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Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern

Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern
4.5★Rating
3-5 HoursTime Needed
2.7KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Quick Craft

Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern

Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This square is the perfect building block for a show-stopping textured blanket. It's also beautiful enough to be framed or used as a decorative pillow front for your favorite reading chair.

Why You'll Love This Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern

I honestly couldn't put my hook down once I started the petals! There’s something so satisfying about the way the back-stitch and long stitches anchor the layers together. It feels more like sculpting than just crocheting, and the result is just so sophisticated and professional.

Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern step 1 Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern step 2 Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern step 3 Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I love how every crochet project tells a story, and the Macey Ann Square is such a beautiful example of that. It was designed as part of a legacy series for the designer's grandchildren, and you can really feel that warmth and intention in every stitch. When I first sat down with this pattern, I was immediately drawn to the way the central flower seems to bloom right off the hook. It’s not just a flat piece of fabric; it’s a tiny piece of art.

Working through the petals in Round 3 is where the magic really starts. If you’re like me, you might get a little nervous when you see stitches like the triple treble or the back-stitch, but I promise they are so much fun once you get into the rhythm. The back-stitch technique, in particular, was a total game-changer for me. It creates these gorgeous, defined lines that make the square look so professional. If you’re looking to push your skills just a little bit further, this is the perfect project to do it. Plus, seeing all those colors come together in the final rounds is the best kind of creative reward!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ In Round 3, the petals can hide the single crochet you need to slip stitch into — make sure to pull the petal forward to find that stitch so your count stays even.✗ When working the long dc and long tr in the later rounds, pulling the loops too tight will cause the square to pucker; keep your tension loose and pull the loop up to the height of the current round.✗ The back-stitch technique requires you to fold your work forward — if you miss the specific v of the stitch from the round below, the textured lines on the front won't align properly.✗ Forgetting to skip the correct number of stitches after a front post or long stitch is common here; always double-check the skip instructions to avoid an accidental ruffling effect.

Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern

This gorgeous textured square is all about layers and floral details. Inspired by a love for things pretty and sparkly, it features a blooming center that really pops off the fabric. Whether you're building a heirloom blanket or just want a stunning standalone piece, this square brings a touch of elegance to your hook. You'll love seeing the petals take shape as you work through the unique post stitches and clusters that give this design its signature 3D look.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Macey Ann Floral Crochet Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn in six coordinating colors
  • 02
    Approximately 100-150 yards total depending on the size version chosen
  • 03
    Color A: Yellow for the flower center
  • 04
    Colors B through F: A mix of pinks, purples, greens, and ivory for the petals and border

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Stitch markers to help keep track of corners and repeats
  • 03
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Central Floral Motif :

Round 1 :

Start with a double magic circle and ch 5 (this counts as your first dc and a ch-2 sp), then dc into the ring; work [ch 2, dc] 6 more times, then ch 2; finish with an invisible join into the 4th ch (8 dc, 8 ch-2 sp).

Round 2 :

Join your new color in any ch-2 sp and work (sc, ch 4, sc) in every ch-2 sp around; finish with an invisible join (16 sc, 8 ch-4 sp).

Round 3 :

Starting in any ch-4 sp, work *(sc, 3 hdc, dc, tr, picot, tr, dc, 3 hdc, sc) all in the ch-4 sp, then sk the next sc and slst into the following sc; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (16 sc, 48 hdc, 16 dc, 16 tr, 8 picot, 8 slst).

Round 4 :

Starting in a slst between petals and working in the BL only, work *trtr into the slst from Round 2, ch 4, (sc, ch 1, sc) in the top of the picot, then ch 4; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (16 sc, 8 trtr, 16 ch-4 sp, 8 ch-1 sp).

Round 5 :

In any ch-1 sp, work *(sc, ch 2, sc) to create a new corner; ch 4, sk the next sc and ch-4 sp, work a PC in the trtr, ch 4, sk the next ch-4 sp and sc; sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 4, sk the next sc and ch-4 sp, work a PC in the trtr, ch 4, sk the next ch-4 sp and sc; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (12 sc, 8 PC, 16 ch-4 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Round 6 :

In any corner ch-2 sp, work *(dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc), then sk the next sc; in the next ch-4 sp of Round 5, work a 2dc-cluster, then work a long dc around both the Round 4 and Round 5 ch-4 spaces together, then work another 2dc-cluster in that same Round 5 ch-4 sp; work a FPhdc around the next PC; hdc in the next ch-4 sp; work a long hdc around the ch-4 spaces of Rounds 4 and 5 together; sc in the ch-4 sp from Round 5; work a FPsc around the next sc; sc in the Round 5 ch-4 sp; work a long hdc around the Round 4 and 5 ch-4 spaces; hdc in the ch-4 sp; FPhdc around the next PC; in the next ch-4 sp of Round 5, work a 2dc-cluster, a long dc around the Round 4 and 5 ch-4 spaces, and another 2dc-cluster in the Round 5 ch-4 sp, then sk the next sc; repeat from * around (16 dc, 16 2dc-cluster, 8 FPhdc, 8 long dc, 8 long hdc, 8 hdc, 8 sc, 4 FPsc, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Round 7 :

Starting in any corner ch-2 sp, work *(sc, ch 2, sc), then sc in every st and ch-1 sp across to the next corner; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (92 sc, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

— 2. Mini Square Finishing :

Round 8 :

In any corner ch-2 sp, work *(sc, ch 2, sc), then sc in the next st; work [sc back-stitch in the Round 6 st directly below, sc in the next Round 7 st] 11 times; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (56 sc, 44 sc back-stitch, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

— 3. Large Square Extension :

Info :

These steps continue from Round 7 of the central motif for those making the larger 11-inch version.

Round 8a :

In any corner ch-2 sp, work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), then long tr in the Round 5 corner sp, FPdc around the next Round 6 dc, sk 2 sc from Round 7, long dc over the next sc and into the Round 6 ch-1 sp, sc in the next st; working in BL, BLsc in the next 15 sts; sc in the next st, long dc over the next sc and into the Round 6 ch-1 sp, sk 2 sc from Round 7, FPdc around the next Round 6 dc, and long tr in the Round 5 corner sp; repeat from * around (8 sc, 60 BLsc, 16 dc, 8 FPdc, 8 long dc, 8 long tr, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Round 9 :

Working over the Round 8a corner and into the Round 6 corner, work *3 dtr in the Round 6 corner; ch 1, sk the next dc, BLhdc in the next 4 sts, BLsc in the next 17 sts, BLhdc in the next 4 sts, sk the next dc, and ch 1; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (12 dtr, 32 BLhdc, 68 BLsc, 8 ch-1 sp).

Round 10 :

Starting in the ch-1 sp after any dtr group, work *sc in the ch-1 sp, [ch 3, sk the next st, sc in the following st] 12 times; ch 3, sk the next st, sc in the ch-1 sp, then ch 4; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join (56 sc, 52 ch-3 sp, 4 ch-4 corner sp).

Round 11 :

Working behind the ch-4 corner, start in the 2nd dtr of any 3-dtr group from Round 9 and work *(tr, ch 2, tr) in that dtr; working behind the ch-4 sp, 2 dc in the next dtr, sk the sc; [sc in the next ch-3 sp, sk the next st, ch 1] 12 times; sc in the next ch-3 sp, sk the next sc; working behind the ch-4 corner, 2 dc in the next dtr; repeat from * around (8 tr, 16 dc, 52 sc, 48 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Round 12 :

In any corner ch-2 sp, work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), dc in the next 3 sts; [dc back-stitch in the Round 10 ch-3 sp directly below, dc in the next ch-1 sp] 12 times; dc back-stitch in the final Round 10 ch-3 sp directly below, then dc in the next 3 sts; repeat from * around (88 dc, 52 dc back-stitch, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Round 13 :

In any corner ch-2 sp, work *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), then BLdc in every st across to the next corner; repeat from * around; finish with an invisible join and weave in all ends (16 dc, 140 BLdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp).

Assembly Instructions

  • Begin by working the central floral motif using the double magic circle for a secure start.
  • Work the petals in Round 3, ensuring you place the picots at the very tip of each petal to give them a pointed look.
  • When starting Round 4, anchor your triple treble stitches into the slip stitches from Round 2 to create the background layer for the flower.
  • Carefully follow the instructions for Rounds 6 and 8a which involve working into multiple previous rounds simultaneously to create depth.
  • If making the large version, continue through Round 13, maintaining consistent tension on the back-stitch details to prevent puckering.
  • Finish by weaving in all yarn ends securely on the back of the square with a darning needle.
  • Wet block or steam block your finished square to exactly 11 inches to open up the lace and define the textured stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
  • 💡Every round starts with a standing stitch and ends with an invisible join unless you prefer using standard chain starts.
  • 💡Stitch counts at the end of rounds include chain spaces, but corner chain spaces are usually excluded from the side counts.
  • 💡The back-stitch is worked by identifying a stitch from a previous round, folding the work, and inserting the hook vertically.
  • 💡Blocking is highly recommended for this project to ensure the square lies flat and reaches the intended 11-inch size.
  • 💡When working long stitches, pull the loop up to the height of the current round to avoid pulling the fabric tight.

I hope you enjoy every stitch of this Macey Ann square as much as I did! There’s something so special about creating a piece with this much heart and history behind it. Whether you’re making a single square to test your skills or a whole garden of them for a blanket, the texture is sure to impress. Don't forget to take a moment to admire those petals once you finish Round 3—they’re my favorite part! The way they layer over the background really gives the piece its personality. Happy hooking, and I can't wait to see your color choices. 🧶✨

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FAQs

What is a double magic circle and can I use a regular one?

A double magic circle is just like a standard one but you wrap the yarn twice around your fingers. It’s much more secure for textured squares that might be handled or washed often, but a standard magic ring works if you weave the tail in very well.

How do I do the back-stitch mentioned in Round 8 and 12?

It's a unique technique where you find the stitch in the round below, fold your current work toward you, and insert the hook vertically into the v of that lower stitch. It creates a beautiful anchored texture on the surface.

My square is curling at the corners, what should I do?

Texture-heavy squares often curl while in progress. First, check that you aren't pulling your post stitches too tight. If the counts are correct, a good blocking session at the end will usually solve any minor curling issues.

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?

Absolutely! While the sample uses cotton for crisp stitch definition, a high-quality acrylic will work beautifully. Just be careful if you choose to steam block it, as acrylic can melt or lose its shape if the iron is held too close.