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Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern

Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern
4.7★Rating
5-7 HoursTime Needed
3.7KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

About This Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern

Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This makes a showstopping Halloween or autumn gift — handmade enough to feel special, wearable enough to actually get used, and quirky enough that whoever receives it will genuinely love it.

Why You'll Love This Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern

I love this pattern because it taught me something I didn't expect — that working ribbing perpendicular to a base cap is so much more satisfying than it sounds. That moment when the pumpkin shape starts emerging from all those rows? Genuinely exciting. I've made a few of these now in different orange shades and each one has its own personality. It's the kind of project I pick up in October and can't put down.

Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern step 1 Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern step 2 Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern step 3 Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

I've made a lot of seasonal crochet projects over the years, but this pumpkin hat holds a special place for me because it was the first pattern that made me truly understand perpendicular ribbing. Before this, ribbing always meant working back and forth on the same piece — but here, you're building a whole separate ribbed fabric that wraps and attaches around a base cap as it grows. That first time I finished all 48 rows and saw the pumpkin shape appear? I actually said 'oh!' out loud.

My biggest tip for this one is to spend a few minutes with the ribbing foundation before you commit. Chain your 16 stitches, hold them up against your finished base cap, and make sure they genuinely span the full height. It sounds fussy, but five seconds of checking saves a lot of frustration later.

I've made this in two different orange yarns now and the difference is real. The smooth, plied yarn gives clean, defined ribs. The blanket-style yarn makes the ribs look almost pillow-like and very pumpkin-patch. Both are gorgeous — it just depends on whether you want crisp or cozy.

The stem is the easiest part of the whole pattern and honestly one of my favorite bits. Three rounds of a simple tube, one quick increase round, and then two little vine chains that curl back on themselves when you're done. It takes maybe ten minutes and it completely makes the hat.

If you're making this as a gift, size is rarely an issue since the pattern fits most teen and adult heads — but I'd still encourage gifting it with a note that it can be adjusted at Rounds 9–18 for depth if needed. Little details like that show real thought.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Forgetting to work Row 19 in front loops only — this is the turning round that makes the ribbing attach correctly, and skipping the FLO instruction here will mess up how the outer ribbing sits against the base cap.✗ Making the foundation chain for the ribbing too short or too long — hold it against your actual base cap before continuing, because if the chain doesn't reach from the last round up to the magic circle, your ribbing won't cover the hat properly.✗ Overstuffing the hat before checking the fit — stuff gradually and try it on between handfuls, because once it's packed too tight the hat sits too high and loses that soft pumpkin shape.✗ Missing the joined HDC stitch at the end of each ribbing row — this is what anchors each ribbing row to the base cap, and if you skip it or do it in the wrong stitch you'll notice gaps or puckering in the ribbing after a few rows.✗ Getting confused between the two different Row 48 join techniques and the regular ribbing rows — mark your very first foundation chain loops with a contrast yarn before you start the ribbing so you can find them easily when you get to the closing row.✗ Skipping the running stitch gather on the ribbing edges before stuffing — those raw edges won't close on their own, and if you stuff without gathering first you'll end up with an uneven, floppy top that won't hold the stem in place.

Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern

This pumpkin hat is one of those projects that just makes people stop and stare — in the best way. You'll end up with a squishy, stuffed hat that looks like a real pumpkin sitting on your head, complete with a little green stem and curly vine tendrils. The ribbed outer texture is what really sells it, and once you figure out the rhythm of those ribbing rows, it's honestly kind of addictive. If you love making things that are equal parts functional and ridiculous (the good kind), this one's for you. It fits teen and adult heads and works up in a weekend.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Pumpkin Plush Hat Crochet Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Super bulky weight (category 6) yarn in a pumpkin orange shade for the hat base and outer ribbing — approximately 1.5 to 2 skeins at around 106 yards per skein
  • 02
    Super bulky weight (category 6) yarn in a deep green (kale) shade for the stem and vine tendrils — only 2 to 3 yards needed

— Tools Required

  • 01
    10mm crochet hook
  • 02
    4 to 5 handfuls of polyester fiber fill stuffing
  • 03
    Large yarn needle (plastic or metal) for seaming and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Stitch marker
  • 05
    Scissors

Progress Tracker

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— 1. Hat Base Cap :

Info :

Color: Pumpkin orange. Work in continuous rounds. The increases are intentionally staggered across rounds to create a circular shape rather than a hexagonal one. You can add or remove an increase round to adjust sizing — just keep your final stitch count a multiple of 6. You can also add or remove plain rounds to adjust the depth of the hat. The stitch counts below reflect the standard version of the pattern.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic circle and work 6 SC into it. Pull the circle closed. (6)

Round 2 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC INC in every stitch around — that's 6 increases total. (12)

Round 3 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. *SC in the next stitch, SC INC in the following stitch.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times around. (18)

Round 4 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC INC in the first stitch, then SC in the next 2 stitches. *SC INC in the next stitch, SC in the following 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (24)

Round 5 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in the next 2 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch. *SC in the next 3 stitches, SC INC in the following stitch.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (30)

Round 6 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC INC in the first stitch, SC in the next 4 stitches. *SC INC in the next stitch, SC in the following 4 stitches.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (36)

Round 7 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in the next 4 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch. *SC in the following 5 stitches, SC INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (42)

Round 8 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC INC in the first stitch, SC in the next 6 stitches. *SC INC in the next stitch, SC in the following 6 stitches.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. (48)

Round 9 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 10 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 11 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 12 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 13 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 14 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 15 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 16 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 17 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 18 :

Place a stitch marker in the first stitch. SC in each of the next 47 stitches. (48)

Round 19 :

Working into FRONT LOOPS ONLY throughout this entire round: place a stitch marker in the first stitch, then SC FLO into each of the next 47 stitches. (48) — This is the turning round where the outer ribbing will attach.

— 2. Hat Outer Ribbing :

Info :

Color: Pumpkin orange. These rows run perpendicular to the base cap rounds and create the pumpkin ribbing texture. The ribbing rows attach to the base cap as you go — one stitch per row joins into the next stitch of the base cap round. The foundation chain of 16 should reach roughly the full height of the base cap when held flat against it. Feel free to adjust the chain length, but keep the count even. All stitch counts below are based on a chain of 16.

Row Foundation :

SS into the first stitch of Round 19. CH 16 — check that this chain lays flush against the base cap and spans its full height from the last round up to the magic circle center. CH 1 and turn.

Info :

Row 1 is worked twice with slightly different join instructions: the very first time you work Row 1, the final stitch joins to the same stitch you chained from (the first stitch of the round). Every subsequent time you work Row 1 (as part of the repeat), the final stitch joins BLO to the next stitch in the round instead.

Row 1 :

SS in the next 3 stitches, SC in the next 3 stitches, HDC INC in the next stitch. *HDC in the next stitch, HDC INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times until 1 stitch remains. For the very first Row 1 only: join the last stitch together with the stitch you originally chained from by working a joined HDC (yarn over, insert hook into last stitch, insert hook into the chain-from stitch, yarn over, pull through both stitches, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops). For all repeated Row 1s: join the last stitch BLO together with the next stitch in the base cap round (yarn over, insert hook into last stitch BLO, insert hook into next base cap stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops). (21)

Row 2 :

SS into the next stitch in the base cap round. Turn. HDC BLO in the next 15 stitches (skipping the SS). SC BLO in the next 3 stitches. SS BLO in the next 3 stitches. CH 1 and turn. (21, not counting chain)

Row 3 :

SS BLO in the next 3 stitches. SC BLO in the next 3 stitches. HDC BLO in the next 14 stitches. Join the last stitch BLO to the next base cap stitch: yarn over, insert hook into last stitch BLO, insert hook into the next base cap stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. (21)

Row 4 :

SS into the next stitch in the base cap round. Turn. HDC BLO in the next 15 stitches (skipping the SS). SC BLO in the next 3 stitches. SS BLO in the next 3 stitches. CH 1 and turn. (21, not counting chain)

Row 5 :

SS BLO in the next 3 stitches. SC BLO in the next 3 stitches. HDC BLO in the next 14 stitches. Join the last stitch BLO to the next base cap stitch: yarn over, insert hook into last stitch BLO, insert hook into the next base cap stitch, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. (21)

Row 6 :

SS into the next stitch in the base cap round. Turn. HDC BLO in the first stitch (skipping SS). HDC DEC using the next 2 stitches. *HDC BLO in the next stitch, HDC DEC using the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. SC BLO in the next 3 stitches. SS BLO in the next 3 stitches. CH 1 and turn. HDC DEC method: yarn over, insert hook into back loop of first stitch, insert hook into back loop of second stitch, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. (16, not counting chain)

Info :

Rows 7–42: Repeat Rows 1–6 six more times (6 full repeats).

Info :

Rows 43–47: Work Rows 1–5 one final time.

Row 48 :

This is the last row — it decreases and also closes the ribbing by joining to the leftover loops of the very first foundation chain. SS into the next stitch in the base cap round. Turn. *HDC BLO the first stitch in the current row together with the first unused loop of the original foundation chain (yarn over, insert hook into back loop of current stitch, insert hook into the unused foundation chain loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops). HDC DEC using the next 2 stitches and the next unused foundation chain loop together (yarn over, insert hook into back loop of current stitch, insert hook into back loop of next current stitch, insert hook into next unused chain loop, yarn over, pull through 3 loops, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops).* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. SC BLO the next 3 stitches together with the next 3 unused chain loops. SS BLO the next 3 stitches together with the final 3 unused chain loops. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for gathering and sewing.

— 3. Stuffing & Closing :

Info :

Thread the long yarn tail onto your yarn needle before beginning.

Step 1 :

Using a running stitch, sew through the outermost loops along the raw edges of the ribbing rows, working all the way around until you return to your starting point.

Step 2 :

Begin stuffing the interior of the hat in small handfuls. Try the hat on periodically to check the shape — the base cap should remain concave so it sits comfortably on your head. Keep adjusting the stuffing as you go and avoid packing it too tightly.

Step 3 :

Once you're happy with the stuffing level, pull the running stitch yarn to gather the ribbing edges together. Check that the overall pumpkin shape looks right before committing.

Step 4 :

Align the gathered edges with the very top of the hat's base cap and sew them securely in place so the shape stays put. Tie off the yarn and weave in the ends.

— 4. Stem :

Info :

Color: Kale (dark green). The stem is worked in continuous rounds.

Round 1 :

Start with a magic circle and work 6 SC into it. Pull closed. (6)

Round 2 :

Place a stitch marker. SC in each of the next 5 stitches. (6)

Round 3 :

Place a stitch marker. SC in each of the next 5 stitches. (6)

Round 4 :

Place a stitch marker. SC in each of the next 5 stitches. (6)

Round 5 :

Place a stitch marker. SC in the first stitch, SC INC in the next stitch. *SC in the next stitch, SC INC in the following stitch.* Repeat from * to * 1 more time. (9)

Info :

Note: The PDF labels the next round as 'Round 5' again, which appears to be a numbering error in the source. This is treated as Round 6. Verify placement before continuing.

Round 6 :

Place a stitch marker. *SC INC in the next stitch, SC in the following stitch.* Repeat from * to * 4 more times around. (13)

Vine Tendril 1 :

SS into the first stitch in the round. CH 21. Turn. SS down 20 stitches back along the chain. SS into the next stitch in the round. SS across to the other side of the round.

Vine Tendril 2 :

CH 21. Turn. SS down 20 stitches back along the chain. SS into the next stitch in the round. SS back around to the beginning of the round. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to sew the stem to the hat top and weave in ends.

— 5. Finish :

Step 1 :

Using your yarn needle, sew the stem securely onto the very top of the hat. Tie off and weave the yarn tail into the inside of the hat.

Step 2 :

Find the loose yarn tail from where you tightened the magic circle on the stem, and weave it securely into the interior of the hat as well.

Assembly Instructions

  • After completing the base cap through Round 19, immediately begin the ribbing foundation without cutting yarn — SS into the first stitch of Round 19 and chain 16 to start.
  • Work the 48 ribbing rows, joining one end of each row into the next stitch of the base cap as you go — this wraps the ribbing around the entire hat and uses up all 48 stitches of the base cap round.
  • Once all 48 rows are complete, thread the long fastened-off tail onto your yarn needle and work a running stitch through the free outer edges of the ribbing rows all the way around.
  • Stuff the hat from the open base in small handfuls, trying it on regularly to maintain the concave inner shape — gather the running stitch gently to check the pumpkin silhouette as you go.
  • Once the shape is right, pull the running stitch tight to close the gathered top, align it flush with the peak of the base cap, and sew it down firmly so it holds its shape.
  • Make the stem separately and fasten off with a generous tail, then sew it centered onto the very top of the gathered ribbing using the yarn needle, stitching through several times for security.
  • Weave all remaining yarn tails — including the magic circle tail on the stem — into the interior of the hat so nothing is visible from outside.

Important Notes

  • 💡Round 19 of the base cap is worked entirely in front loops — this is intentional and essential, as the unused back loops from this round are what the ribbing attaches to as you work.
  • 💡The foundation chain for the ribbing should physically span the height of your base cap when held against it — before starting Row 1, lay the chain flat on the cap and adjust if needed. An even number is required.
  • 💡Each set of 6 ribbing rows forms one full pumpkin rib — Rows 1 and 6 are the increase and decrease rows that give the rib its rounded shape, while Rows 2–5 are the flat body. Keep track of which row you're on.
  • 💡Don't skip the try-on step during stuffing — the hat needs to be shaped while the stuffing is being added. Once the ribbing is fully closed and sewn, you can't go back in to adjust.
  • 💡The HDC DEC used in this pattern is worked through back loops only and spans two stitches — make sure you're reading the full how-to for this decrease, as it differs from a standard HDC decrease.
  • 💡The stem only needs 2–3 yards of green yarn — cut it before you start so you're not unraveling a whole skein.
  • 💡Using a slightly denser or textured super bulky yarn (like a blanket yarn) will make the pumpkin ribs stand out more visibly, as mentioned in the pattern notes.

There's something genuinely magical about watching a flat crocheted cap transform into a round, squishy pumpkin hat — and the moment you put it on for the first time, stuffed and stemmed and silly in the best way, you'll totally get it. 🎃 This pattern is a little technical in the ribbing section but nothing you can't handle, and every tricky row has a clear payoff. Whether you make it for yourself, a friend, or just because autumn deserves a project this fun, I hope you love every stitch of it. Happy making! 🧶✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn for this pumpkin hat?

Yes — the pattern calls for any super bulky (category 6) yarn, so you have room to experiment. A textured blanket yarn will actually make the pumpkin ribbing stand out more than a smooth yarn, which is a great effect if that's the look you want. Just stick to the same weight category to keep the sizing consistent.

How do I know if the hat will fit my head?

The pattern is sized for a head circumference between 22 and 24 inches, which covers most teens and adults. You can also adjust the fit by adding or removing increase rounds (keep the count a multiple of 6) or by adding/removing plain rounds to change the depth. The pattern notes mention both adjustments explicitly.

The ribbing rows are confusing me — how do I keep track of where I am?

A row counter is really helpful here since you're working 48 rows total. Each full pumpkin rib is 6 rows, so you can also mark every 6th row with a contrast yarn snippet. Row 1 increases, Row 6 decreases, and Rows 2–5 are plain — once you feel that rhythm, it clicks pretty quickly.

What does 'join the last stitch to the next base cap stitch' mean in the ribbing rows?

This is the step that connects each ribbing row to the base cap as you go. You're essentially working a combined HDC stitch that grabs both the last stitch of your ribbing row AND the next unused stitch on the base cap — the full how-to is written out in Row 1's instructions. It pulls the ribbing snug against the cap so it doesn't gap.

How much stuffing is the right amount for the hat?

The pattern suggests 4–5 handfuls of polyester fiber fill, but the real guide is to try the hat on as you stuff. You want it full enough to hold the pumpkin shape, but not so packed that it's uncomfortable or sits too high on your head. Stuff gradually and shape as you go — you can always add more but it's harder to take out once it's gathered.

There seem to be two rounds both labeled Round 5 in the stem section — which is correct?

That's a numbering error in the original pattern. The first Round 5 increases from 6 to 9 stitches, and the second — which should be Round 6 — increases from 9 to 13 stitches. Work both increase rounds in order, just know that the second one is effectively Round 6.