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Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern

Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern
4.5β˜…Rating
5-8 HoursTime Needed
3.8KMade This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crocheting experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

✨

Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern

Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This top is a total wardrobe staple that looks amazing with high-waisted linen trousers or your favorite denim shorts. It's the perfect thoughtful gift for a fashion-forward friend or a treat for your own summer closet.

Why You'll Love This Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern

I'm completely obsessed with the texture of this stitch combo! It’s so meditative once you find your flow. Plus, watching that racerback shape emerge from a simple rectangle of ribbing is incredibly satisfyingβ€”it's one of those projects that looks way more complicated than it actually is to make.

Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern step 1 Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern step 2 Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern step 3 Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

There's something so incredibly satisfying about vertical ribbing, isn't there? I remember the first time I tried this hdc and yoslst combo; I was absolutely amazed at how much it looks like a high-end knit piece from a boutique. For this Version B of the Roza, I really wanted to capture that sporty yet feminine racerback vibe that's so popular right now.

When I was making my first sample, I found that using a high-quality cotton makes all the difference in the world. It gives the top a crispness that holds the shape of the racerback perfectly. If you're caught between sizes, I usually recommend sizing down for a snugger 'hug' or sizing up if you prefer a bit more breathability for those hot July days.

One little trick I've learned: when you're doing the strap chains, make sure you don't twist them when you join to the front! It sounds simple, but we've all been there, right? I like to run my thumb along the chain to keep it flat before making that joining stitch. I truly think you're going to love wearing this. It's one of those pieces that makes you feel so proud when someone asks, 'Where did you get that?' and you get to say, 'I actually made it!'

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Mixing up your loops is a common slip-up; remember that hdc always goes into the blo, while yoslst must stay in the flo to keep that ribbing looking crisp.βœ— It's easy to lose track of which side is which, so always ensure your increases and decreases happen on the same edge to keep the bottom of your top perfectly straight.βœ— Forgetting the turning ch 1 can make your edges pull tight and look uneven, so even if you're in a groove, don't skip that little lift at the end of the row.βœ— Straps can stretch over time with cotton yarn, so I highly recommend pinning them and trying the top on before you do the final fastening to ensure the fit is snug.

Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern

You're going to love how this top hugs your curves! The Roza Version B features a super trendy racerback that's just perfect for those sun-drenched summer days or for layering under your favorite cardigan. It uses a gorgeous ribbed texture that looks exactly like high-end knitwear but is 100% crochet. I've made sure the instructions are warm and clear so you can really get into the rhythm of the stitches without any stress.

Intermediate 5-8 Hours

Materials Needed for Roza Ribbed Racerback Crop Top Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Fingering weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (approximately 100g for XS/S, 150g for M/L, 200g for XL/2XL, 250g for 3XL/4XL, and 300g for 5XL)
  • 02
    Suggested yarns include Rainbow 8/4 Cotton or Mandarin Medi for the best stitch definition

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.00 mm crochet hook (adjust as needed to match gauge)
  • 02
    Measuring tape
  • 03
    Sharp scissors
  • 04
    Tapestry needle for weaving in those ends
  • 05
    Blocking board or a clean towel with pins
  • 06
    Optional 5mm wide elastic band for a secure bottom hem
  • 07
    Sewing needle and matching thread
  • 08
    4 stitch markers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” 1. The Body :

Info :

The number of chains determines the total length. Follow the count for your size: XS(41), S(45), M(49), L(53), XL(57), 2XL(61), 3XL(65), 4XL(69), 5XL(73).

Row 1 :

Beginning in the 2nd and 3rd ch from your hook, work 1 hdc decrease. In the following two ch, work another 1 hdc decrease. Place 1 hdc in each ch left in the row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 2 :

Work yoslst into the flo of every st until you have 4 sts remaining. Work 1 yoslst decrease over the next two sts, then another 1 yoslst decrease over the final two sts. ch 1 and turn.

Row 3 :

Work 1 hdc decrease in the blo of the first two sts, then another 1 hdc decrease in the blo of the next two. Place 1 hdc into the blo of every remaining st. ch 1 and turn.

Row 4 - Range :

For sizes S through 5XL, repeat the actions from Row 2 and 3 until you reach the row count for your specific size: S(4), M(5), L(6), XL(7), 2XL(8), 3XL(9), 4XL(10), 5XL(11). ch 1 and turn after every row.

Row 4/12 - Range :

Continue the pattern by alternating hdc in blo and yoslst in flo, but now decrease by only one st on every row. Apply this to rows (4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12) through (6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22) depending on size. ch 1 and turn.

Row 7/23 - Range :

Maintain the alternating stitch pattern across rows (7,9,11,13,15,17,19,21,23) through (11,14,17,20,23,26,29,32,35) without any increases or decreases. ch 1 and turn.

Row 12/36 - Range :

Continue alternating stitches across rows (12,15,18,21,24,27,30,33,36) through (26,30,35,42,46,51,56,61,66), but add one increase on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 27/67 - Range :

Across rows (27,31,36,43,47,52,57,62,67) through (40,48,56,64,72,80,88,96,104), increase by two sts on every row while keeping the stitch pattern. ch 1 and turn.

Row 41/105 - Range :

For rows (41,49,57,65,73,81,89,97,105) through (42,50,58,66,74,82,90,98,106), work one row of hdc and one row of yoslst with no shaping. ch 1 and turn.

Row 43/107 - Range :

For rows (43,51,59,67,75,83,91,99,107) through (48,58,68,76,87,97,106,116,126), decrease by one st on every single row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 49/127 - Range :

Work rows (49,59,69,77,88,98,107,117,127) through (52,62,72,82,93,103,114,124,134) without any shaping. This marks the halfway point of your top. ch 1 and turn.

Row 53/135 - Range :

For rows (53,63,73,83,94,104,115,125,135) through (58,70,82,92,106,118,130,142,154), increase by one st on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 59/155 - Range :

Work rows (59,71,83,93,107,119,131,143,155) through (60,72,84,94,108,120,132,144,156) with no increases or decreases. ch 1 and turn.

Row 61/157 - Range :

For rows (61,73,85,95,109,121,133,145,157) through (74,90,105,116,134,149,164,179,194), decrease by two sts on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 75/195 - Range :

Across rows (75,91,106,117,135,150,165,180,195) through (89,106,123,138,157,174,191,208,225), decrease by one st on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 90/226 - Range :

Work rows (90,107,124,139,158,175,192,209,226) through (94,112,130,146,166,184,202,220,238) without any shaping. ch 1 and turn.

Row 95/239 - Range :

For rows (95,113,131,147,167,185,203,221,239) through (97,116,135,152,173,192,211,230,249), increase by one st on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 98/250 - Range :

Across rows (98,117,136,153,174,193,212,231,250) through (99,119,139,159,179,199,219,239,259), increase by two sts on every row. ch 1 and turn.

Row 100/260 :

Work rows (100,120,140,160,180,200,220,240,260) with no increases or decreases. Do not fasten off yet.

β€” 2. Blocking :

Info :

Keep your last loop secure and soak the top in lukewarm water for about 20 minutes. Gently press out the water, then pin it to the size chart measurements on a blocking board until fully dry.

β€” 3. Seaming :

Info :

Fold the piece in half with the 'ribbed' right sides touching. Insert your hook through the first loop of both edges and slst them together. Continue this all the way down to the bottom edge.

β€” 4. Bottom Edge :

Info :

Turn the top right-side out. For a simple edge, work 1 sc into every row around the bottom, then slst to join and fasten off.

Elastic Option :

Work 1 sc for every yoslst row and 2 sc for every hdc row. slst to join. Crochet several more rounds of sc until the band is twice the width of your elastic. Sew the elastic ends together, fold the crochet edge over the band, and use a tapestry needle to hem it shut.

β€” 5. Edges and Straps :

Step 1 :

With the back facing you, join yarn at the right side of the center. Work sc along the edge, placing 2 sc for hdc rows and 1 sc for yoslst rows, until you reach the middle seam.

Step 2 :

ch to create your first strap (around 80 ch is a good start for size S). Connect to the front marker with a sc and check the fit.

Step 3 :

Continue working toward the armpit until you return to your starting point. slst to the first sc.

Step 4 :

ch 2 (does not count as st). Work 1 hdc into every st around, including the strap chains. slst to join.

Step 5 :

ch 1 and turn. Work 1 yoslst into the flo of every st. slst to join.

Step 6 :

ch 2 and turn. Work 1 hdc into the blo of every st. slst to join.

Step 7 :

Repeat the yoslst round from Step 5, then fasten off.

Step 8 :

Repeat the process for the second armhole, but connect the final 15 ch of the new strap to the first strap using slst to create the racerback connection.

Step 9 :

Continue sc around the remaining edge back to the armpit and slst to join.

Step 10 :

Repeat the finishing rounds (Steps 4-7) for this second side.

β€” 6. Front Edge :

Step 1 :

Join yarn at the top right corner near the strap. ch 1, pull the loop through the first st of the strap to anchor it.

Step 2 :

sc across the front neckline. At the end, slst to the strap on the opposite side, ch 1, and turn.

Step 3 :

slst into the next strap st, then work yoslst across the previous row. slst to the strap, ch 2, and turn.

Step 4 :

slst into the next strap st, work hdc in the blo across, slst to the strap, ch 1, and turn.

Step 5 :

Work a final row of yoslst across, anchoring to the straps at each end. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Assembly Instructions

  • Before you start sewing, block your flat piece to the measurements in the size chart; this ensures the ribbing sits perfectly straight.
  • Fold the top so the ribbed 'right side' is on the inside and use slip stitches to join the back edges together into a tube.
  • Turn the top right-side out and work a round of single crochet along the bottom edge to tidy it up.
  • If you want extra security, fold the bottom edge over an elastic band and sew it in place with a simple hemming stitch.
  • Attach your yarn to the back edge and work sc around the armhole, being careful to place 2 sc for every hdc row and 1 sc for every yoslst row.
  • Create your straps by chaining from the back to the front markers, ensuring you try it on for a perfect fit before finishing.
  • Finish by adding the front neckline detail, crocheting back and forth while slip-stitching into the sides of the straps for a seamless look.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘The ch 1 at the end of each row is just a turning chain and should never be counted as an actual stitch.
  • πŸ’‘If you're looking for a longer fit, simply add more chains to your starting row to increase the 'B' and 'C' measurements.
  • πŸ’‘Cotton yarn has very little natural stretch, so blocking is the most important step for getting that professional finish.
  • πŸ’‘Try to keep your yarn over slip stitches slightly loose; if they're too tight, it will be difficult to work the hdc row that follows.
  • πŸ’‘Use your stitch markers religiously to mark the front points where your straps will eventually attach.

I truly can't wait to see your version of the Roza top! Whether you choose a classic creamy white or a vibrant summer hue, this piece is going to look absolutely stunning. Take your time with the shaping rows, and don't be afraid to try it on as you go to get that custom-tailored feel. There’s nothing quite like the pride of wearing a garment you crafted with your own two hands. Happy making, and I hope you enjoy your new favorite summer staple! 🧢✨

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FAQs

Can I use a different yarn weight for this pattern?

You can, but keep in mind this was designed for fingering weight. If you use a thicker yarn like worsted, the top will turn out significantly larger and the ribbing will look much chunkier.

How do I make the top longer so it's not a crop?

The length is determined by your very first chain. To make it longer, just add more chains to your starting rowβ€”each extra chain adds a little more length to the body.

My edges are looking a bit wavy, is that normal?

This usually happens if you're accidentally adding or skipping stitches at the ends of rows. Make sure you aren't crocheting into the turning chain and count your stitches every few rows!

Is the elastic band really necessary?

Not at all! The elastic is totally optional. It's great if you want a very secure fit for a busy day, but a simple single crochet edge looks and feels lovely on its own.