunk, placing too many heavy Type A leaves near the top will make the finished tree tip forward out of the pot — keep A leaves in the lower third and save the smaller Type C pads for the very top.✗ The soil disc needs the yarn-pulling texture technique done before it goes into the pot — if you place it first and then try to create the dents, you'll have no room to work and the stitching will be uneven.✗ Sewing the four pot feet at uneven heights will make the flower pot wobble rather than sit flat — measure 8 rounds of sc down from the top rim on all four corners before attaching each support to keep them consistent.

Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern

There's something almost meditative about crocheting a bonsai tree — each round of the trunk, each tiny leaf pad, each little stone placed just so. This pattern gives you a miniature living sculpture you can actually keep forever, no watering required. You'll work through a sculpted flower pot, a gnarled curving trunk, three sizes of leaf pads, matching branches, and a handful of tiny stones nestled in dark brown soil. The finished piece sits about 22cm tall and 25cm wide — substantial enough to be a real statement on a shelf or desk. Whether you make it for yourself or wrap it up as a gift, this one genuinely feels special when it's done.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Bonsai Tree Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Light green DK / light worsted weight yarn — approximately 160m (180yd) for the flower pot and pot feet
  • 02
    Dark green DK / light worsted weight yarn — approximately 72m (80yd) for all three sizes of leaf pads
  • 03
    Light brown DK / light worsted weight yarn — approximately 80m (88yd) for the tree trunk and all branches
  • 04
    Dark brown DK / light worsted weight yarn — approximately 80m (88yd) for the soil disc
  • 05
    Light grey DK / light worsted weight yarn — approximately 10m (11yd) for the three decorative stones

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G / 4.0mm
  • 02
    Tapestry or sewing needle for assembly and weaving in ends
  • 03
    Fiberfill / polyester stuffing for the tree trunk, soil disc, and pot feet
  • 04
    Stitch marker or scrap yarn to track round beginnings
  • 05
    Small pins or thin skewer sticks (optional, helpful for testing leaf placement before sewing)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Flower Pot (light green, worked in spirals) :

Info :

The flower pot is worked in spirals throughout. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. Pay close attention to inc1sc (2 sc in next st) vs inc2sc (3 sc in next st) — they look similar but produce different counts.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 4 sc into it. (4)

Round 2 :

Work inc2sc into every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat 4 times: 1sc, inc2sc in next st, 1sc. (20)

Round 4 :

Repeat 4 times: 2sc, inc2sc in next st, 2sc. (28)

Round 5 :

Repeat 4 times: 3sc, inc2sc in next st, 3sc. (36)

Round 6 :

Repeat 4 times: 4sc, inc1sc in next st, 4sc. (40)

Round 7 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, inc1sc in next st, 4sc. (44)

Round 8 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, inc2sc in next st, 5sc. (52)

Round 9 :

Repeat 4 times: 6sc, inc1sc in next st, 6sc. (56)

Round 10 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, inc1sc in next st, 6sc. (60)

Round 11 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, inc2sc in next st, 7sc. (68)

Round 12 :

Repeat 4 times: 8sc, inc1sc in next st, 8sc. (72)

Round 13 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, inc1sc in next st, 8sc. (76)

Round 14 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, inc2sc in next st, 9sc. (84)

Round 15 :

Repeat 4 times: 10sc, inc1sc in next st, 10sc. (88)

Round 16 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, inc1sc in next st, 10sc. (92)

Round 17 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, inc2sc in next st, 11sc. (100)

Round 18 :

Repeat 4 times: 12sc, inc2sc in next st, 12sc. (108)

Round 19-23 :

Work 5 rounds of sc all the way around. (108)

Info :

After those 5 plain rounds, crochet 1sc and shift your stitch marker to this new point. This becomes your new round start — do not close or finish the current round before continuing.

Round 24 :

Repeat 4 times: 12sc, sc3tog, 12sc. (100)

Round 25-28 :

Work 4 rounds of sc all the way around. (100)

Info :

Crochet 1sc and shift your stitch marker to this new point again. Continue directly into the next round without finishing.

Round 29 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, sc3tog, 11sc. (92)

Round 30 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, sc2tog, 10sc. (88)

Round 31 :

Repeat 4 times: 10sc, sc2tog, 10sc. (84)

Round 32 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, sc3tog, 9sc. (76)

Round 33 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (72)

Round 34 :

Repeat 4 times: 8sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (68)

Round 35 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, sc3tog, 7sc. (60)

Round 36 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, sc2tog, 6sc. (56)

Round 37 :

Repeat 4 times: 6sc, sc2tog, 6sc. (52)

Round 38 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, sc3tog, 5sc. (44)

Round 39 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (40)

Round 40 :

Repeat 4 times: 4sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (36)

Round 41 :

Repeat 4 times: 3sc, sc3tog, 3sc. (28)

Round 42 :

Repeat 4 times: 2sc, sc3tog, 2sc. (20)

Round 43 :

Repeat 4 times: 1sc, sc3tog, 1sc. (12)

Round 44 :

Repeat 4 times: sc3tog. (4)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Do not add any stuffing to the flower pot. Position the final slip stitch directly over the magic ring from Round 1, then fold the pot into its finished shape.

— 2. Flower Pot Feet (light green, worked in spirals — make 4) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. (6)

Round 2 :

Work inc1sc into every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

Work 1sc, then inc1sc in the following st. Repeat this sequence all the way around. (18)

Round 4 :

Work 1sc, then sc2tog. Repeat all the way around. (12)

Info :

Add a small amount of fiberfill — just a light fill, not too packed.

Round 5 :

Work sc2tog all the way around. (6)

Round 6 :

Sc3tog, skip the next stitch, work 1slst and fasten off. Make 4 feet in total. Position one foot under each corner of the pot, keeping them 8 rounds of sc away from the top rim of the pot on the outside.

— 3. Soil (dark brown, worked in spirals) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 4 sc. (4)

Round 2 :

Work inc2sc into every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat 4 times: 1sc, inc2sc in next st, 1sc. (20)

Round 4 :

Repeat 4 times: 2sc, inc2sc in next st, 2sc. (28)

Round 5 :

Repeat 4 times: 3sc, inc2sc in next st, 3sc. (36)

Round 6 :

Repeat 4 times: 4sc, inc1sc in next st, 4sc. (40)

Round 7 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, inc1sc in next st, 4sc. (44)

Round 8 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, inc2sc in next st, 5sc. (52)

Round 9 :

Repeat 4 times: 6sc, inc1sc in next st, 6sc. (56)

Round 10 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, inc1sc in next st, 6sc. (60)

Round 11 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, inc2sc in next st, 7sc. (68)

Round 12 :

Repeat 4 times: 8sc, inc1sc in next st, 8sc. (72)

Round 13 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, inc1sc in next st, 8sc. (76)

Round 14 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, inc2sc in next st, 9sc. (84)

Round 15 :

Repeat 4 times: 10sc, inc1sc in next st, 10sc. (88)

Round 16 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, inc1sc in next st, 10sc. (92)

Round 17 :

Repeat 4 times: 11sc, sc2tog, 10sc. (88)

Round 18 :

Repeat 4 times: 10sc, sc2tog, 10sc. (84)

Round 19 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, sc3tog, 9sc. (76)

Round 20 :

Repeat 4 times: 9sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (72)

Round 21 :

Repeat 4 times: 8sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (68)

Round 22 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, sc3tog, 7sc. (60)

Round 23 :

Repeat 4 times: 7sc, sc2tog, 6sc. (56)

Round 24 :

Repeat 4 times: 6sc, sc2tog, 6sc. (52)

Round 25 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, sc3tog, 5sc. (44)

Round 26 :

Repeat 4 times: 5sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (40)

Round 27 :

Repeat 4 times: 4sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (36)

Info :

Fill the soil disc with fiberfill at this point.

Round 28 :

Repeat 4 times: 3sc, sc3tog, 3sc. (28)

Round 29 :

Repeat 4 times: 2sc, sc3tog, 2sc. (20)

Info :

Add another round of fiberfill stuffing.

Round 30 :

Repeat 4 times: 1sc, sc3tog, 1sc. (12)

Info :

Stuff once more with fiberfill.

Round 31 :

Repeat 4 times: sc3tog. (4)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. To create the natural textured look of soil: thread a long strand of dark brown yarn through the disc from top to bottom and back, then pull it snug so small dents form on the surface. Tie two flat knots to secure. Repeat this across the disc about 16 times, or to your liking — this both adds strength and gives the piece a realistic earthy appearance.

— 4. Tree Trunk (light brown, worked in spirals) :

Info :

The trunk is shaped using a mix of sc, hdc, and dc stitches — the taller stitches on one side create the natural curve of a bonsai trunk. Work in spirals unless a stitch marker reposition is indicated.

Round 1 :

Chain 30, then close the chain into a ring with 1slst. (30)

Round 2 :

Work 30sc around. (30)

Round 3 :

8sc, sc2tog. Repeat this sequence all the way around. (27)

Round 4 :

7sc, sc2tog. Repeat all the way around. (24)

Round 5 :

6sc, sc2tog. Repeat all the way around. (21)

Round 6 :

4sc, 3hdc, 7dc, 3hdc, 4sc. (21)

Round 7 :

4sc, 3hdc, 7dc, 3hdc, 4sc. (21)

Round 8 :

4sc, 3hdc, 7dc, 3hdc, 4sc. (21)

Round 9 :

4sc, 3hdc, 7dc, 3hdc, 4sc. (21)

Round 10 :

4sc, 3hdc, 7dc, 3hdc, 4sc. (21)

Round 11 :

10sc, sc2tog, 9sc. (20)

Round 12 :

9sc, sc2tog, 9sc. (19)

Round 13 :

8sc, sc2tog, 9sc. (18)

Info :

Work 10sc then shift your stitch marker to this new position. This becomes the new round start — continue directly without closing the round.

Round 14 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 15 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 16 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 17 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 18 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 19 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 20 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 21 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 22 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 23 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 24 :

3sc, 3hdc, 6dc, 3hdc, 3sc. (18)

Round 25 :

8sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (17)

Round 26 :

7sc, sc2tog, 8sc. (16)

Round 27 :

7sc, sc2tog, 7sc. (15)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk at this point.

Round 28 :

7sc, sc2tog, 6sc. (14)

Info :

Work 7sc then shift your stitch marker to this new position. Continue without closing the round.

Round 29 :

2sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (14)

Round 30 :

2sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (14)

Round 31 :

2sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (14)

Round 32 :

2sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (14)

Round 33 :

2sc, 2hdc, 6dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (14)

Round 34 :

2sc, 2hdc, 2dc, dc2tog, 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (13)

Round 35 :

2sc, 2hdc, 5dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (13)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 36 :

2sc, 2hdc, 1dc, dc2tog, 2dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (12)

Round 37 :

2sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (12)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 38 :

2sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (12)

Round 39 :

2sc, 2hdc, 4dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (12)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 40 :

2sc, 2hdc, 1dc, dc2tog, 1dc, 2hdc, 2sc. (11)

Round 41 :

5sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (10)

Round 42 :

4sc, sc2tog, 4sc. (9)

Round 43 :

4sc, sc2tog, 3sc. (8)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 44 :

8sc. (8)

Round 45 :

8sc. (8)

Info :

Work 4sc then shift your stitch marker to this new position. Continue without closing the round.

Round 46 :

1sc, 1hdc, 4dc, 1hdc, 1sc. (8)

Round 47 :

2sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc, 2sc. (8)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 48 :

2sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc, 2sc. (8)

Round 49 :

2sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 1hdc, 2sc. (8)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 50 :

6sc, sc2tog. (7)

Round 51 :

5sc, sc2tog. (6)

Info :

Add fiberfill to the trunk.

Round 52 :

4sc, sc2tog. (5)

Round 53 :

3sc, sc2tog. (4)

Round 54 :

2sc, sc2tog. (3)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Add a little more fiberfill to the base of the trunk from the bottom if it needs it, then sew the trunk firmly onto the centre of the soil disc.

— 5. Stones (light grey, worked in spirals) :

Info :

Three different sized stones are made: A (largest), B (medium), and C (smallest). None of them are stuffed with fiberfill.

Stone A — Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc. (6)

Stone A — Round 2 :

Work inc1sc into every stitch around. (12)

Stone A — Round 3 :

1sc, inc1sc in next st. Repeat this all the way around. (18)

Stone A — Round 4 :

1sc, sc2tog. Repeat all the way around. (12)

Stone A — Round 5 :

Sc2tog all the way around. (6)

Stone A — Round 6 :

Sc3tog, skip next st, work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff.

Stone B — Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc. (6)

Stone B — Round 2 :

Work inc1sc into every stitch around. (12)

Stone B — Round 3 :

Sc2tog all the way around. (6)

Stone B — Round 4 :

Sc3tog, skip next st, work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff.

Stone C — Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc. (6) Note: the source lists this as MR6=6 like the others but the following steps close it very quickly — this is the smallest, flattest stone.

Stone C — Round 2 :

Sc3tog, sc2tog, work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff.

Info :

Arrange all three stones on top of the soil beside the tree base. Stone A sits slightly overlapping Stone B; Stone C tucks in next to both A and B with a gap of 1–2 sc between them.

— 6. Leaves Type A — Dark Green, Worked Flat (make 2) :

Info :

Leaves start from a foundation chain and then transition into working in spirals from Round 3 onward. Do not stuff any leaves — flatten each one and sew the remaining hole shut when finished.

Row 1 :

Chain 5, turn.

Row 2 :

Beginning in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3sc, inc2sc in the next st. (6)

Round 3 :

Work along the underside of the foundation chain: 3sc, inc2sc in the last ch st. You now have a 12-stitch oval and will continue in spirals from here. (12)

Round 4 :

3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st). (18)

Round 5 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st). (24)

Round 6 :

3sc, then 3 times (2sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (2sc, inc1sc in next st). (30)

Round 7 :

3sc, then 3 times (3sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (3sc, inc1sc in next st). (36)

Round 8 :

3sc, then 3 times (3sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (3sc, sc2tog). (30)

Round 9 :

3sc, then 3 times (2sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (2sc, sc2tog). (24)

Round 10 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog). (18)

Round 11 :

3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog). (12)

Round 12 :

3sc, sc3tog, 3sc, sc3tog. (8)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Flatten the leaf and sew the small remaining gap closed. Make 2 of these Type A leaves.

— 7. Leaves Type B — Dark Green, Worked Flat (make 4) :

Row 1 :

Chain 5, turn.

Row 2 :

Beginning in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3sc, inc2sc in the next st. (6)

Round 3 :

Along the underside of the foundation chain: 3sc, inc2sc in the last ch st. You now have a 12-stitch oval — continue in spirals. (12)

Round 4 :

3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st). (18)

Round 5 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st). (24)

Round 6 :

3sc, then 3 times (2sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (2sc, inc1sc in next st). (30)

Round 7 :

3sc, then 3 times (2sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (2sc, sc2tog). (24)

Round 8 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog). (18)

Round 9 :

3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog). (12)

Round 10 :

3sc, sc3tog, 3sc, sc3tog. (8)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Flatten and sew the remaining gap closed. Make 4 of these Type B leaves.

— 8. Leaves Type C — Dark Green, Worked Flat (make 3) :

Row 1 :

Chain 5, turn.

Row 2 :

Beginning in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3sc, inc2sc in the next st. (6)

Round 3 :

Along the underside of the foundation chain: 3sc, inc2sc in the last ch st. Continue in spirals. (12)

Round 4 :

3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (inc1sc in next st). (18)

Round 5 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, inc1sc in next st). (24)

Round 6 :

3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (1sc, sc2tog). (18)

Round 7 :

3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog), 3sc, then 3 times (sc2tog). (12)

Round 8 :

3sc, sc3tog, 3sc, sc3tog. (8)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Flatten and sew the remaining gap closed. Make 3 of these Type C leaves.

— 9. Branches Type A — Light Brown, Worked in Spirals (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc. (6)

Round 2 :

4sc, sc2tog. (5)

Round 3 :

3sc, sc2tog. (4)

Round 4-8 :

Work 5 rounds of sc. (4)

Round 9 :

2sc, sc2tog. (3)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff. Make 2 Type A branches.

— 10. Branches Type B — Light Brown, Worked in Spirals (make 4) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc. (6)

Round 2 :

4sc, sc2tog. (5)

Round 3 :

3sc, sc2tog. (4)

Round 4-7 :

Work 4 rounds of sc. (4)

Round 8 :

2sc, sc2tog. (3)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff. Make 4 Type B branches.

— 11. Branches Type C — Light Brown, Worked in Spirals (make 3) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 5 sc. (5)

Round 2 :

3sc, sc2tog. (4)

Round 3-6 :

Work 4 rounds of sc. (4)

Round 7 :

2sc, sc2tog. (3)

Info :

Work 1slst and fasten off. Do not stuff. Make 3 Type C branches.

Assembly Instructions

  • Start by completing the flower pot and sewing all four feet to the underside — one under each corner, positioned so the outer edge of each foot sits 8 rounds of sc down from the top rim of the pot.
  • Secure the finished soil disc inside the flower pot by sewing around its outer edge — it should sit flat and flush inside the pot without bunching.
  • Position the light brown tree trunk at the very centre of the soil disc and sew it down firmly through both layers, making sure it sits upright before securing all the way around the base.
  • Before attaching any branches, divide the trunk visually into three zones — lower third, middle, and upper third. Use small pins or thin skewers to test leaf placement first so you can adjust the composition before committing to any sewing.
  • Sew all branches onto the trunk one at a time: Type A branches (the heaviest) go mostly in the lower third, Type B branches in the middle and lower areas, and Type C branches (the lightest) at the top. Make sure all leaf pads will point in the same direction before sewing.
  • Once all branches are attached, sew the matching leaf pad onto each branch — Type A leaves on Type A branches, B on B, C on C. Keep the inner edge of each leaf close to the trunk itself so the weight is balanced and the tree can stand without tipping.
  • Finally, place the three grey stones onto the soil beside the tree base: Stone A sitting slightly over Stone B, with Stone C tucked in next to them leaving a gap of roughly 1–2 sc between them. Tack them lightly in place with a few stitches if desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡This pattern is worked in US terminology throughout — make sure your abbreviation reference matches US crochet terms before starting.
  • 💡The stitch marker repositioning steps in the flower pot and trunk sections are not optional — they shift the round's starting point so that the corner decreases and mixed-stitch shaping land in the right place. Read each repositioning instruction carefully before continuing.
  • 💡The trunk's curved shape comes entirely from alternating sc, hdc, and dc stitches on the same round — no wire is needed. The taller stitches push one side outward, so make sure you always orient the dc stitches consistently to the same side of the trunk to maintain the curve.
  • 💡Balance is everything with this project. Heavy Type A leaf pads placed too high on the trunk will cause the finished tree to tip forward out of the pot — always keep the largest leaves low and work up to the smallest at the top.
  • 💡Do the yarn-pulling texture technique on the soil disc before placing it inside the pot — once it's sewn in you won't have enough room to pull the yarn through cleanly.
  • 💡None of the leaf pads or branches get stuffed — flatten them completely after fastening off and sew any remaining gap shut before assembly. A puffy leaf pad will look wrong and won't lay flat against the branch.

And that's your crochet bonsai tree — all done! 🌳 From the curving trunk to the layered leaf pads in three sizes, every piece of this project comes together into something that genuinely looks like it took years of patience to grow. It's the kind of handmade piece that sits on a shelf and makes people stop and look twice. Whether you keep it for yourself or give it as a gift, I hope you loved every round of making it. Take a photo before you put it down — you've earned it! 🧶✨

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FAQs

What does the finished bonsai tree look like in terms of size?

When made with DK / light worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook as described, the finished tree comes out approximately 22cm (9 inches) tall and 25cm (10 inches) wide — a really satisfying, shelf-worthy size.

Do I need wire to make the trunk hold its curved shape?

No wire at all — the curve is created entirely through stitch height. Rounds that alternate between sc, hdc, and dc on the same round push one side of the tube outward, building up the organic bonsai curve naturally. Just make sure you always orient the dc stitches to the same side.

Can I use worsted weight yarn instead of DK?

You can, but the finished tree will end up noticeably larger — probably 25–30% bigger overall — and the fabric will be denser. The leaf pads in particular may not flatten as neatly. If you want to keep the 22cm finished size, stick with DK or a light worsted.

How do I stop the tree from tipping over after I attach the leaves?

The key is weight distribution — the heaviest Type A leaf pads must stay in the lower third of the trunk. If you put large leaves near the very top, the tree will tip. Use pins or skewers to test placement before sewing anything permanently, and you'll be able to find a balanced composition first.

Is this pattern suitable for someone who has never made a shaped crochet project before?

It's rated Intermediate — you'll need to be comfortable with magic rings, working in spirals, and basic increases and decreases before starting. The stitch-marker repositioning steps in the pot and trunk sections also require a bit of pattern-reading confidence. If you've made a few amigurumi figures before, you'll be well prepared.

Why does the pattern keep asking me to reposition my stitch marker mid-round?

The repositioning steps shift where your round officially starts so that the corner shaping (on the pot) and the mixed-stitch curves (on the trunk) land symmetrically. If you skip these steps and keep your original marker in place, the decreases will drift and the corners and curve won't align correctly — so these are genuinely important, not just suggestions.