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Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern

Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
3.7KMade This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crocheting journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern

Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Style it with high-waisted jeans or layer it over a sundress—this top works for every summer occasion and gets compliments every single time you wear it out.

Why You'll Love This Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern

I am a huge fan of patterns that do not force you into a specific size box. Being able to measure as I go makes the process so much more relaxing because I know the final piece will actually fit. Plus, switching between hook sizes is such a clever way to get that lacy drape without having to learn complex stitch work!

Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I really love how this design turned out because it solves that age-old problem of crochet tops never quite fitting the way they should. By using the 'made-to-measure' approach, we're basically draping the yarn right onto our bodies as we go. My favorite part has to be the back ties—they aren't just for show! They actually let you cinch the underbust perfectly so the cups stay exactly where they're supposed to.

When I was making my first version, I played around with the peplum length quite a bit. If you want more of a 'baby-doll' look, keep it short, but if you're looking for something that hits closer to the hips, just keep repeating that Iris stitch row until you're happy. Also, don't be afraid to experiment with color! A variegated yarn can look stunning in the lace section while keeping the cups a solid, matching shade. It’s a great way to use up those beautiful single skeins you’ve been saving for something special. Just remember to relax your tension when you switch to that bigger hook—the goal is flow and movement!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If you do not account for yarn stretch when measuring your underbust, the back ties might end up feeling too loose once you start wearing the top.✗ Forgetting to switch to the larger 5mm hook for the body section will result in a stiff peplum rather than the intended flowy, lacy look.✗ When working the straps, if you do not ensure your starting chain isn't twisted before slip stitching to the back, you will have a permanent kink in your strap.✗ Placing the back strap markers asymmetrically will cause the top to pull to one side, so double-check they are exactly 1 inch from the body edge on both sides.

Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern

You are going to love how this breezy top comes together! It has that gorgeous empire silhouette that looks amazing on everyone, and those long back ties mean you can adjust the fit exactly how you like it. I designed this to be a made-to-measure piece, so you can grab your favorite yarn and make a top that actually fits your body perfectly without any guesswork.

Beginner Friendly 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Hyacinth Lace Empire Waist Top Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 200g to 350g of DK or Sport weight acrylic yarn depending on your measurements
  • 02
    The sample used Indophil 4ply acrylic yarn in a soft white

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0mm crochet hook for the main structure and coverage
  • 02
    5.0mm crochet hook to create the lacy drape effect
  • 03
    Several stitch markers to track placements
  • 04
    Tape measure for custom sizing
  • 05
    Sharp scissors for finishing
  • 06
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Progress Tracker

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— 1. The Cups :

Info :

Use the smaller 3.0mm hook for this section to ensure the fabric is dense enough for coverage.

Row 1 :

Create a ch that matches Measurement A (side of breast to nipple), then ch 2 more. dc into the 3rd ch from your hook and in every ch across.

Row 2 :

ch 2 and turn. Work 1 dc into every st across the row.

Row 3-8 :

Repeat the previous row until the height of your piece matches Measurement B (bottom of breast to nipple).

Row 9 :

In the very last st of the previous row, add 2 extra dc for a total of 3 dc in that corner. Now work down the side of your rows, placing 2 dc into the side of every dc post until you reach the bottom corner.

Row 10 :

ch 2 and turn. Work 1 dc into every st across.

Row 11-15 :

Continue repeating the dc row until your width reaches Measurement C. Ensure your final row ends at the top edge of the cup.

Row 16 :

Mark the 8th st from the bottom. ch 2 and turn. dc in each st until you hit the marker. Remove marker and work 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, then 1 sc in the final 5 sts.

Row 17 :

ch 1 and turn. sc in the first 5 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the following st, then dc in every remaining st to the end.

Row 18-19 :

Repeat the shaping rows 16 and 17 until the width matches Measurement D. ch 1 and fasten off.

Info :

Repeat all steps in this section to create a second identical cup.

Assembly :

Place the cups with wrong sides facing you and join them at the center using sc. The number of sts depends on how much cleavage coverage you prefer.

— 2. Back Ties :

Row 1 :

With the wrong side facing, attach yarn to the bottom dc post of the 3rd row on the side of the cup. ch equal to Measurement E (underbust) plus 2. dc in 3rd ch from hook and across. sl st into the cup's dc post.

Row 2 :

sl st one post further up the cup and turn. dc in every st across the tie.

Row 3 :

ch 2 and turn. dc in every st across the tie. sl st into the cup and fasten off.

Info :

Repeat the tie process for the other side of the top.

Bottom Edge :

Attach yarn to the bottom corner of a tie. sc across the tie, then work 2 sc per dc post along the cup bottom, 1 sc in the center join, and continue across the other cup and tie.

— 3. The Body :

Info :

Wrap the top around you and tie it. Mark the dc next to the knot on both sides, ensuring you have an equal number of sts from the center join. The total count between markers must be a multiple of 2.

Row 1 :

Using the 3.0mm hook, join yarn at the first marker. ch 2 and dc in every st until you reach the second marker.

Row 2 :

ch 2 and turn. dc in the first st. *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * across.

Row 3 :

Switch to the 5.0mm hook. ch 2 and turn. Work a dc-V-st into every ch 1 sp across. Finish with a dc in the last st.

Row 4 :

ch 2 and turn. Work an Iris st into every ch 1 sp of the previous row's V-stitches. Finish with a dc in the last st.

Row 5-10 :

Repeat Row 4 until the peplum reaches your desired length. ch 1 and fasten off.

— 4. The Straps :

Info :

Mark a spot on the back ties exactly 1 inch away from where the body section begins.

Row 1 :

Join yarn at the top point of a cup. ch a length equal to Measurement Z in multiples of 3 plus 1. sl st into the back tie at your marker.

Row 2 :

sl st into the next 2 sts on the back tie and turn. dc in every ch across. When you reach the cup, work 2 dc per dc post down to the edge, then sl st to join.

Row 3 :

sl st across 2 sts and turn. dc in the first st. *ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in the next 2 sts*. Repeat from * to * across the strap. sl st to the back tie.

Row 4 :

Switch to the 5.0mm hook. sl st across 2 sts and turn. dc-V-st in each ch 1 sp until the last sp. In the last sp, work a hdc-V-st, then sl st to the cup.

Row 5 :

ch 1 and turn. sc in the first ch 1 sp. Work an Iris st in every remaining ch 1 sp across. Finish with a dc in the last st and sl st to the back tie.

Row 6 :

sl st across 2 sts and turn. Work an Iris st in every ch 1 sp across. sl st to the cup and fasten off.

Info :

Repeat the strap steps for the second side to finish your top.

Assembly Instructions

  • Use a single crochet join on the wrong side to connect the two finished cups at the center front for a seamless look.
  • Attach your yarn to the third row of the cup's side to begin the first back tie to ensure proper weight distribution.
  • Work a row of single crochet along the entire bottom edge of the cups and ties to create a clean, sturdy base for the body.
  • Mark the center of the underbust and count outwards to ensure your body section is perfectly centered on your torso.
  • Join the straps to the very top point of each cup with a firm slip stitch to prevent stretching over time.
  • Secure the other end of the straps to the back ties at the one-inch markers you placed earlier for a flattering silhouette.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always use the smaller hook for the cups to ensure the fabric is dense enough for good coverage and support.
  • 💡The starting chain for each row does not count as a stitch, so avoid working into it at the end of your rows.
  • 💡If you have a fuller bust, consider adding an extra row or two to the back ties for better support and comfort.
  • 💡Check your stitch count for the body section frequently; it needs to be a multiple of two for the lace pattern to align.
  • 💡Block your finished top to really open up those Iris stitches and let the lace peplum drape beautifully on your body.

I am so proud of you for finishing your Hyacinth Top! There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing something you made with your own two hands that actually fits your unique shape. This piece is such a showstopper, and I know you are going to get so many questions about where you 'bought' it. Don't forget to weave in those ends securely so your hard work lasts for years to come. Happy wearing! 🧶 ✨

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FAQs

Can I use cotton yarn instead of acrylic for this top?

Absolutely! Cotton or a cotton blend would be fantastic for summer. Just keep in mind that cotton has less 'give' than acrylic, so be extra careful with your measurements and maybe add a tiny bit of ease.

What should I do if my cups feel too small?

Since this is made-to-measure, you can simply add more rows of double crochet to the width (Measurement C) before starting the top shaping to get the coverage you need.

The straps feel a bit loose, how can I fix them?

If the straps feel long, you can either shorten the initial chain (Measurement Z) or work a row of slip stitches along the inner edge of the strap to cinch it slightly.

Do I have to use two different hook sizes?

You don't have to, but I highly recommend it. The smaller hook keeps the bodice secure, while the larger hook gives the peplum that beautiful, airy lace drape that makes this pattern special.