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Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern

Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★Rating
10-12 HoursTime Needed
2.3KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern

Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This pattern makes a fantastic centerpiece for any fan's collection or a high-end gift for a special occasion. She looks professionally made and holds her shape beautifully once all the prickles are attached.

Why You'll Love This Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern

I honestly had the best time designing the prickles—they give her that unmistakable look without being a nightmare to sew on. Plus, there is something so satisfying about finishing that oversized hammer and seeing the whole character finally 'click' together!

Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There is something so nostalgic about making characters from our favorite childhood games. When I first started designing this pink hedgehog, I knew I had to get the 'attitude' just right—the big eyes, the confident smirk, and of course, that massive hammer! Working with plush yarn can be a bit of a learning curve if you are used to thinner cotton, but the result is so worth it. The way the stitches disappear into that soft texture makes the finished toy look like something you’d find in a high-end boutique.

One tip I always share with my friends is to be really patient with the assembly. Because there are so many pieces—the ears, the bangs, and all those prickles—it is easy to get a little rushed at the end. I highly recommend pinning everything in place first. Step back, look at her from the front and the sides, and make sure she has that iconic silhouette before you pick up your sewing needle. It makes all the difference in the world! I hope you enjoy every stitch of this journey as much as I did. Happy crafting!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the fingers for the palm, it is easy to twist the pieces; ensure all your right sides are facing out before you start Round 7.✗ The muzzle tightening requires a very strong nylon thread; if you use regular cotton, it might snap when you pull to create the smile shape.✗ If you do not stuff the ankles firmly enough, the legs might bend under the weight of the large head and prickles once the toy is fully assembled.✗ The front stripe on the boot needs to be sewn perfectly straight; if it slants even a little, the whole boot will look lopsided from the front.

Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern

If you have been looking for a project that really shows off your skills, this spunky hedgehog is it! She is packed with personality, featuring her iconic red dress and that massive signature hammer. I have designed this to be an engaging challenge that results in a high-quality, professional-looking plushie that any gaming fan would treasure. You will love seeing her classic silhouette come together piece by piece.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Pink Rascal Hedgehog Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Super bulky plush yarn like Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce in Pink (approx 2 to 2.5 skeins).
  • 02
    Small amounts of plush yarn in White, Red, Ivory, Mustard, and Grey for the outfit and accessories.
  • 03
    Semi-cotton yarn in Black for the pupils and nose details.
  • 04
    Matching sewing thread or thin cotton yarn to securely attach the plush pieces.

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5 mm crochet hook (or size needed to achieve a tight, gap-free fabric).
  • 02
    Extra long tapestry needle (around 12 cm) for facial sculpting and tightening.
  • 03
    Strong nylon thread or heavy-duty cotton for the muzzle shaping.
  • 04
    High-quality polyester fiberfill for a firm, even shape.
  • 05
    Stitch markers and several large-headed pins for positioning parts.
  • 06
    Optional: insulated copper or steel wire for the hammer handle support.

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Thumb (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2-5 :

1 sc in every st (6)

Info :

Do not stuff. ch 1, fold the piece flat and sc the edges together using 3 sc. Cut and fasten.

— 2. Fingers (Make 4 per hand) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2-6 :

1 sc in every st (6)

Info :

Fasten off for the first three fingers. On the fourth finger, do not cut the yarn; we will use it to join all fingers together.

— 3. Arms and Hands :

Round 7 :

3 sc on finger 1, 3 sc on finger 2, 3 sc on finger 3, 6 sc on finger 4, 3 sc on finger 3, 3 sc on finger 2, 3 sc on finger 1 (24)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in every st (24)

Round 13 (Left) :

1 sc, 3 sc through both the hand and the thumb piece, 20 sc (24)

Round 13 (Right) :

8 sc, 3 sc through both the hand and the thumb piece, 13 sc (24)

Round 14 :

(10 sc, dec) * 2 (22)

Round 15 :

(9 sc, dec) * 2 (20)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, dec) * 4 (16)

Round 17 :

(2 sc, dec) * 4 (12)

Colour Change :

Switch to ivory yarn and fasten off the white.

Round 18 :

(4 sc, dec) * 2 (10)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, dec) * 2 (8)

Round 20 :

(2 sc, dec) * 2 (6)

Info :

Stuff the palm lightly so it remains flat. Do not stuff the rest of the arm.

Round 21-30 :

1 sc in every st (6)

Info :

ch 1, fold the arm flat and join the top with 3 sc. Fasten off.

— 4. Bracelets (Make 2) :

Round 0 :

Using mustard yarn, ch 8 and join with ss to form a ring.

Round 1 :

ch 1, 8 sc worked into the chain (8)

Round 2-22 :

1 sc in every st (8)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a tail. Sew the ends together to form a donut shape, slide onto the arm and secure between rounds 15 and 16.

— 5. Tail :

Row 0 :

Using pink yarn, ch 3.

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc (2)

Row 2-4 :

ch 1, turn, 2 sc (2)

Row 5 :

ch 1, turn, skip 1 st, 1 sc (1)

Row 6-7 :

ch 1, turn, 1 sc (1)

Info :

Work a series of ss down the side of the piece to return to the base. Fasten off.

— 6. Legs (Make 2) :

Round 0 :

Using grey yarn, ch 12.

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch, 10 sc, 5 sc in the last st. On the other side of the chain: 9 sc, inc (26)

Round 2 :

inc, 10 sc, 3 sc in one st, 1 sc, 3 sc in one st, 10 sc, 2 inc (33)

Round 3 :

1 sc, inc, 11 sc, 3 sc in one st, 3 sc, 3 sc in one st, 11 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 (40)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 12 sc, 3 sc in one st, 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 12 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 2 (47)

Colour Change :

Switch to red yarn but do not cut the grey thread yet.

Round 5 :

blo: 47 sc (47)

Round 6 :

16 sc, dec3, 5 sc, dec3, 20 sc (43)

Info :

Switch back to grey yarn temporarily. Work 47 ss in the front loops of Round 4. Fasten off the grey.

Round 7 :

15 sc, dec3, 3 sc, dec3, 19 sc (39)

Round 8 :

14 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 18 sc (35)

Round 9 :

12 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 16 sc (31)

Round 10 :

10 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 14 sc (27)

Round 11 :

8 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 12 sc (23)

Round 12 :

6 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 10 sc (19)

Round 13 :

4 sc, dec3, 1 sc, dec3, 8 sc (15)

Info :

Stuff the foot firmly, ensuring the toe keeps its square shape.

Colour Change :

Switch to pink yarn. Keep the red thread on the outside for later.

Round 14 :

blo: (3 sc, dec) * 3 (12)

Round 15 :

(2 sc, dec) * 3 (9)

Round 16 :

3 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec (7)

Round 17-30 :

1 sc in every st (7)

— 7. Boot Upper Edge :

Info :

Return to the red yarn at Round 13 of the leg.

Round 1 :

flo: 15 sc (15)

Round 2-4 :

1 sc in every st (15)

Colour Change :

Switch to white yarn and cut the red.

Round 5 :

flo: (4 sc, inc) * 3 (18)

Round 6 :

(5 sc, inc) * 3 (21)

Round 7 :

1 sc in every st (21)

— 8. Boot Front Stripe (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using white yarn, ch 18.

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch, 17 sc (17)

Info :

Fasten off and sew vertically onto the front of the boot.

— 9. Body :

Round 31 :

Join legs with a white ch 3. 7 sc on left leg, 3 sc on ch, 7 sc on right leg, 3 sc on other side of ch (20)

Round 32 :

(1 sc, inc) * 10 (30)

Round 33 :

1 sc in every st (30)

Round 34 :

27 sc, 2 sc through both body and tail, 1 sc (30)

Round 35 :

(8 sc, dec) * 3 (27)

Round 36 :

(7 sc, dec) * 3 (24)

Round 37 :

(6 sc, dec) * 3 (21)

Colour Change :

Switch to red yarn.

Round 38 :

(5 sc, dec) * 3 (18)

Round 39 :

blo: 18 sc (18)

Round 40 :

1 sc in every st (18)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, inc) * 3 (21)

Round 42 :

1 sc in every st (21)

Round 43 :

(6 sc, inc) * 3 (24)

Round 44 :

1 sc in every st (24)

Round 45 :

(6 sc, dec) * 3 (21)

Round 46 :

(5 sc, dec) * 3 (18)

Round 47 :

4 sc, 3 sc through both body and arm, 6 sc, 3 sc through both body and other arm, 2 sc (18)

Round 48 :

Using white yarn, 18 sc (18)

— 10. Skirt :

Info :

Attach red yarn to the front loops of Round 38 of the body, holding the toy upside down.

Round 1 :

flo: (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)

Round 2 :

(3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)

Round 3 :

(4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)

Round 4 :

(5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)

Round 5 :

(6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)

Round 6 :

(7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)

Round 7 :

(8 sc, inc) * 6 (60)

Round 8 :

(9 sc, inc) * 6 (66)

Colour Change :

Switch to white yarn.

Round 9 :

(10 sc, inc) * 6 (72)

Round 10 :

(11 sc, inc) * 6 (78)

— 11. Head :

Info :

Continue from the body using pink yarn.

Round 49 :

(1 sc, inc) * 9 (27)

Round 50 :

(2 sc, inc) * 9 (36)

Round 51 :

(5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)

Round 52 :

(6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)

Round 53-56 :

1 sc in every st (48)

Round 57 :

(15 sc, inc) * 3 (51)

Round 58 :

(16 sc, inc) * 3 (54)

Round 59-61 :

1 sc in every st (54)

Round 62 :

(17 sc, inc) * 3 (57)

Round 63 :

(18 sc, inc) * 3 (60)

Round 64 :

1 sc in every st (60)

Round 65 :

(8 sc, dec) * 6 (54)

Round 66 :

(7 sc, dec) * 6 (48)

Round 67 :

(6 sc, dec) * 6 (42)

Round 68 :

(5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)

Round 69 :

(4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)

Round 70 :

(3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)

Round 71 :

(2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)

Round 72 :

(1 sc, dec) * 6 (12)

Round 73 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Do not close the hole yet; it is needed for sculpting the face. Fasten off leaving a long tail.

— 12. Muzzle :

Round 0 :

Using ivory yarn, ch 14.

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch, 12 sc, 3 sc in last st. On other side: 11 sc, inc (28)

Round 2 :

inc, 11 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 3 sc in one st, 5 sc, 2 inc (36)

Round 3 :

1 sc, inc, 11 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3, 6 sc, 3 sc in one st, 6 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 (44)

Round 4-5 :

1 sc in every st (44)

Info :

Fold the piece and sew 3 ss across the top center to create a peaked shape. Turn inside out.

— 13. Nose :

Round 1 :

Using black semi-cotton, 6 sc in MR (6)

Round 2-3 :

1 sc in every st (6)

— 14. Eyes :

Round 0 :

Using white yarn, ch 5.

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd ch, 3 sc, 3 sc in last st. On other side: 2 sc, inc (10)

Round 2 :

inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc (16)

Round 3 :

1 sc, inc, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 2 (22)

Info :

Make two. Join them together with 3 ss in the center.

Eyelid :

Attach pink yarn to the outer edge and work 14 sc, 1 sc in center, 14 sc (29). Fasten off.

— 15. Prickles (Hair) :

Front Piece :

Work a cone shape increasing to 24 sc over 11 rounds. Rounds 12-14: dec, 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, dec (24). Flatten and join with 12 sc.

Back Piece :

Work a cone shape increasing to 26 sc over 11 rounds. Rounds 12-23: 26 sc. Flatten and join with 13 sc.

Central Piece :

Work a cone shape increasing to 36 sc over 11 rounds. Rounds 12-19: 36 sc. Flatten and join with 18 sc.

— 16. Hammer :

Round 1-7 :

Using mustard yarn, increase from 8 sc to 56 sc.

Round 8 :

blo: 56 sc (56)

Round 9 :

1 sc in every st (56)

Round 10 :

blo: 56 sc (56)

Round 11 :

(5 sc, dec) * 8 (48)

Round 12 :

Using grey yarn, (4 sc, dec) * 8 (40)

Round 13-26 :

Using red yarn, 1 sc in every st (40)

Round 27-37 :

Reverse the increase pattern using grey and mustard yarn to close the hammer head.

Assembly Instructions

  • Slide the mustard bracelets onto the arms and secure them with a few stitches between Rounds 15 and 16.
  • Position the white eye assembly on the head between Rounds 7 and 15, ensuring they are centered.
  • Sew the ivory muzzle to the head between Rounds 1 and 7, stuffing it slightly while keeping the bottom flat.
  • Attach the black nose to the muzzle, two rows below the top seam, then pull it up slightly and secure it one row higher.
  • Use a long needle and strong nylon thread to sculpt the muzzle and embroider the smile through the open hole at the top of the head.
  • Sew the ears to the sides of the head at Rounds 17-22 and arrange the various prickles according to the character's hairstyle.
  • Finally, attach the handle to the center of the hammer head, using wire for support if desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡Keep your tension very firm throughout, especially when working with plush yarn, to prevent the stuffing from showing through.
  • 💡Always use a stitch marker to track the beginning of your rounds, as plush yarn makes it difficult to see individual stitches.
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use a matching thin cotton yarn rather than the plush yarn itself for a much stronger and neater finish.
  • 💡Do not close the top of the head until all facial sculpting and embroidery are complete, as you will need the opening to hide knots.
  • 💡If the boots feel unstable, insert a small piece of plastic or cardboard into the sole before stuffing to provide a flat base.

I am so incredibly proud of you for taking on this project! Amigurumi with this many parts is no small feat, but the payoff of seeing her stand there with her hammer is just the best feeling. I hope this pattern brings a little bit of gaming magic into your home and that you enjoyed the process of building her piece by piece. Don't forget to give her a little squeeze when she's all finished—she's as soft as she is spunky! I can't wait to see your finished versions. Keep on hooking and keep creating beautiful things! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

You can, but keep in mind this pattern was designed for super bulky chenille yarn. If you switch to DK weight cotton, the finished toy will be significantly smaller (around 6-7 inches) and you will need to adjust your hook size accordingly.

How do I make the hammer stand upright?

The pattern suggests using an insulated copper or steel wire inside the handle that extends into the hammer head. This provides the structural integrity needed to keep the heavy plush head from drooping.

Is the muzzle supposed to be stuffed fully?

Not quite! You should stuff the top and sides of the muzzle to give it volume, but leave the bottom part relatively empty. This allows it to sit flush against the face and look more like the character's actual muzzle shape.

My stitch counts are shifting as I work. What should I do?

Plush yarn often causes the beginning of the round to shift slightly to the right. Use the 'shifting stitch' method mentioned in the pattern: work one or two extra stitches at the end of a round to realign your marker with the center back of the piece.