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Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★Rating
3-5 HoursTime Needed
1.7KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Quick Craft

Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.

🐥

Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Bobby makes a wonderful handmade gift for anyone who loves wildlife, the outdoors, or just a really well-crafted amigurumi — thoughtful, unique, and nothing like anything you'd find in a shop.

Why You'll Love This Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

Honestly, I kept picking this one up between other projects because each individual piece is so small and quick. There's something really satisfying about finishing a leg in ten minutes flat, or watching those horns actually start to curl when you roll them back. The color changes in the head section feel like a little magic trick every time — white snout to brown head in one smooth transition. I also love that Bobby stands on his own once assembled; that always feels like such a win.

Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I'll be honest — I didn't expect to fall this hard for a sheep pattern. I started Bobby on a whim one Sunday afternoon when I wanted something manageable but still interesting, and by the time I'd finished the head I was already planning a second one in different colors.

What I really love about this project is how the pieces feel like little puzzles. The legs are tiny and satisfying to knock out in batches. The horns take more rounds than you'd expect for their size, and there's this specific moment when you roll them back and pin them to the head and suddenly — oh, there he is. That's the moment Bobby becomes Bobby.

One thing worth knowing before you start: the color change on the head at Round 2 feels a bit awkward at first glance. You're starting with white for just two rounds, which seems like very little. But that white section forms the entire snout and lower face, and once the safety eyes are in and the nose is stitched, it transforms. Trust the process on that one.

If you want to play with color, I think a grey body with cream horns would be stunning — almost like a snow sheep. A russet-red body with dark brown hooves would give a completely different wildlife feel. The construction is simple enough that swapping yarns doesn't require any adjustments to the actual counts.

The penny in the body is genuinely clever. I've made plenty of amigurumi that topple over the second you put them down, and the weighted base here means Bobby just... stands. Solidly. Like he owns the shelf.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When you change from white to brown yarn at the end of Round 2 on the head, it's tempting to pull the join too tight — this distorts the snout shape and makes it look pinched rather than rounded. Keep your tension relaxed through that transition stitch.✗ The safety eyes go between Rounds 5 and 6 with exactly 8 stitches between them — placing them even one stitch off will make Bobby look cross-eyed or uneven. Count carefully before you lock them in, because there's no fixing it after the backing snaps on.✗ The horns need to be rolled backward before sewing them down between Rounds 8 and 9 of the head — if you attach them pointing straight up first without rolling, you'll end up undoing your work. Dry-fit the curl and pin it before committing with your needle.✗ Stuffing the body too loosely before adding the penny weight means the figure will tip and won't stand properly once the legs are attached. Pack the fiberfill firmly around the coin so it sits low and centered in the body cavity.✗ On the legs, the BLO round at Round 2 creates the hoof ridge — skipping this and working through both loops flattens that definition entirely and the black hoof section loses its visual separation from the brown leg above it.✗ Front legs attach between body Rounds 4 and 6, back legs between Rounds 11 and 13 — swapping these placements makes Bobby look like his proportions are off. Pin all four legs symmetrically and stand the body up to check balance before sewing.

Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

This little guy is going to steal your heart before you even finish the first round. Bobby the Bighorn Sheep is a compact, satisfying crochet project that works up surprisingly fast — and the result is genuinely impressive. Those curled beige horns, the white snout patch, the tiny black hooves — every detail comes together into something that looks like it belongs on a nature photographer's shelf. You'll work through a handful of small pieces that each feel quick and manageable, and by the time you're sewing everything together, you'll already be thinking about who gets to keep him.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Bobby the Bighorn Sheep Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn in brown — used for the majority of the head, the entire body, most of the legs, and the tail
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn in white — used for the snout section of the head (Rounds 1–2) and the bottom portion of the body (Round 15 onward)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn in beige — used for both horns, worked with the smaller 3mm hook
  • 04
    Worsted weight yarn in black — used for the hoof base of each leg (Round 1 through part of Round 2), plus a small amount for stitching the mouth/nose detail

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm crochet hook — used for all main pieces
  • 02
    3mm crochet hook — used only for the two horns
  • 03
    6mm black safety eyes — one pair
  • 04
    Sewing needle with an eye large enough for worsted weight yarn
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Fiberfill stuffing
  • 07
    One penny or small coin — placed inside the body for weight so the finished sheep stands upright
  • 08
    Stitch markers or a row counter — helpful for tracking rounds

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Info :

Begin with white yarn.

Round 1 :

Work 6 SC into a MC. (6)

Round 2 :

INC in every stitch around. (12) — On the final stitch of this round, switch to brown yarn. All remaining head rounds are worked in brown.

Round 3 :

SC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 4 :

SC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 5 :

SC in the first 6 stitches, then INC in the next 6 stitches. (18)

Round 6 :

SC in every stitch around. (18)

Round 7 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 8 :

(3 SC, INC) repeat 6 times. (30)

Info :

Pause here to install the safety eyes and stitch the nose. Eyes sit between Rounds 5 and 6, spaced 8 stitches apart. The nose embroidery starts between Rounds 2 and 3 at the top and ends at the center of the original magic circle at the bottom.

Round 9 :

SC in every stitch around. (30)

Round 10 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 11 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times. (18)

Info :

Pause and add a light amount of stuffing to the head before continuing.

Round 12 :

(SC, DEC) repeat 6 times. (12) — Continue adding stuffing as you go to keep the head firm.

Round 13 :

SC in every stitch around. (6)

Info :

SL to close, then fasten off leaving a long yarn tail for attaching the head to the body.

— 2. Body :

Info :

Use brown yarn throughout until the color change noted below.

Round 1 :

Work 6 SC into a MC. (6)

Round 2 :

INC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

(SC, INC) repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 6 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 7 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 8 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 9 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 10 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 11 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 12 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 13 :

SC in every stitch around. (24)

Round 14 :

SC in every stitch around. (24) — Switch to white yarn on the last stitch of this round. At this point, lightly stuff the body and place a penny inside to add weight at the base.

Round 15 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 16 :

(SC, DEC) repeat 6 times. (12)

Info :

Stop and stuff the body generously so it holds a firm, upright shape.

Round 17 :

DEC 6 times. (6) SL and close the hole.

— 3. Legs (Make 4) :

Info :

Begin with black yarn.

Round 1 :

Work 5 SC into a MC. (5)

Round 2 :

SC in every stitch around working through the back loop only. Switch to brown yarn on the 5th stitch. (5)

Round 3 :

INC in the first stitch, then SC in the remaining 4 stitches. (6)

Round 4 :

SC in every stitch around. (6)

Round 5 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 2 times. (8)

Round 6 :

SC in every stitch around. (8)

Round 7 :

SC in every stitch around. (8)

Info :

SL to finish, stuff lightly with fiberfill, and leave a long tail for sewing onto the body.

— 4. Tail :

Info :

Use brown yarn.

Row 1 :

CH 4. SC in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each of the next 2 chains. SL in the last chain. Leave a long tail for attaching to the body.

— 5. Horns (Make 2) :

Info :

Use beige yarn and switch to the 3mm crochet hook for this section.

Round 1 :

Work 4 SC into a MC. (4)

Round 2 :

3 SC, then INC in the last stitch. (5)

Round 3 :

4 SC, then INC in the last stitch. (6)

Round 4 :

SC in every stitch around. (6)

Round 5 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 2 times. (8)

Round 6 :

SC in every stitch around. (8)

Round 7 :

SC in every stitch around. (8)

Round 8 :

(3 SC, INC) repeat 2 times. (10)

Round 9 :

SC in every stitch around. (10)

Round 10 :

4 SC, then INC 2 times. (12)

Round 11 :

SC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 12 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times. (9)

Round 13 :

SC in every stitch around. (9)

Info :

FO leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Stuff the horns lightly before attaching.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the completed head onto the body, positioning it so it sits between body Rounds 4 and 5. Use the long yarn tail from the head and work around the full base to secure it evenly.
  • Attach the tail to the back of the body, placing it roughly 2 rounds up from the bottom edge. Stitch it down neatly and weave in the end.
  • Take each horn and roll it backward on itself to form the characteristic bighorn curl. Pin it in position on the head between Rounds 8 and 9 before sewing, then stitch securely using the long yarn tail.
  • Sew the two front legs onto the underside of the body, centering their attachment between body Rounds 4 and 6 on each side. Pin both in place first and stand the body upright to check symmetry before sewing.
  • Attach the two back legs between body Rounds 11 and 13, again on either side of the body. Check that all four legs sit flat and that Bobby can stand independently before weaving in any ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout — if you usually work with UK terms, remember that SC here means single crochet, not double crochet.
  • 💡Work with a tighter tension than you normally would for amigurumi. A looser stitch fabric will show gaps when the piece is stuffed, and the fiberfill can start to peek through.
  • 💡The penny inside the body is what allows Bobby to stand upright on his own — don't skip it. A heavier coin or a small washer works just as well if you'd like to avoid currency.
  • 💡Stuff each leg before sewing it on, not after — once they're attached there's no easy way to add fill, and limp legs will prevent the finished figure from standing properly.
  • 💡The horns are worked with a smaller 3mm hook even though the rest of the pattern uses 3.5mm — this gives the horn fabric a denser structure that holds the curl shape much better once assembled.
  • 💡When scaling the pattern down using lighter yarn and a smaller hook, keep in mind that the penny weight will no longer be proportional — you may need to use a smaller washer or go without and accept that the miniature version won't stand freely.

Bobby has been one of my favorite makes for a while now — there's just something about that combination of a warm brown body and those chunky curled horns that makes him look genuinely lifelike for such a small piece. 🧶 He photographs beautifully, stands on his own, and takes up almost no space on a shelf. Whether you're making him for yourself or gifting him to someone who loves the outdoors, he's the kind of finished project that makes people do a double take. Give yourself an afternoon, put on something good to listen to, and enjoy every round. ✨ You're going to love how he turns out.

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I make Bobby without the penny inside?

You can, but he almost certainly won't stand on his own. The coin sits low in the body and acts as a counterweight for the head. If you're making him for a young child and can't include a coin for safety reasons, try adding a small bag of plastic pellets sewn shut inside instead — that distributes the weight without a hard object.

My horns won't hold their curl after I sew them on — what am I doing wrong?

This usually happens when the horns are overstuffed or when the 3.5mm hook was used instead of the 3mm. The smaller hook creates a tighter fabric that naturally wants to curve. If they're still flopping, add a small stitch through the horn body itself to tack the curl in place before attaching to the head.

How far apart should the safety eyes be, and what happens if I place them wrong?

The eyes should be exactly 8 stitches apart, positioned between Rounds 5 and 6 of the head. Once the safety eye backings are pressed on they cannot be removed without damaging the fabric, so count twice before locking them in. If you're unsure, use pins to mark the spots and step back to check the placement visually before committing.

Can I use a lighter yarn weight to make a smaller version of Bobby?

Yes — the pattern notes specifically mention this as an option. Dropping to DK weight with a 2.5mm hook will produce a noticeably smaller sheep. Just know that at that scale the penny trick won't work for balance, and some of the finer detail like the BLO hoof ridge gets harder to see.

The white snout area looks uneven where I changed to brown yarn — how do I neaten it up?

The color join at the end of Round 2 can look a little untidy until the head is stuffed and shaped. Once it's filled out, the seam naturally smooths. If there's still a visible gap or jog, use the white yarn tail to work a few small whip stitches across the join from the inside before closing up the head.