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Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
1.3KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern

Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

These dolls look stunning on a bookshelf or mantelpiece, bringing a touch of art history to your home decor. They're also sturdy enough to be played with, making them a wonderful heirloom gift for a special child.

Why You'll Love This Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern

I honestly couldn't stop once I started the skirt—the way it builds up into that classic bell shape is so satisfying. I love that there's a bit of structural work involved with the cardboard base; it makes the finished doll feel so professional and stable when it stands up.

Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I’ve always been fascinated by the 'Las Meninas' painting, so finding a way to translate that iconic silhouette into crochet was such a fun challenge. The secret to this pattern is all in the structure—don’t be tempted to skip the cardboard base or the internal support stick! They really make the difference between a floppy toy and a piece of art that stands tall and proud.

When it comes to colors, I think this is where you can really let your personality shine. While the traditional muted tones are beautiful, I’ve seen some makers use vibrant jewel tones or even variegated yarns for the overskirt, and the results are absolutely breathtaking. If you’re feeling extra creative, try adding some tiny gold beads or embroidery to the lace sections for that extra bit of royal sparkle. I found that using a slightly tighter tension for the skirt helps keep the shape crisp, especially once you add the stuffing. Just take your time with the assembly, use plenty of pins, and enjoy the process of bringing these little ladies to life!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Forgetting to switch to the back loops on Round 9 of the skirt will hide the ridge you need for attaching the base later.✗ If you don't pull the magic ring tight enough on the hair piece, you might see the flesh color of the head peeking through the top.✗ When joining the arms to the body at Round 14, make sure they are perfectly centered on the sides, or your Menina will look a bit lopsided.✗ Skipping the light ironing on the dress base can make it curl up, which makes it much harder to glue onto the cardboard support.

Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern

You're going to love bringing a piece of classical art to life with these elegant Menina dolls! Inspired by the famous "Ladies in Waiting," these little figures have such a unique, voluminous shape that's a joy to crochet. Whether you're making a single doll or a whole royal court, they make the most sophisticated handmade gifts.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Menina Doll Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Schachenmayr Organic Cotton (50g/155m) in a flesh tone for the skin
  • 02
    Black or brown yarn for the hair
  • 03
    Three contrasting colors of your choice for the dress, sleeves, and overskirt
  • 04
    Small amount of white yarn for the lace and collar details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
  • 03
    A sturdy piece of cardboard for the base
  • 04
    A wooden skewer or stick for internal support
  • 05
    Darning needle for sewing pieces together
  • 06
    Craft glue to secure the base
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Pins for positioning

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Start with flesh yarn and work 4 sc into a magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every stitch around (8)

Round 3-21 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 8 stitches (8)

Info :

Fasten off and set aside for assembly later.

— 2. Main Body :

Round 1 :

Using your chosen dress color, ch 28 and join with a sl st to form a loop (28)

Round 1-12 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 28 stitches (28)

Info :

Cut the yarn and weave in your ends.

Round 13 :

Attach flesh yarn to the top of the last row and work 28 sl st around (28)

Round 14 :

Working in the sc blo of the previous row: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, then work 6 sc around the top of the first arm. Continue on the body with 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc. Work 6 sc around the second arm. Finish the body row with 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (36)

Note :

Use the yarn tails from the arms to sew any small gaps closed where the arms meet the body.

Round 15 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 17 :

1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (16)

Round 18 :

1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (12)

Round 19-21 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 12 stitches (12)

— 3. Head :

Round 1 :

Work 1 inc in every stitch around (24)

Round 2 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 3 :

(1 inc, 4 sc) repeat 6 times (36)

Round 4 :

2 sc, 1 inc, (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 5 times, 3 sc (42)

Round 5 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 6-14 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 48 stitches (48)

Round 15 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 16 :

2 sc, 1 dec, (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 5 times, 3 sc (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 19 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (18)

Info :

Stuff the head firmly before continuing.

Round 20 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times (12)

Info :

Finish stuffing the head completely.

Round 21 :

Work 6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off and sew the bottom of the body closed.

— 4. Skirt :

Round 1 :

Using a new color, ch 30 and join with a sl st. Work 30 sc (30)

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 30 stitches (30)

Round 3 :

5 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc, 6 inc, 4 sc (42)

Round 4 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (50)

Round 5 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (58)

Round 6 :

7 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (66)

Round 7 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 21 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc (74)

Round 8 :

14 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc (82)

Round 9 :

Work 82 sc blo around (82)

Round 10-35 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 82 stitches (82)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Trace the skirt base onto cardboard for your structural support.

— 5. Overskirt :

Row 1 :

Ch 32. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 31 sc. Ch 1 and turn (31)

Row 2 :

Work 31 sc. Ch 1 and turn (31)

Row 3 :

5 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc, 6 inc, 5 sc. Ch 1 and turn (43)

Row 4 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc. Ch 1 and turn (51)

Row 5 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc. Ch 1 and turn (59)

Row 6 :

7 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc. Ch 1 and turn (67)

Row 7 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 11 sc. Ch 1 and turn (71)

Row 8 :

14 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc. Ch 1 and turn (75)

Row 9-11 :

Skip the first stitch, then work 1 sc in every stitch until the end. Finish with a sl st (72)

Info :

Work a row of crab stitch along the edge for a decorative finish.

— 6. Dress Base :

Round 1 :

In a magic circle, work 6 inc (12)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (18)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 5 :

5 sc, 6 inc, 9 sc, 6 inc, 4 sc (42)

Round 6 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (50)

Round 7 :

5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (58)

Round 8 :

7 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (66)

Round 9 :

11 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 21 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc (74)

Round 10 :

14 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc (82)

Round 11 :

10 sc, 4 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 3 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 7 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 3 hdc, 1 inc (sc), 20 sc, 1 inc (sc), 3 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 7 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 3 hdc, 1 inc (hdc), 4 hdc, 10 sc (90)

Round 12 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 90 stitches (90)

— 7. Hair :

Round 1 :

In a magic circle, work 6 inc. Sl st, ch 1 and turn (12)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (18)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 4 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 5 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (36)

Round 6 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 7 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 8 :

10 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) repeat 6 times, 11 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) repeat 6 times, 3 sc (60)

Row 9 :

Work 54 sc. Leave the remaining 6 stitches unworked to form the fringe area (54)

Row 10 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 50 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (56)

Row 11 :

Work 56 sc (56)

Row 12 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 52 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (58)

Row 13 :

Work 58 sc (58)

Row 14 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 48 sc, 1 sl st. Turn (leaving 7 stitches unworked)

Row 15 :

Skip the first sl st, work 42 sc, 1 sl st. Turn (leaving 8 stitches unworked)

Row 16 :

Skip the first sl st, work 48 sc. Now work into the sl st from Row 14: 1 inc, 1 sc

Row 17 :

Work 60 sc, including the sl st skipped in the previous row

Row 18 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 48 sc, 1 sl st. Turn (leaving 9 stitches unworked)

Row 19 :

Skip the first sl st, work 40 sc, 1 sl st. Turn (leaving 10 stitches unworked)

Row 20 :

Skip the first sl st, work 48 sc. Now work into the sl st from Row 18: 1 inc, 1 sc

Row 21 :

Work 62 sc, including the sl st skipped in the previous row

Row 22 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 58 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (64)

Row 23 :

Work 64 sc (64)

Note :

In the following rows, the term 'double decrease' refers to sc3tog.

Row 24 :

3 sc3tog, (2 sc, 1 dec) repeat 11 times, 2 sc, 3 sc3tog (41)

Row 25 :

1 sc3tog, (1 sc, 1 dec) repeat 11 times, 2 sc, 1 sc3tog

— 8. Sleeve Type A :

Round 1 :

Ch 10 and join with a sl st. Work 10 sc (10)

Round 2 :

Work 10 inc (20)

Round 3-4 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 20 stitches (20)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) repeat 4 times (16)

Round 6 :

Work 16 sc (16)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) repeat 4 times (12)

Round 8-20 :

Work 1 sc in each of the 12 stitches (12)

— 9. Collar & Bows Type A :

Neckline Lace :

Ch 35. Row 1: 35 sl st. Row 2: 35 sc. Row 3: (1 sc, 1 dc, 1 sc in same stitch, 1 sl st in next) repeat to end.

Neckline Edge :

Using sl st to position at the starting chain: *ch 3, skip 1 ch, sl st in next* repeat to end.

Bow :

Ch 10 (last 3 count as 1 dc). Work 5 rows of 7 dc each. Wrap yarn around center to shape.

— 10. Sleeve Type B :

Ribbing :

Ch 16. Row 1: 15 sc, ch 1, turn. Row 2: 15 sc flo, ch 1, turn. Row 3: 15 sc blo, ch 1, turn. Repeat Rows 2-3 eighteen times.

Cuff Edge :

Along one long side, work 20 sc and 1 sl st. Join into a circle with 1 sc into the first sl st.

Cuff Shaping :

Work 20 sc around. Next row: 10 dec. Then work 5 rows of 10 sc each.

— 11. Collar Type B :

Row 1 :

Ch 39. Work 38 sc starting in 2nd ch. Ch 1, turn (38)

Row 2 :

12 sc, 3 sc in next st, 12 sc, 3 sc in next st, 12 sc (42)

Row 3 :

Work 42 sc (42)

Row 4 :

13 sc, 3 sc in next st, 14 sc, 3 sc in next st, 13 sc (46)

Row 5 :

Work 46 sc (46)

— 12. Flower Accessory :

Row 1 :

Ch 15. *Skip 1 ch, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) all in the next ch* repeat 7 times.

Info :

Roll the petals up and secure with a few stitches at the back.

Assembly Instructions

  • Start by inserting the wooden stick through the body and into the head to provide a sturdy spine for your doll.
  • Slide the sleeves over the arms and sew them securely at the shoulder level on Round 14 of the body.
  • Wrap the skirt around the lower body and use pins to hold it in place before sewing it around the waistline.
  • Layer the overskirt on top of the main skirt, centering the opening at the front or back as you prefer, then stitch it down.
  • Take your cardboard circle and glue it to the crocheted dress base, then slip stitch the base to the bottom edge of the skirt.
  • Position the hair piece over the head, ensuring the fringe is centered, and sew it down with small, hidden stitches.
  • Finish by attaching your chosen accessories, like the bows or flowers, to the hair and the neckline for that royal touch.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a wooden skewer or internal stick to help the doll stand upright and support the weight of the head.
  • 💡The cardboard base is essential for stability; make sure it is cut slightly smaller than the crocheted base for a clean fit.
  • 💡When working the hair, pay close attention to the short-row turns to ensure the shape frames the face correctly.
  • 💡You can customize the look by choosing between the Type A lace collar or the Type B structured collar.
  • 💡Stuff the body and skirt firmly, but be careful not to overstretch the stitches around the base join.

I can't wait to see the beautiful royal court you create with this pattern! There is something so magical about seeing these dolls come together, from the wide skirts to the tiny floral details. Whether you stick to the classic styles or experiment with your own favorite color palettes, I hope you enjoy every single stitch. Happy crocheting, and may your finished Meninas bring a little bit of artistic elegance to your home! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What kind of cardboard should I use for the base?

A thick corrugated cardboard or a piece of plastic from a container lid works best. It needs to be stiff enough to support the doll's weight without bending.

Can I make these with a larger hook and thicker yarn?

Yes, but your doll will turn out significantly larger. Ensure you adjust the size of the internal support stick and the cardboard base accordingly.

How do I make the hair sit flat against the head?

Use plenty of pins to position the hair first. Sew along the edges and also through the top magic ring to keep it from sliding or lifting.

Is the wooden stick safe for children's toys?

If making this as a toy for a young child, I recommend replacing the wooden stick with a tightly rolled piece of plastic canvas or a very firm foam cylinder for safety.