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Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern

Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
1.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern

Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This handmade Pokémon is the ultimate gift for gamers and 90s kids alike. It sits perfectly on a shelf thanks to its specially shaped feet, making it a great addition to any collection or a cozy desk buddy.

Why You'll Love This Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern

I honestly love how this pattern tackles the hair poof! Instead of just making a separate ball, the use of partial rows creates a beautiful curve that fits the head perfectly. It’s one of those 'aha!' moments in crochet that makes the whole process so satisfying to finish.

Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

Crocheting Jigglypuff is like taking a trip down memory lane! I remember seeing this character for the first time and thinking how perfect she would be as a plushie. The round shape is classic amigurumi, but the hair poof is where the real magic happens. It’s definitely the most challenging part of the pattern, but don't let it intimidate you. Just take it row by row.

I found that using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label suggests really helps keep the stitches tight, which is crucial for a piece this round. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will try to escape, and Jigglypuff might lose her smooth silhouette. Also, when you're joining the ear pieces, if you see the black yarn showing through the pink, don't panic! Just take a scrap of pink yarn and 'embroider' over those spots. It’s a quick fix that makes a world of difference in the final look. I can't wait to see your versions — maybe even a green-eyed shiny one?

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When working the partial rows on the arms, ensure you start exactly in the second stitch as noted; skipping this will mess up the thumb-like protrusion.✗ The poof requires starting a fresh yarn strand for every row from Step 20 onwards to keep the stitch texture consistent, so don't be tempted to just turn your work.✗ If you crochet the bottom edges of the ear triangles together, they won't sit flat against the head, so make sure to leave that bottom foundation chain edge open.✗ It is easy to overstuff the feet, which can round out the bottom; keep the stuffing light near the base so you can maintain the flat surface needed for Jigglypuff to sit.

Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern

Get ready to bring the most iconic singing Pokémon to life with your crochet hook! This Jigglypuff amigurumi captures that perfectly round, huggable shape we all know and love. It’s a wonderful project for anyone who wants to practice shaping and layered assembly, resulting in a plushie that looks like it stepped right out of the screen and into your home.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Jigglypuff Pokémon Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately one skein of pink medium weight yarn for the main body and ears
  • 02
    Small amount of black medium weight yarn for the inner ear contrast
  • 03
    White medium weight yarn for the eye sclera and the small highlights
  • 04
    Teal or dark turquoise medium weight yarn for the irises

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5.5 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    High-quality polyester fiberfill for a firm shape
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces together and hiding ends
  • 04
    Sharp scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers to track the start of your rounds

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Main Body :

Round 1 :

Start with 6 sc into a mr (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc into every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) five times, then finish with 2 inc (19)

Round 4 :

Repeat (1 inc, 2 sc) six times, then add 1 sc (25)

Round 5 :

1 sc, then repeat (1 inc, 3 sc) six times (31)

Round 6 :

3 sc, then repeat (1 inc, 4 sc) five times, 1 inc, 2 sc (37)

Round 7 :

6 sc, then repeat (1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc) twice, 1 inc (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (6 sc, 1 inc) five times, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

5 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (8 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc) twice, 4 sc (53)

Round 10 :

8 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (9 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc) twice, 2 sc (58)

Round 11 :

3 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (10 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc) twice, 8 sc (63)

Round 12 :

Repeat (12 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc) twice, 12 sc, 1 inc (68)

Round 13 :

6 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (16 sc, 1 inc) three times, 10 sc (72)

Round 14 :

11 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (17 sc, 1 inc) three times, 6 sc (76)

Round 15 :

3 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (24 sc, 1 inc) twice, 22 sc (79)

Round 16 :

18 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (25 sc, 1 inc) twice, 8 sc (82)

Round 17 :

6 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (26 sc, 1 inc) twice, 21 sc (85)

Round 18 :

14 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (27 sc, 1 inc) twice, 14 sc (88)

Round 19 :

Repeat (43 sc, 1 inc) twice (90)

Round 20 :

20 sc, 1 inc, 69 sc (91)

Round 21 :

3 sc, 1 inc, 44 sc, 1 inc, 42 sc (93)

Round 22 :

92 sc, 1 inc (94)

Round 23-25 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (94)

Round 26 :

1 dec, 92 sc (93)

Round 27 :

42 sc, 1 dec, 44 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (91)

Round 28 :

69 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc (90)

Round 29 :

Repeat (1 dec, 43 sc) twice (88)

Round 30 :

14 sc, repeat (1 dec, 27 sc) twice, 1 dec, 14 sc (85)

Round 31 :

21 sc, repeat (1 dec, 26 sc) twice, 1 dec, 6 sc (82)

Round 32 :

8 sc, repeat (1 dec, 25 sc) twice, 1 dec, 18 sc (79)

Round 33 :

22 sc, repeat (1 dec, 24 sc) twice, 1 dec, 3 sc (76)

Round 34 :

6 sc, repeat (1 dec, 17 sc) three times, 1 dec, 11 sc (72)

Round 35 :

10 sc, repeat (1 dec, 16 sc) three times, 1 dec, 6 sc (68)

Round 36 :

1 dec, 12 sc, repeat (1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc) twice (63)

Round 37 :

8 sc, repeat (1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc) twice, 1 dec, 3 sc (58)

Round 38 :

2 sc, repeat (1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc) twice, 1 dec, 8 sc (53)

Round 39 :

4 sc, repeat (1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc) twice, 1 dec, 5 sc (48)

Round 40 :

3 sc, repeat (1 dec, 6 sc) five times, 1 dec, 3 sc (42)

Round 41 :

1 dec, repeat (6 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec) twice, 6 sc (37)

Round 42 :

2 sc, 1 dec, repeat (4 sc, 1 dec) five times, 3 sc (31)

Round 43 :

Repeat (3 sc, 1 dec) six times, 1 sc (25)

Round 44 :

1 sc, repeat (2 sc, 1 dec) six times (19)

Round 45 :

1 dec, 1 dec, repeat (1 sc, 1 dec) five times (12)

Round 46 :

Work 6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off, stuff firmly with Poly-fil, and sew the remaining gap closed.

— 2. Eye Components :

Sclera Round 1 :

Using white, work 6 sc in a mr (6)

Sclera Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st (12)

Sclera Round 3 :

Repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) six times (18)

Sclera Round 4 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc) six times (24)

Sclera Round 5 :

Repeat (3 sc, 1 inc) six times (30)

Iris Round 1 :

Using teal, work 6 sc in a mr (6)

Iris Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st (12)

Iris Round 3 :

Repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) six times (18)

Iris Round 4 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc) six times (24)

Highlight :

Using white, work 6 sc in a mr and fasten off (6)

Info :

Make two of each component for a total of six circles.

— 3. Ears :

Inner Row 1 :

Using black, ch 7 (6)

Inner Row 2 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 5 sc, ch 1, turn (6)

Inner Row 3 :

1 dec, 4 sc, ch 1, turn (5)

Inner Row 4 :

1 dec, 3 sc, ch 1, turn (4)

Inner Row 5 :

1 dec, 2 sc (3)

Outer Row 1 :

Using pink, ch 13 (12)

Outer Row 2 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 11 sc, ch 1, turn (12)

Outer Row 3 :

1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, ch 1, turn (9)

Outer Row 4 :

1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, ch 1, turn (6)

Outer Row 5 :

Work 3 dec (3)

Info :

Make two inner and two outer pieces. To join, place black over pink and sc through both along the side edges. Leave the bottom open.

— 4. Feet :

Round 1 :

Work 7 sc in a mr (7)

Round 2 :

1 inc, then repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) three times (11)

Round 3 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (14)

Round 4 :

1 inc, 13 sc (15)

Round 5 :

8 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (17)

Round 6 :

Work 17 sc (17)

Round 7 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (17)

Round 8 :

Work 17 sc (17)

Round 9 :

1 dec, 9 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (17)

Round 10 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (16)

Round 11 :

12 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (15)

Round 12 :

4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (13)

Round 13 :

1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (11)

Round 14 :

Work 4 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (6)

Info :

Make two. Stuff lightly and close the gap.

— 5. Arms :

Round 1 :

Work 5 sc in a mr (5)

Round 2 :

Repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) twice, then 1 inc (8)

Round 3 :

3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (9)

Partial Row 4 :

pr 2: 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (7)

Partial Row 5 :

pr 2: 5 sc (5)

Partial Row 6 :

pr 2: 3 sc (3)

Step 7 :

Work a clean edge of 10 sc around the entire opening (10)

Info :

Make two. Stuff with Poly-fil before attaching.

— 6. Hair Poof :

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc in a mr (6)

Round 2 :

Repeat (1 inc) five times, then 1 sc (11)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 sc, 1 inc) three times, 1 sc, 1 inc (15)

Round 4 :

3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (17)

Round 5 :

8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (16)

Round 6 :

1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (13)

Round 7 :

1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec (8)

Partial Row 8 :

pr 3: 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc (6)

Round 9 :

Work 10 sc (10)

Partial Row 10 :

pr 4: 5 sc (5)

Round 11 :

Work 10 sc (10)

Round 12 :

4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (11)

Round 13 :

1 inc, 10 sc (12)

Partial Row 14 :

pr 6: 6 sc (6)

Round 15 :

3 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc (14)

Partial Row 16 :

pr 7: 7 sc (7)

Round 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (16)

Round 18 :

6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (18)

Round 19 :

3 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (20)

New Strand 20 :

pr 3: 18 sc (18)

New Strand 21 :

pr 1: 8 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc (19)

New Strand 22 :

pr 1: 4 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc (20)

New Strand 23-25 :

pr 1: 20 sc (20)

New Strand 26 :

pr 1: 8 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (19)

New Strand 27 :

pr 1: 12 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (18)

New Strand 28 :

pr 1: 5 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (17)

New Strand 29 :

pr 1: 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (15)

New Strand 30 :

pr 1: 6 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (14)

New Strand 31 :

pr 1: 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (13)

New Strand 32 :

pr 1: 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (11)

New Strand 33 :

pr 1: 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (10)

New Strand 34 :

pr 1: 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (8)

Step 35 :

Work a clean sc edge around the unfinished opening and fasten off.

Assembly Instructions

  • Stack the eye circles: place the teal iris onto the center of the large white sclera, then place the small white highlight onto the iris. Stitch these layers together and sew the completed eyes onto the face.
  • Sew the black inner ear to the pink outer ear along the two angled sides using pink yarn, keeping the bottom foundation edge open. If black stitches peek through, weave pink yarn over them to hide the color.
  • Stuff the ears lightly and attach them to the top of the head, ensuring they are spaced evenly above the eyes.
  • Position the feet on the lower half of the body. Angle them so the flatter section of the foot is facing the ground, allowing Jigglypuff to sit upright.
  • Pinch the hair poof in the center using a small length of yarn and tie it tightly to create the iconic 'curl' shape. Repeat this for the back of the poof to close the end stitches.
  • Stuff the hair poof and sew it to the top center of the head, between the ears, making sure to tuck the raw edges underneath for a clean look.
  • Attach the arms to the sides of the body, just below the level of the eyes, positioning them so they point slightly forward.

Important Notes

  • 💡To ensure your Jigglypuff looks like the real thing, use a tight tension so the stuffing doesn't show through the stitches.
  • 💡The hair poof is the trickiest part; take your time with the partial rows and always start a new strand where indicated to maintain the right texture.
  • 💡When assembly is finished, use a yarn needle to hide all your tails deep inside the body for a professional finish.
  • 💡You can customize the expression by slightly tilting the eyes or changing the height of the ears.
  • 💡If you want a 'Shiny' Jigglypuff, swap the teal yarn for a bright green and the pink for a lighter, pastel shade.

You've done it! Your very own Jigglypuff is ready to take center stage. This pattern is such a fun way to play with amigurumi architecture, especially that curly hair poof. I hope you enjoyed the process as much as I do. Whether she's sitting on your shelf or being gifted to a fellow trainer, she's sure to bring a smile to anyone's face. Don't forget to share your photos — I'd love to see your finished creation! Happy crafting! 🧶 ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Why does the poof use so many partial rows?

The partial rows are designed to create a specific curvature that mimics the 3D curl of Jigglypuff's hair. By starting a new strand each time, you ensure the 'right side' of the stitches always faces out, keeping the texture consistent with the rest of the body.

How do I make sure the feet are flat enough to stand?

When you reach the end of the foot pattern, press the bottom against a flat surface before you finish sewing it shut. Use only a small amount of stuffing in the very bottom to allow it to compress slightly.

Can I use safety eyes instead of crocheted ones?

You certainly can, but you'll lose that iconic layered look. If you choose safety eyes, I recommend using very large ones (20mm or larger) and perhaps adding a felt backing to represent the iris.

What does 'pr x' mean in the instructions?

It stands for 'Partial Row' starting at stitch 'x'. Instead of starting at the beginning of the round, you skip ahead to the specified stitch number and begin your work there.