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Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern
4.9★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
2.0KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern

Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

It makes the sweetest handmade gift for a baby or toddler — the stackable rings double as a classic developmental toy, and no two handmade versions will ever look quite the same.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern

I'll be honest — the first time I saw this design I sat with it for a good five minutes just marveling at how someone thought to put a stacking ring toy inside an amigurumi snail. That concept alone had me hooked before I'd even read a single round. Making it was genuinely fun because there's such variety — you go from flat base discs to tight little eye stalks to those gorgeous wide striped rings, and no two sections feel the same. The roof section is the wildest ride: 62 rows of BLO increases that curl and spiral into this perfect pointy cone. I won't pretend it doesn't take focus, but when that cone came together I actually gasped. If you love a project that keeps surprising you as it grows, this one is going to be a joy.

Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I have a weakness for crochet projects that are secretly two things at once — and this snail stacking toy is absolutely that. On the surface it's an amigurumi snail. Look a little closer and it's also a classic developmental stacking toy, with three removable stuffed rings and a pointy roof that all slide on and off a central pole. The first time I saw the design I actually laughed out loud at how clever it was.

The making process kept surprising me at every stage. The base section is deceptively straightforward — two flat discs joined through their back loops with fiberfill packed in between — but the result is this beautifully solid, ruffled platform that gives the whole toy incredible stability. Then the neck shaping kicks in and suddenly you're juggling increases, decreases, and hdc in the same round to coax out an S-curve. It takes concentration, but the moment that little snail head pops into shape, you'll understand exactly why it was worth it.

The rings are where you really get to enjoy the color work. I love a good stripe sequence, and alternating between pink and light green on the large ring, blue and pink on the middle, blue and light green on the small one gives the whole stack this gorgeous pastel energy. My tip: don't cut and re-join for every stripe. Carry the yarn loosely inside the stitches and you'll save yourself a mountain of ends to weave in later.

And then there's the roof. Sixty-two rows of back-loop-only single crochet that spiral into a tall pointed cone — honestly one of the most satisfying pieces I've ever crocheted. Put on a good podcast and let yourself just settle into the rhythm of it. The texture that builds up along the back loops is so beautiful in green yarn. If you've never tried a big BLO project before, this roof will convert you.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the two base pieces together through the back loops of Rounds 6 and 11, it's easy to miss stitches or join unevenly — pin the two discs together all the way around before sewing and check alignment at Round 6 and Round 11 separately.✗ The neck shaping in Rounds 6 through 12 uses a mix of sc, inc, dec, and hdc in the same round to create the S-curve — rushing through these without counting each stitch group individually causes the head to sit twisted or lean to one side.✗ Rounds 10 and 12 of the Neck & Head section are marked with an asterisk and note that decreases carry over from the previous round — if you don't account for this and just work the listed stitches straight through, your stitch count will be off and the neck curve will lose its shape.✗ When crocheting the roof in BLO through all 62 rows, skipping the back loop even once creates a visible ridge break in the spiral texture — use a stitch marker on every row turn and double check you're in the correct loop before starting each row.✗ The large ring, middle ring, and small ring all require sewing the last round directly to the starting chain round to close the donut shape — if you close them too tightly or too loosely the rings won't lie flat and won't stack cleanly on the pole.✗ Eye Part 1 involves three color changes across 10 rounds in a very small circumference — carrying the unused yarn too loosely inside causes bumps visible through the outer layer, so catch the floats firmly every 2 stitches.✗ Attaching the pole to Round 11 of the base is the structural anchor for the whole stacking toy — if you sew it off-center even slightly, all three rings will lean when stacked; measure from multiple points around the base circumference before securing.

Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern

This crochet snail stacking toy is one of those projects that genuinely stops people in their tracks — it's playful, colorful, and way more impressive than the skill level it requires. You'll build a sweet little snail body with expressive bug eyes, then crochet a whole tower of stuffed rings and a pointed roof that all stack neatly on top. The pastel stripes, the chunky little base, the tiny arched door — every detail makes it feel like a handmade heirloom. Whether you're making it for a nursery shelf or gifting it to a toddler who loves toys with a bit of whimsy, this pattern delivers something truly special. Your finished snail will be one of those pieces people ask about every single time.

Advanced 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Snail Stacking Toy Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Gray cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 21 — used for the snail body, base, pole, and eye stalks
  • 02
    Green cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 10 — used for the roof
  • 03
    Light green cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 522 — used as a stripe color in the large ring, small ring, and as a secondary color in the roof
  • 04
    Pink cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 149 — used as the main color for the middle ring and as a stripe color
  • 05
    Blue cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 279 — used as the main color for the small ring and as a stripe color in the middle ring
  • 06
    White cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 55 — used for the outer layer of the eyes
  • 07
    Black cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 60 — used for the eye pupils and the door
  • 08
    Yellow cotton yarn — Alize Cotton Gold color 83 — used for the eye iris and the windows

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3 mm crochet hook (adjust if needed to match your yarn tension)
  • 02
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for filling the base, rings, snail body, and eye pieces
  • 03
    Tapestry needle for sewing all pieces together and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Base (make 2 pieces) :

Info :

Work both base pieces separately in gray yarn. They will be joined together later through their back loops.

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in each stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 6 :

Working in FLO only: (4 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 3 sc. (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 10 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (60)

Round 11 :

Working in FLO only: (9 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 12 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (72)

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (78)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (90)

Round 16 :

90 sc across. (90)

Round 17 :

90 sc across. (90) Cut yarn and weave in the tail.

Info :

Place the two base pieces together and sew them through the back loops of Round 6 on one piece to Round 6 on the other, and Round 11 to Round 11. Stuff as you go. Once joined, there will be a 20-stitch opening at the top — this is where the neck begins.

— 2. Tail :

Info :

The tail is crocheted by picking up stitches from both base pieces — 10 sc from one piece and 10 sc from the other — to join them and form a continuous round of 20 stitches. Continue working in rounds. Use gray yarn. Stuff as you go.

Round 1 :

Pick up 10 sc from the first base piece and 10 sc from the second base piece to create a joined round. (20)

Round 2 :

20 sc around. (20)

Round 3 :

(dec, 8 sc) — repeat 2 times. (18)

Round 4 :

18 sc around. (18)

Round 5 :

(dec, 7 sc) — repeat 2 times. (16)

Round 6 :

16 sc around. (16)

Round 7 :

(dec, 6 sc) — repeat 2 times. (14)

Round 8 :

14 sc around. (14)

Round 9 :

(dec, 5 sc) — repeat 2 times. (12)

Round 10 :

12 sc around. (12)

Round 11 :

(2 sc, dec) — repeat 3 times. (9)

Round 12 :

9 sc around. (9)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, dec) — repeat 3 times. (6) Fasten off.

Info :

Before closing the tail, connect the two base halves along the tail join edge using 35 sc. Then turn and work (dc inc) in each of those 35 stitches to create a ruffled edge of 70 stitches. Work this ruffle from both sides of the tail join. Stuff as you go.

— 3. Neck & Head :

Info :

Begin working from the 20-stitch opening left at the top of the joined base. Use gray yarn and work in continuous rounds.

Round 1 :

Pick up 10 sc from one side of the opening and 10 sc from the other side to work into the round. (20)

Round 2 :

20 sc around. (20)

Round 3 :

20 sc around. (20)

Round 4 :

20 sc around. (20)

Round 5 :

20 sc around. (20)

Round 6 :

3 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 4 dec, 1 sc. (20)

Round 7 :

15 sc, 4 hdc, 1 sc. (20)

Round 8 :

4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 4 dec. (20)

Round 9 :

16 sc, 4 hdc. (20)

Round 10 :

6 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 4 dec. Note: the stitch count reflects decreases carried over from the start of this round — see pattern note below. (22*)

Round 11 :

16 sc, 4 hdc. (20)

Round 12 :

6 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 4 dec. (22*)

Info :

Rounds 10 and 12 are marked with an asterisk in the source pattern. The note states the count includes decreases carried over from the beginning of the adjacent round. Verify your stitch count at these rounds carefully before continuing.

Round 13 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 10 times. (30)

Round 14 :

(4 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 15 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 16 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 17 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 18 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 19 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 20 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 21 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 22 :

(4 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 23 :

(3 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 24 :

(2 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 25 :

(1 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 26 :

Work 6 dec around. (6) Cut yarn, close the hole, and weave in the tail.

— 4. Pole :

Info :

The pole is the central stacking column. Work in gray yarn from a magic ring. After finishing, sew it to the base at Round 11 as shown in the reference photos.

Round 1 :

6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc around. (12)

Round 3 :

12 sc around. (12)

Round 4 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 5 :

18 sc around. (18)

Round 6 :

18 sc around. (18)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 8 :

24 sc around. (24)

Round 9 :

24 sc around. (24)

Round 10 :

24 sc around. (24)

Round 11 :

(3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 12 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 13 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 14 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 15 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 16 :

(4 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 17 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 18 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 19 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 20 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 21 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 23 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 24 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 25 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 26 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 27 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 28 :

42 sc around. (42)

Round 29 :

(6 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (48)

Round 30 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 31 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 32 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 33 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 34 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 35 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 36 :

48 sc around. (48)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 38 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 39 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 40 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 41 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 42 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 43 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 44 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 45 :

54 sc around. (54)

Round 46 :

(8 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (60) Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the pole to the base centered over Round 11.

— 5. Eyes — Part 1 (make 2) :

Info :

Start with black yarn.

Round 1 :

6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

18 sl st around. (18) Change to yellow yarn.

Round 5 :

Working in BLO: (2 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 6 :

24 sl st around. (24) Change to white yarn.

Round 7 :

(3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 8 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 9 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 10 :

30 sc around. (30) Fasten off.

— 6. Eyes — Part 2 (make 2) :

Info :

Use gray yarn. This piece forms the back cup of the eye that connects to the head.

Round 1 :

6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 6 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 7 :

Join to Round 10 of Eye Part 1 using 30 sc around. (30)

Round 8 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 9 :

30 sc around. (30) Fasten off.

— 7. Eyes — Part 3 / Eye Stalks (make 2) :

Info :

Use gray yarn. These are the tubular stalks that hold the eyes above the head.

Round 1 :

Ch 13, then join with 1 sl st to the first chain to form a loop. (12 working stitches)

Round 2 :

12 sc around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (8) [This narrows the stalk at the base of the eye]

Round 4 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 5 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 6 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 7 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 8 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 9 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 10 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 11 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 12 :

8 sc around. (8)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (12) [Flares slightly to connect to eye assembly]

Round 14 :

12 sc around. (12) Cut yarn, leave a long sewing tail. Attach the eye assembly as shown in the reference photos.

— 8. Large Ring :

Info :

Start with light green yarn. This is the biggest of the three stacking rings.

Round 1 :

Ch 60, join with a sl st to the first chain to form a ring. (60)

Round 2 :

(9 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 3 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (72)

Round 4 :

(11 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (78)

Round 5 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (84)

Round 6 :

(13 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (90)

Round 7 :

7 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 7 sc. (96)

Round 8 :

(15 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (102)

Round 9 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to pink yarn.

Round 10 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to light green yarn.

Round 11 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to pink yarn.

Round 12 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to light green yarn.

Round 13 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to pink yarn.

Round 14 :

102 sc around. (102) Change to light green yarn.

Round 15 :

102 sc around. (102)

Round 16 :

(15 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (96)

Round 17 :

7 sc, dec, (14 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 7 sc. (90)

Round 18 :

(13 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (84)

Round 19 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (78)

Round 20 :

(11 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 21 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (66)

Round 22 :

(9 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (60) Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Sew Round 22 to Round 1 to close the donut shape, stuffing as you go.

— 9. Middle Ring :

Info :

Start with pink yarn. This is the medium-sized stacking ring.

Round 1 :

Ch 48, join with a sl st to the first chain to form a ring. (48)

Round 2 :

(7 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 3 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (60)

Round 4 :

(9 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 5 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (72)

Round 6 :

(11 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (78)

Round 7 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (84) Change to blue yarn.

Round 8 :

(13 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (90) Change to pink yarn.

Round 9 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to blue yarn.

Round 10 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to pink yarn.

Round 11 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to blue yarn.

Round 12 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to pink yarn.

Round 13 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to blue yarn.

Round 14 :

90 sc around. (90) Change to pink yarn.

Round 15 :

90 sc around. (90)

Round 16 :

(13 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (84)

Round 17 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (78)

Round 18 :

(11 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 19 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (66)

Round 20 :

(9 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (54)

Round 22 :

(7 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (48) Sew Round 22 to Round 1 to close, stuffing as you go.

— 10. Small Ring :

Info :

Start with blue yarn. This is the smallest of the three stacking rings.

Round 1 :

Ch 36, join with a sl st to the first chain to form a ring. (36)

Round 2 :

(5 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (42)

Round 3 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 3 sc. (48)

Round 4 :

(7 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (54)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (60)

Round 6 :

(9 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (72)

Round 8 :

(11 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (78)

Round 9 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to light green yarn.

Round 10 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to blue yarn.

Round 11 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to light green yarn.

Round 12 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to blue yarn.

Round 13 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to light green yarn.

Round 14 :

78 sc around. (78) Change to blue yarn.

Round 15 :

78 sc around. (78)

Round 16 :

(11 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 17 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (66)

Round 18 :

(9 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (60)

Round 19 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (54)

Round 20 :

(7 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (48)

Round 21 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 3 sc. (42)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (36) Sew Round 22 to Round 1 to close, stuffing as you go.

— 11. Windows (make 3) :

Info :

Start with yellow yarn. Each window gets a different border color when finished: one in blue (for the small ring), one in pink (for the middle ring), and one in green (for the roof). Work all three the same way through Round 5 then change to the appropriate color.

Round 1 :

6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 5 :

24 sc around. (24) Change to the appropriate border color (blue, pink, or green).

Round 6 :

Working in FLO: 24 sc around. (24)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times. (30) Cut yarn, leave a long tail for sewing. Sew one window each to the middle ring, small ring, and roof.

— 12. Door :

Info :

Start with black yarn. This piece is worked in rows, not rounds. The door attaches to the large ring.

Row 1 :

Ch 7, turn. (6 working stitches)

Row 2 :

5 sc, 3 sc into 1 stitch, 5 sc, turn. (13)

Row 3 :

Ch 1, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, turn. (16)

Row 4 :

Ch 1, 5 sc, (1 sc, inc) — repeat 3 times, 5 sc, turn. (13) Change to light green yarn.

Row 5 :

Ch 1, working in BLO: 16 sc, turn. (16)

Row 6 :

Ch 1, working in BLO: 16 sc. (16) Cut yarn, leave a long tail. Sew the door to the large ring.

— 13. Roof :

Info :

Start with green yarn. Rows 3 through 62 are all worked in BLO. The roof begins flat and spirals into a tall cone shape through gradual increases. After Row 62, switch to light green and continue working in rounds to finish the cone tip and base rim.

Row 1 :

Ch 6, turn. (6)

Row 2 :

5 sc, turn. (5)

Row 3 :

BLO ch 1, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, turn. (6)

Row 4 :

BLO ch 1, 6 sc, turn. (6)

Row 5 :

BLO ch 1, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc, turn. (7)

Row 6 :

BLO ch 1, 7 sc, turn. (7)

Row 7 :

BLO ch 1, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, turn. (8)

Row 8 :

BLO ch 1, 8 sc, turn. (8)

Row 9 :

BLO ch 1, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, turn. (9)

Row 10 :

BLO ch 1, 9 sc, turn. (9)

Row 11 :

BLO ch 1, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, turn. (10)

Row 12 :

BLO ch 1, 10 sc, turn. (10)

Row 13 :

BLO ch 1, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, turn. (11)

Row 14 :

BLO ch 1, 11 sc, turn. (11)

Row 15 :

BLO ch 1, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, turn. (12)

Row 16 :

BLO ch 1, 12 sc, turn. (12)

Row 17 :

BLO ch 1, 6 sc, inc, 5 sc, turn. (13)

Row 18 :

BLO ch 1, 13 sc, turn. (13)

Row 19 :

BLO ch 1, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc, turn. (14)

Row 20 :

BLO ch 1, 14 sc, turn. (14)

Row 21 :

BLO ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 6 sc, turn. (15)

Row 22 :

BLO ch 1, 15 sc, turn. (15)

Row 23 :

BLO ch 1, 7 sc, inc, 7 sc, turn. (16)

Row 24 :

BLO ch 1, 16 sc, turn. (16)

Row 25 :

BLO ch 1, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc, turn. (17)

Row 26 :

BLO ch 1, 17 sc, turn. (17)

Row 27 :

BLO ch 1, 8 sc, inc, 8 sc, turn. (18)

Row 28 :

BLO ch 1, 18 sc, turn. (18)

Row 29 :

BLO ch 1, 9 sc, inc, 8 sc, turn. (19)

Row 30 :

BLO ch 1, 19 sc, turn. (19)

Row 31 :

BLO ch 1, 9 sc, inc, 9 sc, turn. (20)

Row 32 :

BLO ch 1, 20 sc, turn. (20)

Row 33 :

BLO ch 1, 10 sc, inc, 9 sc, turn. (21)

Row 34 :

BLO ch 1, 21 sc, turn. (21)

Row 35 :

BLO ch 1, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc, turn. (22)

Row 36 :

BLO ch 1, 22 sc, turn. (22)

Row 37 :

BLO ch 1, 11 sc, inc, 10 sc, turn. (23)

Row 38 :

BLO ch 1, 23 sc, turn. (23)

Row 39 :

BLO ch 1, 11 sc, inc, 11 sc, turn. (24)

Row 40 :

BLO ch 1, 24 sc, turn. (24)

Row 41 :

BLO ch 1, (3 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (30)

Row 42 :

BLO ch 1, 30 sc, turn. (30)

Row 43 :

BLO ch 1, (4 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (36)

Row 44 :

BLO ch 1, 36 sc, turn. (36)

Row 45 :

BLO ch 1, (5 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (42)

Row 46 :

BLO ch 1, 42 sc, turn. (42)

Row 47 :

BLO ch 1, (6 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (48)

Row 48 :

BLO ch 1, 48 sc, turn. (48)

Row 49 :

BLO ch 1, (7 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (54)

Row 50 :

BLO ch 1, 54 sc, turn. (54)

Row 51 :

BLO ch 1, (8 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (60)

Row 52 :

BLO ch 1, 60 sc, turn. (60)

Row 53 :

BLO ch 1, (9 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (66)

Row 54 :

BLO ch 1, 66 sc, turn. (66)

Row 55 :

BLO ch 1, (10 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (72)

Row 56 :

BLO ch 1, 72 sc, turn. (72)

Row 57 :

BLO ch 1, (11 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (78)

Row 58 :

BLO ch 1, 78 sc, turn. (78)

Row 59 :

BLO ch 1, (12 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (84)

Row 60 :

BLO ch 1, 84 sc, turn. (84)

Row 61 :

BLO ch 1, (13 sc, inc) — repeat 6 times, turn. (90)

Row 62 :

BLO ch 1, 90 sc, turn. (90) Change to light green yarn. From this point, continue working in rounds rather than rows.

Round 63 :

BLO ch 1, (13 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (84)

Round 64 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 6 sc. (78)

Round 65 :

(11 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (72)

Round 66 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 5 sc. (66)

Round 67 :

(9 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (60)

Round 68 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 4 sc. (54)

Round 69 :

(7 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (48)

Round 70 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) — repeat 5 times, 3 sc. (42)

Round 71 :

(5 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (36)

Round 72 :

Working in BLO: 36 sc around. (36)

Round 73 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 74 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 75 :

36 sc around. (36)

Round 76 :

(4 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (30)

Round 77 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 78 :

30 sc around. (30)

Round 79 :

(3 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (24)

Round 80 :

24 sc around. (24)

Round 81 :

24 sc around. (24)

Round 82 :

(2 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (18)

Round 83 :

18 sc around. (18)

Round 84 :

(1 sc, dec) — repeat 6 times. (12)

Round 85 :

6 dec around. (6) Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in the tail securely.

Assembly Instructions

  • Start by joining both base pieces: place them flat together and sew through the back loops of Round 6 on each piece, then through the back loops of Round 11. Stuff firmly as you sew, working around the circumference evenly.
  • Once the base is joined and stuffed, pick up stitches from the 20-stitch opening at the top to begin the neck. Work through all 26 rounds of the Neck & Head section, stuffing the head before closing Round 26.
  • Sew the completed pole firmly to the center of the base, aligning it with Round 11 of the base. Check from multiple angles that it sits straight upright before securing the tail — the rings stack over this pole so alignment matters.
  • Assemble each eye by connecting Eye Part 2 (gray back cup) to Round 10 of Eye Part 1 at Round 7. Sew the completed eye assembly onto Eye Part 3 (the stalk), then attach both stalks to the top of the head, spaced apart and angled outward.
  • Sew the completed door onto the large ring, centering it on one side. Sew the three windows one each to the middle ring, the small ring, and the roof piece.
  • Stack the rings on the pole in order — large ring at the bottom, middle ring in the center, small ring on top — then place the roof over the pole tip. The rings should slide on and off freely.
  • Finally, attach the snail body (neck and head) to the front of the base, positioning it so the eyes clear the rings when the toy is assembled. Tack the neck base to the base front edge using a few hidden stitches to keep the head from flopping.

Important Notes

  • 💡The two base pieces must be sewed through their back loops at exactly Round 6 and Round 11 — not adjacent rounds. The FLO rounds were specifically crocheted to leave the back loops free for this join, so take care to identify the correct rows before sewing.
  • 💡Rounds 10 and 12 of the Neck & Head section carry an asterisk indicating that decreases from the previous round are counted into the stitch total. Read these rounds slowly and count mid-round rather than just at the end.
  • 💡The roof is worked exclusively in BLO from Row 3 all the way through Row 62 — this is what creates the ridge texture of the cone. If you lose track of which loop you're in, the texture will look flat and uneven on one side.
  • 💡All three rings need to be stuffed to roughly the same firmness so they stack evenly and the pole passes through cleanly. Under-stuffed rings will sag and collapse; over-stuffed ones won't sit flat.
  • 💡Color changes in the rings happen every single round for the stripe section — always change at the end of the round (last pull-through of the final stitch) to keep the stripe edge crisp and even.
  • 💡When sewing the pole to the base at Round 11, stitch all the way around the perimeter of the pole base rather than just catching a few stitches — this joint bears the weight of all three rings and the roof, so it needs to be very secure.

There's something quietly magical about a toy that's also a creature — and this snail stacking toy absolutely delivers that magic. 🧶 The pastel rings, the spiraling green roof, those wide expressive eyes on their little stalks — every piece has its own personality, and putting them all together is genuinely satisfying. ✨ Whether this ends up center stage on a nursery shelf or in the hands of a little one who can't stop stacking and unstacking the rings, it's the kind of handmade piece that gets kept for years. Take your time with it, enjoy every color change, and know that you're making something really special. 🧵

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FAQs

How big is the finished snail stacking toy?

With all rings and the roof stacked on the pole, the assembled toy stands roughly 25–30 cm tall depending on your tension. The base is about 20 cm across. Individual ring sizes vary — the large ring is the widest at roughly 18 cm in diameter when stuffed.

Is this pattern safe for babies and toddlers?

The stacking ring toy construction itself is toddler-friendly since there are no small detachable hard pieces — it's all soft crocheted sections. However, the eye stalks are sewn on and not rated for infants who mouth toys aggressively. If making it for a very young child, consider embroidering the eyes instead of attaching sewn assemblies.

Can I substitute a different yarn brand or weight?

The pattern uses Alize Cotton Gold, a DK-weight cotton-acrylic blend. You can substitute any DK-weight yarn, but switching to a heavier worsted weight will make the finished toy noticeably larger and may make the rings feel stiffer. Stick to a cotton or cotton-blend yarn for the best stitch definition on the striping sections.

The neck shaping rounds look confusing — what does the asterisk on Rounds 10 and 12 mean?

The asterisk note means the listed stitch count for those rounds includes decreases that start at the beginning of the round and overlap with the previous round's count. Work each stitch exactly as written rather than verifying the count mid-round; check your total only after completing the full round.

How do I keep the stripe color changes on the rings from looking messy?

Always make your color change on the very last yarn-over of the final stitch in the round — pull the new color through that last loop rather than switching at the start of the next round. Carry the unused color inside the stitches for the first few sc of each round to anchor it without cutting and re-joining every stripe.

The roof has 85 rounds and rows total — is that right?

Yes — the roof is the most substantial piece in the pattern. It works 62 rows to build the flat spiral panel, then switches to working in rounds for Rounds 63 through 85 to close and taper the cone tip. It looks intimidating but each row or round goes quickly once you're in the rhythm of BLO sc.