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Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
1.5KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This piglet makes a wonderful heirloom gift for a nursery or a charming addition to any amigurumi collection. Her classic look and movable parts make her a hit with both kids and collectors alike.

Why You'll Love This Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love how the joints give Lily so much personality—she can actually sit on a shelf and look like she's thinking! The back post stitches on the muzzle also add such a neat, defined edge that really makes her snout pop. It's those little details that make the whole process so rewarding for a maker.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There's something about a piglet that just feels so classic in the world of amigurumi, isn't there? When I first started making Lily, I really wanted her to have that old-fashioned, jointed teddy bear vibe. I think the sport weight yarn is the secret sauce here—it gives her such a delicate, refined look that you just don't get with chunkier yarns.

I remember the first time I used plastic joints; I was so nervous I'd put them in the wrong spot! My tip for you is to pin the limbs exactly where you want them first, then mark the spot through the body fabric. It saves so much heart-ache later. I also love playing with the colors—while I went with classic pinks here, imagine how cute she'd be in a soft lavender or even a mint green!

One of my favorite parts of this project is the face shaping. It feels like magic when you pull those yarn tails and suddenly her eyes have expression. It’s those little moments of 'life' appearing in your work that keep me hooked on crochet after all these years.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ If you skip the bpsc round on the muzzle, the snout will look rounded instead of having that flat, characteristic pig-nose shape.✗ Putting the joints in the wrong place on the limbs can make Lily look a bit lopsided, so double-check your round counts before securing the washers.✗ When shaping the head with yarn, pulling too hard can distort the face; aim for a gentle indentation to give the eyes that sweet, sunken look.✗ Forgetting to work the hoof rounds in the back loops only will lose the sharp transition between the dark pink feet and the light pink legs.

Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

You're going to fall in love with Lily! She's a sweet, gangly little piglet with the cutest snout and floppy ears. I designed this pattern to have a bit of a vintage feel, using joints so she can sit or stand however you like. She's the perfect size for little hands to carry around on adventures and her slender limbs make her so easy to pose.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lily the Piglet Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn in Light Pink (about 55g / 180m)
  • 02
    Sport weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn in Dark Pink (about 20g / 66m)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.5mm to 3.0mm crochet hook
  • 02
    9mm safety eyes
  • 03
    Two 20mm plastic joints for the legs
  • 04
    Two 15mm plastic joints for the arms
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 06
    Black or dark brown embroidery thread
  • 07
    Yarn needle
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Stitch markers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Round 1 :

Using Light Pink yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Repeat (1 inc, 2 sc) 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

Repeat (3 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (4 sc, 1 inc) 5 times, finishing with 3 sc (36)

Round 7 :

Repeat (5 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

2 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (6 sc, 1 inc) 5 times, finishing with 4 sc (48)

Round 9 :

Repeat (7 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (54)

Round 10-15 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (54)

Info :

On Round 16, place a marker between stitches 24 and 25 to help center the face.

Round 16-17 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (54)

Round 18 :

11 sc, 1 inc, repeat (2 sc, 1 inc) twice, 13 sc, 1 inc, repeat (2 sc, 1 inc) twice, 16 sc (60)

Round 19-21 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 22 :

3 sc, 1 dec, repeat (8 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 5 sc (54)

Round 23 :

Repeat (7 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (48)

Round 24 :

2 sc, 1 dec, repeat (6 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 4 sc (42)

Info :

Insert 9mm safety eyes between Rounds 16 and 17, using the face marker as a guide. Leave 10 stitches (or 9 holes) between the eyes. Start stuffing the head firmly.

Round 25 :

Repeat (5 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (36)

Round 26 :

1 sc, 1 dec, repeat (4 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 3 sc (30)

Round 27 :

Repeat (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)

Round 28 :

Repeat (1 dec, 2 sc) 6 times (18)

Fasten Off :

1 sl st in next st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing the head firmly.

— 2. Muzzle :

Round 1 :

Using Dark Pink yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Repeat (1 inc3 twice, 1 sc) twice (14)

Round 3 :

2 sc, 1 inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, 1 inc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc (20)

Round 4 :

3 sc, 1 inc in each of the next 3 sts, 7 sc, 1 inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc (26)

Round 5 :

Work 1 bpsc in every st around (26)

Round 6-7 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (26)

Fasten Off :

1 sl st in next st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the muzzle firmly.

— 3. Ears :

Round 1 :

Using Dark Pink yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (6)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 inc, 1 sc) 3 times (9)

Round 4 :

Repeat (2 sc, 1 inc) 3 times (12)

Round 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, repeat (3 sc, 1 inc) twice, 2 sc (15)

Round 6 :

Repeat (4 sc, 1 inc) 3 times (18)

Round 7-9 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 10 :

Repeat (1 dec, 1 sc) 6 times (12)

Fasten Off :

1 sl st in next st. Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ears; do not stuff.

— 4. Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using Dark Pink yarn, create a mr and work 7 sc into it (7)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st around (14)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc) 7 times (21)

Round 4 :

Work 1 sc in each st around using blo (21)

Round 5 :

7 sc, 1 dec, repeat (1 sc, 1 dec) twice, 6 sc (18)

Round 6 :

4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (16)

Round 7 :

8 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (15)

Info :

Work 1 sc in the next stitch and mark this as the new end of the round. Switch to Light Pink yarn.

Round 8 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (15)

Round 9 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (14)

Info :

Stuff the hoof firmly. Use Light Pink yarn to make a tight vertical stitch from Round 7 down to the center of the hoof to shape it.

Round 10 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (14)

Round 11 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (13)

Round 12 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (13)

Round 13 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (12)

Round 14 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 15 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (11)

Round 16-23 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (11)

Info :

On the left arm only, work 6 extra sc and mark the last one as the new round end. Insert the 15mm joint between Rounds 22 and 23.

Round 24 :

5 sc, repeat 1 dec 3 times (8)

Round 25 :

Repeat 1 dec twice, leaving the remaining stitches unworked (6)

Fasten Off :

Finish stuffing, cut yarn, and use a needle to close the opening by picking up the remaining stitches.

— 5. Legs (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using Dark Pink yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Repeat (1 inc, 2 sc) 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

Work 1 sc in each st around using blo (24)

Round 6 :

8 sc, 1 dec, repeat (1 sc, 1 dec) twice, 8 sc (21)

Round 7 :

5 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc (19)

Round 8 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (18)

Info :

Work 1 sc in the next stitch and mark this as the new end of the round. Switch to Light Pink yarn.

Round 9 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (18)

Round 10 :

8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (17)

Info :

Stuff the hoof firmly. Shape the foot with a long vertical stitch from Round 8 down to the start, pulling tightly.

Round 11 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (17)

Round 12 :

3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (15)

Round 13 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (15)

Round 14 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (14)

Round 15 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (14)

Round 16 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (13)

Round 17-28 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (13)

Info :

On the left leg only, work 7 extra sc and mark the last one as the new round end. Insert the 20mm joint between Rounds 27 and 28.

Round 29 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (12)

Round 30 :

2 sc, repeat 1 dec 5 times (7)

Round 31 :

1 sc, 1 dec, leaving remaining stitches unworked (6)

Fasten Off :

Finish stuffing, cut yarn, and use a needle to close the opening by picking up the remaining stitches.

— 6. Body :

Round 1 :

Using Light Pink yarn, create a mr and work 6 sc into it (6)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc in every st around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Repeat (1 inc, 2 sc) 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

Repeat (3 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (4 sc, 1 inc) 5 times, finishing with 3 sc (36)

Round 7 :

Repeat (5 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (42)

Round 8-14 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (42)

Info :

Attach the legs to the sides of the body between Rounds 8 and 9.

Round 15 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc (38)

Round 16 :

18 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc (37)

Round 17 :

Repeat (11 sc, 1 dec) twice, 11 sc (35)

Round 18 :

4 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (33)

Round 19 :

16 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc (32)

Round 20 :

1 dec, 30 sc (31)

Round 21 :

7 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (29)

Round 22 :

14 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc (28)

Round 23 :

10 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (26)

Round 24 :

Repeat (1 dec, 11 sc) twice (24)

Round 25 :

6 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (22)

Round 26 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (20)

Round 27 :

1 dec, 18 sc (19)

Round 28 :

9 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (18)

Round 29 :

Work 1 sc in each st around (18)

Fasten Off :

1 sl st in next st. Cut yarn and fasten off. Attach arms between Rounds 24 and 25.

— 7. Tail :

Row 1 :

Using Light Pink yarn, ch 11. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, work 2 sc in every ch (20)

Fasten Off :

Cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Stuff the muzzle and sew it to the face just below Round 15 using a whip stitch.
  • Position the 9mm safety eyes between Rounds 16 and 17, leaving 10 stitches between them.
  • Flatten the ears and attach them to the head just below Round 6.
  • Secure the legs to the body between Rounds 8 and 9 using the 20mm plastic joints.
  • Attach the arms to the body between Rounds 24 and 25 using the 15mm plastic joints.
  • Join the head to the neck area of the body using a mattress stitch for a firm connection.
  • Sew the curled tail to the back of the body just above Round 9.

Important Notes

  • 💡Always use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds since we're working in a continuous spiral.
  • 💡When stuffing the limbs, leave a little space at the very top so the joints can sit flush against the body.
  • 💡The invisible decrease method is highly recommended to keep the fabric looking smooth and gap-free.
  • 💡If you don't have plastic joints, you can use buttons or even just strong thread to make the limbs poseable.
  • 💡Embroider the nostrils and facial details before attaching the head to the body to make it easier to hide your yarn tails.

I hope you enjoy every stitch of making Lily! There's something so satisfying about seeing her little face come together, especially once those eyes are in place. Whether you're making her for a little one or just to brighten up your own craft room, she's sure to bring a smile. Don't forget to take your time with the assembly—that's where her true personality really starts to shine through. Happy crafting! 🧶 ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Can I use safety eyes instead of plastic joints for the limbs?

Yes! Large safety eyes work similarly to joints. Just make sure the washer is secure so the limbs don't pop off during play.

What if I want to use a heavier yarn like worsted weight?

You can certainly do that, but Lily will turn out much larger. You'll also need to increase your hook size and eye size accordingly.

Why does my muzzle look round instead of flat?

Make sure you didn't skip the Back Post Single Crochet (bpsc) round. That specific stitch creates the 'shelf' that gives the snout its flat front.

Is the jointed construction difficult for a beginner?

It's a bit more fiddly than sewing limbs on, but the instructions walk you through it. If it feels too tricky, you can always just sew the arms and legs on normally!