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Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
4.7β˜…Rating
10-12 HoursTime Needed
4.0KMade This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10-12 hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

πŸ₯

Charming Critter

Delightful animal designs with sweet details that capture the essence of your favorite woodland and farmyard friends.

About This Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view

This magnificent dragon makes an unforgettable heirloom gift for fantasy lovers or a show-stopping centerpiece for your own handmade collection.

Why You'll Love This Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely fell in love with designing the poseable wire wings on this little guyβ€”it completely changes how you can display him! There is something so satisfying about seeing his sweet face come together, especially when you add the custom painted eyes. It's a true labor of love that will make you feel incredibly proud of your crochet skills.

Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 1 Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 2 Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 3 Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern step 4

Switch Things Up

When I first sat down to design this dragon, I knew I wanted to create something truly special that captured his playful, cat-like personality. Crocheting with wire can feel a little intimidating if you've never tried it before, but I promise it's a complete game-changer! It gives the wings such a gorgeous, dramatic structure and lets you pose him in the cutest ways.

For my dragon, I decided to go with a deep charcoal gray instead of a stark black because it really helps all those beautiful stitch details and the spine textures pop. If you want to add a little extra magic, try sewing some tiny black or dark blue iridescent seed beads along his back and headβ€”they catch the light beautifully and look just like night-sky scales!

Take your time with the face detailing. Angling the eyelids even a millimeter can change his expression from sweet and curious to fierce and protective. Play around with the placement using sewing pins before you commit to sewing or gluing anything down. Enjoy every stitch of this journey!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— If you don't secure the wire ends of the wings with strong insulating tape, they can poke through your stitches over time and ruin the fabric.βœ— Putting the plastic joints or cotter pins in the wrong rounds of the body (Round 10 for hind legs, Round 28 for forelegs) will make your dragon sit awkwardly or look unbalanced.βœ— Failing to align the heel marker on the hind legs back to the center will cause the feet to point inward or outward instead of facing forward naturally.βœ— Stuffing the neck too firmly makes it very difficult to sew the head on neatly and can cause the wire frame to warp or bend out of shape.

Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

Bring the magic of the night sky into your hands with this absolutely stunning Toothless dragon! If you've been dreaming of crafting your very own loyal, big-eyed companion, this project is going to capture your heart. From his beautifully textured wings to those expressive, hand-painted eyes, every single stitch feels like bringing a beloved character to life. Get your hooks ready for an immersive and deeply rewarding creative adventure!

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Toothless the Dragon Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight cotton-acrylic blend yarn (such as Yarn Art Baby Cotton) in dark gray (approx. 100g) and a tiny amount of black
  • 02
    Lace weight mercerized cotton yarn (such as Alpina Lena) in bright yellow for the vibrant eyes
  • 03
    Contrasting scrap yarn for marking joint placements

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hooks in sizes 2.0 mm and 1.25 mm
  • 02
    Premium polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 03
    0.9 mm craft wire (two 23cm pieces, four 19cm pieces, and two 13cm pieces for the wings)
  • 04
    1.6 mm sturdy craft wire (one 45cm piece for the main body and tail support)
  • 05
    Two 25 mm plastic safety joints (or cotter pin disks) for the hind legs
  • 06
    Two 15 mm plastic safety joints (or cotter pin disks) for the forelegs
  • 07
    Four T-shaped cotter pins (20x2 mm) if choosing cotter pin joints
  • 08
    Black and white fabric paint for detailing the eyes
  • 09
    Black dry pastel or eyeshadow for shading and adding depth
  • 10
    Fine seed beads and strong nylon thread or fishing line to sew them on
  • 11
    Hot glue gun, round-nose pliers, sewing pins, scissors, and a blunt tapestry needle

Progress Tracker

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β€” 1. Head :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, make 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 inc around the ring (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Crochet 1 sc, then 1 inc, followed by (2 sc, inc) repeated 5 times, and finish with 1 sc (24)

Round 5 :

Repeat (3 sc, inc) 6 times (30)

Round 6 :

Crochet 2 sc, then 1 inc, followed by (4 sc, inc) repeated 5 times, and finish with 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

Repeat (5 sc, inc) 6 times (42)

Round 8 :

Crochet 3 sc, then 1 inc, followed by (6 sc, inc) repeated 5 times, and finish with 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

Repeat (7 sc, inc) 6 times (54)

Round 10 :

Crochet 4 sc, then 1 inc, followed by (8 sc, inc) repeated 5 times, and finish with 4 sc (60)

Round 11 :

Repeat (9 sc, inc) 6 times (66)

Round 12 :

Work 66 sc evenly around (66)

Round 13 :

Crochet 5 sc, then 1 inc, followed by (10 sc, inc) repeated 5 times, and finish with 5 sc (72)

Round 14-21 :

Work 72 sc around for each of these 8 rounds (72)

Round 22 :

Crochet 18 sc, then work 36 sc in BLO, and finish with 18 sc (72)

Round 23 :

Crochet 5 sc, then 1 dec, followed by (10 sc, dec) repeated 5 times, and finish with 5 sc (66)

Round 24 :

Repeat (9 sc, dec) 6 times (60)

Round 25 :

Crochet 4 sc, then 1 dec, followed by (8 sc, dec) repeated 5 times, and finish with 4 sc (54)

Round 26 :

Repeat (7 sc, dec) 6 times (48)

Round 27 :

Crochet 2 sc, 1 dec, then repeat (4 sc, dec) 7 times, and finish by making ch3 (32)

Round 28 :

Skip 2 stitches before your stitch marker and 2 stitches after it. Next, crochet 1 sc, 1 dec, repeat (3 sc, dec) 6 times, work 3 sc, then crochet 1 sc directly onto the chain (32)

Round 29 :

Work 2 sc along the chain, then 1 dec, and repeat (2 sc, dec) 7 times (24)

Round 30 :

Repeat (2 sc, dec) 6 times (18)

Round 31 :

Repeat (1 sc, dec) 6 times (12)

Round 32 :

Work 6 dec to close (6)

Info :

Snip your yarn and fasten off, then pull the opening tight to close. We will use the opening created in rounds 27-28 to run the wire support from the body up into the head.

Info :

Attach dark gray yarn to the first unworked front loop from round 21, keeping the opening facing away from you, and work: 17 sc, 2 hdcinc, 17 sc. Cut the yarn, fasten off, and weave in all loose ends inside the head.

β€” 2. Eyes (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using yellow lace weight yarn and your 1.25 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 inc around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Repeat (inc, 2 sc) 6 times (24)

Round 5 :

Work 3 sc, 2 hdcinc, then 2 sc (this is a partial round to shape the eye)

Info :

Cut the yarn and fasten off, leaving a tail. Bring all tails to the front. We will attach the eyes to the head with the wrong side facing out, as it has a smoother, less textured look.

Info :

On the textured wrong side of each eye, paint a large black pupil and small white light glares using textile paint. Note that the hdcinc stitches from round 5 should end up in the top inner corners of the eyes when positioned.

β€” 3. Eyelids (make 2) :

Row 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, ch9. Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: sl st, 6 sc, sl st. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing.

β€” 4. Ears (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Repeat (1 sc, inc) 3 times (9)

Round 3 :

Work 4 sc, 1 inc, then 4 sc (10)

Round 4 :

Work 4 sc, 1 inc, then 5 sc (11)

Round 5 :

Work 5 sc, 1 inc, then 5 sc (12)

Round 6 :

Repeat (inc, 5 sc) 2 times (14)

Round 7-8 :

Work 14 sc around for these 2 rounds (14)

Round 9 :

Work 6 sc, 1 dec, then 6 sc (13)

Round 10 :

Work 5 sc, 1 dec, then 6 sc (12)

Info :

Flatten the ear and crochet through both layers at once with 6 sc to close the bottom. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for assembly.

β€” 5. Spines 1 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 sc around (6)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Pin these small spines to the head.

β€” 6. Spines 2 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Repeat (2 sc, inc) 2 times (8)

Round 3 :

Work 8 sc around (8)

Info :

Flatten the spine and crochet through both layers with 4 sc to close. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

β€” 7. Spines 3 (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 sc around (6)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, dec) 2 times (4)

Info :

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Pin these to the head.

β€” 8. Hind Legs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, ch8. Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 6 sc, 4 sc in the last chain. Turning to work along the opposite side of the chain, work: 5 sc, inc (17)

Round 2 :

Work 1 inc, 5 sc, 4 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc (24)

Round 3 :

Crochet 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, repeat (1 hdc, hdcinc) 4 times, work 5 sc, then repeat (1 sc, inc) 2 times (31)

Round 4 :

Work 9 sc, then repeat (one 3-dc Bobble st in black yarn, 2 sc in dark gray yarn) 4 times, and finish with 9 sc (31)

Info :

Shift your stitch marker. It needs to run straight up the back center of the heel, aligned with the foundation chain. Adjust this alignment by working extra shift stitches as you go.

Round 5 :

Work 31 sc around (31)

Round 6 :

Repeat (4 sc, dec) 2 times, work 7 sc, then repeat (dec, 4 sc) 2 times (27)

Round 7 :

Work 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, then 6 sc (24)

Round 8 :

Work 6 sc, 6 dec, then 6 sc (18)

Round 9-13 :

Work 18 sc around for each of these 5 rounds (18)

Info :

Gradually fill the leg with fiberfill. Stuff the lower foot section firmly, but keep the upper leg section stuffed very lightly.

Round 14 :

Repeat (5 sc, inc) 3 times (21)

Round 15-16 :

Work 21 sc around for these 2 rounds (21)

β€” 9. Left Hind Leg Finishing :

Info :

Choose whether you are using plastic safety joints or cotter pins. Follow the corresponding steps below.

Round 17 β€” Joint Option :

Work 13 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, then work 6 sc (21)

Round 18 β€” Joint Option :

Work 13 sc, then work 2 sc directly onto the chain, and finish with 6 sc (21)

Round 19 β€” Joint Option :

Work 21 sc around (21)

Round 17-19 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 21 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (21)

β€” 10. Right Hind Leg Finishing :

Info :

Choose whether you are using plastic safety joints or cotter pins. Follow the corresponding steps below.

Round 17 β€” Joint Option :

Work 6 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, then work 13 sc (21)

Round 18 β€” Joint Option :

Work 6 sc, then work 2 sc directly onto the chain, and finish with 13 sc (21)

Round 19 β€” Joint Option :

Work 21 sc around (21)

Round 17-19 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 21 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (21)

β€” 11. Hind Legs Final Shaping :

Info :

If using cotter pins, count 2 rounds down from the marker and away from it (7 sc to the left for the right leg, or 7 sc to the right for the left leg). Insert the disc and cotter pin here. Continue stuffing the upper leg lightly.

Round 20 :

Repeat (5 sc, dec) 3 times (18)

Round 21 :

Repeat (1 sc, dec) 6 times (12)

Round 22 :

Work 6 dec to close (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, pull the opening closed tightly, and hide the yarn tail inside the leg.

β€” 12. Forelegs (make 2) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 6 sc into a MR (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 inc around (12)

Round 3 :

Repeat (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18)

Round 4 :

Work 5 sc, then repeat (one 3-dc Bobble st in black, 2 sc in dark gray) 3 times, and finish with 4 sc (18)

Round 5-7 :

Work 18 sc around for these 3 rounds (18)

Round 8 :

Work 8 sc, 1 dec, then 8 sc (17)

Round 9 :

Work 17 sc around (17)

Round 10 :

Work 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, then 5 sc (15)

Round 11 :

Work 15 sc around (15)

Round 12 :

Work 6 sc, 1 dec, then 7 sc (14)

Round 13 :

Work 6 sc, 2 inc, then 6 sc (16)

Round 14 :

Work 1 dec, 12 sc, then 1 dec (14)

Round 15 :

Work 6 sc, 2 inc, then 6 sc (16)

Round 16 :

Work 1 dec, 12 sc, then 1 dec (14)

Info :

Gradually stuff the lower part of the leg firmly, and the upper part lightly.

β€” 13. Left Foreleg Finishing :

Info :

Follow the steps below depending on your choice of jointing method.

Round 17 β€” Joint Option :

Work 6 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, then work 3 sc (16)

Round 18 β€” Joint Option :

Work 1 dec, 9 sc, 2 sc on the chain, 1 sc, then 1 dec (14)

Round 17 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 6 sc, 2 inc, then 6 sc (16)

Round 18 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 1 dec, 12 sc, then 1 dec (14)

β€” 14. Right Foreleg Finishing :

Info :

Follow the steps below depending on your choice of jointing method.

Round 17 β€” Joint Option :

Work 3 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, 1 sc, 2 inc, then 6 sc (16)

Round 18 β€” Joint Option :

Work 1 dec, 1 sc, 2 sc on the chain, 9 sc, then 1 dec (14)

Round 17 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 6 sc, 2 inc, then 6 sc (16)

Round 18 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 1 dec, 12 sc, then 1 dec (14)

β€” 15. Forelegs Final Shaping :

Info :

If using cotter pins, count 1 round down from the marker and away from it (4 sc to the left for the right leg, or 4 sc to the right for the left leg along round 17). Insert the 15 mm disc and cotter pin. Continue stuffing lightly.

Round 19 :

Repeat (5 sc, dec) 2 times (12)

Round 20 :

Work 6 dec to close (6)

Info :

Cut the yarn, pull the opening closed tightly, and hide the tail inside the leg.

β€” 16. Wings (make 2) :

Info :

We will use dark gray yarn, a 2.0 mm hook, and three different lengths of 0.9 mm wire (23cm, 19cm, and 13cm). Bend the tip of each wire safely. We will crochet in rows, working over the wire when specified. Always turn your work at the end of each row.

Row 1 :

Ch28. Working over the 23cm wire starting from the bend, crochet: 27 sc (27), turn. (Do not work over this wire in the following rows)

Row 2 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 8 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec (22), turn

Row 3 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 11 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (18), turn

Row 4 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 16 sc (16), turn

Row 5 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 13 sc (13), turn

Row 6 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 12 sc (12), turn

Row 7 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc (9), turn

Row 8 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 8 sc (8), turn

Row 9 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 4 sc (4), turn

Row 10 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 3 sc (3), then ch3 and turn

Info :

Now prepare a 19cm wire, starting from its bent end.

Row 11 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 3 sc, work 1 sc into the corner, 3 sc along the previous row's stitches, 1 sc into the corner, 2 sc along the previous row's stitches, 1 sc into the corner, 2 sc along the previous row's stitches, 1 sc into the corner, and 2 sc along the previous row's stitches (18), turn

Row 12 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 15 sc, 1 dec (16), turn

Row 13 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 7 sc (7), turn

Row 14 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 6 sc (6), turn

Row 15 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 5 sc, 1 sc into the corner, then 4 sc along the stitches of the previous row (10), turn

Row 16 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc (9), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 17 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc, 1 sc into the corner, then 3 sc along the previous row's stitches (13), turn (note that 1 stitch of the previous row remains unworked)

Row 18 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 12 sc (12), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 19 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc (9), turn

Row 20 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 8 sc (8), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 21 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 5 sc (5), turn

Row 22 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 3 sc, 1 inc (5), then ch3 and turn

Info :

Prepare the second 19cm wire piece, starting from its bent end.

Row 23 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 5 sc, work 1 sc into the corner, 3 sc along the previous row's stitches, 1 sc into the corner, 3 sc along the previous row's stitches, 1 sc into the corner, 1 sc along the previous row's stitch, and 2 sc into the corners of the previous rows (19), turn

Row 24 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 18 sc (18), turn

Row 25 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 17 sc (17), turn

Row 26 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 16 sc (16), turn

Row 27 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 14 sc (14), turn

Row 28 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 13 sc (13), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 29 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 11 sc (11), turn

Row 30 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc, 1 inc (11), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 31 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 9 sc (9), turn

Row 32 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 7 sc, 1 inc (9), then ch3 and turn

Info :

Prepare the final 13cm wire piece, starting from its bent end.

Row 33 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 8 sc (8), turn

Row 34 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 4 sc (4), turn

Row 35 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 3 sc (3), turn

Row 36 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 2 sc, 1 sc into the corner, then 4 sc along the stitches of the previous row (7), turn

Row 37 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 4 sc, 1 dec (5), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 38 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 5 sc (5), then work 1 t-ch and turn

Row 39 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 5 sc (5)

Info :

Cut your yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Carefully bend the wire frame along the top edge of each wing. Create a clean border by attaching dark gray yarn to the exit point of the first wire and crocheting sc along the top edge of the wing.

β€” 17. Tail :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 4 sc into a MR (4)

Round 2-4 :

Work 4 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (4)

Round 5 :

Repeat (1 sc, inc) 2 times (6)

Round 6-8 :

Work 6 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (6)

Round 9 :

Repeat (2 sc, inc) 2 times (8)

Round 10-11 :

Work 8 sc around for each of these 2 rounds (8)

Round 12 :

Repeat (3 sc, inc) 2 times (10)

Round 13 :

Work 10 sc around (10)

Round 14 :

Work 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, then 2 sc (12)

Round 15 :

Work 12 sc around (12)

Round 16 :

Repeat (5 sc, inc) 2 times (14)

Round 17 :

Work 14 sc around (14)

Round 18 :

Work 3 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, then 3 sc (16)

Round 19 :

Work 16 sc around (16)

Round 20 :

Repeat (7 sc, inc) 2 times (18)

Round 21-22 :

Work 18 sc around for each of these 2 rounds (18)

Round 23 :

Work 4 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, then 4 sc (20)

Round 24-26 :

Work 20 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (20)

Round 27 :

Repeat (9 sc, inc) 2 times (22)

Round 28-30 :

Work 22 sc around for each of these 3 rounds (22)

Round 31 :

Work 5 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, then 5 sc (24)

Round 32-33 :

Work 24 sc around for each of these 2 rounds (24)

Round 34 :

Repeat (11 sc, inc) 2 times (26)

Round 35-36 :

Work 26 sc around for each of these 2 rounds (26)

Round 37 :

Work 6 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, then 6 sc (28)

Round 38 :

Work 28 sc around (28)

Round 39 :

Repeat (13 sc, inc) 2 times (30)

Info :

Do not cut the yarn! We will continue directly into the body. Prepare your main wire frame using a 45cm piece of 1.6 mm wire. Bend one end smoothly, insert it into the tail, and stuff the tail with fiberfill.

β€” 18. Body :

Round 1 :

Continuing from the tail, work: 11 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 4 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, then 11 sc (36)

Round 2 :

Work 6 sc, 1 inc, 22 sc, 1 inc, then 6 sc (38)

Round 3 :

Work 14 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, then 14 sc (40)

Round 4 :

Work 10 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, then 10 sc (42)

Round 5 :

Work 3 sc, 1 inc, then repeat (6 sc, inc) 5 times, and finish with 3 sc (48)

Round 6 :

Work 48 sc around (48)

Round 7 :

Repeat (7 sc, inc) 6 times (54)

Round 8-9 :

Work 54 sc around for each of these 2 rounds (54)

β€” 19. Body β€” Hind Leg Connection :

Info :

In round 10, we will create openings for the hind leg joints or mark their positions.

Round 10 β€” Joint Option :

Work 13 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, work 24 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, then work 13 sc (54)

Round 11 β€” Joint Option :

Work 13 sc, then work 2 sc directly onto the chain, work 24 sc, work 2 sc directly onto the chain, and finish with 13 sc (54)

Round 10 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 54 sc around. Use contrasting scrap yarn to mark the spaces between stitches 14-15 and stitches 40-41 (54)

Round 11 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 54 sc around (54)

Round 12-16 :

Work 54 sc around for each of these 5 rounds (54)

Round 17 :

Work 8 sc, 1 dec, repeat (16 sc, dec) 2 times, and finish with 8 sc (51)

Round 18 :

Work 20 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, then 20 sc (49)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins or plastic joints of the prepared hind legs into the body openings or marked points, and secure them firmly inside.

Round 19 :

Work 49 sc around (49)

Round 20 :

Work 20 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, then 20 sc (47)

Round 21 :

Work 47 sc around (47)

Round 22 :

Work 21 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, then 21 sc (45)

Round 23 :

Repeat (13 sc, dec) 3 times (42)

Round 24 :

Work 42 sc around (42)

Round 25 :

Work 6 sc, 1 dec, repeat (12 sc, dec) 2 times, and finish with 6 sc (39)

Round 26 :

Work 39 sc around (39)

Round 27 :

Repeat (11 sc, dec) 3 times (36)

β€” 20. Body β€” Wing & Foreleg Connection :

Info :

In round 28, we will create the openings for the wings and forelegs.

Round 28 β€” Joint Option :

Work 3 sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, 4 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, 16 sc, ch2, skip 2 stitches, 4 sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, then 3 sc. (Ch1 is for the wing frame, Ch2 is for the plastic joints) (36)

Round 29 β€” Joint Option :

Work 3 sc, 1 sc on the chain, 4 sc, 2 sc on the chain, 16 sc, 2 sc on the chain, 4 sc, 1 sc on the chain, then 3 sc (36)

Round 28 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 3 sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, 28 sc, ch1, skip 1 stitch, then 3 sc. Mark the spaces between stitches 9-10 and stitches 27-28 with contrasting thread (36)

Round 29 β€” Cotter Pin Option :

Work 3 sc, 1 sc on the chain, 28 sc, 1 sc on the chain, then 3 sc (36)

Round 30 :

Work 8 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, then 8 sc (34)

Round 31 :

Work 34 sc around (34)

Round 32 :

Repeat (15 sc, dec) 2 times (32)

Round 33 :

Work 32 sc around (32)

Info :

Insert the cotter pins or plastic joints of the prepared forelegs into the body openings or marked points, and secure them firmly inside.

Round 34 :

Work 7 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, then 7 sc (30)

Info :

Insert the wing wire frames into the wing holes made in round 28. Connect them to the main body wire frame and wrap the connection securely with insulating tape. Sew the wings neatly to the back. Continue stuffing the body with fiberfill.

Round 35 :

Work 4 sc, 1 dec, repeat (8 sc, dec) 2 times, and finish with 4 sc (27)

Round 36 :

Repeat (7 sc, dec) 3 times (24)

Round 37 :

Work 24 sc around (24)

Info :

Do not stuff the neck too firmly. Cut the yarn, leaving a very long tail for assembly. Run the body wire frame up into the head through the opening at rounds 27-28, then sew the head securely to the body.

β€” 21. Tail Fin (make 2) :

Info :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, ch13. We will work in rows, using BLO for all stitches. Always turn your work.

Row 1 :

Work 12 sc, then ch3 and turn (12)

Row 2 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 11 sc (13), turn

Row 3 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 12 sc, then ch3 and turn (12)

Row 4 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 11 sc (13), turn

Row 5 :

Starting in the second stitch from your hook, work: 12 sc, then ch3 and turn (12)

Row 6 :

Starting in the second chain from your hook, work: 2 sc, then 11 sc (13)

Info :

Cut your yarn, leaving a long tail. Sew the tail fins securely to the tip of the tail.

β€” 22. Spines (make 16) :

Round 1 :

Using dark gray yarn and your 2.0 mm hook, work 4 sc into a MR (4)

Info :

Pull the ring closed tightly. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew these spines along the tail, body, and head. If desired, sew fine seed beads between the spines using nylon thread or fishing line.

β€” 23. Shading & Finishing :

Info :

Use black dry pastel or dark eyeshadow to shade the wings and tail fins, highlighting the texture and adding depth.

Assembly Instructions

  • Secure the yellow eyes onto the face, aligning them with the center hdcinc stitches from the head edging, then sew them down wrong-side-out.
  • Sew the eyelids directly above the eyes, angling them slightly to give your dragon his signature curious or determined expression.
  • Attach the ears to the top of the head, pinning them symmetrically before sewing them securely through the flattened base.
  • Pin and sew the three different sizes of head spines (Spines 1, 2, and 3) symmetrically behind the ears and down the back of the head.
  • Mount the hind legs and forelegs to the body using your plastic joints or cotter pins at Round 10 and Round 28, securing them tightly before stuffing.
  • Position the two tail fins at the very tip of the tail, sewing them flat against each other to form the classic Night Fury tail shape.
  • Arrange the 16 tiny spines in a neat line running from the back of the head, down the spine of the body, and all the way to the tip of the tail, then sew them down.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Always use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds, and work extra shift stitches when needed to keep the marker aligned down the back center.
  • πŸ’‘Make sure to wrap all wire connections tightly with insulating tape to prevent the wire ends from poking through your crochet fabric.
  • πŸ’‘When painting the eyes, let the black pupil dry completely before adding the white glare details to avoid the colors bleeding together.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the lower parts of the legs firmly to give them a nice shape, but keep the tops lightly stuffed so they can sit flush against the body.
  • πŸ’‘Use a fine beading needle and strong, clear nylon thread or fishing line to sew on the decorative seed beads so they stay secure and the stitches remain invisible.

I hope you absolutely love making your own little Toothless! There is something so incredibly magical about seeing this sweet dragon come together stitch by stitch. Once you finish assembling him and add those final shaded touches to his wings, he'll be ready for all kinds of adventures (or just a cozy spot on your favorite shelf). Don't forget to share your finished creation with our crafting communityβ€”I can't wait to see your beautiful dragons! Happy crocheting, my friends! 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

Do I have to use a wire frame for this dragon?

While you can make him without a wire frame, the wire is what allows his wings and tail to be fully poseable. Without it, the wings will droop and the tail will be floppy rather than holding its iconic shape.

Can I use safety eyes instead of crocheting and painting them?

Absolutely! If you prefer not to paint, you can use 25mm colored safety eyes or cut the eye shapes out of colored felt and glue them in place for a clean, vibrant look.

Which jointing method is better: plastic joints or cotter pins?

Plastic joints are much easier to install and hold up incredibly well for toys that will be handled. Cotter pins offer a more traditional, super-secure joint but require pliers and a bit more hand strength to bend into place.

How do I apply the dry pastel shading without making a mess?

Use a soft, dry makeup brush or Q-tip to pick up a small amount of shaved pastel dust. Gently tap off the excess, then build up the color slowly on the wings and tail fins. Work in light layers to avoid smudging.

Can I make this dragon using bulky blanket yarn?

Yes! You can upscale him using super bulky yarn and a larger hook (like 5mm or 6mm). Just keep in mind you will need much larger safety joints (around 40-45mm) and thicker wire to support the extra weight.