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Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern

Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern
4.1★Rating
4-6 HoursTime Needed
1.9KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🐰

Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

About This Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern

Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

She makes the most thoughtful handmade gift for any fan — display her on a shelf, tuck her into a gift bag, or keep her all for yourself. Either way, she's a keeper.

Why You'll Love This Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it's one of those projects where every section feels like a little surprise. The hair cap with all its strands is unlike anything I've made before — it feels more like sculpting than crocheting, and when you glue those curls into place and see them frame her face, it's genuinely satisfying. The peplum and belt are tiny but they're what make her look finished and polished. I ended up making two of her.

Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I have a shelf full of amigurumi, and I'll be honest — most of them are animals. Bears, bunnies, the odd dinosaur. So when I picked up this pattern I wasn't sure how I'd feel about making a full doll with hair and a tiara and a layered dress. Turns out I was completely hooked from Round 1.

The section I was most nervous about was the hair. There are individual strands attached to a base cap, each one crocheted separately and then glued and arranged around the head. It sounds fiddly, and it is — but it's the most satisfying kind of fiddly. Working those strands loosely is genuinely important. My first attempt I crocheted them at normal tension and they stuck out like little planks. Ripped them back, went much looser, and the difference was night and day.

One thing I'd tell anyone attempting this: don't rush the assembly. The hair placement, the ear positioning, getting the tiara to sit just right — these take time and a lot of pins. I had this little doll pinned to a foam block like some kind of crafting crime scene while I figured out exactly where everything belonged. Totally worth it.

For a fun color variation, I've seen people make her in all-white with silver for the tiara — she looks stunning as an ice-queen version. You could also swap the lilac for deep purple and the mustard for gold to give her a richer, more dramatic look. The construction is exactly the same either way, so it's an easy way to make a second one feel completely different.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ When joining the arms at Round 21 of the body, it's very easy to place them too far forward or too far back — pin them to the sides first and look straight on before committing to any stitches.✗ The hair strands need to be worked with deliberately loose tension; if you crochet them at your normal gauge they'll come out stiff and won't drape or curl the way they should around the head.✗ Gluing the hair strands only down to the midpoint of the head is critical — going too far down flattens the ends and you lose the loose, flowing look entirely, so keep checking as you go.✗ The mustard belt is meant to sit very loosely around the waist with the pennant hanging below the peplum — if you chain exactly 15 and 14 without trying it on first, it may end up too tight, so always check the fit before fastening off.✗ When embroidering the eyelashes before inserting the safety eyes, it's easy to place the eyes too close together — the pattern specifies eight stitches apart between rounds 11 and 12, so count carefully before locking them in.✗ The tiara picots require tight stitches to hold their shape, but crafters used to working loosely tend to skip that note — if your picots look floppy, rip back and go down a hook size just for this piece.

Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern

This little princess is going to keep you company through every round, and honestly, you might not want to put her down once you start. She's got her flowing golden hair, her lilac and white gown, the tiny mustard belt with a dangling pennant — every detail is there waiting for you to bring it to life. If you've ever wanted a crochet project that feels like a love letter to a game you grew up with, this is the one. She finishes at about 14cm tall, which makes her the perfect desk companion or a gift that'll genuinely make someone gasp.

Intermediate 4-6 Hours

Materials Needed for Princess Zelda Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Cotton yarn in beige for the head, skin areas, and ears — enough for approximately 18 rounds of the head plus small ear pieces
  • 02
    Cotton yarn in white for the arms (partially), legs (partially), body, and skirt sections
  • 03
    Cotton yarn in brown for the shoe portion of the legs
  • 04
    Cotton yarn in lilac for the upper body and skirt color details
  • 05
    Cotton yarn in mauve for the pennant
  • 06
    Cotton yarn in mustard for the tiara, belt, and sleeves
  • 07
    Cotton yarn in light yellow for the hair cap and strands
  • 08
    Cotton yarn in turquoise for the tiara jewel
  • 09
    Cotton yarn in light blue for the pennant
  • 10
    Cotton yarn in light green for the pennant — all yarns should be compatible with a 3mm hook

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 03
    Two 9mm safety eyes
  • 04
    Black embroidery thread for the eyelashes
  • 05
    Embroidery needle
  • 06
    Tapestry needle for sewing pieces together
  • 07
    Stitch markers to track the beginning of each continuous round
  • 08
    Straight pins for positioning pieces before sewing
  • 09
    Two 2cm buttons
  • 10
    Craft glue for securing hair strands and the tiara jewel

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— 1. Arms (white and beige — make two) :

Info :

Begin with white yarn.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) repeated around. [9]

Round 3-4 :

Sc around. [9]

Round 5 :

(1 sc, dec) repeated around. [6]

Round 6 :

Sc around. [6]

Info :

Switch to beige yarn.

Round 7-8 :

Sc around. [6]

Round 9 :

Fold the arm flat and close the opening by working 2 sc across. Fasten off.

— 2. Legs (brown and white — make two) :

Info :

Begin with brown yarn.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]

Round 2 :

Inc in every stitch around. [12]

Round 3 :

(3 sc, inc) repeated around. [15]

Round 4 :

Sc around. [15]

Info :

Switch to white yarn.

Round 5-10 :

Sc around. [15] Fasten off after Round 10.

— 3. Body — Part 1 (white, beige, brown and lilac) :

Info :

Using white yarn, join both finished legs together with a slip stitch.

Round 11 :

Sc around both legs together. [30]

Round 12 :

6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 6 sc. [27]

Round 13 :

Sc around. [27] Stuff the legs at this point.

Round 14 :

6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc. [24]

Round 15 :

Sc in back loops only around. [24]

Round 16 :

Sc around. [24]

Info :

Switch to lilac yarn.

Round 17 :

5 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 5 sc. [21]

Round 18-19 :

Sc around. [21]

Round 20 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 3 sc. [18] Stuff the body. Pause here to make the skirt before continuing.

— 4. Skirt (white and lilac) :

Info :

Work into the front loops left unused from Round 15 of the body. Begin with white yarn.

Round 1 :

(2 hdc, inc) repeated around. [32]

Round 2 :

32 hdc around. [32]

Round 3 :

(3 hdc, inc) repeated around. [40]

Round 4-7 :

40 hdc around. [40]

Info :

Switch to lilac yarn.

Round 8 :

40 sc around. [40]

Info :

Switch to white yarn.

Round 9 :

40 sc around. [40] Fasten off.

— 5. Body — Part 2 (beige) :

Info :

This is the round where the arms are joined. Before starting, check that the arms will sit centered on either side of the body. If needed, adjust by beginning with 5 sc or 3 sc instead of 4.

Round 21 :

4 sc, then join the first arm with 2 sc, 7 sc, then join the second arm with 2 sc, 3 sc. [18] Fasten off and leave a long yarn tail for sewing.

— 6. Peplum (lilac) :

Info :

Chain 26 to begin.

Row 1 :

Slst 1, 1 hdc, 1 dc, (3 tr, tr-inc) x4, 3 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, slst 1. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Wrap the peplum around the doll's waist and sew it to the front.

— 7. Head (beige) :

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]

Round 2 :

Inc in every stitch around. [12]

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) repeated around. [18]

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) repeated around. [24]

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) repeated around. [30]

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) repeated around. [36]

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) repeated around. [42]

Round 8-14 :

Sc around. [42] Before starting Round 15, embroider the eyelashes and insert the 9mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12, eight stitches apart from each other.

Round 15 :

(5 sc, dec) repeated around. [36]

Round 16 :

(4 sc, dec) repeated around. [30]

Round 17 :

(3 sc, dec) repeated around. [24]

Round 18 :

(2 sc, dec) repeated around. [18] Fasten off and stuff the head. Pin it onto the body and sew in place.

— 8. Sleeves (mustard — make two) :

Info :

Each sleeve is a small triangular piece worked in a single row from a chain foundation.

Row 1 :

Ch 6, skip 1 chain, slst 1, 1 hdc, then work {1 hdc, ch 2, slst 1 (picot), 1 hdc} all into the next stitch, 1 hdc, slst 1, ch 5, skip 1, slst 1 (picot), ch 4. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Drape both sleeve triangles over the doll's shoulders. Sew the chain sections down and weave in all ends neatly.

— 9. Pennant (mauve, light blue, light green and mustard) :

Info :

Begin with mauve yarn. Chain 8, skip the first two chains, then work 2 sc.

Row 1 :

Switch to light blue: 3 sc. Switch to light green: work {2 sc, ch 2, slst 1 (picot), 2 sc} all into the same chain stitch. Continue back along the other side of the chain — switch to light blue: 3 sc. Switch to mauve: 2 sc, ch 2, slst 1 with the last stitch. Fasten off.

Info :

Belt (mustard): Ch 15, slst 1 into the right corner of the pennant, ch 3, slst 1 (picot), ch 1, slst 1 attaching the belt to the other corner of the pennant, ch 14. Try the belt around the waist — it should hang loosely with the pennant sitting below the peplum. Add more chains if needed. Fasten off and leave a long tail.

— 10. Hair (light yellow, white and beige) :

Info :

Work with deliberately loose tension throughout the hair cap and all strands to add volume and natural drape. Use light yellow yarn.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. [6]

Round 2 :

Inc in every stitch around. [12]

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) repeated around. [18] From this point, begin working the individual strands. Attach each strand to the hair base with a slst before starting the next one.

Strand 1-6 :

Ch 27, skip 1, 26 hdc.

Strand 7 :

Ch 23, skip 1, slst 12, 1 sc, 9 hdc.

Strand 8 :

Ch 27, skip 1, 26 hdc.

Strand 9 :

Ch 10, skip 1, slst 5, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc. Then on the base itself: 2 dc.

Strand 10 :

Ch 10, skip 1, slst 5, 1 sc, 2 hdc, 1 dc, slst 1 in the same stitch where this strand's chains began.

Strand 11 :

Ch 27, skip 1, 26 hdc.

Strand 12 :

Ch 23, skip 1, slst 12, 1 sc, 9 hdc.

Strand 13-18 :

Ch 27, skip 1, 26 hdc. Fasten off after the last strand.

Info :

Braids: Take a length of white yarn and wrap it around sections of both 23-chain strands. Use the tapestry needle to pass through a few stitches of each strand to anchor the wrapping securely. Fasten off.

— 11. Ears (beige — make two) :

Row 1 :

Ch 5, skip 1 chain. Slst 1, 1 sc, 1 hdc, slst 1. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

— 12. Tiara (mustard and turquoise) :

Info :

Work with tight tension throughout. The slip stitches form picots and are always worked into the second chain from the hook.

Picot Section 1 :

Ch 5, slst 1, (ch 3, slst 1) x3.

Center Section :

Ch 3, skip 2 chains, 2 hdc, ch 2, slst 1 in the same stitch as the 2 hdc.

Picot Section 2 :

Ch 2, slst 1, (ch 3, slst 1) x3, ch 2. Fasten off.

Info :

Jewel (turquoise): Ch 3, fasten off and tie both ends together to form a small knot. Attach this to the center of the tiara.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the stuffed and completed head onto the top of the body, centering it carefully and pinning before stitching so it sits straight.
  • Attach the peplum by wrapping it around the waist at the lilac color-change area and sewing it firmly to the front center.
  • Lay the hair cap wrong-side-up, pin the top and front center to the head, then glue the strands two at a time around the head, stopping at the midpoint — leave the lower ends loose and free.
  • Mark the ear position on Round 12 of the head, five stitches away from each safety eye. Attach the white-wrapped braids just in front of that mark, then sew the ears on Round 12 between the braid and the neighboring strand.
  • Curve the outermost 27-chain strand over the others and gently twist its tip; bend both 10-chain side strands outward and glue them curved at the sides of the face.
  • Place the tiara over the hair, pin it in position, sew the two ends together at the back, tuck in all tails, and fix the center jewel to the forehead with a small drop of craft glue.
  • Wrap the mustard belt loosely around the waist and tie it at the back; position the pennant so it hangs just below the peplum line, then tack the pennant to the skirt with a dot of craft glue to keep it in place.

Important Notes

  • 💡The entire doll body is worked in continuous rounds — never join with a slip stitch at the end of a round, and always place a stitch marker at the first stitch of each new round to keep your count accurate.
  • 💡Work the hair cap and all strands with noticeably looser tension than the rest of the doll — tighter stitches will make the strands rigid and they won't have the soft, flowing look that makes this hairstyle work.
  • 💡Embroider the eyelashes before locking the safety eyes in place — trying to stitch neatly around already-installed eyes is much harder and results in messier lines.
  • 💡When making the tiara, switch to tight tension deliberately — the opposite of the hair section — because loose picots will collapse and the crown won't hold its shape.
  • 💡The mustard belt must sit very loosely around the doll's waist. Try it on before fastening off and add extra chains if needed; a belt that's even slightly snug will pucker the skirt.
  • 💡Only apply glue to the hair strands down to roughly the halfway point of the head — gluing further down flattens the ends and ruins the loose princess-hair silhouette.
  • 💡Stuff the legs firmly before working Round 14, and the body before Round 20 — the decreases after each stuffing point close up quickly, so doing it in the right sequence saves a lot of frustration.

She might be 14cm tall, but she's got a whole lot of heart packed into every single stitch. 🧶 From her golden flowing hair and pointy little ears to that mustard tiara with the tiny turquoise jewel, every piece of this pattern is genuinely satisfying to make. You'll work through the body, build her gown from the skirt up, sculpt her hair cap with all its beautiful strands, and finish with the most adorable crown you've ever crocheted. Whether you're making her for yourself or gifting her to someone who'll immediately put her on their bookshelf — she's going to be loved. ✨ Happy making!

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FAQs

Is this pattern suitable for someone who's crocheted a few amigurumi before but never worked with hair strands?

Yes, it's a great next step. The body and head are worked in standard single crochet rounds, so those sections feel familiar. The hair is the trickiest part — you're attaching individual strands with slip stitches as you go, which is new for a lot of crafters, but the instructions walk you through each strand one at a time. Just remember to keep your tension deliberately loose on the hair section.

What yarn weight works best for this pattern and can I substitute cotton for acrylic?

The pattern is designed for cotton yarn used with a 3mm hook — cotton gives you that firm, defined stitch definition that keeps amigurumi looking crisp and holds the hair strands in their shape. Acrylic will work but tends to be stretchier, which can make the body a little looser and the hair strands less defined. If you go acrylic, try dropping to a 2.5mm hook to compensate.

My stitch count on Round 21 of the body — where the arms are joined — doesn't feel right. Is there flexibility there?

Yes, the pattern actually notes this directly. If the arms don't land centered on the sides when you start with 4 sc, adjust by beginning with 3 sc or 5 sc instead. The total stitch count stays the same at 18 — you're just shifting where the round begins so the arms sit correctly on either side.

How do I stop the hair strands from flopping out of position after I've glued them?

The key is to only glue the strands down to about halfway down the head and let the rest hang loose — pressing them all the way down is what makes them flop. Work two strands at a time, hold them in place until the glue sets a little, and then move on. Pins help a lot while you wait. The braided side strands get glued curved rather than straight down, which locks the whole style into place.

The finished doll is 14cm — can I make her larger?

You can scale her up by switching to a heavier yarn (DK or worsted) and a matching larger hook. Going from a 3mm to a 4mm hook with DK weight would add roughly 30–40% to the finished size, making her closer to 19–20cm. Keep in mind the hair and accessory pieces will also need proportional adjustments, and you'll need larger safety eyes — 12mm would suit a scaled-up version better than 9mm.