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Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern

Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
1.2KMade This
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Beginner Friendly Level

Perfect for those just starting their crocheting journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern

Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This little ox makes a wonderful nursery decoration or a meaningful gift for anyone born in the year of the ox. He sits perfectly on a shelf and brings a touch of handmade warmth to any room.

Why You'll Love This Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely adore how Asher combines traditional amigurumi shapes with such unique little details. The way the ears are joined and folded gives them so much life, and that tiny jump ring in his nose is just the cutest finishing touch. It is one of those patterns where you can really see the character emerge with every piece you attach!

Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I remember exactly where I was when I first saw a sketch of an ox amigurumi—it was right at the start of the lunar new year, and I just knew I had to make one that felt soft, modern, and totally huggable. Asher is that perfect mix of rustic charm and 'kawaii' sweetness. What I love most about this specific design is the muzzle; those little bobble-stitch nostrils give him so much character without needing any complicated embroidery.

When I was testing this pattern, I found that using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label suggests really helps keep the stuffing from peeking through, especially around the curves of the head. And don't be afraid to play with the bow color! While I adore this dusty rose, he looks just as dapper in a forest green or a bright mustard yellow. Making Asher always feels like a little celebration of handmade joy. I can’t wait to see the personality you give yours—maybe he’s a sleepy ox, or maybe he’s ready for an adventure! Happy stitching, my friends.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If the bobble stitches on the muzzle aren't pushed outward with your finger, the nostrils will look inverted and flat.✗ Placing the safety eyes on the wrong rounds can drastically change his expression; make sure they sit exactly between rounds 13 and 14.✗ When sewing the legs, failing to add those extra stabilizing stitches on the sides can cause them to splay out too far, making him unstable.✗ The bow center can easily slide off-center if you don't secure it with a few hidden stitches to the neckband during final assembly.

Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern

Meet Asher, the sweetest little ox you will ever stitch up! Created to celebrate the year of the ox, he is designed with a soft, modern aesthetic that fits perfectly in any nursery or on a cozy shelf. You will love how his gentle personality comes to life as you add his signature pink bow and tiny brass nose ring. This project is a joy to work on, offering a relaxing rhythm that makes every round feel like a treat. Whether you are making him for yourself or as a thoughtful gift, Asher is sure to bring a smile to anyone who holds him.

Beginner Friendly 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Asher the Ox Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    High-quality organic cotton yarn in a soft taupe or brown (Colour 18)
  • 02
    Small amount of crisp white cotton yarn for the muzzle and horns (Colour 01)
  • 03
    Dusty rose or pink cotton yarn for the dapper bow and neckband (Colour 10)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.5 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    6 mm plastic safety eyes
  • 03
    Black embroidery floss for the eyebrows
  • 04
    Soft polyester fibrefill for stuffing
  • 05
    Stitch markers and a darning needle
  • 06
    A small 0.7 mm brass jump ring for the nose

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Round 1 :

Begin by working 8 sc into a magic loop [8]

Round 2 :

Place 2 sc into every stitch around [16]

Round 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 inc) 8 times [24]

Round 4 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 inc) 8 times [32]

Round 5 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 inc) 8 times [40]

Round 6 :

Repeat a sequence of (4 sc, 1 inc) 8 times [48]

Round 7-10 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch for these four rounds [48]

Round 11 :

Repeat a sequence of (5 sc, 1 inc) 8 times [56]

Round 12-14 :

Place 1 sc in each stitch around for these three rounds [56]

Round 15 :

Repeat a sequence of (13 sc, 1 inc) 4 times [60]

Round 16-19 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around for these four rounds [60]

Round 20 :

Repeat a sequence of (8 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [54]

Round 21 :

Repeat a sequence of (7 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [48]

Round 22 :

Repeat a sequence of (6 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [42]

Round 23 :

Repeat a sequence of (5 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [36]

Round 24 :

Repeat a sequence of (4 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [30]

Info :

Place the safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, leaving a 4-stitch gap between them. Use black thread to embroider small eyebrows over round 12, roughly 2 stitches wide. Begin stuffing the head firmly.

Round 25 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [24]

Round 26 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [18]

Round 27 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [12]

Round 28 :

Work 6 dec to close the remaining gap [6]

Info :

Sl st and fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave the tail through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tight to close the hole perfectly. Hide the end inside the head.

— 2. Muzzle :

Info :

Ch 10 to start. You will be working around both sides of this chain.

Round 1 :

Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc into the next 8 ch, then 3 sc into the next ch. Continue on the other side of the foundation ch, sc in each of next 7 ch, and inc in the last ch [20]

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc, 7 sc, then 3 inc. Follow this with 1 3-dc-bobble, 5 sc, another 1 3-dc-bobble, and finish with 2 inc [26]

Round 3 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [26]

Info :

Sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Push the bobble stitches outward to form the nostrils and stuff the piece with fibrefill.

— 3. Body :

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Round 2 :

Place 2 sc into every stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [18]

Round 4 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [24]

Round 5 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [30]

Round 6 :

Repeat a sequence of (4 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [36]

Round 7 :

Repeat a sequence of (5 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [42]

Round 8 :

Repeat a sequence of (6 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [48]

Round 9 :

Repeat a sequence of (7 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [54]

Round 10-14 :

Complete five rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [54]

Round 15 :

Repeat a sequence of (7 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [48]

Round 16 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [48]

Round 17 :

Repeat a sequence of (6 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [42]

Round 18 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [42]

Round 19 :

Repeat a sequence of (5 sc, 1 dec) 6 times [36]

Round 20 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [36]

Round 21 :

Repeat a sequence of (10 sc, 1 dec) 3 times [33]

Round 22 :

Work 5 sc, 1 dec, then repeat (9 sc, 1 dec) twice, finishing with 4 sc [30]

Round 23 :

Work 6 sc, 1 dec, then repeat (8 sc, 1 dec) twice, finishing with 2 sc [27]

Round 24 :

Work 2 sc, 1 dec, then repeat (7 sc, 1 dec) twice, finishing with 5 sc [24]

Info :

Sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for attachment. Stuff the body very firmly with fibrefill.

— 4. Arms (Make 2) :

Info :

Start with white yarn.

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Round 2 :

Place 2 sc into every stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 inc) 3 times [15]

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [15]

Round 5 :

Work 2 dec, then 9 sc, and finish with 1 dec [12]

Round 6 :

Work 1 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, and finish with 1 dec [10]

Colour Change :

Switch to brown yarn.

Round 7-14 :

Work eight rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [10]

Round 15 :

Work 1 sc into the next 6 st only [6]

Info :

Stuff the hand area (rounds 1-6) firmly, adding less stuffing as you move up the arm. Flatten the top opening and work 5 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off with a long tail.

— 5. Legs (Make 2) :

Info :

Start with white yarn.

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Round 2 :

Place 2 sc into every stitch around [12]

Round 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [18]

Round 4 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [24]

Round 5 :

Work 9 sc, then repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) 4 times, finishing with 7 sc [28]

Round 6-7 :

Work two rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [28]

Round 8 :

Work 7 sc, then repeat (1 dec, 1 sc) 6 times, finishing with 3 sc [22]

Round 9 :

Work 4 sc, then repeat (1 dec, 1 sc) 6 times [16]

Round 10 :

Work 5 sc, then repeat (1 dec, 1 sc) 3 times, finishing with 2 sc [13]

Colour Change :

Switch to brown yarn in the next stitch, then work 12 sc around [13]

Round 12-20 :

Work nine rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [13]

Left Leg Rnd 21 :

Work 1 sc in the next 4 st only [4]

Right Leg Rnd 21 :

Work 1 sc in the next 11 st only [11]

Info :

Stuff the foot (rounds 1-11) firmly and gradually decrease stuffing density toward the top. Flatten the opening and work 6 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off with a long tail.

— 6. Ears (Make 2) :

Inner Ear Rnd 1 :

Using white yarn, work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Inner Ear Rnd 2 :

Place 2 sc into every stitch around [12]

Inner Ear Rnd 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [18]

Inner Ear Rnd 4 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 inc) 6 times [24]

Info :

Sl st and fasten off the inner ear. Weave in ends.

Outer Ear Rnd 1-4 :

Using brown yarn, repeat the same steps as the inner ear but do not fasten off.

Joining :

Hold the inner and outer ear pieces back-to-back. With the brown outer ear facing you, work 1 sc through both layers for the next 24 st to join them [24]

Folding :

Fold the joined ear in half, ch 1, and work through both folded layers: 2 sc, then 1 sl st to finish. Fasten off with a long tail.

— 7. Horns (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [6]

Round 3 :

Work 1 inc, then 5 sc [7]

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc into every stitch around [7]

Round 5 :

Work 1 inc, 5 sc, and 1 inc [9]

Round 6 :

Work 1 inc, 7 sc, and 1 inc [11]

Info :

Sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a tail. Stuff the horn firmly.

— 8. Tail :

Round 1 :

Using brown yarn, work 6 sc into a magic loop [6]

Round 2 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 inc) 3 times [9]

Round 3 :

Repeat a sequence of (2 sc, 1 inc) 3 times [12]

Round 4 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 inc) 3 times [15]

Round 5-6 :

Work two rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [15]

Round 7 :

Repeat a sequence of (1 sc, 1 dec) 5 times [10]

Round 8 :

Repeat a sequence of (3 sc, 1 dec) 2 times [8]

Round 9-13 :

Work five rounds of 1 sc in each stitch [8]

Info :

Stuff the end (rounds 1-8) firmly and add less stuffing as you move up. Flatten the opening and work 4 sc through both layers to close. Fasten off with a tail.

— 9. Bow & Neckband :

Bow Info :

Using pink yarn, ch 50 and join with a sl st to form a ring. Be careful not to twist the chain.

Round 1 :

Ch 2, then work 1 hdc into each of the 50 ch [50]

Round 2-5 :

Working into the BLO, place 1 hdc in every stitch for these four rounds [50]

Round 6 :

Working into the BLO, work 1 hdc into the next stitch only [1]

Info :

Fasten off. Wrap the yarn tail around the center of the bow several times to pinch it together. Secure the ends.

Bow Centre :

Ch 12. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 10 ch [11]. Rows 2-3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across [11]. Fasten off.

Neckband :

Ch 32. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 30 ch [31]. Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across [31]. Fasten off.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position the muzzle over rounds 15 to 19 of the head, ensuring the nostrils point upward. Stuff it lightly before sewing it down completely.
  • Attach the body to the head so the opening covers rounds 26 to 28 of the head. Tilt the head slightly to the side for a more charming look.
  • Sew the arms between rounds 23 and 24 of the body, keeping the front edges about 7 stitches apart.
  • Attach the legs to the body between rounds 7 and 12. Position them slightly behind the side midline and add extra stitches along the sides to keep them from splaying.
  • Sew the ears between rounds 7 and 8 of the head, spaced about 18 stitches apart at the front. Attach the horns to the top of the head between rounds 4 and 6, just inside the ears.
  • Attach the tail to the back centered between the legs over rounds 7 and 8. Finally, assemble the bow, wrap it with the center piece, and sew it onto the neckband before securing it around Asher's neck.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always use a stitch marker at the beginning of your rounds to keep track of your place, as this pattern is worked in a continuous spiral.
  • 💡To achieve a clean look, use invisible decreases (working through front loops only) for all shaping on the head and body.
  • 💡Stuffing is key to Asher's shape; ensure the head and body are very firm, but go lighter on the upper parts of the arms and legs to allow for movement.
  • 💡When working the bow and neckband, leave extra-long yarn tails at the start and end to make sewing the pieces together much easier.
  • 💡The brass jump ring is an optional detail, but it adds a wonderful touch of character—just make sure it is secured tightly through a stitch.

I am so incredibly happy you chose to spend your crafting time with Asher the Ox! There is something so rewarding about finishing those final assembly steps and seeing a pile of crocheted pieces turn into a little friend with a soul. I hope you enjoyed every single stitch, from the squishy body to that final, perfect bow. Don't forget to share your finished photos with the community—we all love seeing your unique color choices! Keep that creative spark glowing and enjoy your new handmade companion. Happy crocheting! 🧶✨

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FAQs

What kind of yarn is best if I can't find the specific brand?

Any DK weight or Sport weight organic cotton will work beautifully. Just ensure you choose a yarn with good stitch definition so the bobble nostrils and bow texture really stand out.

How do I make sure the nostrils are symmetrical?

When working Round 2 of the muzzle, make sure your starting chain wasn't twisted. After finishing, use your finger to poke the bobbles out from the inside so they sit evenly on the face.

Can I use larger safety eyes for a cuter look?

You can, but keep in mind that 6mm eyes are scaled for this specific head size. If you go larger, you may need to increase the spacing between them to keep the proportions balanced.

Is the jump ring safe for toys given to babies?

If you are making Asher for a young child, I recommend embroidering a small 'ring' with gold thread instead of using a metal jump ring to avoid any choking hazards.

My bow looks a bit floppy, how can I fix it?

Make sure you wrap the yarn tail tightly around the center several times before adding the center strip. You can also add a tiny bit of fabric stiffener or a few extra stitches to the 'wings' to hold them against the neckband.