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Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★Rating
10-12 HoursTime Needed
4.0KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Style her, pose her, and fall in love with every tiny detail! This doll is an heirloom-quality project that showcases the incredible artistry of high-end handmade amigurumi.

Why You'll Love This Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

I honestly think the best part of this pattern is seeing Mimosa's personality emerge through the eye embroidery. It’s so much more rewarding than just popping in safety eyes! Plus, the hair transplant technique creates such a lush, styleable mane that makes her feel like a real little character. You'll feel like a true artist by the time she's finished.

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I remember the first time I tried to embroider eyes instead of using safety eyes—it was a total game-changer for my dolls! Mimosa is the perfect example of why that extra effort is so worth it. Her gaze has so much depth and personality. When I was designing her wardrobe, I wanted something that felt modern but still had that whimsical 'cat-lady' charm, which is how the little hat came to be.

Working with wire can be a bit fiddly at first, but don't let it intimidate you. It gives the body such a professional structure, especially in the neck and arms. My biggest tip for this pattern is to take your time with the hair. It is a labor of love, but once you style those long strands, she really comes into her own. I chose these specific colors because they feel cozy yet vibrant, but she would look just as sweet in autumnal oranges or spring pastels. I can't wait to see the unique spin you put on your own Mimosa Baby! Happy hooking, friends!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the legs at Body Round 1, if your chains are too loose, you will end up with a gap between the thighs; keep those joining chains very tight.✗ The wire for the neck needs to be exactly 35cm and folded double; if it is too short, the head will wobble, and if it is too long, it might poke through the stuffing.✗ During the hair transplant, don't skip more than two rows in the 'empty parts' or she will have visible bald patches when you try to style her hair.✗ For the shoes, the tongue must be perfectly centered; if your tension shifts it to the side, adjust the starting point of Round 12 so it aligns with the toe.

Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

Meet Mimosa, a stylish and sophisticated amigurumi doll that brings a touch of modern fashion to the world of crochet. You will absolutely love the process of building her entire look, from her poseable wire-framed body to her adorable cat-themed accessories. She stands at an impressive 35cm, making her a standout piece for any collection or a truly special handmade gift for someone you love. This project is a wonderful journey through various techniques that will keep you engaged from the first stitch to the final assembly.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Mimosa Baby Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Two skeins of Peria Baby Soft Cotton in skin tone (Color 17)
  • 02
    One skein of Peria Baby Soft Cotton in white (Color 13)
  • 03
    One skein of Schachenmayr Catania in green (Color 419) for the shoes
  • 04
    One skein of Schachenmayr Catania in purple (Color 240) for the dress
  • 05
    One skein of Gazzal Baby Cotton in lilac (Color 3422) for the hat
  • 06
    One skein of Alize Diva (Color 55) for accessories
  • 07
    Small amount of dark straw colored paper rope for the bag
  • 08
    Two packs of Viburnum Etamine (Color 840) for the hair
  • 09
    Cotton Perle thread in light blue, dark blue, brown, white, black, and pink for facial details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.00 mm and 2.20 mm crochet hooks
  • 02
    2.5 mm knitting needles (for the leg warmers)
  • 03
    High-quality polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Three 8mm white buttons for the t-shirt
  • 05
    One 8mm purple button for the dress
  • 06
    Seven 6mm white buttons for the dress front
  • 07
    Set of embroidery needles (etamine, society, and quilt needles)
  • 08
    Half meter of parachute rope for shoelaces
  • 09
    70cm of 2.5mm electrical wire for the armature
  • 10
    Dry crayons for facial shading and blush

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Round 1 :

Start with skin color. 6 sc into a sh (6)

Round 2 :

6 x inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (72)

Round 13-27 :

sc in every st around (72)

Info :

Pause here for eye embroidery. Mark the midpoint between the 21st and 22nd rows. Space the pupils 11 stitches apart. Use black thread for pupils, dark and light blue for the iris, and white for the shimmer and whites of the eyes.

Round 28-30 :

sc in every st around (72)

Round 31 :

2 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) repeat 5 times, 8 sc (66)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (9 sc, dec) repeat 5 times, 4 sc (60)

Round 33 :

(8 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (54)

Round 34 :

2 sc, dec, (7 sc, dec) repeat 5 times, 5 sc (48)

Round 35 :

5 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) repeat 5 times, 1 sc (42)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head firmly, ensuring a round shape. Note that the pattern sequence skips to Round 38.

Round 38 :

2 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) repeat 5 times, 3 sc (36)

Round 39 :

(4 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 40 :

(3 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 41 :

(1 sc, dec) repeat 8 times, sl st (16)

— 2. Arms :

Round 1 :

Using skin color, 6 sc into a sh (6)

Round 2 :

2 x inc, 1 sc, 2 x inc, 1 sc (10)

Round 3 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12)

Round 4 :

3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc (14)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 9 sc (15)

Round 6-8 :

sc in every st around (15)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 1 sc (13)

Round 10 :

11 sc (12) - Note: Adjust to 12 if count differs

Round 11-36 :

sc in every st around, sl st at the end. Do not stuff. (12)

— 3. Feet :

Round 1 :

Using tan yarn, ch 9. Starting in 2nd ch: inc, 6 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Turn to work on other side: 7 sc (18)

Round 2 :

inc, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc (20)

Round 3-10 :

sc in every st around (20)

Round 11 :

3 sc, ch 7, skip 9 st, 8 sc

Round 12 :

3 sc, 7 sc across the ch, 8 sc (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, dec) repeat 6 times (12)

Round 14 :

6 x dec (6). Close the heel and fasten off.

— 4. Left Leg :

Round 1 :

Attach skin yarn to the 4th loop of the heel opening. 4 sc on the ch, 1 sc in gap, 9 sc across front, 1 sc in gap, 3 sc on ch (18)

Round 2 :

4 sc, dec, flo 7 sc, dec, 3 sc (16)

Round 3-6 :

sc in every st around (16)

Round 7 :

inc, 15 sc (17)

Round 8 :

sc in every st around (17)

Round 9 :

1 sc, inc, 15 sc (18)

Round 10 :

sc in every st around (18)

Round 11 :

2 sc, inc, 15 sc (19)

Round 12 :

3 sc, inc, 15 sc (20)

Round 13 :

sc in every st around (20)

Round 14 :

4 sc, inc, 15 sc (21)

Round 15 :

sc in every st around (21)

Round 16 :

5 sc, inc, 15 sc (22)

Round 17 :

sc in every st around (22)

Round 18 :

6 sc, inc, 15 sc (23)

Round 19-23 :

sc in every st around (23)

Round 24 :

5 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 13 sc (21)

Round 25 :

sc in every st around (21)

Round 26 :

4 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 12 sc (19)

Round 27 :

5 sc, dec, 5 sc, 4 x inc, 3 sc (22)

Round 28 :

sc in every st around (22)

Round 29 :

11 sc, 4 x dec, 3 sc (18)

Round 30 :

4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 11 sc (20)

Round 31 :

sc in every st around (20)

Round 32 :

6 sc, inc, 13 sc (21)

Round 33 :

sc in every st around (21)

Round 34 :

6 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 12 sc (23)

Round 35 :

sc in every st around (23)

Round 36 :

8 sc, inc, 14 sc (24)

Round 37 :

sc in every st around (24)

Round 38 :

9 sc, inc, 14 sc (25)

Round 39 :

sc in every st around (25)

Round 40 :

10 sc, inc, 14 sc (26)

Round 41 :

sc in every st around (26)

Round 42 :

11 sc, inc, 14 sc (27)

Round 43 :

sc in every st around (27)

Round 44 :

12 sc, inc, 14 sc (28)

Round 45 :

4 sc with tan, 24 sc with white (28)

Round 46 :

sc in every st around in white (28)

Round 47 :

4 sc, sl st, fasten off (28)

— 5. Right Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the Left Leg until Round 26. The shaping for the calves is created by the placement of stuffing rather than different stitch counts.

Round 27 :

5 sc, dec, 7 sc, 4 x inc, 1 sc (22)

Round 28 :

sc in every st around (22)

Round 29 :

13 sc, 4 x dec, 1 sc (18)

Round 30 :

4 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 11 sc (20)

Round 31-44 :

Follow Left Leg counts for Rounds 31-44.

Round 45 :

23 sc with skin, 5 sc with white (28)

Round 46 :

sc in every st around in white (28)

Round 47 :

23 sc, do not break yarn; continue to body.

— 6. Body :

Round 1 :

From right leg, ch 4. Join to left leg sl st: 14 sc, inc, 13 sc on left leg. Switch to right leg: 13 sc, inc, 14 sc. 4 sc across the ch (66)

Round 2-7 :

sc in every st around (66)

Round 8 :

15 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 16 sc (64)

Round 9 :

14 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 15 sc (62)

Round 10 :

13 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 14 sc (60)

Round 11 :

12 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 13 sc (58)

Round 12 :

11 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 12 sc (56)

Round 13 :

10 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 11 sc (54)

Round 14 :

9 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 10 sc (52)

Round 15 :

8 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 9 sc (50)

Round 16 :

7 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 8 sc (48)

Round 17 :

6 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 7 sc (46)

Round 18 :

5 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 6 sc (44)

Round 19 :

4 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 5 sc (42)

Round 20 :

3 sc, dec, 31 sc, dec, 4 sc. Switch to skin color. (40)

Round 21-41 :

sc in every st around (40)

Round 42 :

12 sc, join arm with 3 sc through both layers, 17 sc, join other arm with 3 sc through both layers, 5 sc (40)

Round 43 :

12 sc, 9 sc around arm, 17 sc, 9 sc around arm, 5 sc (52)

Round 44 :

10 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 3 sc (48)

Round 45 :

10 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 3 sc (44)

Round 46 :

9 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (36)

Round 47 :

7 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc, dec (28)

Round 48 :

dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, m, 2 sc (20)

Round 49 :

(3 sc, dec) repeat 4 times (16)

Round 50-53 :

sc in every st around (16)

Round 54 :

2 sc, sl st, fasten off.

— 7. T-Shirt :

Row 1 :

Using white, ch 40. Starting in 2nd ch: 5 sc, hdc inc, 8 hdc inc, hdc inc, 9 sc, hdc inc, 8 hdc inc, hdc inc, 5 sc. Turn.

Row 2 :

ch 1, 59 sc. Turn.

Row 3 :

ch 1, 6 sc, inc, 16 hdc, inc, 11 sc, inc, 16 hdc, inc, 6 sc. Turn.

Row 4 :

ch 1, 63 sc. Turn.

Row 5 :

ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 5 hdc, 3 hdc dec, 5 hdc, inc, 13 sc, inc, 5 hdc, 3 hdc dec, 5 hdc, inc, 7 sc. Turn.

Row 6 :

ch 1, 9 sc, ch 3, skip 13 hdc, 17 sc, ch 3, skip 13 hdc, 9 sc. Turn.

Row 7 :

ch 1, 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, 3 sc on ch, 17 sc, 3 sc on ch, 5 sc, inc, 3 sc (41)

Row 8 :

ch 1, 41 sc. Turn.

Row 9 :

ch 1, 4 sc, inc, 31 sc, inc, 4 sc (43)

Row 10-14 :

ch 1, 43 sc. Turn.

Row 15 :

ch 1, 5 sc, inc, 31 sc, inc, 5 sc (45)

Row 16-22 :

ch 1, 45 sc. Turn.

Row 23 :

Work down the side for buttonholes: 6 sc, ch 7, 7 sc, ch 7, 7 sc, ch 7, 2 sc, sl st. Fasten off.

Sleeves :

Attach yarn to armhole. ch 1, 1 sc at junction, 13 sc on arm, 1 sc at junction, 3 sc on ch. sl st, fasten off (18)

— 8. Salopette :

Row 1 :

Using purple, ch 59. Starting in 8th ch: 52 sc. Turn.

Row 2-3 :

ch 1, 52 sc. Turn.

Row 4 :

ch 1, 1 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 1 sc (56)

Row 5-6 :

ch 1, 56 sc. Turn.

Row 7 :

ch 1, 13 sc, inc, 28 sc, inc, 13 sc (58)

Row 8 :

ch 1, 58 sc. Turn.

Row 9 :

ch 1, 1 sc, inc, 54 sc, inc, 1 sc (60)

Row 10 :

ch 1, 60 sc. Turn.

Row 11 :

ch 1, 14 sc, inc, 30 sc, inc, 14 sc (62)

Row 12 :

ch 1, 62 sc. Turn.

Row 13 :

ch 1, 1 sc, inc, 58 sc, inc, 1 sc (64)

Row 14 :

ch 1, 15 sc, inc, 32 sc, inc, 15 sc (66)

Row 15 :

ch 1, 1 sc, inc, 62 sc, inc, 1 sc (68)

Row 16 :

Join to first loop of row. ch 1, 68 sc, sl st.

Row 17 :

ch 1, 68 sc, sl st.

Row 18 :

ch 1, 17 sc, inc, 33 sc, inc, 16 sc, sl st (70)

Row 19-21 :

ch 1, 70 sc, sl st.

Row 22 :

ch 1, 18 sc, inc, 34 sc, inc, 16 sc, sl st (72)

Row 23-25 :

ch 1, 72 sc, sl st.

Row 26 :

ch 1, 19 sc, inc, 36 sc, inc, 15 sc, sl st (74)

Row 27-30 :

ch 1, 74 sc, sl st.

Row 31 :

ch 1, flo 74 x inc, sl st (148)

Row 32-33 :

ch 1, 148 sc, sl st. Fasten off.

Front Piece :

Attach yarn to 21st st of top edge. Rows 1-8: ch 1, 14 sc, turn. Row 9: ch 1, skip 1, 11 sc, skip 1, sl st. Fasten off.

— 9. Shoe :

Round 1 :

Using white, ch 8. Starting in 2nd ch: 2 hdc in one loop, 5 hdc, 5 hdc in last loop. Turn: 5 hdc, 3 hdc in last loop, sl st (20)

Round 2 :

ch 1, 2 hdc inc, 5 hdc, 5 hdc inc, 5 hdc, 3 hdc inc, sl st (30)

Round 3 :

ch 1, (1 hdc, hdc inc) repeat 2 times, 5 hdc, (1 hdc, hdc inc) repeat 5 times, 5 hdc, (1 hdc, hdc inc) repeat 3 times, sl st (40)

Round 4 :

ch 1, 40 sl st around, sl st to first st.

Round 5 :

ch 2, 40 dc into the sl st loops of Row 4, sl st. Fasten off white.

Round 6 :

Attach green. ch 2, 40 dc, sl st.

Round 7 :

ch 1, 40 sc through blo of white and both loops of green together.

Round 8 :

ch 1, 12 sc, 4 hdc, hdc dec, 2 hdc, hdc dec, 2 hdc, hdc dec, 4 hdc, 10 sc, sl st (37)

Round 9 :

ch 1, 12 sc, hdc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, 9 sc, sl st (31)

Round 10 :

ch 1, 11 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 8 sc, sl st (29)

Round 11 :

ch 1, 9 sc, hdc, 6 hdc dec, hdc, 6 sc, sl st (23)

Round 12 :

ch 1, 12 sc, (hdc & dc in same st), 2 dc inc, (dc & hdc in same st), 7 sc, sl st.

Round 13 :

ch 1, 27 sl st, sl st to first st. Fasten off.

Round 14 :

Attach white to flo of Row 3 of sole. 40 sl st. Fasten off.

— 10. Cat Hat :

Round 1 :

Using lilac, 6 sc into sh (6)

Round 2 :

6 x inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) repeat 6 times (84)

Round 15-25 :

sc in every st around (84)

Round 26 :

84 sc, sl st, fasten off.

Hat Brim :

Attach yarn to blo of 37th st of hat. Follow Row 1-11 instructions to create the visor shape using increases at the edges.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert the 35cm wire into the body, ensuring half is in the torso and the other half extends for the neck support.
  • Sew the head firmly to the body, ensuring the neck wire is centered and well-padded with fiberfill to prevent wobbling.
  • Attach the hair strands using the transplant technique, starting with the facial hairline eight rows above the eyebrows.
  • Embroider the nose two rows below the eyes, centered between them, and shape the lips using the triangle wrapping technique.
  • Sew the pockets to the salopette dress, positioning them seven rows above the hem and eleven stitches apart.
  • Attach the cat ears to the hat diagonally, starting from the 7th row and leaving an 8-row gap between them.
  • Finish by sewing all buttons onto the t-shirt and salopette, and adding the decorative embroidery to the hat.

Important Notes

  • 💡Fill the body and leg joints very firmly; if under-filled, the doll's posture will look frail and won't hold the wire armature well.
  • 💡When crocheting the salopette, work counter-clockwise from the inside of the piece to maintain the correct fabric texture.
  • 💡Use a 'flying pen' or erasable marker to map out all facial features before embroidering to ensure perfect symmetry.
  • 💡The doll's height is approximately 35cm, but this can vary based on your tension; consistent tension is key for the clothing to fit correctly.
  • 💡Always carry your yarn tails inside the stitches when changing colors for a neat, professional finish on the inside of the garments.

There's something so incredibly rewarding about finishing a project as detailed as Mimosa. From the tip of her lilac cat ears to the soles of her tiny green shoes, every single stitch tells a story of patience and craft. I truly hope you enjoy the process of bringing her to life as much as I did. She is more than just a doll; she is a handmade keepsake that will be cherished for years to come. Don't forget to give her little dog a pat for me! Happy crafting! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use safety eyes instead of embroidery?

You can use 10mm or 12mm safety eyes, but keep in mind that the character's soulful look comes from the layered embroidery. If you switch, place them between Rounds 21 and 22.

What if the salopette is too short for my doll?

Amigurumi height can vary based on stuffing. If your doll is taller, simply add a few more repeat rows of 74 sc before starting the ruffle on Row 31.

Is the wire armature absolutely necessary?

While she will still be cute without it, the wire is essential for her to stand properly and hold her dog's leash. Use 2.5mm electrical wire for the best stability.

How do I make the hair look so thick?

The secret is the double-layer transplanting. By using two strands of yarn for every 'plug' and following the midline technique, you get a full, realistic mane.