🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern

Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern
4.6★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
1.6KMade This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎄

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

About This Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern

Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This wreath makes a genuinely thoughtful handmade gift — the kind someone hangs up year after year and actually looks forward to pulling out of storage every March.

Why You'll Love This Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern

I love this one because it's made up of small, quick pieces — nothing feels overwhelming when you're only working on a tiny shoe or a little shamrock at a time. There's something really fun about the bubble stitch beard too; it's one of those techniques that looks impressive but once you've done a row or two it just clicks. And honestly, seeing it all come together on the wreath at the end? That moment never gets old for me. It's the kind of project that makes you feel like you really made something.

Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern step 1 Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern step 2 Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern step 3 Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I'll be honest — I didn't expect to fall this hard for a St. Patrick's Day project. I'm usually a blanket-and-sweater person, and seasonal decor crafts weren't really on my radar. But something about the idea of a little crocheted gnome peeking out from a striped green wreath just got me, and I ended up making this over two evenings with a cup of tea and some background TV, completely absorbed.

What I really like about how this one is structured is that you're never sitting there dreading the next piece. The wreath cover is long — 125 rows — but it's completely meditative. Same stitch, same count, just a color change every few rows to keep it interesting. I actually looked forward to those stripe transitions. Then you've got these small individual pieces: the hat, the beard, the nose, the hands, the shoes. Each one is its own little win. Finish a shoe, feel accomplished, move on.

The bubble stitch beard was the part I was most nervous about, and it ended up being my favorite. Once you've done that stitch two or three times it genuinely becomes satisfying — there's something about that pull-through-all-six-loops moment that feels very deliberately tactile. And the texture it creates is just so right for a gnome beard.

If I were making this again — and I probably will, because a few people have already asked me to — I'd try the beard in a deep auburn instead of the standard orange, just to see how it photographs. I'd also consider doing two or three gnomes at slightly different scales, if you want to fill out the wreath more.

One practical tip: cut your color-change tails a little long and work them into your stitches as you go on the wreath cover. Future you will be genuinely grateful when there are barely any ends left to weave at the finish line.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the wreath strip into a circle at Row 125, it's easy to accidentally twist the band — lay it flat and confirm the stripes are all facing the same direction before you sl st across.✗ The gnome hat uses the HDCFS foundation stitch for Round 1, and if you substitute a regular chain start instead, the brim won't lie flat — take the time to work the foundation stitch correctly or the hat opening will pucker.✗ When stuffing the nose, it's tempting to pack it too firmly, which makes it difficult to pinch the opening flat and sl st it closed neatly — use just enough fiberfill to give it a rounded shape and no more.✗ Attaching the beard to the hat bottom before adding the nose is a step many crafters skip or reverse — the beard goes in first at the lower edge, then the nose is centered on top of it, and sewing them in the wrong order makes the nose sit off-center.✗ The shoes need only a very light stuffing — overstuffing them makes the toe area round instead of gently elongated, and they won't sit at a natural angle when sewn to the wreath.✗ When sewing the wreath cover onto the foam base, not matching up the color stripes as you sew along creates a visible misalignment at the seam — pin the stripes in place every few inches before stitching to keep them lined up.

Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern

If you've been looking for a St. Patrick's Day project that actually makes your front door look like something special, this is it. You'll crochet a striped green wreath cover, a pointy gnome hat, a textured orange beard, a little rounded nose, two tiny hands, a pair of stuffed shoes, and a handful of shamrocks — then bring them all together on a foam wreath base. Every piece is manageable on its own, and watching them come together into one cohesive decoration is genuinely satisfying. This pattern is written clearly, and the construction is forgiving enough that you won't be pulling your hair out. Make one for your door, one as a gift — honestly, you'll probably want to make more than one.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Lucky Gnome St. Patrick's Day Wreath Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Lime Green for the wreath stripe band — labeled Color A in the pattern
  • 02
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Light Green for the wreath stripe band — labeled Color B
  • 03
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Forest Green for the wreath stripe band and gnome hat — labeled Color C
  • 04
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Dark Green for the wreath stripe band and shamrocks — labeled Color D
  • 05
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in White for the wreath stripe band — labeled Color E
  • 06
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in a peach or skin tone shade for the gnome nose and hands
  • 07
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Brown for the gnome shoes
  • 08
    Worsted weight (size 4) yarn in Orange for the gnome beard
  • 09
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for the hat, nose, hands, and shoes

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0 mm crochet hook — used for the wreath cover, gnome hat, beard, nose, hands, and shoes
  • 02
    5.0 mm crochet hook — used for the shamrocks only
  • 03
    Tapestry or yarn needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    10-inch foam wreath form as the base
  • 06
    Approximately 40 inches of Color A yarn set aside separately for sewing the wreath cover onto the foam form

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Wreath Cover (Rotating Greens — 4mm hook) :

Info :

Color key: Lime Green = A, Light Green = B, Forest Green = C, Dark Green = D, White = E. Work flat in rows of 20 SC throughout. Every row after Row 1 is identical in stitch — only the color changes. The full color sequence below is repeated 5 times total (125 rows). When switching colors, complete the last stitch of the current row with the new color for clean transitions, and work yarn tails into stitches as you go to reduce end weaving later.

Row 1 :

Using Color A, CH 21. SC into the 2nd CH from the hook, then SC across the remaining chains. CH 1, turn. (20)

Row 2 :

SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20) — This is a good point to test-wrap the strip around your foam wreath. It should fit snugly. Adjust your starting chain up or down by a few stitches if needed before continuing.

Info :

Color sequence for one full repeat (25 rows): 2 rows in A (Rows 1–2 already done), 3 rows in B, 4 rows in C, 1 row in D, 1 row in E, 4 rows in A, 2 rows in B, 1 row in C, 4 rows in D, 3 rows in E. Repeat this entire sequence 4 more times for a total of 5 complete repeats = 125 rows.

Rows 3-5 :

Color B — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Rows 6-9 :

Color C — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Row 10 :

Color D — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Row 11 :

Color E — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Rows 12-15 :

Color A — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Rows 16-17 :

Color B — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Row 18 :

Color C — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Rows 19-22 :

Color D — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20)

Rows 23-25 :

Color E — SC across all stitches, CH 1, turn. (20) — This completes one full color repeat. Work Rows 26–125 by repeating this same 25-row color sequence four more times.

Info :

Continue repeating the 25-row sequence until you have completed 125 rows total. Every row is SC across 20 stitches.

Joining :

Fold the strip so the right sides face each other and the short ends meet. Insert your hook through the first stitch of Row 125 and the first stitch of Row 1 simultaneously, then SL ST across all stitches to join the two ends into a ring. (20 SL ST)

Finishing :

Slide the joined ring over the foam wreath form with the right side facing out. Cut a strand of Color A roughly 40 inches long and use it to whipstitch or mattress stitch the long open edges of the cover together around the wreath, keeping the color stripes aligned as you sew. Tuck any stray yarn tails inside as you go. Weave in all remaining ends.

— 2. Gnome Hat (Forest Green — 4mm hook) :

Round 1 :

Using Forest Green, work HDCFS 38, then join the last stitch to the first with a SL ST to form a ring — make sure the foundation chain isn't twisted before joining. You'll now work continuously in rounds. (38)

Round 2-7 :

HDC in every stitch around. (38)

Round 8 :

*HDC in next 4 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 5 times, HDC, HDC. (32)

Round 9 :

HDC all the way around. (32)

Round 10 :

*HDC in next 6 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (28)

Round 11 :

HDC around. (28)

Round 12 :

HDC around. (28)

Round 13 :

*HDC in next 5 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (24)

Round 14 :

HDC around. (24)

Round 15 :

HDC around. (24)

Round 16 :

*HDC in next 4 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (20)

Round 17 :

HDC around. (20)

Round 18 :

*HDC in next 3 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (16)

Round 19 :

HDC all the way around. (16)

Round 20 :

HDC all the way around. (16)

Round 21 :

*HDC in next 2 ST, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (12)

Round 22 :

HDC all the way around. (12)

Round 23 :

*HDC, HDC2TOG* repeat 3 times. (8)

Round 24 :

HDC2TOG 4 times. (4) Leave a long tail, cut yarn, and pull the end through the last stitch. Thread the tail onto your needle and run it through the front loops only of the 4 remaining stitches all the way around. Pull firmly to close the top of the hat, then weave through a couple more times to secure. Give the hat a very light fill of fiberfill — just a little to hold the shape — and set aside.

— 3. Beard (Orange — 4mm hook) :

Info :

Bubble Stitch (BS): YO, insert hook into stitch, YO, pull yarn through the stitch, YO, pull through first 2 loops on hook — repeat this sequence 3 more times in the same stitch until you have 6 loops on the hook. YO and draw through all 6 loops at once.

Row 1 :

CH 4, turn. SC into the 2nd CH from hook, work 1 BS into the next CH, SC into the last CH. CH 1, turn. (3 stitches)

Row 2 :

2SC in first stitch, SC, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (5)

Row 3 :

SC, BS, SC, BS, SC. CH 1, turn. (5)

Row 4 :

2SC in first stitch, SC in next 3 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (7)

Row 5 :

SC, BS, SC, BS, SC, BS, SC. CH 1, turn. (7)

Row 6 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 5 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (9)

Row 7 :

SC, BS, SC, BS, SC, BS, SC, BS, SC. CH 1, turn. (9)

Row 8 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 7 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (11)

Row 9 :

*SC, BS* 4 times, SC. CH 1, turn. (11)

Row 10 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 9 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (13)

Row 11 :

*SC, BS* 5 times, SC. CH 1, turn. (13)

Row 12 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 11 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (15)

Row 13 :

*SC, BS* 6 times, SC. CH 1, turn. (15)

Row 14 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 13 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (17)

Row 15 :

*SC, BS* 7 times, SC. CH 1, turn. (17)

Row 16 :

2SC in first stitch, SC across next 15 stitches, 2SC in last stitch. CH 1, turn. (19)

Row 17 :

SC in each stitch across. (19) Tie off and weave in all ends.

Info :

Note: The pattern labels the final row as Row 15 a second time — this appears to be a numbering error in the source. The row that reads 'sc in each st across (19)' is the last row after Row 16, and has been labeled here as Row 17 for clarity. Verify your stitch count of 19 before tying off.

— 4. Nose (Skin/Peach Color — 4mm hook) :

Round 1 :

SC 6 times into a MC. Pull the ring tight. (6)

Round 2 :

2SC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

*2SC, 1SC* repeat 5 times. (18)

Round 4 :

*2SC, 1SC, 1SC* repeat 5 times. (24)

Round 5 :

SC all the way around. (24)

Round 6 :

SC all the way around. (24)

Round 7 :

*SC, SC, SC2TOG* repeat 5 times. (18)

Round 8 :

SC all the way around. (18)

Round 9 :

*SC, SC2TOG* repeat 5 times. (12) Stuff with fiberfill now.

Round 10 :

*SC, SC, SC2TOG* repeat 2 times. (9)

Round 11 :

SC around. (9) Pinch the opening flat so both edges line up, then SL ST across through both layers to close. Tie off and leave a tail for assembly.

— 5. Hand/Arm (Skin/Peach Color into Forest Green — 4mm hook) :

Round 1 :

SC 6 times into a MC. Pull ring tight. (6)

Round 2 :

2SC in every stitch around. (12)

Round 3 :

*2SC, 1SC* repeat 5 times. (18)

Round 4 :

SC all the way around. (18)

Round 5 :

SC all the way around. (18)

Round 6 :

*SC, SC2TOG* repeat 5 times. (12)

Round 7 :

BS in first stitch, SC in every remaining stitch around. (12)

Round 8 :

*SC, SC, SC2TOG* repeat 2 times. (9) Lightly stuff the rounded hand portion only — don't stuff the arm section.

Round 9 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Color Change :

Switch to Forest Green yarn.

Round 10 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 11 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 12 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 13 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 14 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 15 :

SC all the way around. (9)

Round 16 :

SC all the way around. (9) Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing onto the wreath. Make a second hand/arm the same way.

— 6. Shoes (Brown — 4mm hook) :

Round 1 :

CH 6. Starting in the 2nd CH from the hook: SC in next 4 chains, work 4SC into the last chain (the toe end). Now rotate and crochet along the opposite side of the starting chain: SC in next 3 chains, then work 3SC into the very last chain. (14)

Round 2 :

2SC, SC in next 3 stitches, 2SC, 2SC, 2SC, 2SC, SC in next 3 stitches, 2SC, 2SC, 2SC. (22)

Round 3 :

SC in next 5 stitches, *2SC, SC* repeat 3 times, SC in next 5 stitches, *2SC, SC* repeat 1 time. (28)

Round 4 :

Working through back loops only: SC all the way around. (28)

Round 5 :

SC in next 5 stitches, *SC2TOG, SC, SC* repeat 3 times, SC in next 7 stitches. (24)

Round 6 :

SC in next 3 stitches, *SC2TOG, SC, SC* repeat 3 times, SC in next 5 stitches. (20) Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the shoe loosely. Make a second shoe the same way.

— 7. Shamrock (Dark Green — 5mm hook) :

Info :

Use the 5mm hook for shamrocks. You can start with either a CH 4 joined with a SL ST into a ring, or a MC — both work the same way.

Petals :

Into the ring: *CH 3, TR, DC, TR, CH 3, SL ST into the ring* — repeat this sequence 2 more times to create 3 petals total.

Stem :

CH 5. Working back along the chain: SC into the 2nd CH from the hook, SL ST into each of the next 3 chains, then SL ST into the center ring to anchor. Tie off and leave a tail long enough for sewing to the wreath. Make as many shamrocks as desired.

— 8. Hanger :

Info :

Using any remaining yarn and the 4mm hook, work HDCFS 20. Fold the strip in half to form a loop and sew both ends securely to the back or top of the wreath. This serves as the hanging loop.

Assembly Instructions

  • Slide the finished striped wreath cover onto the 10-inch foam form with the right side facing out, then use a roughly 40-inch length of Lime Green yarn to sew the long open edges of the cover together all the way around the wreath, carefully matching the color stripes at the seam as you go.
  • Tuck the narrow top end of the beard into the lower opening of the hat, centering it carefully so the triangle shape fans out below the brim, then position the stuffed nose on top of the beard end — centered — and sew through all layers to hold both pieces flat and secure against the hat.
  • Sew the assembled hat-beard-nose unit to the bottom of the wreath, positioning it roughly at the 6 o'clock point so the hat brim lies against the wreath and the beard and nose hang just below.
  • Attach one hand/arm to each side of the hat, angling them outward and slightly downward as if the gnome is gesturing — pin them first and check the look from the front before sewing.
  • Position one shoe beneath each hand at a matching outward angle, so they appear to be the gnome's feet peeking out under the wreath, and sew each shoe securely to the wreath surface.
  • Optionally tack the pointed tip of the hat down against the wreath for a curled, more playful look — a few invisible stitches through the tip and into the hat body will hold it.
  • Sew the shamrocks wherever they look best — one or two on the hat and the rest scattered around the sides of the wreath. Finally, fold the HDCFS 20 hanger strip in half and sew both ends to the back or top of the wreath so it can be hung.

Important Notes

  • 💡Work the wreath cover yarn tails directly into your stitches as you change colors — this dramatically cuts down on end weaving later and keeps the back of the wreath tidy.
  • 💡Always complete the last pull-through of each stitch with the new color when switching — doing it mid-stitch instead of between stitches gives you a cleaner, sharper color stripe.
  • 💡The HDCFS foundation stitch for Round 1 of the hat is load-bearing for the brim's shape — if you're not familiar with it, practice the stitch on a swatch before starting the hat so the brim lies flat.
  • 💡When closing the hat tip in Round 24, run the yarn tail through the front loops only of the remaining 4 stitches — this pulls the top closed more neatly than going through both loops.
  • 💡The bubble stitch rows of the beard alternate with plain SC increase rows — keep careful track of which rows are texture rows and which are increase rows, as mixing them up will throw off the beard's triangular shape.
  • 💡Stuff the shoes loosely — they're meant to look soft and worn, not round. Overstuffing will make them look more like balls than footwear and they'll be harder to sew flat against the wreath.
  • 💡Test-wrap your wreath strip around the foam form after Row 2 and adjust your stitch count before continuing — it's much easier to add or remove a few stitches at the very start than to recount 125 rows later.

There's something really lovely about a handmade wreath — it tells anyone who walks through your door that someone put time and care into making a space feel special. This lucky gnome is charming enough to become a yearly tradition, and once you've made one, I'd bet you'll want to make a second for someone you love. 🍀 The construction is manageable, the pieces are fun to work up individually, and putting it all together on the foam base is genuinely satisfying. Hang it up, stand back, and feel good about what your hands made. Happy crocheting! 🧶✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Do I need to know the half double crochet foundation stitch before starting this pattern?

You'll need it for two spots — the hat's first round and the hanger at the end. If it's new to you, take 10 minutes to practice it on a scrap piece of yarn before starting. Once it clicks, it goes quickly. There are good free tutorials available by searching 'HDCFS crochet tutorial' on any video platform.

Can I skip the foam wreath form and just use the crocheted cover on its own?

The foam form is really what gives the wreath its structure and round shape. Without it, the crocheted strip will lie flat and floppy — it won't hold its circle shape on its own. A 10-inch foam wreath form is inexpensive and widely available at dollar stores and craft shops.

What does the bubble stitch actually look like, and is it hard?

The BS creates a raised, rounded bobble texture that gives the beard a fluffy, dimensional look — perfect for an orange gnome beard. It's essentially a multi-wrap cluster stitch worked into a single stitch. It can feel awkward the first time, but by Row 3 or 4 of the beard it becomes very natural. Read through the bubble stitch definition in the abbreviations section before starting Row 1.

How many shamrocks should I make, and can they be any size?

The pattern doesn't specify a fixed number — make as many as looks good to you. Three to five is a nice range for a full-looking wreath. They're made with the 5mm hook rather than the 4mm used for everything else, so switching hooks is important — using the smaller hook will make them noticeably tighter and smaller.

My wreath strip ended up slightly too short or too long for the foam form — what do I do?

This is actually addressed right in Row 2 — after that first test-wrap, add a few stitches to your starting chain if it's too short, or reduce by a few if it's too loose. Since every row is the same stitch count, any adjustment you make in Row 1 carries through all 125 rows automatically. It's best to catch this at the very start.

Can I use acrylic yarn other than the brands listed in the pattern?

Absolutely — any worsted weight (size 4) acrylic in the right colors will work. The key is sticking to the same weight since the hat shaping and wreath cover row counts are sized for worsted. A lighter yarn would make the hat smaller and the wreath strip narrower than intended.