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Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern

Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern
4.9★Rating
2-3 HoursTime Needed
1.9KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Quick Craft

Fits nicely into a free afternoon — 2 to 5 hours of focused, enjoyable crocheting.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern

Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This makes such a thoughtful handmade gift — surprising enough to get a genuine reaction, personal enough to feel special. It's the kind of thing that lives on someone's desk for years.

Why You'll Love This Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern

I'll be honest — I didn't expect to fall this hard for a squid. But something about working up those tentacles one by one, watching the whole creature come to life from a single magic ring, just got me. The moment I attached the eyes and embroidered that little smile, I was completely done for. I've made a few of these now and every single one gets the same reaction: people pick it up, squeeze it, and immediately ask if they can have it. The plush yarn is so satisfying to work with — it hides minor tension inconsistencies beautifully, which takes the pressure off. I genuinely look forward to the tentacle rounds every time.

Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I picked up this pattern on a whim during a week when I genuinely needed something fun to crochet — not complicated, not a commitment, just something that would make me happy to look at when it was done. A squid. Pink. With curly little tentacles. I was sold immediately.

What I didn't expect was how clever the construction is. The whole thing is essentially one continuous piece — head, body, and tentacles all flow from the same magic ring. That Round 11 where you skip stitches to create the fins? First time through, I stopped and stared at the instructions for a solid minute. Once I realized the skipped sections literally become the ear-like fins, I actually laughed out loud. Such a smart little trick built into what looks like a simple pattern.

The plush yarn is genuinely a joy to work with on this one. It's so forgiving — tension inconsistencies basically disappear into the fluffiness. If you've been nervous about amigurumi because you're worried about visible imperfections, this is a great project to start with. The fabric hides a lot and the chunkiness means you move through rounds quickly.

My biggest tip: before you start the tentacle section, physically count out and mark your 20 remaining front loops with little scraps of contrasting yarn. You have 10 tentacles to distribute across 20 stitches — one anchor stitch per tentacle, one stitch between each. Mapping it out first means you can just crochet without stopping to count every few minutes.

I made mine in the original pink but I've been thinking about a deep teal version, or even a gradient where the tentacles shift from coral to cream. The construction is simple enough that color play would be really rewarding here.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Round 11 is the trickiest part of this whole pattern — you're skipping 10 stitches twice to shape the fins, and it's easy to lose your place mid-round. Count out and mark your skip stitches with a contrasting thread before you begin that round.✗ When placing the safety eyes between rounds 19 and 20, it's tempting to eyeball the center, but if you're off by even one stitch the face looks lopsided. Flatten the body completely, find the true center point, and pin the eyes first before pressing the backings in.✗ The tentacle order matters — it goes 3 Type A, then 1 Type B, then 4 Type A, then 1 Type B, then 1 final Type A. Losing track of where you are in that sequence means your two curled tentacles end up clumped together rather than evenly spaced around the base.✗ When starting each tentacle, you sc into the front loop of R23 to anchor it, then immediately chain out. Crocheting into both loops by accident will make it nearly impossible to close the bottom of the body cleanly afterward using the back loops.✗ For Tentacle Type B, the slip stitch section at the end needs to run all the way back 24 stitches to the body — stopping short leaves the curled tip too loose and it won't hold its shape properly.✗ After finishing all tentacles, the back loops of R23 are used to work R24 decreases. Make sure you haven't accidentally used any of those back loops while making tentacles, or your decrease round won't have enough stitches and the bottom closure will pucker.

Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern

This little squid is going to steal your heart — and honestly, your shelf space too. Crocheted in one continuous piece with tentacles that curl and dangle in the most satisfying way, it comes together faster than you'd expect and looks incredible when it's done. The super bulky plush yarn gives it that irresistibly squishy texture you just want to squeeze. If you've been looking for a quick crochet project that actually has personality, this is it — something a little unexpected, a little quirky, and completely charming.

Intermediate 2-3 Hours

Materials Needed for Pink Squid Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Super bulky weight plush yarn in pink for the entire body and tentacles — approximately 100g. The original used Himalaya Dolphin Baby at 120m per 100g skein.
  • 02
    A small length of fine black cotton yarn for embroidering the eyelashes and smile — only a few meters needed.

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5 mm (US size H-7) crochet hook
  • 02
    Two 12 mm black safety amigurumi eyes
  • 03
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 04
    Large yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 05
    Small sharp needle for embroidering the face details
  • 06
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Head-Body :

Round 1 :

Start with a MR and work 4 Sc into it. (4)

Round 2 :

(Sc 1, Inc) x 2. (6)

Round 3 :

Inc in each of the 6 sts. (12)

Round 4 :

(Sc 1, Inc) x 6. (18)

Round 5 :

(Sc 2, Inc) x 6. (24)

Round 6 :

(Sc 7, Inc) x 3. (27)

Round 7 :

(Sc 8, Inc) x 3. (30)

Round 8 :

(Sc 4, Inc) x 6. (36)

Round 9 :

(Sc 11, Inc) x 3. (39)

Round 10 :

(Sc 12, Inc) x 3. (42)

Round 11 :

Sc 5, skip the next 10 sts, Sc 11, skip the next 10 sts, Sc 6. (22) — This round shapes the fins by skipping over sections of the previous round. See the diagram in the pattern for a visual guide to this step.

Round 12 :

Sc 5, Inc 1, Sc 10, Inc 1, Sc 5. (24)

Round 13 :

(Sc 3, Inc) x 6. (30)

Round 14 :

(Sc 4, Inc) x 6. (36)

Round 15 :

(Sc 5, Inc) x 6. (42)

Round 16 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 17 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 18 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 19 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 20 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 21 :

Sc around. (42)

Round 22 :

(Sc 5, Dec) x 6. (36)

Round 23 :

(Sc 2, Dec 8) x 2. (20) — After completing this round, flatten the body and locate the center. Position the two safety eyes between rounds 19 and 20, placing each one 3 stitches out from the center (6 stitches apart total), then press the backings firmly to secure.

Info :

Note: The tentacles are worked next using the FRONT LOOPS ONLY of Round 23. Do not fasten off. The back loops of Round 23 will be used later to close the bottom of the body.

— 2. Tentacles :

Info :

Working into the front loops of Round 23 only, you'll crochet a total of 10 tentacles: 8 of Type A and 2 of Type B. Work them in this order: Type A x 3, Type B x 1, Type A x 4, Type B x 1, Type A x 1. Each tentacle starts with an Sc into the next front-loop stitch of the body, then chains out for the tentacle length. After finishing each tentacle, Sc into the following body stitch to anchor it before beginning the next.

Tentacle Type A :

Sc into the next front loop of the body, then Ch 27. Starting from the 3rd chain from the hook, work (Inc HDC, HDC 3) x 5, then HDC 4, then Sc 1. Sc into the next body stitch to anchor the tentacle end. Sc into the stitch after that, then repeat from Ch 27 for the next Type A tentacle.

Tentacle Type B :

Sc into the next front loop of the body, then Ch 30. Starting from the 2nd chain from the hook: Sl St 5 (1). Turn to the opposite side of the chain: Sc 1, HDC 3, Sc 1, then work (Sc 1, Ch 1, Sc 1) all into the top stitch at the tip (2). Back along the opposite side: Sc 5 (3). Sl St 24 all the way back down to the body end of the tentacle. Sc into the next body stitch to finish. Then Sc into the following stitch and continue with the next Type A tentacle.

— 3. Closing the Body :

Info :

With all tentacles complete, set the body aside temporarily and use Sc to close any openings left on the head section. Fill the head firmly with stuffing and weave all loose yarn ends inside.

Round 24 :

Working into the BACK LOOPS ONLY of Round 23, work Dec 10 across the round. (10) — Stuff the body firmly before continuing.

Round 25 :

Working through both loops as normal: Dec 5, then Sl St. (5)

Info :

Fasten off, then stitch the remaining hole closed. Run the yarn tail through to the inside and trim.

— 4. Eyelashes and Smile :

Info :

Cut a length of fine black cotton yarn. Tie it snugly around one of the safety eyes with a secure knot. Using the yarn needle, embroider short eyelash strokes above the eye, then thread both ends down through the body and out beneath the tentacles. Tie the ends off in a knot and tuck them inside the body.

Info :

For the second eye, repeat the same eyelash embroidery — but this time leave the thread ends longer and do not hide them yet. Use the longer thread to embroider a V-shaped smile between the two eyes. Once the smile is formed, bring the thread across to the other side, tie a firm knot, and tuck all remaining ends inside the body.

Assembly Instructions

  • Once all 10 tentacles are crocheted from the front loops of Round 23, set the main piece flat and use Sc to close any gaps remaining on the head section at the top.
  • Fill the head cavity firmly with stuffing through the open top before sealing it shut — plush yarn compresses more than standard yarn, so pack it generously for a good shape.
  • Return to the bottom of the body and, using the back loops of Round 23 that were left unworked during the tentacle section, work Round 24 as 10 Dec across, pulling the opening in tightly.
  • Add a final round of stuffing into the body cavity at this stage so it's well filled, then complete Round 25 with 5 Dec and a Sl St to bring the stitch count down to a tiny opening.
  • Fasten off and sew the remaining hole shut with the yarn tail, then thread the end through to the inside of the body and trim.
  • Embroider the eyelashes with fine black cotton yarn knotted around each safety eye — tuck the thread ends for the first eye inside cleanly, but leave the thread from the second eye long.
  • Use the longer black thread from the second eye to stitch a V-shaped smile centered below the eyes, then secure with a knot on the far side and weave all remaining black yarn ends inside.

Important Notes

  • 💡Super bulky plush yarn can be surprisingly slippery and the stitches are not always easy to see — work in good lighting and consider counting your stitch count at the end of every increase round through Round 10 to catch any errors early.
  • 💡Round 11 is unlike any other round in this pattern. You are deliberately skipping 10 stitches twice to form the fin shapes on either side of the head. This is intentional — don't try to fill those skipped stitches back in.
  • 💡Keep the front loops of Round 23 completely untouched while making the tentacles. Those back loops are your only way to close the body cleanly afterward — if they get snagged or crocheted into accidentally, the bottom closure won't lie flat.
  • 💡The tentacle order is specific: 3 Type A, 1 Type B, 4 Type A, 1 Type B, 1 Type A. The two Type B tentacles should sit evenly spaced so they frame the front of the squid. Work slowly through this section and check placement as you go.
  • 💡When embroidering the eyelashes and smile, use a needle fine enough to pass cleanly through the plush fabric without splitting the yarn fibers — a sharp embroidery needle works much better than a blunt tapestry needle here.
  • 💡Stuff the body in two stages — once through the head before sealing the top, and again through the bottom opening before working Round 25. Doing it all at once at the end makes it hard to get an even, full shape.

There's something about a pink squid that just makes people smile — and now you've got one of your very own to show off. 🧶 Whether it ended up on your bookshelf, in someone's hands as a gift, or propped up next to your yarn stash (we see you), this little guy deserves all the love. Those curly tentacles, that tiny embroidered smile, those beady black eyes — honestly, what's not to love? If you made it your own with a different color or added some extra personality, I'd be so happy to hear about it. You put real time and care into this, and that makes every single stitch worth it. ✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn for this pattern — like regular worsted weight instead of plush?

You can, but the finished size will change noticeably. The original uses super bulky plush yarn with a 4.5 mm hook, which gives that squishy, dense texture. Dropping to worsted weight will produce a smaller, firmer squid — probably around 15–17 cm instead of 25 cm. You'd also be able to see the stitch definition more clearly, which can make Round 11 easier to follow but changes the overall look significantly.

Round 11 is really confusing me — what exactly am I supposed to do?

Round 11 is where the squid's side fins are shaped. You work 5 Sc normally, then deliberately skip the next 10 stitches (those unworked stitches become the fin), work 11 Sc across the front, skip another 10 stitches (second fin), then work 6 Sc to close the round. You end up with only 22 stitches — that's correct. The skipped stitch sections form little flaps at the sides. Looking at the diagram in the pattern before attempting this round makes a huge difference.

Do I need to attach the tentacles separately or are they crocheted directly onto the body?

They're worked directly onto the body — no sewing required. You crochet into the front loops of Round 23 to make each tentacle, one after another in the specified order. This is actually one of the most satisfying parts of the whole pattern because the tentacles just grow right out of the body as you go.

What size safety eyes should I use and can I swap them for embroidered eyes?

The pattern calls for 12 mm black safety eyes, which look proportionally right on a 25 cm finished squid. You can embroider eyes instead if the piece is for a very young child — use a few satin stitches in black yarn placed between rounds 19 and 20, spaced 6 stitches apart (3 stitches each side of center).

How do I stop the tentacles from unraveling at the tips?

At the end of each Type A tentacle, the final Sc anchors it back into the body, so the tip is secured by the chain structure itself. For Type B, the slip stitches along the length lock the curled shape in place. If a tip feels loose, just pass the yarn tail back through a few stitches at the end and trim close — the plush fibers grip yarn tails really well and they won't slip out.

Is this pattern suitable for selling finished items?

That depends on the license the original designer has set for their pattern. Generally speaking, many independent crochet designers do allow finished items to be sold from their patterns, but you should check the specific terms that came with your copy of this pattern. When in doubt, credit the designer.