Perfect for those just starting their crocheting journey, with clear instructions and simple techniques
Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.
Small, sweet, and gift-worthy creations that fit perfectly in the palm of your hand with detailed charm.
These make the sweetest little gifts for teachers or coworkers who might not have a green thumb. They add a pop of cheerful color to any shelf or windowsill without any maintenance required.
I honestly love how satisfying it is to see the texture develop as you work the rows. It's one of those projects where you don't have to overthink the shaping, yet the result looks so professional once it's seamed and stuffed. Plus, there's no sewing on tiny limbs, which is always a win in my book!
I've always had a bit of a "black thumb" when it comes to real plants. No matter how much I try, succulents just don't seem to thrive under my care. That's why I absolutely fell in love with these crocheted versions! They give me all the aesthetic vibes of a desert garden without the heartbreak of a withered leaf. When I first made these, I was surprised by how much the 3.25mm hook mattered—it really keeps those stitches tight and crisp, which is exactly what you want so that the stuffing doesn't peek through the ridges.
I actually keep a trio of these on my desk right next to my computer. They're such a great conversation starter during video calls! If you want to customize yours, try adding tiny pink or yellow flowers to the top using a bit of embroidery thread. It takes just two minutes but adds so much personality to the little guys. Another fun trick is to use a slightly darker green yarn for the seam to give it a bit of natural shading. Whether you're making these for a housewarming gift or just to brighten up your own space, they are pure joy to create. Just be warned: once you make one, you'll probably want to make an entire greenhouse full of them! They're just that addictive to hook up.
These little cacti are the perfect desk companions because they never need watering and always stay green! You'll love how the ribbed texture mimics a real cactus, and since they work up so fast, you can make a whole desert's worth in just one afternoon. They're a fantastic way to use up those green yarn scraps you've been saving while creating something truly adorable for your home.
Start by making 11 ch, then skip the first ch from your hook and work 1 sc into each of the next 10 ch. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (10)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming the sides and cinching the ends.
Start by making 16 ch, then skip the first ch from your hook and work 1 sc into each of the next 15 ch. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (15)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming the sides and cinching the ends.
Start by making 21 ch, then skip the first ch from your hook and work 1 sc into each of the next 20 ch. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
ch 1 and turn your work, then work 1 sc into the blo of every st across the row. (20)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for seaming the sides and cinching the ends.
I hope you have as much fun making these little desert plants as I did! They are such a joy to whip up, especially when you need a quick win or a palate cleanser between bigger projects. Don't be afraid to experiment with different shades of green or even different yarn weights to create a whole variety of sizes for your windowsill. They look so charming when grouped together in different heights. Happy hooking, and may your home always be filled with handmade greenery! 🧶 ✨
The shape comes entirely from the assembly! Once you sew the sides together and cinch the top and bottom, the stuffing will puff it out into that classic cactus cylinder.
You can, but you'll need to use a thicker yarn to match. If you use a larger hook with worsted yarn, the stitches will be too loose and the stuffing will leak out between the ridges.
If it feels a bit wobbly, you can add a drop of hot glue to the bottom or stuff the bottom of the pot with a little extra yarn or fabric before popping the cactus in.
Yes! The back loop only (blo) technique is what creates the deep vertical ridges. If you work through both loops, you'll end up with a smooth fabric instead of the cactus texture.
