🧢 Beautiful ✨ Detailed πŸ’ Adorable

Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern
4.1β˜…Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
2.5KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This pattern makes a beautiful handmade gift β€” thoughtful enough for someone special, but quick enough to make a few before the holidays.

Why You'll Love This Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

I honestly couldn't stop squishing the bobbles while I was making this! There's something so satisfying about watching the texture grow round by round. It’s a great way to practice your bobble stitches while creating something genuinely adorable that everyone will want to touch.

Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There is something about the rhythm of bobble stitches that just puts me in a meditative state. When I first sat down to work on a sheep design, I knew it had to be as tactile as possible. This pattern really delivers on that front! I usually suggest using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends for amigurumi, and that is especially true here. You want those bobbles to be tight and firm so they pop out beautifully from the fabric.

One thing I discovered while making my prototypes is how much the face shaping changes the whole vibe. Don't be afraid to really give those yarn tails a firm tug when you are setting the eyes. It creates that lovely 'eye socket' look that makes the sheep look much more professional and soulful. If you are feeling adventurous, you could even try this in a variegated yarn for a funky, colorful fleece, though a classic cream really lets the texture shine. I hope you enjoy every stitch of this make as much as I did. It is a true labor of love that results in a wonderful companion!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— If you forget to push the bobbles to the front of your work while crocheting, they might end up facing the wrong way inside the head or body.βœ— When switching from white to gray on the head at Round 21, ensure your tension stays even or the face might look lopsided compared to the fleece.βœ— Attaching the legs too close together at the bottom of the body can make the sheep unstable when sitting; aim for about 4 or 5 bobbles of space between them.βœ— Pulling the yarn too tightly during the face shaping can cause the safety eyes to sink too deep into the head, making the expression look a bit pinched.

Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

You're going to love how this little sheep comes together! With its textured bobble fleece and sweet gray face, it's a project that feels as good as it looks. It's the kind of make that makes you want to reach out and squish it as soon as it's finished. Your fingers will stay busy with all those plump clusters, but the end result is so worth the effort.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Bobble Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approximately 90g of white DK weight yarn for the fleece
  • 02
    Approximately 40g of gray DK weight yarn for the face and limbs
  • 03
    Small amount of pink and black cotton embroidery floss for the facial details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    2.50mm to 3.00mm crochet hook
  • 02
    12mm safety eyes or buttons
  • 03
    Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
  • 04
    Yarn needle for assembly
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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β€” 1. Head :

Info :

The fleece section is worked in joined rounds. Start each round in the same stitch as your join. Do not count the chain or slip stitch as a stitch.

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, 10 sc into mr, sl st to first sc (10)

Round 2 :

ch 1, (1 sc, bo & 1 sc in the next st) x 5, sl st to first sc (15)

Round 3 :

ch 1, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sl st to first sc (20)

Round 4 :

ch 1, (1 sc, bo & 1 sc in the next st) x 10, sl st to first sc (30)

Round 5 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (30)

Round 6 :

ch 1, (bo & 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc) x 15, sl st to first bo (45)

Round 7 :

ch 1, (4 sc, inc) x 9, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 8 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 18, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 9 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 10 :

ch 1, 1 sc, bo, (2 sc, bo) x 17, 1 sc, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 11 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 12 :

ch 1, (bo, 2 sc) x 18, sl st to first bo (54)

Round 13 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 14 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 18, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 15 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 16 :

ch 1, 1 sc, bo, (2 sc, bo) x 17, 1 sc, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 17 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (54)

Round 18 :

ch 1, (bo, 2 sc) x 18, sl st to first bo (54)

Round 19 :

ch 1, (4 sc, sc2tog) x 9, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 20 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 15, sl st to first sc (45)

Colour Change :

Fasten off the white yarn. Attach gray yarn with a sl st in the first stitch. From here, you will work in a continuous spiral.

Round 21 :

sl st (counts as first st), 13 sc, sc2tog, (2 sc, sc2tog) x 4, 13 sc (40)

Round 22 :

sc in each st around (40)

Round 23 :

(6 sc, dec) x 5 (35)

Round 24-25 :

sc in each st around (35)

Round 26 :

2 sc, dec, (5 sc, dec) x 4, 3 sc (30)

Round 27 :

sc in each st around (30)

Info :

Insert 12mm safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25. There should be 14 stitches between them (count 13 holes). Begin stuffing the head firmly.

Round 28 :

(4 sc, dec) x 5 (25)

Round 29 :

sc in each st around (25)

Round 30 :

1 sc, dec, (3 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (20)

Round 31 :

(dec, 8 sc) x 2 (18)

Round 32 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 33 :

6 x dec (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing, fasten off, and use the yarn tail to close the remaining hole.

β€” 2. Ears :

Info :

Make two using gray yarn. Work in a continuous spiral.

Round 1 :

6 sc into mr (6)

Round 2 :

(inc, 1 sc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (3 sc, inc) x 2, 2 sc (15)

Round 5 :

(4 sc, inc) x 3 (18)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc (21)

Round 7-12 :

sc in each st around (21)

Round 13 :

dec, 9 sc, dec, 8 sc (19)

Round 14 :

sc in each st around (19)

Round 15 :

14 sc, dec, 3 sc (18)

Round 16 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, 8 sc (16)

Info :

Flatten the ear and sc across the top opening to close it. Leave a tail for sewing.

β€” 3. Body :

Info :

The body is worked in joined rounds like the head fleece. Start each round in the same stitch as the join.

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, 10 sc into mr, sl st to first sc (10)

Round 2 :

ch 1, (1 sc, bo & 1 sc in the next st) x 5, sl st to first sc (15)

Round 3 :

ch 1, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sl st to first sc (20)

Round 4 :

ch 1, (1 sc, bo & 1 sc in the next st) x 10, sl st to first sc (30)

Round 5 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (30)

Round 6 :

ch 1, (bo & 1 sc in the next st, 1 sc) x 15, sl st to first bo (45)

Round 7 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 8 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 15, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 9 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 10 :

ch 1, 1 sc, bo, (2 sc, bo) x 14, 1 sc, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 11 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 12 :

ch 1, (bo, 2 sc) x 15, sl st to first bo (45)

Round 13 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 14 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 15, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 15 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 16 :

ch 1, 1 sc, bo, (2 sc, bo) x 14, 1 sc, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 17 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (45)

Round 18 :

ch 1, (bo, 2 sc) x 15, sl st to first bo (45)

Round 19 :

ch 1, (13 sc, sc2tog) x 3, sl st to first sc (42)

Round 20 :

ch 1, (2 sc, bo) x 14, sl st to first sc (42)

Round 21 :

ch 1, 4 sc, sc2tog, (2 sc, sc2tog) x 8, 4 sc, sl st to first sc (33)

Round 22 :

ch 1, 1 sc, bo, (2 sc, bo) x 10, 1 sc, sl st to first sc (33)

Round 23 :

ch 1, (3 sc, sc2tog) x 6, 3 sc, sl st to first sc (27)

Round 24 :

ch 1, (bo, 2 sc) x 9, sl st to first bo (27)

Round 25 :

ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (27)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail. Stuff the body firmly.

β€” 4. Arms :

Info :

Make two using gray yarn. Work in a continuous spiral.

Round 1 :

6 sc into mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 x inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2 sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

8 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec) x 2, 8 sc (21)

Round 6 :

sc in each st around (21)

Round 7 :

10 sc, dec, 9 sc (20)

Round 8 :

7 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc (18)

Round 9 :

(dec, 7 sc) x 2 (16)

Round 10 :

7 sc, dec, 7 sc (15)

Info :

Stuff the hand firmly. Create a deep vertical stitch on the front of the hoof by pulling the yarn very tight and knotting it inside.

Round 11 :

4 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 4 sc (13)

Round 12-14 :

sc in each st around (13)

Round 15 :

6 sc, dec, 5 sc (12)

Round 16-18 :

sc in each st around (12)

Round 19 :

6 sc, dec, 4 sc (11)

Round 20-28 :

sc in each st around (11)

Round 29 :

9 sc, dec (10)

Info :

Stuff the arm lightly about two-thirds of the way up. sl st into the next st and fasten off with a long tail.

β€” 5. Legs :

Info :

Make two using gray yarn. Work in a continuous spiral.

Round 1 :

6 sc into mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 x inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(inc, 2 sc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

10 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 2, 10 sc (27)

Round 7 :

11 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 11 sc (25)

Round 8 :

(7 sc, dec) x 2, 7 sc (23)

Round 9 :

dec, 9 sc, dec, 10 sc (21)

Round 10 :

9 sc, dec, 10 sc (20)

Round 11 :

(5 sc, dec) x 2, 6 sc (18)

Round 12 :

8 sc, dec, 8 sc (17)

Info :

Stuff the hoof firmly and create the vertical hoof stitch as you did for the arms.

Round 13 :

7 sc, dec, 8 sc (16)

Round 14-15 :

sc in each st around (16)

Round 16 :

7 sc, dec, 7 sc (15)

Round 17-19 :

sc in each st around (15)

Round 20 :

7 sc, dec, 6 sc (14)

Round 21-31 :

sc in each st around (14)

Round 32 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4, 2 sc (10)

Info :

Stuff the leg lightly, sl st in the next st, and fasten off with a tail for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position the head onto the body so the front edge of the body sits just behind the final round of bobbles on the head, then sew them together using a whip stitch.
  • Before you fully close the neck seam, add a bit more stuffing to the neck area to ensure the head doesn't wobble.
  • Flatten the tops of the arms and sew them to the sides of the body, placing them just below the last round of bobbles.
  • Place the legs over the third round of bobbles at the bottom of the body, leaving a gap of 4 to 5 bobbles between them before sewing.
  • Pin the ears to the sides of the head, positioning them just behind the second to last round of bobbles.
  • Check the symmetry of all pieces from the front before finalizing your stitches.
  • Use pink embroidery floss to stitch a 'Y' shape for the nose and mouth, then use black floss for any additional facial details.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Always use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds, especially when transitioning between the joined fleece rounds and the spiral face rounds.
  • πŸ’‘To ensure your bobbles are plump and uniform, use your finger to push each cluster toward the right side of the fabric as you work.
  • πŸ’‘Stuffing is key for amigurumi; add it gradually and use a stuffing tool or the end of your hook to reach into the hooves and snout.
  • πŸ’‘When doing face shaping, pull your yarn tails firmly to create depth for the eye sockets, but be careful not to snap the yarn.
  • πŸ’‘For the best results, use the invisible decrease method throughout the smooth gray sections to avoid any visible gaps in the fabric.
  • πŸ’‘If you find your stitches are too loose and stuffing is showing through, try dropping down a half hook size.

There’s something so special about finishing a project with this much texture. I hope your new sheep brings a bit of handmade joy to your home or whoever is lucky enough to receive it as a gift. Don't forget to take a moment to admire those perfectly plump bobbles before you move on to your next project. It is a true labor of love that results in the most huggable little companion you could imagine. Happy crafting and enjoy your new woolly friend! 🧢 ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this sheep?

You certainly can, but keep in mind that using a heavier yarn like worsted will result in a much larger sheep. If you change weights, remember to adjust your hook size so the stitches remain tight enough to hold the stuffing.

How do I make the bobbles look more prominent?

The trick is to use your finger to physically push the bobble toward the front (the right side) of your work before you move on to the next stitch. Keeping your tension firm on the single crochet stitches between bobbles also helps them pop.

My face looks a bit flat, how can I fix it?

Face shaping is your best friend here! After you've finished the head, use a long piece of gray yarn to pull the eye areas inward toward each other from the bottom of the head. This creates those adorable 'sockets' and gives the snout more definition.

Is this pattern suitable for someone who has never made amigurumi?

It might be a bit of a challenge for a complete beginner because of the bobble stitches and the joined rounds. However, if you're comfortable with basic stitches and are ready to learn something new, the step-by-step instructions will guide you through!

How do I prevent the neck from being floppy?

The secret is to stuff both the body and the head very firmly, and then add that extra bit of stuffing into the neck gap right before you finish sewing the two pieces together.