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Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern

Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★Rating
8-10 HoursTime Needed
3.6KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern

Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Perfect for advanced crafters who love a good challenge, this finished fox makes a spectacular gift for gamers or a centerpiece for a nostalgic nursery. The detailed assembly ensures he looks just like he jumped right out of the screen.

Why You'll Love This Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love how this fox's personality shines through once you finish the muzzle tightening! It's one of those projects where the extra effort in the assembly really pays off, making the final piece look like a professional collector's item. Plus, the way the tails are integrated into the body construction makes him surprisingly sturdy for such a detailed toy.

Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There is something so incredibly satisfying about making a character that was such a big part of my childhood. I remember playing those classic games for hours, and Tails was always my favorite! When I was designing this pattern, I really wanted to make sure the tails felt substantial—they are his most iconic feature, after all.

I found that using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label recommends really helps with the shaping, especially around the muzzle and the shoes. If you find your hands getting tired from the tight tension, take frequent breaks! Plush yarn can be a bit of a workout for your fingers.

For a fun variation, you could try using a yarn with a bit of shimmer for the white parts of the tails to give him a 'spinning' effect, or even use safety eyes if you prefer them over the crocheted eyes. Just remember that if you use safety eyes, you'll need to install them before you get too far into the head rounds. I personally love the crocheted eyes because they allow for more expression, but the choice is yours! I can't wait to see how yours turns out.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the fingers for the gloves at Round 7, ensure you don't accidentally twist the small tubes or the palm will become distorted and difficult to stuff.✗ The colorwork on the tail tips in Rounds 10 and 11 requires careful tension; if you pull the carried yarn too tight, the tail will pucker and lose its smooth, tapered shape.✗ Be very precise with the stitch marker shifts mentioned in the leg and arm sections; skipping these will cause the limbs to attach at the wrong angle, making the fox look off-balance.✗ If you close the head before performing the muzzle tightening, you won't be able to sculpt the cheeks properly—always keep that top hole open until the face is finished.

Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern

Get ready to bring a beloved video game icon to life! This pattern helps you craft the most famous flying sidekick in gaming history using wonderfully soft plush yarn. You'll love the tactile experience of working with velvet textures while creating his signature twin tails and flight-ready expression. It's a nostalgic project that results in a high-quality, huggable hero perfect for any collection. I've designed this to capture every little detail, from his iconic gloves to his sculpted muzzle.

Advanced 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Copter-tailed Fox Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Two skeins of orange plush yarn (Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce) for the main body and tails
  • 02
    Less than half a skein of white plush yarn for the gloves, socks, and tail tips
  • 03
    Small amount of ivory plush yarn for the tummy, muzzle, and inner ears
  • 04
    Small amount of grey plush yarn for the shoe soles
  • 05
    Small amount of red plush yarn for the main part of the shoes
  • 06
    Black semi-cotton yarn (YarnArt Jeans or Alize Cotton Gold) for the nose and pupils

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Long needle (approx. 12 cm) for facial sculpting and tightening
  • 03
    Nylon or very strong light-colored thread for muzzle shaping
  • 04
    Standard sewing needles for assembling the body parts
  • 05
    Several stitch markers to track rounds and attachment points
  • 06
    Large-headed pins for positioning details before sewing
  • 07
    Sharp scissors
  • 08
    High-quality polyester fiber filling

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Thumb (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, create 6 SC into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 3 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 4 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 5 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Info :

ch1, fold the piece flat and work 3 SC through both layers to close. Fasten off and cut the yarn. Do not stuff the thumb.

— 2. Fingers (Make 4 per arm) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, create 6 SC into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 3 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 4 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 5 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Round 6 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (6)

Info :

Fasten off the first three fingers. On the fourth finger, do not cut the yarn as we will continue to join all fingers together.

— 3. Hand and Arm (Make 2) :

Round 7 :

Join the fingers: 3 SC on finger 1, 3 SC on finger 2, 3 SC on finger 3, 6 SC on finger 4, 3 SC on finger 3, 3 SC on finger 2, 3 SC on finger 1 (24)

Round 8 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 9 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 10 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 11 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 12 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Info :

Fold the piece to find the side placement for the thumb. Shift your marker if necessary to ensure the thumb aligns correctly.

Round 13 (Left) :

For the left arm: 1 SC, 3 SC through both the thumb and the hand, 20 SC (24)

Round 13 (Right) :

For the right arm: 8 SC, 3 SC through both the thumb and the hand, 13 SC (24)

Round 14 :

(10 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (22)

Round 15 :

(9 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (20)

Round 16 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 4 times (16)

Round 17 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 4 times (12)

Colour Change :

Switch to orange yarn and fasten off the white thread.

Round 18 :

(4 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (10)

Round 19 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (8)

Round 20 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (6)

Info :

Stuff only the palm area lightly so it remains flat. Do not stuff the rest of the arm.

Round 21-30 :

Work 10 rounds of 6 SC (6)

Info :

ch1, fold the top of the arm flat and work 3 SC through both layers to close. Fasten off.

— 4. Glove Edge (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using white yarn, ch 22

Row 1 :

Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 21 SC, ch1 and turn (21)

Row 2 :

Work 21 SC in the BLO, ch1 and turn (21)

Row 3 :

Work 21 SC in the FLO, ch1 and turn (21)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold the piece so the loose loops are on the outside, sew the short ends together, and slide onto the arm between rounds 15 and 16.

— 5. Tails (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using white yarn, create 6 SC into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

(1 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (9)

Round 3 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (12)

Round 4 :

(3 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (15)

Round 5 :

(4 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (18)

Round 6 :

(5 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (21)

Round 7 :

(6 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (24)

Round 8 :

(7 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (27)

Round 9 :

(8 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (30)

Round 10 :

(4 SC, switch to orange, 1 SC, switch back to white) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 11 :

3 SC white, switch to orange, 3 SC, switch back to white, (2 SC white, switch to orange, 3 SC, switch back to white) repeat 4 times, 2 SC white, switch to orange, 2 SC orange (30)

Info :

Fasten off white yarn; continue with orange only.

Round 12 :

(9 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (33)

Round 13 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (33)

Round 14 :

(10 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (36)

Round 15-19 :

Work 5 rounds of 36 SC (36)

Round 20 :

(10 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (33)

Round 21 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (33)

Round 22 :

(9 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (30)

Round 23 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (30)

Round 24 :

(8 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (27)

Round 25 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (27)

Round 26 :

(7 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (24)

Round 27 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (24)

Round 28 :

(6 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (21)

Round 29 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (21)

Round 30 :

(5 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (18)

Round 31 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (18)

Round 32 :

(4 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (15)

Round 33 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (15)

Round 34 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (12)

Round 35 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (12)

Round 36 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (9)

Info :

Stuff the bottom half of the tail lightly. ch1, fold the top flat and work 4 SC through both layers. Fasten off.

— 6. Shoe and Leg (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using grey yarn, ch 10

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 8 SC, 3 SC in the last chain. On other side: 7 SC, INC (20)

Round 2 :

INC, 7 SC, 3 INC, 7 SC, 2 INC (26)

Round 3 :

1 SC, INC, 7 SC, (1 SC, INC) x3, 7 SC, (1 SC, INC) x2 (32)

Round 4 :

(2 SC, INC) x2, 4 SC, (2 SC, INC) x3, 4 SC, (2 SC, INC) x3 (40)

Round 5 :

(3 SC, INC) x2, 4 SC, (3 SC, INC) x3, 4 SC, (3 SC, INC) x3 (48)

Round 6 :

Switch to red yarn (do not cut grey). Work in BLO: 11 SC, change to white, 24 SC, change back to red, 13 SC (48)

Round 7 :

12 SC red, change to white, 8 SC, 4 DEC, 8 SC, change back to red, 12 SC (44)

Info :

Pick up the grey yarn and work 48 SS into the front loops of Round 5. Fasten off grey.

Round 8 :

In red: 12 SC, change to white, 6 SC, 4 DEC, 6 SC, change back to red, 12 SC (40)

Round 9 :

12 SC red, change to white, 4 SC, 4 DEC, 4 SC, change back to red, 12 SC (36)

Round 10 :

12 SC red, change to white, 2 SC, 4 DEC, 2 SC, change back to red, 12 SC (32)

Round 11 :

12 SC red, change to white, 4 DEC, change back to red, 12 SC (28). Fasten off white.

Round 12 :

Using red: 10 SC, 4 DEC, 10 SC (24)

Round 13 :

8 SC, 4 DEC, 8 SC (20)

Round 14 :

6 SC, 4 DEC, 6 SC (16)

Colour Change :

Switch to orange yarn.

Round 15 :

(6 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (14)

Round 16 :

(5 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (12)

Round 17 :

(4 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (10)

Round 18 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 2 times (8)

Round 19-29 :

Work 11 rounds of 8 SC (8)

Info :

Fasten off the first leg (left). On the second leg (right), do not cut yarn; we will use it to join the legs.

— 7. Sock Edge (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using white yarn, ch 27

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 26 SC, ch1 and turn (26)

Row 2 :

Work 26 SC in BLO, ch1 and turn (26)

Row 3 :

Work 26 SC, ch1 and turn (26)

Row 4 :

Work 26 SC in BLO, ch1 and turn (26)

Row 5 :

Work 26 SC (26)

Info :

Fasten off. Wrap around the leg and sew the edges together. Position it so the starting chain is at the top.

— 8. Body and Head :

Round 30 :

Ch 4 from the right leg, attach to the left leg: 8 SC on left leg, 4 SC on chain, 8 SC on right leg, 4 SC on other side of chain (24)

Round 31 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 8 times (32)

Round 32 :

(3 SC, INC) repeat 8 times (40)

Round 33 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (40)

Round 34 :

34 SC, 4 SC through both the first tail and the body, 2 SC through the second tail and body (40)

Round 35 :

2 SC through the remaining part of the second tail and body, 38 SC (40)

Round 36 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (40)

Round 37 :

(8 SC, DEC) repeat 4 times (36)

Round 38 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (36)

Round 39 :

(10 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (33)

Round 40 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (33)

Round 41 :

(9 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (30)

Round 42 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (30)

Round 43 :

(8 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (27)

Round 44 :

(7 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (24)

Round 45 :

5 SC, 3 SC through both the arm and the body, 9 SC, 3 SC through the other arm and body, 4 SC (24)

Round 46 :

(6 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (21)

Round 47 :

(5 SC, DEC) repeat 3 times (18)

Round 48 :

(1 SC, INC) repeat 9 times (27)

Round 49 :

(2 SC, INC) repeat 9 times (36)

Round 50 :

(5 SC, INC) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 51 :

(6 SC, INC) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 52-55 :

Work 4 rounds of 48 SC (48)

Round 56 :

(15 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (51)

Round 57 :

(16 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (54)

Round 58-60 :

Work 3 rounds of 54 SC (54)

Round 61 :

(17 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (57)

Round 62 :

(18 SC, INC) repeat 3 times (60)

Round 63 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (60)

Round 64 :

(8 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (54)

Round 65 :

(7 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (48)

Round 66 :

(6 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (42)

Round 67 :

(5 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (36)

Round 68 :

(4 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (30)

Round 69 :

(3 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (24)

Round 70 :

(2 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (18)

Round 71 :

(1 SC, DEC) repeat 6 times (12)

Round 72 :

Work 6 DEC (6)

Info :

Do not pull the final hole tight yet; leave it open for facial sculpting. Fasten off with a long tail.

— 9. Tummy Patch :

Row 0 :

Using ivory yarn, ch 11

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 10 SC, ch1 and turn (10)

Row 2-3 :

Work 2 rows of 10 SC, ch1 and turn (10)

Row 4 :

Skip first stitch, 9 SC, ch1 and turn (9)

Row 5 :

Skip first stitch, 8 SC, ch1 and turn (8)

Row 6-9 :

Work 4 rows of 8 SC, ch1 and turn (8)

Row 10 :

Skip first stitch, 5 SC, DEC (6)

Edging :

Work around the edge of the patch, adding chains and slip stitches to create the 'fur' tufts as shown in the visual guide. Fasten off.

— 10. Muzzle Fur Ends (3 Sizes) :

Large :

Using ivory: ch 6, starting in 2nd chain: 1 SS, 1 SC, 3 HDC. Fasten off.

Middle :

Using ivory: ch 5, starting in 2nd chain: 1 SS, 1 SC, 2 HDC. Fasten off.

Small :

Using ivory: ch 4, starting in 2nd chain: 1 SS, 1 SC, 1 HDC. Fasten off.

— 11. Muzzle :

Row 0 :

Using ivory yarn, ch 14

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 12 SC, 3 SC in last chain. On other side: 11 SC, INC (28)

Round 2 :

INC, 11 SC, 3 INC, 5 SC, 3 SC in one stitch, 5 SC, 2 INC (36)

Round 3 :

1 SC, INC, 11 SC, (1 SC, INC) x3, 6 SC, 3 SC in one stitch, 6 SC, (1 SC, INC) x2 (44)

Round 4 :

15 SC, 2 SC with small tuft, 2 SC with middle tuft, 2 SC with large tuft, 20 SC, 2 SC with large tuft, 2 SC with middle tuft, 2 SC with small tuft (44)

Round 5 :

Work 1 SC in each stitch around (44)

— 12. Nose :

Round 1 :

Using black semi-cotton, 6 SC into a MR (6)

Round 2-3 :

Work 2 rounds of 6 SC (6)

Info :

Fasten off and sew to the muzzle center.

— 13. Eye Whites (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using white yarn, ch 10

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 8 SC, 3 SC in last chain. On other side: 8 SC, ch1 and turn (19)

Round 2 (Right) :

9 SC, 3 INC, 7 SC (22)

Round 2 (Left) :

7 SC, 3 INC, 9 SC (22)

— 14. Pupils (Make 2) :

Row 0 :

Using black semi-cotton, ch 7

Round 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 5 SC, 3 SC in last chain. On other side: 4 SC, INC (14)

— 15. Ears (Make 2) :

Inner Ear :

Using ivory: ch 2, work INC in 2nd chain. Continue increasing at the start of each row until you have 13 stitches at Row 11.

Outer Ear :

Using orange: ch 2, work INC in 2nd chain. Continue increasing at the start of each row until you have 11 stitches at Row 10. Work 10 SC down the side, 3 SC in the top, and 10 SC down the other side.

Joining :

Place inner ear against outer ear and SC them together around the entire edge, working 3 SC in each corner.

— 16. Hair Locks (Make 3) :

Row 0 :

Using orange yarn, ch 3

Row 1 :

Starting in 2nd chain: 2 SC, ch1 and turn (2)

Row 2-7 :

Work 6 rows of 2 SC, ch1 and turn (2)

Row 8 :

Skip first stitch, 1 SC, ch1 and turn (1)

Row 9 :

Work 1 SC (1)

Edging :

Work a series of SS down the side of the piece back to the start. Fasten off.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position the black pupils onto the white eye pieces, centering them and placing them about two rows above the bottom edge before sewing.
  • Pin the eyes to the head between Rounds 5 and 15, leaving about a one-stitch gap between them, and sew in place with thin thread.
  • Attach the muzzle to the face between Rounds 1 and 7, ensuring the tufted edges are symmetrical and the center is stuffed lightly.
  • Use a long needle and strong thread to perform muzzle tightening by pulling from the top head hole to the corners of the muzzle to create cheek definition.
  • Embroider a wide smile across the muzzle using black thread, following the line created by the tightening points.
  • Pin the ears to the sides of the head along the arc of Rounds 14 to 20 and sew them securely with matching thread.
  • Finish the fox by sewing the tummy patch to the front of the body and attaching the three hair locks to the top center of the head.

Important Notes

  • 💡The pattern utilizes a 'mixed' crochet technique (yarn over, then yarn under) which creates a tighter, more uniform fabric that prevents stuffing from showing.
  • 💡Always stuff the head firmly but pay attention to the shape; it should be slightly narrower at the bottom near the neck than at the top.
  • 💡When working the color changes in the tails and shoes, tie the yarn ends together on the inside to ensure the transitions stay crisp and don't pull apart.
  • 💡The marker shifts are vital for the symmetry of the limbs; if your tension is different, you may need to add or remove a shift stitch to keep things centered.
  • 💡Using semi-cotton yarn for the facial details like the eyes and nose provides a much sharper look than using the bulky plush yarn.

You've done it! Your Copter-tailed Fox is ready for his next high-flying adventure. I hope you enjoyed every stitch of this nostalgic journey. There's something so special about seeing those twin tails come together and finally adding the sculpted facial details that give him his signature personality. Whether he's sitting on a shelf or being gifted to a fellow fan, he's sure to bring a smile to anyone's face. Don't forget to share your finished fox with the community — I can't wait to see your version! Happy crafting! 🧶✨🦊

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this fox?

You certainly can, but keep in mind that using a standard worsted weight acrylic will result in a much smaller toy. If you switch, make sure to use a hook size that creates a dense fabric so the stuffing doesn't peek through.

How do I make the tails stay in a specific position?

The tails are quite large and can be heavy. If you want them to be poseable, you can insert a thick gauge copper wire or a pipe cleaner inside before finishing the stuffing, but usually, firm stuffing is enough to hold their shape.

My muzzle tufts aren't lining up symmetrically, what should I do?

Because everyone's tension varies, the 'shift' stitches might not land exactly where mine do. If they look off-center, simply move the attachment point of the tufts by one or two stitches until they look balanced on both sides.

Is the 'mixed' crochet method absolutely necessary?

It's not mandatory, but it is highly recommended for this pattern. The 'yarn under' second step creates an 'X' shaped stitch that is much sturdier and less prone to stretching, which helps maintain the sculpted shape of the head.