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Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
1.6KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

A wonderful gift for a nursery or a collector who appreciates the articulated limbs. He’s a timeless piece that looks professional but feels purely handmade.

Why You'll Love This Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern

I love how the joints give him so much personality—you can actually pose him! Plus, the sweater is made separately, so you can play around with different colors for every season.

Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I remember the first time I tried working with velvet yarn—it felt like crocheting a cloud, but keeping track of stitches was a nightmare! My best advice for this panda is to feel for the stitches with your fingers rather than just relying on your eyes. This little guy is such a joy because of those articulated limbs. There’s something so rewarding about a toy that can actually 'sit' on your desk and look back at you.

When you get to the sweater, don't be afraid to swap out the greens for something more festive or even a classic yellow. I actually made a version in a soft lavender that looked absolutely darling. If you find the sweater is a bit snug, just jump up a hook size for that section. The wire frame is optional, but if you want him to have that 'curious' tilted-head look in photos, it's worth the extra five minutes of prep. I can't wait to see the personalities you all give your pandas—tag me in your photos so I can see those rosy cheeks!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ The eye spots are asymmetrical by design, so if you sew them on perfectly level, he might lose that curious expression—pin them at an angle first.✗ When working the sweater rows, the BLO rounds create a specific texture; skipping these will make the sweater look flat and less like a real knit garment.✗ If you use cotter pins, ensure they are 2 rounds down from the marker as instructed, or the limbs will sit too high on the body.✗ The shift stitch is vital for the legs; if you don't align the marker to the center of the heel, your panda's feet might point inward or outward awkwardly.

Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern

You're going to fall head over heels for this little panda! There's something so satisfying about watching those classic black and white patches come together, and that tiny striped sweater is just the icing on the cake. I've designed this to be a sturdy, jointed friend that sits perfectly on a shelf or stays tucked under an arm. Grab your velvet yarn and let's make a new best friend together.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Adorable Striped Sweater Panda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Katia Velvet Fine (100% polyester) in Cream (200) and Black (211)
  • 02
    YarnArt Baby Cotton (50% cotton/50% acrylic) in Dark Green (444) and Mint Green (439)
  • 03
    Black and white embroidery floss for facial features

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2mm crochet hook
  • 02
    6-7mm loop-back safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 03
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Sewing pins and needle
  • 05
    0.9mm diameter wire (20cm) for optional frame
  • 06
    25mm plastic joints or cotter pins with 25mm disks for hind legs
  • 07
    15mm plastic joints or cotter pins with 15mm disks for forelegs
  • 08
    Round nose pliers for cotter pin fastening
  • 09
    Blush or peach pastel for cheek tinting
  • 10
    Three 5mm buttons for the sweater

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Info :

Using cream yarn, stuff the head as you work through the rounds.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*6 (18)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*5, 1sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*6 (30)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*5, 2sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*6 (42)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*5, 3sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7sc, inc)*6 (54)

Round 10 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*5, 4sc (60)

Round 11 :

(9sc, inc)*6 (66)

Round 12-13 :

66sc (66)

Round 14 :

(21sc, inc)*3 (69)

Round 15-16 :

69sc (69)

Round 17 :

11sc, inc, (22sc, inc)*2, 11sc (72)

Round 18-19 :

72sc (72)

Round 20 :

(23sc, inc)*3 (75)

Round 21 :

75sc (75)

Round 22 :

12sc, inc, (24sc, inc)*2, 12sc (78)

Round 23-27 :

78sc (78)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*6 (72)

Round 29 :

5sc, dec, (10sc, dec)*5, 5sc (66)

Round 30 :

(9sc, dec)*6 (60)

Round 31 :

4sc, dec, (8sc, dec)*5, 4sc (54)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*6 (48)

Round 33 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*7, 2sc (40)

Round 34 :

(3sc, dec)*8 (32)

Round 35 :

(2sc, dec)*8 (24)

Round 36 :

(1sc, dec)*8 (16)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for assembly.

— 2. Eye Spots :

Info :

Make two spots using black yarn.

Foundation :

ch6

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 4sc, 3sc inc in last ch, rotate to work other side of ch: 3sc, inc (12)

Round 2 :

inc, 3sc, 3inc, 3sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (24)

Round 4 :

2sc, inc, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*3, 3sc, (2sc, inc)*2 (30)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

— 3. Ears :

Info :

Make two using black yarn. Do not stuff.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*4 (16)

Round 4-7 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Flatten the ear and sc 8 through both layers to close. Fasten off with a sewing tail.

— 4. Forelegs :

Info :

Make two using black yarn. Keep the round marker centered on the back of the leg.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1sc, inc)*3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2sc, inc)*3 (12)

Round 4-6 :

12sc (12)

Round 7 :

6sc, inc, 5sc (13)

Round 8 :

13sc (13)

Round 9 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 10 :

14sc (14)

Round 11 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 13 :

16sc (16)

Info :

Stuff the bottom part firmly and the top lightly.

Left Foreleg - Joint Hole :

Round 14: 11sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 3sc (16)

Left Foreleg - Joint Hole :

Round 15: 11sc, 2sc on the ch, 3sc (16)

Right Foreleg - Joint Hole :

Round 14: 3sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 11sc (16)

Right Foreleg - Joint Hole :

Round 15: 3sc, 2sc on the ch, 11sc (16)

Note :

If using cotter pins instead of plastic joints, skip the ch2 hole steps and simply sc 16 for Rounds 14-15.

Round 16 :

(2sc, dec)*4 (12)

Round 17 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off and pull the hole closed.

— 5. Hind Legs :

Info :

Make two using black yarn.

Foundation :

ch5

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch from hook: 3sc, 4sc in last ch, rotate to work other side: 2sc, inc (11)

Round 2 :

inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 3sc inc, 2sc, 2inc (18)

Round 3 :

1sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc inc, 4sc, 3sc inc, 3sc, (1sc, inc)*2 (25)

Round 4 :

25sc (25)

Round 5 :

24sc (this is a short round to align the marker to the heel) (24)

Round 6 :

8sl st, 9sc, 8sl st (25)

Round 7 :

5sc, (1sc, dec)*5, 5sc (20)

Round 8 :

5sc, 5dec, 5sc (15)

Round 9 :

6sc, sc3tog, 6sc (13)

Round 10 :

6sc, inc, 6sc (14)

Round 11 :

14sc (14)

Round 12 :

7sc, inc, 6sc (15)

Round 13 :

15sc (15)

Round 14 :

7sc, inc, 7sc (16)

Round 15 :

(7sc, inc)*2 (18)

Round 16 :

(8sc, inc)*2 (20)

Round 17 :

20sc (20)

Left Hind Leg - Joint Hole :

Round 18: 12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 6sc (20)

Left Hind Leg - Joint Hole :

Round 19: 12sc, 2sc on the ch, 6sc (20)

Right Hind Leg - Joint Hole :

Round 18: 6sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (20)

Right Hind Leg - Joint Hole :

Round 19: 6sc, 2sc on the ch, 12sc (20)

Note :

If using cotter pins, skip ch2 steps and sc 20 for Rounds 18-19. Stuff foot firmly and top lightly.

Round 20-21 :

20sc (20)

Round 22 :

(8sc, dec)*2 (18)

Round 23 :

(1sc, dec)*6 (12)

Round 24 :

6dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off and hide the tail.

— 6. Body :

Info :

Start with cream yarn. Marker stays centered on the back.

Round 1 :

7sc in a MR (7)

Round 2 :

7inc (14)

Round 3 :

(1sc, inc)*7 (21)

Round 4 :

1sc, inc, (2sc, inc)*6, 1sc (28)

Round 5 :

(3sc, inc)*7 (35)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, (4sc, inc)*6, 2sc (42)

Round 7 :

(5sc, inc)*7 (49)

Round 8 :

3sc, inc, (6sc, inc)*6, 3sc (56)

Round 9-10 :

56sc (56)

Round 11 - Plastic Joints :

12sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 28sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 12sc (56)

Round 12 - Plastic Joints :

12sc, 2sc on the ch, 28sc, 2sc on the ch, 12sc (56)

Note :

If using cotter pins, Round 11-12 is 56sc each. Mark between stitches 13/14 and 43/44 for pin placement.

Round 13-16 :

56sc (56)

Round 17 :

13sc, dec, 26sc, dec, 13sc (54)

Round 18 :

54sc (54)

Info :

Secure the hind legs into the body holes or marked points now.

Round 19 :

18sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 18sc (50)

Round 20 :

50sc (50)

Round 21 :

22sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 22sc (48)

Round 22 :

7sc, dec, (14sc, dec)*2, 7sc (45)

Colour Change :

Switch to black yarn and cut the cream.

Round 23 - Plastic Joints :

10sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 21sc, ch2, skip 2sc, 10sc (45)

Round 24 - Plastic Joints :

10sc, 2sc on the ch, 1sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 3sc, 2sc on the ch, 8sc, dec (42)

Note :

If using cotter pins, Round 23 is 45sc. Mark between 11/12 and 34/35 for pins. Round 24 is (13sc, dec)*3.

Round 25-26 :

42sc (42)

Round 27 :

6sc, dec, (12sc, dec)*2, 6sc (39)

Round 28 :

(11sc, dec)*2 (36)

Info :

Secure forelegs and begin stuffing the body firmly.

Round 29 :

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec)*5, 2sc (30)

Round 30 :

(3sc, dec)*6 (24)

Round 31 :

(2sc, dec)*6 (18)

Round 32 :

(7sc, dec)*2 (16)

Info :

Fasten off and tuck in the ends.

— 7. Tail :

Info :

Use cream yarn.

Round 1 :

6sc in a MR (6)

Round 2 :

6inc (12)

Round 3 :

12sc (12)

Round 4 :

(1sc, dec)*4 (8)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

— 8. Sweater :

Info :

Work in rows using mint green yarn. Change hook if needed for fit.

Foundation :

ch37

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch: 36sc, t-ch, turn (36)

Row 2 :

4sc, inc, (8sc, inc)*3, 4sc, t-ch, turn (40)

Colour Change :

Switch to dark green.

Row 3 :

BLO: (6sc, 3sc inc)*2, 6sc, inc, 5sc, (3sc inc, 6sc)*2, t-ch, turn (49)

Row 4 :

3sc, inc, 41sc, inc, 3sc, t-ch, turn (51)

Colour Change :

Switch to mint green.

Row 5 :

BLO: (8sc, 3sc inc)*2, 15sc, (3sc inc, 8sc)*2, t-ch, turn (59)

Row 6 :

3sc, inc, 51sc, inc, 3sc, t-ch, turn (61)

Colour Change :

Switch to dark green.

Row 7 :

BLO: (10sc, 3sc inc)*2, 17sc, (3sc inc, 10sc)*2, t-ch, turn (69)

Row 8 :

11sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 9sc, inc, 9sc, ch6, skip 14sc, 11sc, t-ch, turn (54)

Colour Change :

Switch to mint green.

Row 9 :

BLO: 11sc, (3sc, inc, 2sc) on the ch, 20sc, (2sc, inc, 3sc) on the ch, 11sc, t-ch, turn (56)

Row 10 :

56sc (56)

Edging :

Create button loops along the side: 1sc, ch4, 1sc in mint green, then 2sc in dark green. Repeat to neckline.

— 9. Sleeves :

Info :

Attach dark green yarn to the unused front loop of Row 7 on the sweater.

Round 1 :

14sc, 6sc on the ch of Row 8 (20)

Colour Change :

Switch to mint green.

Round 2 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 3 :

20sc (20)

Colour Change :

Switch to dark green.

Round 4 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 5 :

20sc (20)

Colour Change :

Switch to mint green.

Round 6 :

BLO: 20sc (20)

Round 7 :

20sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat for second sleeve.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin the black eye spots to the head and sew them securely before adding the safety eyes through the loops.
  • Use embroidery floss to add the nose, mouth, and eyebrows, then use white floss for the eye highlights.
  • Insert the limb joints or cotter pins into the designated holes in the body and secure them firmly with the disks.
  • If using the wire frame, fold the 20cm wire in half, tape the ends, and insert it between the head and body for stability.
  • Sew the head to the body using the remaining cream yarn tail, ensuring it's centered between the forelegs.
  • Attach the ears in a slight arc on the top of the head and the tail to the lower back, stuffing the tail lightly.
  • Finish the look by dressing the panda in his custom sweater and embroidering a small 'X' for the navel just below the hem.

Important Notes

  • 💡The 'shift stitch' is used to keep your work aligned; simply sc one extra stitch if your marker starts drifting too far right.
  • 💡Velvet yarn can be slippery, so use stitch markers at the start of every round to avoid losing your place.
  • 💡When stuffing the limbs, pack the bottom (paws) firmly but keep the tops light so they can move freely on the joints.
  • 💡If you're making this for a small child, skip the wire frame and use secure plastic joints instead of cotter pins.

Your panda is finally ready to meet the world! Whether he's sitting on your bookshelf or being gifted to a loved one, he's sure to bring a smile to anyone who sees him. I hope you enjoyed the process of working with the velvet yarn and the tiny sweater details as much as I did. Don't forget to give him a little squeeze and maybe even a name! Happy crafting, and I can't wait to see your finished creations. 🧶 ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is a shift stitch and why do I need it?

Amigurumi tends to lean as you spiral; the shift stitch is just an extra sc at the end of a round to pull the marker back to the center line so your shaping stays symmetrical.

Can I use regular acrylic yarn instead of velvet?

You definitely can! Just be aware that the velvet yarn creates a bulkier, plushier look. Standard 4-ply cotton or acrylic might result in a slightly smaller panda.

How do I make the joints move smoothly?

Don't over-tighten the disks on the cotter pins. They should be snug enough to hold the limb's position but loose enough to rotate without straining the fabric.

Is the wire frame absolutely necessary?

Not at all! It's great for posing the head, but if you stuff the neck area very firmly, he will still be quite sturdy without it.