Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.
Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.
Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.
Penny makes a gorgeous gift for tennis fans, sports-loving kids, or anyone who appreciates a handmade doll with real character. She looks stunning on a shelf or desk and turns heads every time.
I genuinely love this pattern because it doesn't feel like just a doll — it feels like building a tiny person with an actual life. The moment her curly ponytail was done and I slipped the visor cap on, I was completely charmed. The wire skeleton is a bit of extra work, but watching her stand on her own two feet and actually hold that little racket? So worth it. The color-changing technique on the legs for the sneakers and socks is one of the most satisfying things I've ever crocheted — it looks so clean and intentional once you get it right.
I have a soft spot for amigurumi dolls that tell a story — and Penny absolutely does. The moment I saw her standing there with her little racket and that confident posture, I knew I had to make her. She's not just a doll. She's a whole character.
What surprised me most was how much of the sportswear detail is built right into the crochet itself. The sneaker stripes, the stocking pattern, the pleated skirt — none of it is separate pieces you sew on afterward. It's all constructed through clever color changes and BLO rows, and once you understand that technique, it becomes almost meditative. You're watching actual stripes and textures emerge round by round.
The wire skeleton was the part I was most nervous about the first time. Bending aluminum wire into the shape of a foot sounds fiddly, and honestly — it is a little fiddly. But wrapping the ends in adhesive plaster first makes it so much safer to handle, and once the wire is inside and the foot is stuffed, the whole leg suddenly has this solidity that makes the doll feel really special. She actually stands. On her own. No prop needed.
If you want to personalize Penny, try switching her wristbands to match a favorite team's colors, or give her a different skirt color — dusty pink or navy would look gorgeous with the beige skin tone. You could also use a pale skin-tone yarn for a different look entirely. The hair technique with the looped ponytail chains also works beautifully in other colors if you want a different character.
My one tip: do the face embroidery before you attach the head. I know it feels like you should finish the whole body first, but embroidering on a freestanding head is infinitely easier than working on one that's already attached to a body. Trust me on that one.
Meet Penny — a sporty little crochet doll dressed head to toe in her tennis best, complete with a pleated grey skirt, yellow sneakers, a visor cap, and her very own handmade racket and clay ball. This pattern walks you through every detail, from her curly brown ponytail secured with a white scrunchie to the embroidered logo on her T-shirt. You'll build her piece by piece — legs, body, arms, head, hair, and accessories — using a wire skeleton that lets her actually pose. If you love making dolls with real personality and a story behind them, Penny is your next project.
Make 2 arms in beige. Do not stuff with fiberfill. The hand section is worked the same for both arms; color changes for the wristband differ between left and right (see below).
Start with MR, work 5sc into the ring. (5)
Work 1inc in each stitch around. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 1 three-dc bubble stitch, then 9sc. (10) — Note: a 3dc bubble is worked by making 3 dc all into the same stitch and pulling through together to form a raised cluster; this creates the thumb.
Work (1dec-3sc) twice. (8) — The first dec must fall directly above the 3dc bubble.
Work 8sc. (8)
For the LEFT arm: work 3 shifting sc at this point to position the color change correctly. For the RIGHT arm: work 5 shifting sc later (before Row 25) to center the color change on the inner arm side. Wristband colors: the original uses different colors per arm, but one color for both is fine.
Switch to white yarn; keep beige attached (do not cut).
Work 8sl st loosely. (8)
Switch to yellow yarn; cut white.
Working into BLO of Round 6 and the sc of that round simultaneously, work 8sc. (8)
Switch to grey yarn; cut yellow.
Work 8sc. (8)
Switch to beige yarn; cut grey.
Work 8sl st loosely. (8)
Working into BLO of Round 9 and those sc simultaneously, work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work (1inc-3sc) twice. (10) — Increases must fall on opposite sides of the arm.
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 5 shifting sc on the right arm so the upcoming color change lands at the center of the inner arm side.
Switch to white yarn; cut beige.
Work 10sl st loosely. (10)
Switch to grey yarn; keep white attached.
Working into BLO of Round 24 and those sc together, work 10sc. (10)
Switch to white yarn; cut grey.
Work 10sc. (10) — Fasten off and weave in the end.
The left arm follows the same structure as the right arm from Round 7 onward, with one difference: the wristband uses yellow instead of white for Row 7, and the shifting sc count before the sleeve stripe differs. Work 4 shifting sc (not 5) before Row 25 on the left arm.
Switch to yellow yarn; keep beige attached.
Work 8sl st loosely. (8)
Working into BLO of Round 6 and those sc simultaneously, work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Switch to beige yarn; cut yellow.
Work 8sl st loosely. (8)
Working into BLO of Round 9 and those sc together, work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work 8sc. (8)
Work (1inc-3sc) twice. (10) — Increases must fall exactly on opposite sides.
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 10sc. (10)
Work 4 shifting sc on the left arm to center the color change on the inner arm side.
Switch to white yarn; cut beige.
Work 10sl st loosely. (10)
Switch to grey yarn; keep white attached.
Working into BLO of Round 24 and those sc together, work 10sc. (10)
Switch to white yarn; cut grey.
Work 10sc. (10) — Fasten off and weave in the end.
Make 2 legs. Do not stuff with fiberfill yet — insert the insole and wire skeleton at the specified points. Begin with grey yarn for the sneaker sole.
Chain 8, turn, and begin working from the 2nd ch from the hook to form an oval base.
Work 6sc along one side, 3sc into the corner stitch, 5sc along the other side, then 2sc into the last stitch. (16)
Work 1inc, 5sc, 3inc, 5sc, 2inc. (22)
Work 1sc-1inc, 5sc, (1sc-1inc) 3 times, 5sc, (1sc-1inc) twice. (28)
Working BLO only, work 28sc. (28)
Switch to yellow yarn; cut grey.
Work 28sl st loosely. (28)
Working into BLO of Round 4 and those sc together, work 28sc. (28)
Insert the cardboard or plastic insole now. Cut an oval to the length of the foot — approximately 0.98 x 1.38 inches. Insert or glue it inside the foot. Cut both insoles at once so they match.
The decreases for Rows 7–9 must fall exactly at the center of the toe end. Use shifting sc if needed to get into position before starting the dec sequence.
Work 8sc, 5dec, 10sc. (23)
Work 7sc, 3dec, 10sc. (20)
Work 7sc, 2dec, 9sc. (18)
Insert the wire skeleton now. Use 2mm thick wire approximately 11 inches long. Coil and twist it into a spiral and wrap both ends securely with adhesive plaster, then bend it into the shape of the foot. Insert it with the wrapped section pointing down into the sole. Pack fiberfill firmly into the foot with a skewer, then continue stuffing as you work up the leg.
Switch to white yarn; keep yellow attached.
Working BLO, work 3sc, 1dec, (2sc-1dec) twice, 3sc, 1dec. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 1 shifting sc to position the upcoming color change directly above the heel at the back of the leg.
Switch to yellow yarn; keep white attached.
Work 14sl st loosely. (14)
Switch to white yarn; cut yellow.
Working into BLO of Round 15 and those sc together, work 14sc. (14)
Switch to grey yarn; keep white attached.
Work 14sl st loosely. (14)
Switch to white yarn; cut grey.
Working into BLO of Round 17 and those sc together, work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Switch to beige yarn; cut white.
Working BLO, work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 14sc. (14)
Work 3sc, 1inc, 7sc, 1inc, 2sc. (16) — Increases must fall on both sides of the leg. Use shifting sc if needed to position them correctly.
Work 16sc. (16)
Work 16sc. (16)
Work 16sc. (16)
Work 4sc, 1inc, 8sc, 1inc, 2sc. (18) — Increases must fall on both sides of the leg.
Work 18sc. (18)
Work 18sc. (18)
Work 18sc. (18)
Work 18sc. (18)
Work 18sc. (18)
Work 3 shifting sc so the color change falls exactly at the center back of the leg.
Switch to white yarn; cut beige.
Work 18sl st loosely. (18)
Working into BLO of Round 35 and those sc together, work 18sc. (18)
Work 18sc. (18)
LEFT LEG: Leave the last 4 stitches unworked (shifting sc). Fasten off and weave in the end. RIGHT LEG: Work 5 shifting sc, then do not cut the yarn — continue directly into the body section.
Join grey yarn to the FLO of Round 3 of the sneaker sole and work 28sc around. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Join yellow yarn to the FLO of Round 9. Work 18sc around. (18)
Switch to grey yarn; cut yellow.
Work 18sl st loosely. (18)
Working into BLO of Row 1 and those sc together, work 18sc. (18) — Fasten off and weave in the end.
Join white yarn to the FLO of Round 20 and work 14sc around. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Using grey yarn, embroider shoelace crosses on the sneaker upper.
Stuff the body with fiberfill as you work. Position both legs so the toes point straight forward. The inside seam of each leg must run along the center of the inner thigh. Chain 4 and sl st into the last sc of the left leg to join. Twist the wire ends of both legs together before beginning Row 39.
Work 18sc along the right leg, 4sc across the chain, 18sc along the left leg, 4sc along the other side of the chain. (44) — Place a stitch marker at the back center.
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work 44sc. (44)
Work several shifting sc (approximately 9) to move the marker to the side of the body before beginning the skirt attachment.
Switch to grey yarn; keep white attached.
Work 44sc. (44)
Work the skirt separately using grey yarn. Use the same hook size or one size larger for a looser, more flowing fabric. Work in turning rows. You may need to add or remove 1–2 rows to fit the doll's waist — check as you go. Start with a foundation chain of 12ch, turn, begin in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Working BLO, work 9sc, then 2sl st BLO, ch1, turn. (11)
Working BLO, work 2sl st, then 9sc BLO, ch1, turn. (11)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 alternately a total of 26 more times, for a total of 54 rows.
Working BLO, work 9sc, then 2sl st BLO, ch1, turn. (11)
Fold the skirt piece in half so the two short ends meet. Join with 11sc worked through both layers simultaneously. Fasten off and weave in the end. Place the skirt onto the body with the sl st edge facing upward, then work Row 49 of the body to attach it.
Catching one stitch of the skirt and one stitch of the body together with each sc, work 44sc. (44)
Wrap the twisted leg wire joins with adhesive plaster for safety.
Switch to yellow yarn; cut grey.
Work 44sl st loosely. (44)
Working into BLO of Round 49 and those sc together, work 44sc. (44)
Switch to white yarn; cut yellow.
Work 44sl st loosely. (44)
Working into BLO of Round 51 and those sc together, work 1dec, 20sc, 1dec, 20sc. (42) — Decreases must sit exactly on opposite sides of the body.
Work (5sc-1dec) 6 times. (36)
Work 36sc. (36)
Work 36sc. (36)
Work 36sc. (36)
Work (4sc-1dec) 6 times. (30)
Work 30sc. (30)
Work 30sc. (30)
Work 30sc. (30)
Work 30sc. (30)
Attach both arms now. The arms attach at 1sc each. Shift the marker if necessary so it sits just before the right arm position (shift approximately 2sc). Position arms so fingers point straight ahead.
Work 10sc along the left arm (joining the first sc through both the body and arm together), 14sc along the body, 10sc along the right arm (joining in the same way), 14sc along the body. (48)
Insert the arm wire skeleton now. Take 1mm–1.5mm wire approximately 9 inches long, bend both ends inward about 0.39 inches, wrap all ends with adhesive plaster, and slide it through both arms behind the main body skeleton. Stuff the palms firmly and the rest of the arms lightly.
Work 48sc. (48)
Work 3sc, 1 triple-dec, 21sc, 1 triple-dec, 18sc. (44) — Triple-decs must fall exactly at the center of each shoulder side. A triple-dec joins 3 stitches together at once.
Work 2sc, 2dec, 18sc, 2dec, 16sc. (40) — Decs stay at the shoulder center.
Work 1sc, 2dec, 16sc, 2dec, 15sc. (36)
Work (4sc-1dec) 6 times. (30)
Work (3sc-1dec) 6 times. (24)
Work 2 shifting sc to move the marker to the side of the body.
Switch to beige yarn; cut white.
Working BLO, work (2sc-1dec) 6 times. (18)
Work (1sc-1dec) 6 times. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12)
Work 12sc. (12) — Work any remaining shifting sc needed to return the marker to the side. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Join yellow yarn to the FLO of Round 69 of the body.
Work the following sequence across the round: 12sc, 1hdc, 4dc, 1sl st, 4dc, 1hdc, 1sc. The sl st must fall exactly at the center front of the collar.
Using yellow and white yarn, embroider a small decorative logo onto the front of the T-shirt section of the body.
Work in beige yarn. Stuff the head with fiberfill as you go. Start with a chain of 13ch, turn, begin from the 2nd ch from the hook. The head is worked as an oval.
Work 11sc along one side, 3sc into the corner stitch, 10sc along the other side, 1inc at the end. (26)
Work 1inc, 10sc, 3inc, 10sc, 2inc. (32)
Work 1sc-1inc, 10sc, (1sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (1sc-1inc) twice. (38)
Work 2sc-1inc, 10sc, (2sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (2sc-1inc) twice. (44)
Work 3sc-1inc, 10sc, (3sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (3sc-1inc) twice. (50)
Work 4sc-1inc, 10sc, (4sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (4sc-1inc) twice. (56)
Work 25sc, 1inc, 27sc, 1inc, 2sc. (58) — Both increases must sit exactly on opposite sides.
Work 58sc. (58)
Work 26sc, 1inc, 28sc, 1inc, 2sc. (60) — Increases on opposite sides.
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
If using safety eyes with a locking back, insert them now — between Rounds 11 and 14, spaced 6sc apart.
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 4sc, 1dec, (8sc-1dec) 5 times, 4sc. (54)
Work (7sc-1dec) 6 times. (48)
Work 3sc, 1dec, (6sc-1dec) 5 times, 3sc. (42)
Work (5sc-1dec) 6 times. (36)
Work 2sc, 1dec, (4sc-1dec) 5 times, 2sc. (30)
Work (3sc-1dec) 6 times. (24)
Work 1sc, 1dec, (2sc-1dec) 5 times, 1sc. (18)
Work (4sc-1dec) 3 times. (15)
Working BLO, work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15)
Work 15sc. (15) — Fasten off and weave in the end. Stuff the head firmly with fiberfill.
Using a sushi stick or chopstick, tuck the neck tube (Rounds 26–33) up into the head cavity. The head must be firmly stuffed but the neck opening should still slide easily onto the body's neck tube.
Work 6sc into MR, ch1, turn. (6)
Work 6sc. (6) — Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing on.
Create eye indentations (contractions) by pulling the yarn through the fabric from behind each eye position to create a slight recess — this gives the eyes a more expressive, sunken look.
If you haven't inserted the eyes yet, do so now: place them between Rounds 11 and 14 with exactly 6sc between them.
Embroider the whites of the eyes using white yarn. Using black moulinet floss in 4 strands, embroider the upper eyelids. Using black moulinet floss in 2 strands, add the eyelashes.
Embroider eyebrows using a strand of brown hair yarn. Embroider the nose in beige yarn — position it 1sc below the eyes and make it 2sc wide. Embroider the mouth using light-brown moulinet floss in a single strand — place it 2sc below the nose and work it 4sc wide.
Apply pink oil pastel or powder blush to the cheeks and tip of the nose. Lightly dust the eyebrows with brown oil pastel.
Sew the ears to the head between Rounds 13 and 17, placing them 6sc away from each eye on either side.
Work in brown yarn. Do not stuff. Start with a chain of 13ch, turn, begin from the 2nd ch from the hook. This piece is worked the same shape as the head oval.
Work 11sc along one side, 3sc into the corner stitch, 10sc along the other side, 1inc. (26)
Working BLO, work 1inc, 10sc, 3inc, 10sc, 2inc. (32)
Work 1sc-1inc, 10sc, (1sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (1sc-1inc) twice. (38)
Work 2sc-1inc, 10sc, (2sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (2sc-1inc) twice. (44)
Work 3sc-1inc, 10sc, (3sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (3sc-1inc) twice. (50)
Work 4sc-1inc, 10sc, (4sc-1inc) 3 times, 10sc, (4sc-1inc) twice. (56)
Work 25sc, 1inc, 27sc, 1inc, 2sc. (58) — Increases exactly on opposite sides.
Work 58sc. (58)
Work 26sc, 1inc, 28sc, 1inc, 2sc. (60) — Increases exactly on opposite sides.
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Work 60sc. (60)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail — do not weave it in yet. Continue to the ponytail before adding the cap rows.
Join brown yarn to the FLO of Round 1 of the hair piece. Work the following sequence: 1sc, then repeat (ch16, turn, work 15hdc back along the chain, 1sc in the next stitch of Round 1) 26 times total. This creates the curly ponytail loops. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Switch to grey yarn and continue on the hair piece.
Work 60sl st loosely. (60)
Working into BLO of Round 12 and those sc together, work 60sc. (60) — Do not cut grey thread; set aside and work the cap peak next.
Work the peak in yellow yarn in turning rows. Start with a foundation chain of 15ch, turn, begin from the 2nd ch from the hook.
Work 14sc, ch1, turn. (14)
Work 14sc, ch1, turn. (14)
Work 1inc, 12sc, 1inc, ch1, turn. (16)
Work 16sc, ch1, turn. (16)
Work 1inc, 14sc, 1inc, ch1, turn. (18)
Work 18sc, ch1, turn. (18)
Work 1inc, 16sc, 1inc, ch1. (20)
Bind off the peak along 3 sides (the two short sides and the outer curved edge) using sc. Follow the direction of the arrows shown in the photo guide.
Return to the grey yarn on the hair piece. Work 29sc, then work 20sc simultaneously through both the hair piece and the peak edge to join them, then work 11sc to complete the round. (60) — Bind off the cap edge with sc all around. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Sew or pin the completed hair and cap unit onto the head.
Using white yarn, chain 33, turn, begin from the 2nd ch from the hook.
Work 32hdc across the chain. (32) — Try the piece around the ponytail to check fit before joining. Join the ends with sl st, then sew closed using the tail. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Draw a racket shape on grid paper, then trace and cut 4 identical shapes from cardboard. Glue two pairs of shapes together so you have 2 sturdy racket frames. Paint the front face of both rackets grey and add yellow stripe details.
Take one racket frame and glue a piece of tulle mesh to its unpainted side. Press the second matching frame on top to sandwich the tulle. Trim any tulle that extends beyond the frame edges. Glue a small strip of yellow paper around the handle to finish it.
Shape yellow polymer clay or air-dry clay into a ball approximately 0.59 inches in diameter. Cure or dry it according to the clay manufacturer's instructions. Once dry and firm, paint two curved white stripes using acrylic paint and a fine brush.
Penny has officially taken the court — and she's ready to come home with you! 🎾 This pattern is one of those projects that feels like a real achievement when it's done. From the first magic ring of her little hand all the way to tying the scrunchie around her curly ponytail, every step of making Penny is genuinely fun. She's detailed, she's sporty, and she has so much personality — the kind of doll you'll want to keep on your desk rather than give away (though she makes an incredible gift for any tennis fan). Take your time, enjoy the color changes, and don't stress about the wire — it's much easier than it sounds. You've got this. 🧶✨
The wire is what lets Penny stand up on her own two feet and hold her pose. You can skip it, but you'll need to insert a wooden skewer or stiff armature at least into the neck to stop the head from flopping. Without leg wire, the legs will be floppy and the doll will need to be propped or seated rather than displayed standing.
Technically yes, but Penny will come out noticeably larger — likely 13–14 inches rather than 11 inches — and the fine details like the sneaker stripe and stocking colors will look chunkier. If you go up in yarn weight, size down your hook to keep the fabric tight so the stuffing doesn't show through.
The slip stitch row before each color stripe must be worked very loosely — looser than feels natural. The sl st just anchors the color; the actual stripe is formed on the following BLO sc row. If you work the sl st at normal tension, it pulls the fabric inward and the stripe looks crooked or puckered.
The eyes sit between Rounds 11 and 14, with exactly 6sc of space between them. If you're using screw-back safety eyes you can insert them during this window while the head is still open; if you're gluing them, you can wait until after the head is closed and stuffed, using strong craft glue.
Each loop is a chain of 16 with 15hdc worked back along it before moving to the next stitch on Round 1. The key is keeping your chain tension identical for every loop — if some chains are tighter than others, the loops will be different lengths. Work slowly and check every third or fourth loop before continuing.
Stuff the head very firmly, then push the neck tube (the BLO section from Round 26 onward) up inside the head cavity using a chopstick. The tube should fit snugly inside without forcing. Sew the head to the body using a long doll needle and ladder stitch, going through multiple layers and pulling firmly — weave in the tail at least twice through the body stitches to anchor it.
