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Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern
3.9★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
3.4KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This charming rabbit is a wonderful choice for anyone looking to create a thoughtful handmade gift. Its sturdy base allows it to sit perfectly on a nursery shelf or a desk as a sweet companion.

Why You'll Love This Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love how the ears are constructed by joining two circles together—it gives them a wonderful weight and professional finish that single-layer ears just can't match. Plus, the seamless transition from the head to the body makes the shaping process feel so much more intuitive as you work.

Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I’ve always felt that bunnies are the quintessential amigurumi project. There’s just something about those long ears and that round, sit-anywhere body that makes them so satisfying to finish. When I first worked on this design, I spent a lot of time thinking about the ears. Most patterns just have you make one flat piece, but by making two separate circles and joining them, you get this lovely pop of contrasting color that really brings the character to life.

I recommend using a slightly smaller hook than you might usually pick for this weight of yarn. It keeps the stitches nice and tight so that your stuffing doesn't peek through when you're shaping the head and body. If you’re making this for a baby, definitely swap the safety eyes for some simple embroidery to keep it extra safe. I love using a soft, dusty rose or a vibrant peach for this rabbit—it really highlights the sweet expression. It’s a wonderful weekend project that you can easily finish while catching up on your favorite show. I can't wait to see the colors you choose for your own little bunny family!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When attaching the eyes, make sure they are exactly on Round 8; placing them even one row higher or lower completely changes the bunny's expression.✗ If you don't stuff the neck area firmly enough between Round 17 and 21, the head may wobble or tilt forward once the heavy ears are attached.✗ On Round 3 of the legs, ensure you only work in the back loops (bl); skipping this technique will lose the flat-bottomed shape required for the feet.✗ When sewing the ears, if you don't sew back to the bottom edge after pinching them, they might flop outward instead of standing upright.

Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

You are going to love watching this sweet little rabbit come to life under your crochet hook! With its classic pear-shaped body and uniquely layered ears, this project is as fun to assemble as it is to stitch. Whether you're making a new best friend for a little one or adding a touch of handmade charm to your own shelf, this pattern offers a relaxing and rewarding crafting experience you'll want to repeat in every color.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Blushing Bunny Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    100% Acrylic yarn in Light Pink (approx. 100g/200m)
  • 02
    100% Acrylic yarn in Dark Pink (approx. 100g/200m)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Two 8mm black safety eyes
  • 03
    Soft polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Purple embroidery thread for the nose detail
  • 05
    Yarn needle for assembly
  • 06
    Sharp scissors
  • 07
    Stitch markers to track rounds

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head and Body :

Round 1 :

Start by creating a mr and working 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Work 2 sc into every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (18)

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (18)

Round 5 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (18)

Round 6 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (18)

Round 7 :

Work a sequence of 2 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (24)

Round 8 :

Work a sequence of 3 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (30)

Round 9 :

Work a sequence of 4 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (36)

Round 10 :

Work a sequence of 5 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (42)

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (42)

Round 12 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (42)

Info :

Insert the safety eyes at Round 8, leaving a gap of 8 stitches (or 7 holes) between them.

Round 13 :

Work a sequence of 5 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (36)

Round 14 :

Work a sequence of 4 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (30)

Round 15 :

Work a sequence of 3 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (24)

Round 16 :

Work a sequence of 2 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (18)

Round 17 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (18)

Round 18 :

Work a sequence of 4 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 3 times total (15)

Round 19 :

Work a sequence of 2 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 5 times total (20)

Round 20 :

Work a sequence of 4 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 4 times total (24)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head firmly and shaping it as you go.

Round 21 :

Work a sequence of 3 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (30)

Round 22 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 23 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 24 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 25 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 26 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 27 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 28 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (30)

Round 29 :

Work a sequence of 3 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (24)

Round 30 :

Work a sequence of 2 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (18)

Info :

Finish stuffing the body firmly, paying extra attention to the neck area so it stays upright.

Round 31 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 6 times total (12)

Round 32 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 4 times total (8)

Round 33 :

Finish with 1 sc2tog, then fasten off. Weave the yarn tail through the remaining stitches to pull the hole closed and hide the end inside the body.

— 2. Legs :

Info :

Start this section using the dark pink yarn.

Round 1 :

ch 6, then work 2 sc in the second ch from the hook. sc in the next 3 st, then 4 sc in the final ch. Rotate your work to the opposite side of the chain, sc in the next 3 st, and finish with 2 sc in the last ch (14)

Round 2 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 7 times total (21)

Round 3 :

Work 1 sc in the bl of every st around (21)

Colour Change :

Switch to light pink yarn.

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (21)

Round 5 :

Work 7 sc, then 4 sc2tog, followed by 6 sc (17)

Round 6 :

Work 6 sc, then 3 sc2tog, followed by 5 sc (14)

Round 7 :

Work 1 sc2tog, then 10 sc, and finish with 1 sc2tog (12)

Info :

Stuff and shape the foot area, but do not add stuffing to the top of the leg.

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc2tog, then 8 sc, and finish with 1 sc2tog (10)

Round 9 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (10)

Round 10 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (10)

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (10)

Round 12 :

Work 1 sc2tog, then 6 sc, and finish with 1 sc2tog (8)

Round 13 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (8)

Round 14 :

Press the top opening of the leg flat and work 1 sc through both layers across the top to close it. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

— 3. Arms :

Round 1 :

Using light pink yarn, start with 6 sc in a mr (6)

Round 2 :

Work 2 sc into every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (12)

Round 4 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 4 times total (8)

Round 5 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (8)

Round 6 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (8)

Round 7 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (8)

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc into every st around (8)

Info :

Stuff the hand lightly, leaving the upper arm empty. sl st in the next st and fasten off with a long tail.

— 4. Ears :

Info :

You will need to make 2 circles in dark pink and 2 circles in light pink using the steps below.

Round 1 :

Start with 6 sc in a mr (6)

Round 2 :

Work 2 sc into every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (18)

Round 4 :

Work a sequence of 2 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (24)

Round 5 :

Work a sequence of 3 sc followed by 1 inc, repeating this 6 times total (30)

Info :

Fasten off the first piece and weave in the ends. After finishing the second piece, do not cut the yarn.

Joining :

Place one dark pink and one light pink circle together with wrong sides facing. Crochet around the edges through both layers using sc to join them. sl st in the next st and fasten off with a long tail.

— 5. Tail :

Round 1 :

Using light pink yarn, start with 6 sc in a mr (6)

Round 2 :

Work 2 sc into every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Work a sequence of 1 sc followed by 1 sc2tog, repeating this 4 times total (8)

Info :

Add a small amount of stuffing to the tail. sl st in the next st and fasten off with a long sewing tail.

Assembly Instructions

  • Embroider the nose by making a vertical stitch across 3 rounds at the center of the face (Round 8), then add horizontal stitches across 2 stitches until the nose is filled.
  • Fold each joined ear circle in half to create a pinch at the base, sew 4 stitches together to hold the fold, and then attach them to the head just under Round 5.
  • Position the arms on the sides of the body immediately below Round 19 and sew them in place securely.
  • Sew the flattened tops of the legs to the front of the body just above Round 31, making sure they are positioned so the bunny can sit without tipping.
  • Pin the tail to the lower center of the bunny's back and sew it firmly in place.
  • Knot all yarn ends together and hide them deep inside the body to ensure a clean finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡This pattern is worked in a continuous spiral, so always use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round.
  • 💡Keep your stitches tight to prevent the polyester stuffing from showing through the fabric of your bunny.
  • 💡If this toy is intended for a child under three years old, please embroider the eyes instead of using plastic safety eyes for safety.
  • 💡When sewing the flat pieces (arms, legs, ears) to the body, use the mattress stitch for a professional, seamless look.
  • 💡Ensure the bottom of the body is stuffed flatly and firmly to give the rabbit a stable base for sitting.

Your new blushing bunny is ready to find its forever home! I hope you enjoyed every stitch of this project, from that first magic ring to the final assembly of those adorable folded ears. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of seeing a pile of crocheted parts finally turn into a character with a personality of its own. Whether this rabbit is destined for a gift box or a spot on your own shelf, it carries the care and time you put into every round. Don't forget to give it a little squeeze once it's finished—you've earned it! I'm so glad I could share this pattern with you. Happy crocheting! ✨

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FAQs

What yarn weight works best if I can't find the specific brand mentioned?

Any DK or light worsted weight acrylic yarn will work perfectly. Just make sure to use a 3.0mm hook to keep the fabric dense enough to hold the stuffing.

How do I make the bunny sit upright without falling over?

The key is in the stuffing of the lower body and the placement of the legs. Stuff the bottom very firmly and flatten it with your palm before closing. When sewing the legs, place them slightly towards the front to act as a tripod with the tail.

Can I use different sized safety eyes?

Yes, but it will change the look! 8mm eyes give it a sweet, classic look. If you go larger, the bunny will look more 'kawaii' or cartoonish. Just ensure they are secured tightly before stuffing the head.

Is the head and body really made in one piece?

Yes! You start at the top of the head and work down to the base of the body. This creates a much stronger neck and saves you from one of the most difficult sewing steps in amigurumi.