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Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern

Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern
3.9★Rating
3-5 HoursTime Needed
1.1KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Quick Craft

Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern

Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This pattern makes a gorgeous statement piece for your home—it's sophisticated enough for a formal living room but cozy enough for a heirloom nursery blanket.

Why You'll Love This Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern

I honestly loved the way the colors play together in this design. Using the post stitches to create that 3D floral effect is so satisfying—you really get to see the 'forget-me-not' bloom as you work through the layers!

Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern step 1 Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern step 2 Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern step 3 Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There’s something so grounding about working on a project that requires your full attention, and the Miosotis square is exactly that for me. I first picked up this pattern during a particularly rainy week, and honestly, the rhythmic dance of post stitches and clusters was the perfect distraction. Ana Morais Soares has such a gift for creating these 'blooming' designs where the texture feels almost architectural.

When you're working on the central flower, don't be afraid if it looks a bit 'ruffly' at first—that’s just the nature of these high-relief stitches! Once you transition into the squaring-off rounds, everything begins to settle and flatten out beautifully. I personally chose to use a slightly tighter tension than usual to really make those puff stitches stand out like little pearls. If you're planning to make a full blanket, I’d suggest blocking each square as you go. It makes the final joining process so much more satisfying when every edge is crisp and every corner is perfectly square. This pattern is a wonderful way to play with a gradient of blues, but it would look equally stunning in autumnal rusts and creams if you want a different vibe!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ In Round 3, the treble stitches are worked behind the chain spaces from the previous round; if you work over them instead, you'll lose that beautiful sense of depth.✗ The picots in Round 4 need to be pushed forward when you work Round 5, otherwise they'll get buried under the new stitches and lose their impact.✗ When you reach the squaring-off phase in Round 11, make sure your corner dc stitches are worked into the correct sc to keep the square perfectly symmetrical.✗ Pay close attention to the BLO instructions in the later rounds; skipping the back loop only technique will make the texture look flat and lose the ridged effect.

Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern

I've always loved how a simple hook and some yarn can turn into something as intricate as this Miosotis square. It’s inspired by the delicate forget-me-not flower, and you'll find yourself falling for the way the textures build up round by round. Your hands will stay busy with all those lovely post stitches and puff details, making it a truly engaging project. It’s one of those pieces that feels like a real accomplishment once that final border is finished, and it looks absolutely stunning as the centerpiece of a handmade blanket.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Miosotis Floral Granny Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    One 50g ball of Scheepjes Stonewashed XL in Blue Apatite
  • 02
    One 50g ball of Scheepjes Stonewashed XL in Crystal Quartz
  • 03
    One 50g ball of Scheepjes Stonewashed XL in Moon Stone
  • 04
    One 50g ball of Scheepjes Stonewashed XL in Amazonite

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. The Floral Center :

Round 1 :

(color A) Start with a magic ring, ch3 & a 2dc-CL (this acts as your first 3dc-CL). Work (ch2, 3dc-CL) 5 times. Finish with ch2 & sl st to the top of the first cluster. Keep your yarn attached. (6 3dc-CL, 6 ch2-sp)

Round 2 :

(color A) sl st into the first ch2-sp. ch3 & 2dc-CL (acts as your first 3dc-CL). ch2, then work another 3dc-CL in that same space. ch2, skip the next st. *(3dc-CL, ch2, 3dc-CL) in the next ch2-sp, ch2, skip next st.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times. sl st to the first cluster. Fasten off. (12 3dc-CL, 12 ch2-sp)

— 2. Petals and Texture :

Round 3 :

(color B) Join with a standing FPsc around the first cluster of the previous round that was worked into a Round 1 space. *Work 2 sc into the next ch2-sp, then a FPsc around the next st. Now, work a tr around the 3dc-CL from Round 1 directly below (keep this stitch behind the ch2-sp). FPsc around the next 3dc-CL.** Repeat from * to ** 5 more times, but leave off that last FPsc. sl st to join. Keep yarn attached. (12 FPsc, 6 tr, 12 sc)

Round 4 :

(color B) ch1 (doesn't count as a st), sc in the same st. *ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st. In the next st (the tr from Round 3), work (3 dc, Picot, 3 dc). sc in the next st.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the final sc. sl st to join. Fasten off. (12 sc, 36 dc, 6 Picots, 6 ch3-sp)

Round 5 :

(color C) Join with a standing sc in the first skipped st from the pair worked in Round 3. sc in the next skipped st. Note: these are worked in front of the ch3-sp. ch5. *sc in the next 2 skipped sts from the previous round.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the last 2 sc. sl st to join. Push the Round 4 petals forward in front of the ch5-sp. Keep yarn attached. (12 sc, 6 ch5-sp)

Round 6 :

(color C) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the same st. 2 dc in the next st. *Work 6 dc in the ch5-sp, then 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the last 4 dc. sl st to the top of the ch3. Fasten off. (60 dc)

— 3. Building the Rings :

Round 7 :

(color B) Join with a standing sc in the first dc of any 2-dc group. sc in the next st. *Work a FPtr2tog by placing the first leg around the sc after a Picot from Round 4, and the second leg around the sc before the next Picot. Do not skip the st behind. sc in the next 10 sts.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the last 2 sc. sl st to join. Fasten off. (6 FPtr2tog, 60 sc)

Round 8 :

(color D) Work this entire round in BLO. Join with a standing sc in the st just before any FPtr2tog. *FPsc around the next st (the FPtr2tog), then BLO sc in the next 10 sts.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the last BLO sc. sl st to join. Fasten off. (6 FPsc, 60 BLO sc)

Round 9 :

(color A) Work this entire round in BLO. Join with a standing sc in any FPsc. BLO sc in the next 5 sts. *dc in the Picot from Round 5 (don't skip any sts). BLO sc in the next 11 sts.** Repeat from * to ** 5 times, omitting the last 6 BLO sc. sl st to join. Fasten off. (6 dc, 66 BLO sc)

Round 10 :

(color C) Work in BLO except for the puffs. Join with a standing Puff-st in any dc from Round 9. *BLO sc in the next 5 sts, Puff-st in the next st.** Repeat from * to ** 11 times, omitting the last Puff-st. sl st to join. Fasten off. (12 Puff-st, 60 BLO sc)

— 4. Squaring Off :

Round 11 :

(color A) Join with a standing dc in the 3rd sc after any puff (worked into a dc from Round 9). In that same st, work (ch2, dc, ch2, dc) to create your first corner. *ch2, skip 2 sts, FPhdc around the puff, ch2, skip 2 sts, Puff-st in next st, ch2, skip 2 sts, FPsc around the next puff, ch2, skip 2 sts, Puff-st in next st, ch2, skip 2 sts, FPhdc around the next puff, ch2, skip 2 sts. In the next st, work a corner of (dc, ch2, dc, ch2, dc).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Keep yarn attached. (8 Puff-st, 4 FPsc, 8 FPhdc, 24 ch2-sp, 4 corners)

Round 12 :

(color A) ch3 (counts as first dc). 2 dc in the next ch2-sp. In the next st, work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) for the corner. *2 dc in the next ch2-sp, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next ch2-sp, hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next ch2-sp, FPhdc around the puff, 2 hdc in the next ch2-sp, hdc in the next st, 2 hdc in the next ch2-sp, FPhdc around the puff, 2 hdc in the next ch2-sp, hdc in the next st, 2 dc in the next ch2-sp, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next ch2-sp. Work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in the corner st.** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, omitting the final 3 dc and corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (44 hdc, 56 dc, 8 FPhdc, 4 ch2 corners)

— 5. Final Borders :

Round 13 :

(color D) Work this entire round in BLO. Join with a standing dc in any ch2 corner sp. Work (dc, ch2, 2 dc) in that same space. *BLO dc in the next 9 sts, BLO hdc in the next 9 sts, BLO dc in the next 9 sts. Work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) into the next corner space.** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (36 BLO hdc, 80 BLO dc, 8 dc, 4 ch2 corners)

Round 14 :

(color C) Join with a standing hdc in any ch2 corner. In the same sp, work (ch2, hdc). *BPhdc in the next 31 sts. In the next corner, work (hdc, ch2, hdc).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (8 hdc, 124 BPhdc, 4 ch2 corners)

Round 15 :

(color B) Join with a standing sc in any ch2 corner. In the same sp, work (ch2, sc). *(ch1, skip 1 st, sc in next st) 16 times. ch1, skip the last st. In the corner, work (sc, ch2, sc).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (72 sc, 68 ch1-sp, 4 ch2 corners)

Round 16 :

(color A) Join with a standing sc in any ch2 corner. In the same sp, work (ch2, sc). *(ch1, skip 1 st, sc in next ch1-sp) 17 times. ch1, skip the last st. In the corner, work (sc, ch2, sc).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (76 sc, 72 ch1-sp, 4 ch2 corners)

Round 17 :

(color C) Join with a standing sc in any ch2 corner. In the same sp, work (ch2, sc). *(ch1, skip 1 st, sc in next ch1-sp) 18 times. ch1, skip the last st. In the corner, work (sc, ch2, sc).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (80 sc, 76 ch1-sp, 4 ch2 corners)

Round 18 :

(color B) Join with a standing 2dc-CL in any ch2 corner. Work (ch3, 2dc-CL) in that same space. *ch1, skip 1 st. (Work a Puff-st in the next ch1-sp, ch1, skip 1 st) 19 times. In the next corner, work (2dc-CL, ch3, 2dc-CL).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join. Fasten off. (76 Puff-st, 8 2dc-CL, 80 ch1-sp, 4 ch3 corners)

Round 19 :

(color D) Join with a standing 2dc-CL in any ch3 corner. Work (ch3, 2dc-CL) in the same space. *FPdc around the next cluster, skip the ch1-sp, FPdc around the first puff. (Work hdc in the ch1-sp, then a FPdc around the next puff) 19 times. In the next corner, work (2dc-CL, ch3, 2dc-CL).** Repeat from * to ** 3 times, skipping the final corner. sl st to join and fasten off. (76 hdc, 8 2dc-CL, 84 FPdc, 4 ch3 corners)

Assembly Instructions

  • Carefully weave in all yarn tails on the reverse side of the square using a tapestry needle to ensure a clean, professional finish.
  • Wet block your finished square by soaking it in lukewarm water with a bit of wool wash, then gently squeezing out the excess moisture without twisting.
  • Pin the damp square onto a blocking mat, stretching it carefully until it reaches the 12-inch by 12-inch dimensions specified in the pattern.
  • Allow the piece to air dry completely before removing the pins to set the intricate stitch definition and crisp corners.
  • If creating multiple squares for a larger project, use a mattress stitch or whip stitch to join them through the back loops for a seamless, textured look.

Important Notes

  • 💡Tension is key for this design; if your central flower feels too loose, your puff stitches may lose their rounded shape and look sloppy.
  • 💡Always double-check your stitch counts at the end of the squaring rounds (11-13) to prevent your edges from bowing or looking uneven.
  • 💡When working the post stitches, pull up your loops to the height of the current round to keep the fabric from bunching or puckering.
  • 💡The color changes are designed to highlight the floral layers, but feel free to carry yarn up the back if you prefer fewer ends to weave in.
  • 💡Using a matte yarn like the recommended cotton-acrylic blend helps the stitch definition pop more than a shiny or very fuzzy yarn would.

I hope you enjoy every single stitch of this Miosotis square as much as I did. There’s a real sense of pride that comes from finishing a piece with this much detail and texture! Once you’ve mastered the post stitches and those lovely puff rounds, you’ll have a versatile block that can be turned into anything from a chic bag to a full-sized heirloom afghan. Don't forget to take a moment to admire your work under good lighting—the shadows created by those raised stitches are just breathtaking. Happy crafting, and may your hook always find its way through the loops! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a lighter weight yarn for this square?

Yes, but using a DK or Sport weight yarn will result in a much smaller square, likely around 8-9 inches instead of the intended 12 inches.

Why does my square look more like a circle after Round 10?

Don't worry! The squaring-off doesn't happen until Round 11. It’s designed to be circular for the first half to create the floral motif before becoming a square.

Is this pattern suitable for someone who has never done post stitches?

It’s a great way to learn! Just take it slow and use the photos as a guide to see exactly where the hook should be inserted around the stitch post.

What is the best way to join these squares for a blanket?

I recommend a flat slip stitch join or a mattress stitch through the back loops to keep the focus on the heavy texture of the squares themselves.