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Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern
4.3★Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
4.0KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

Lulu makes a truly thoughtful handmade gift — the kind that gets displayed on a shelf rather than tucked away. She's perfect for ocean lovers, nursery decor, or anyone who appreciates the detail that goes into a well-crafted amigurumi doll.

Why You'll Love This Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it genuinely surprised me. I expected a straightforward little doll, but the eye-modelling technique and that wavy hem detail added so much character I kept stopping just to look at her. The colour combinations are where the real fun is — I've made four versions and every one feels like a completely different mermaid. There's something deeply satisfying about a project that rewards patience with so much personality.

Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I have a soft spot for crochet projects that look complicated but are actually just patient and methodical — and Lulu is exactly that. She intimidated me the first time I looked at the pattern. Six yarn colours, embroidered details, a removable wig, and this eye-modelling technique I had never tried before. But once I sat down and actually started, she came together round by round in a way that felt almost meditative.

The eye technique was the thing I was most nervous about. You pull threads through the head to recess the safety eyes inward, and it sounds fiddly — but the moment both eyes sank into place and that little face suddenly looked expressive and soft, I genuinely gasped. It takes about three minutes and it makes a huge difference. Don't skip it.

My favourite part of making Lulu is choosing the colour combination. The pattern gives you four gorgeous options but honestly the possibilities are wide open. I've made a pale pink version with ivory hair and a dusty blue tail that turned out so dreamy. I've also made a deep terracotta version with an olive tail that looked unexpectedly earthy and modern. The colour you choose changes her personality completely.

One tip I'd pass on: crochet the hair strands last, after everything else is assembled. It's much easier to judge the right placement when the face is already finished and you can see exactly where the hairline will fall. And use a longer needle than you think you need — the extra length makes sewing through the wig layers so much easier.

Lulu is a project I keep coming back to. She works beautifully as a handmade gift and she photographs so well. There's something genuinely lovely about making a whole little world for a tiny mermaid.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When attaching the hair wig, it's easy to place it too far forward or back — hold it up against the head and check that the bottom edge sits at an equal distance from both eyes before pinning or sewing.✗ The tail needs to be filled progressively as you work — if you wait until the end to stuff it, you won't be able to get the fill into the narrow lower section properly, and it'll stay flat and shapeless at the tip.✗ The wavy hem is worked into the front loops of Round 28 only — if you accidentally work into both loops, the wavy ruffle won't sit outward correctly and the colour-change ridge will look different from the intended effect.✗ When using the thread-pull technique to recess the safety eyes, it's easy to pull unevenly — always use a single long thread looped through the needle and pull both ends at equal tension simultaneously, or one eye will sit deeper than the other.✗ The hair strands are sewn from the top of the head downward ending at eye level — if you sew them lower than that, they'll cover the face and the expression will be hidden.✗ The fins are left completely unstuffed — if you accidentally add any fill, they lose their flat, fin-like shape and start to look like small misshapen balls instead of tail fins.

Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

Meet Lulu — a dreamy little mermaid with a flowing hair wig, sweet embroidered features, and a tail that curves into a gorgeous s-shape. This pattern walks you through every single detail, from her gently stuffed buns to the tiny shell bustier stitched right onto her body. You'll crochet her in cotton yarn using a 2.5mm hook, and the whole process feels genuinely enjoyable — the kind of project you pick up and don't want to put down. Whether you're making her as a gift or keeping her for your own shelf, she comes out looking like something truly special.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Lulu the Mermaid Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton yarn in six colours, each ball approximately 115 yards / 50g — you'll need around 25g in your chosen skin tone (Colour A)
  • 02
    Approximately 15g of cotton yarn in your chosen hair colour (Colour B)
  • 03
    Approximately 17g of cotton yarn for the tail and fins (Colour C)
  • 04
    A small amount of cotton yarn for the wavy hem trim (Colour D) — no weight specified, but a few meters will do
  • 05
    A small amount of cotton yarn for the hair flower or flower crown (Colour E)
  • 06
    A small amount of cotton yarn for the embroidered shell bustier (Colour F)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    2.5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Safety eyes — 8mm for dolls 2 and 3, or 9mm for dolls 1 and 4
  • 03
    Sharp sewing needle suitable for both sewing seams and embroidery work
  • 04
    Thin cotton embroidery or sewing thread in black or brown for eyebrow embroidery
  • 05
    White cotton thread for adding the white-of-eye highlight
  • 06
    Polyfiber filling / polyfill stuffing
  • 07
    Straight pins for positioning pieces before sewing
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pink blush powder and a small brush for coloring the cheeks and flower center
  • 10
    Optional: stitch marker to track round beginnings
  • 11
    Optional: thin sewing thread in a hair-matching colour for attaching hair strands more neatly
  • 12
    Optional: small foam curler (2-3cm section) to stabilize the neck joint from inside

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds throughout. Use Colour A (skin tone).

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

Work inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc. (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc. (48)

Round 9 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 10 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 11 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 12 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 13 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 14 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 15 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 16 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 17 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 18 :

48 sc. (48)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between Rounds 16 and 17, with 11 visible stitches between them.

Round 19 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc. (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6. (36)

Round 21 :

2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc. (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)

Round 23 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc. (18)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head with polyfill at this point.

Round 24 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Info :

Finish with 1 sl st, cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Continue stuffing fully, especially at the neck, making sure the head is evenly rounded without any lumps. Don't overstuff — if stitches stretch and gaps appear, remove some filling.

— 2. Hair Wig :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Use Colour B (hair colour).

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

Work inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc. (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6. (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc. (48)

Round 9 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 10 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 11 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 12 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 13 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 14 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 15 :

48 sc. (48)

Round 16 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc. (42)

Info :

Finish with 1 sl st, cut and fasten off. Weave the yarn tail into the inside of the wig. If this doll is for a young child, sew the wig onto the head for safety.

— 3. Hair Strand (make 2) :

Info :

Work in rows. Use Colour B (hair colour).

Foundation :

Chain 20, then turn the chain. (20)

Row 1 :

Starting into the 3rd chain from the hook, work dc inc across the full length. (36)

Info :

Cut yarn and pull through the remaining loop to secure.

— 4. Bun (make 2) :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Use Colour B (hair colour).

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

Work inc in each st around. (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 5 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc. (18)

Round 7 :

dec x 9. (9)

Info :

Finish with 1 sl st, cut yarn leaving a long tail for sewing the bun onto the wig. Lightly stuff the bun before closing.

— 5. Ear (make 2, optional) :

Info :

Use Colour A (skin tone). Ears are optional — most versions of this doll are made without them.

Round 1 :

Work 3 sc into a MR. Cut yarn and pull through the remaining loop. At the finish, gently tug the starting tail to close the MR snugly.

— 6. Arm (make 2) :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Use Colour A (skin tone).

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

(2 sc, inc) x 2. (8)

Round 3 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 4 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 5 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 6 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 7 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 8 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 9 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 10 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 11 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 12 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 13 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 14 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 15 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 16 :

8 sc. (8)

Round 17 :

8 sc. (8)

Info :

Do not stuff the arm. Flatten it so both sides align, then join them together by working 3 sc through both layers. Cut yarn leaving a long tail and fasten off.

— 7. Tail & Body :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds from the base of the tail up through the body. Begin with Colour C (tail/fin colour). Start adding polyfill very early as you go — loosely at the narrow tip, more firmly as the shape widens.

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 3. (9)

Round 3 :

9 sc. (9)

Round 4 :

9 sc. (9)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, inc) x 3. (12)

Round 6 :

dec, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc. (12)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, inc) x 3. (15)

Round 8 :

dec, 6 sc, inc, 6 sc. (15)

Round 9 :

(4 sc, inc) x 3. (18)

Round 10 :

dec, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc. (18)

Round 11 :

(5 sc, inc) x 3. (21)

Round 12 :

dec, 9 sc, inc, 9 sc. (21)

Round 13 :

(6 sc, inc) x 3. (24)

Round 14 :

dec, 10 sc, inc, 11 sc. (24)

Round 15 :

(7 sc, inc) x 3. (27)

Round 16 :

dec, 12 sc, inc, 12 sc. (27)

Round 17 :

(8 sc, inc) x 3. (30)

Round 18 :

dec, 13 sc, inc, 14 sc. (30)

Round 19 :

(9 sc, inc) x 3. (33)

Round 20 :

dec, 15 sc, inc, 15 sc. (33)

Round 21 :

(10 sc, inc) x 3. (36)

Round 22 :

dec, 16 sc, inc, 17 sc. (36)

Round 23 :

dec, 16 sc, inc, 17 sc. (36)

Round 24 :

36 sc. (36)

Round 25 :

36 sc. (36)

Round 26 :

36 sc. (36)

Round 27 :

(10 sc, dec) x 3. (33)

Colour Change :

Switch to Colour A (skin tone) at the end of Round 27.

Round 28 :

33 sc worked into BLO only. (33)

Round 29 :

33 sc. (33)

Round 30 :

33 sc. (33)

Round 31 :

(9 sc, dec) x 3. (30)

Round 32 :

30 sc. (30)

Round 33 :

30 sc. (30)

Round 34 :

(8 sc, dec) x 3. (27)

Round 35 :

27 sc. (27)

Round 36 :

27 sc. (27)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 3. (24)

Round 38 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 39 :

1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc. (18)

Round 40 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Info :

Finish with 1 sl st, cut yarn and fasten off. Weave in the tail neatly.

— 8. Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Use Colour C (tail colour). Do not stuff the fins.

Round 1 :

Work 6 sc into a MR. (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc. (6)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 3. (9)

Round 4 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc. (12)

Round 5 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 6 :

1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, 1 sc. (24)

Round 7 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 8 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 9 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 10 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 11 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 12 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 13 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 14 :

24 sc. (24)

Round 15 :

dec x 12. (12)

Round 16 :

dec x 6. (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not add any stuffing — these should remain flat.

— 9. Wavy Hem :

Info :

Use Colour D. The wavy hem is worked directly into the front loops left from Round 28 of the tail/body.

Round 1 :

Join with a standing sc into the very first front loop of Round 28. Then work the following pattern: (skip 2 sts, 5 dc into the next st, skip 2 sts, 1 sc into the next st) x 5. On the final repeat, skip only 1 st instead of 2 so that you end up with 6 waves evenly spaced around. Finish with 1 sl st into the first sc of this round.

Info :

Cut yarn, fasten off, and weave in both tails carefully.

— 10. Flower (optional hair accessory) :

Info :

Use Colour E. Leave a long starting tail before beginning the MR — you'll use it to close the centre later.

Round 1 :

Into the MR, work: (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc into the 2nd chain from the hook) x 5. Join with a sl st into the first sc.

Info :

Cut yarn and fasten off. Pull the starting tail to draw the MR closed, then weave in the tail. Use a small brush to dab pink blush onto the centre of the flower. You can also make several flowers and place them in a line along the hairline to form a flower crown, as shown on doll 3.

— 11. Eye Modelling & Embroidery Details :

Info :

Eye modelling: After all pieces are crocheted, use a sharp needle and a long strand of Colour A. Thread it through the head passing very close beside one safety eye, bringing both ends out through the base opening. Use one of those ends to repeat the same motion beside the second eye. Pull both thread ends firmly and evenly until both eyes sink inward. Tie them off tightly and push the thread ends inside the head. You can add a small amount of extra stuffing at this stage if needed.

Info :

White of the eye: Using a long white cotton thread and a needle, embroider a small highlight stitch at the outer corner of each eye. Knot the threads at the base of the head and tuck the ends inside.

Info :

Eyebrows: Using a thin dark thread (black or brown), embroider each eyebrow diagonally over 1.5 stitches, positioned 2 rounds above the eye. Alternatively, as seen on doll 4, the eyebrows can be placed directly above the eye and span 2.5 stitches.

Info :

Nose: Cut a long tail from Colour A. Between Rounds 16 and 17, embroider 2 short horizontal stitches over 2–3 sts each to form the nose. Rather than sewing through the fabric, wrap the needle tightly around the horizontal stitches to secure them.

Info :

Cheeks: Using a small brush, lightly dust pink blush onto both cheeks of the finished face.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position the hair wig centred over the head so it sits at an equal distance from both eyes, then either leave it in place (it fits snugly) or sew it on with a few stitches if the doll is intended for a young child.
  • Pin both hair strands symmetrically along the hairline on opposite sides of the head, then sew each one from the crown downward, ending at approximately eye level, using a long needle and matching thread.
  • Pin both buns just below where the hair strands meet the hairline, securing them with pins before sewing around all 9 stitches from the final round of each bun. If making optional ears, sew them at eye level right beside the hairline, using both thread tails for a secure hold.
  • Insert an optional piece of foam curler (about 2–3cm) halfway into the top opening of the body before joining — this stabilises the neck joint from inside once the head is sewn on.
  • Sew the head onto the top of the body, aligning it so the tail curves away at the back and the whole silhouette forms a gentle s-shape when viewed from the side.
  • Attach both arms on the right and left sides of the body between Rounds 39 and 40, angling them diagonally backward. Sew both thread tails securely.
  • Sew each fin to the tail starting at Round 4 and working downward. Both fins can be positioned at slightly different angles for a natural, lively look. Finish by embroidering the shell bustier in Colour F at chest level between Rounds 7 and 8 from the bottom of the body — 4 stitches total forming two shells, with the 2 outer stitches spanning 3 sts diagonally and the 2 inner ones spanning 2 sts, separated by 4 sts between the shells.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use the invisible decrease method throughout — it keeps the fabric surface smooth and prevents the gaps that show up with a standard decrease, especially on the head and tail where the tension matters most.
  • 💡The colour change from tail colour C to skin colour A must happen mid-stitch at the end of Round 27 — bring the new yarn over on the final pull-through so the colour swap happens cleanly at the beginning of Round 28.
  • 💡Round 28 of the tail is worked into the back loops only, which leaves the front loops free for the wavy hem to be added later — if you miss the BLO instruction here, you won't have loops to attach the hem to.
  • 💡Fill the tail as you go, not all at once at the end — pack it very loosely at the narrow tip and gradually firmer as the shape widens. Waiting until the end makes the tip impossible to fill properly.
  • 💡When embroidering the nose, wrap the thread around the horizontal stitches rather than sewing through the fabric — this keeps the surface of the face clean and gives a neater, more dimensional result.
  • 💡The finished height is approximately 26cm when using cotton yarn at the listed weight and hook size. If you substitute yarn or change hook size, your safety eye sizes may need adjusting to stay in proportion.

Lulu is one of those projects that becomes a little obsession — once you've made one mermaid, you'll want to make all four colour versions. She's small enough to finish in a weekend but detailed enough to feel genuinely proud of. The embroidered face, the sculpted eyes, the tiny wavy hem — it all comes together into something that looks far more complex than it actually is. She's perfect as a gift, as nursery decor, or just as a little handmade treasure sitting on your shelf. 🧶 Pack her with love and she'll be cherished for years. ✨

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FAQs

What yarn weight should I use for Lulu the mermaid?

The pattern is written for cotton yarn at approximately 115 yards per 50g, which falls in the light DK range. Using a heavier yarn will produce a noticeably larger doll and may make the face features harder to embroider neatly at the correct scale. Stick to a similar weight for best results.

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton for this pattern?

You can, but cotton gives a much tighter, crisper fabric at 2.5mm — which is what makes Lulu's face and tail look so clean. Acrylic at the same hook size tends to be stretchier, which can cause gaps around the safety eyes and make the wavy hem look less defined.

How do I keep the eyes from looking uneven after the thread-pull technique?

Thread a single long strand through both needle holes so you're pulling one continuous piece of yarn. When you pull to recess the eyes, grip both ends and pull at the same rate at the same time rather than pulling one side first. Checking from the front while you tension the thread helps a lot.

The hair wig keeps shifting off the head — how do I fix it?

The wig is designed to fit snugly without sewing for decorative use, but if it keeps moving, just tack it down with a few hidden stitches using a matching thread at the hairline. For dolls that will be played with by children, the pattern specifically recommends sewing it on properly.

Can I skip the foam curler stabiliser in the neck?

Yes, it's optional. Without it, the head will be slightly more wobbly on the body — which is fine for a shelf display piece. If you're making Lulu as a toy or want the head to sit upright more firmly, cutting a 2–3cm section of foam curler and inserting it into the body opening before joining the head makes a real difference.

How many flowers do I need for the flower crown version like doll 3?

The pattern doesn't give a specific number, but typically 5 to 7 small flowers spaced evenly across the hairline creates the crown effect shown. Make them first, lay them out along the hairline before sewing to find the spacing that looks right for your doll's head size.